Yesterday I checked my air filter and found that a mouse had started chewing it. No gaping hole, but getting there. I realized that the factory air box is nothing more than a nice "mouse motel" and decided that it was time for a BHAF as they are covered with steel mesh and not so easy to eat through.I did a search and didn't find too much regarding how to mount this thing so I thought of making a steel bracket from 1.5" x 10" steel strap 1/16" thick, [see last photo]. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the air filter and put a bolt with a large flat washer through from the inside and bolted the bracket to it using thread locker and two nuts so the bolt couldn't come loose (and go through the turbo). The bolt fits the hole very tight so I don't have to worry if it did happen to come loose. As you can see I used some RTV silicone to cover the nuts and prevent corrosion. I then drilled a 11/16" hole for the air filter monitor and installed it. I attached it to the fender with a exhisting 13mm fender bolt. I made that side of the bracket with slot instead of a hole, so that when I want to remove the air filter all I have to do is loosen the 13mm bolt and the pipe clamp on the other end, and lift it out.The filter sits about 3/4" below the hood, and has several inches of clearance under and around it. I did think of making a heat sheild, however, after talking to Mopar1973man decided not to. Mike says that they aren't necessary so I thought I would try it this way without one.The filter is a NAPA #6637 and was about $62 total.Any input pro or con is welcome. Always trying to build a better mouse trap (pardon the pun).Bob

Yesterday I checked my air filter and found that a mouse had started chewing it. No gaping hole, but getting there. I realized that the factory air box is nothing more than a nice "mouse motel" and decided that it was time for a BHAF as they are covered with steel mesh and not so easy to eat through. I did a search and didn't find too much regarding how to mount this thing so I thought of making a steel bracket from 1.5" x 10" steel strap 1/16" thick, [see last photo]. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the air filter and put a bolt with a large flat washer through from the inside and bolted the bracket to it using thread locker and two nuts so the bolt couldn't come loose (and go through the turbo). The bolt fits the hole very tight so I don't have to worry if it did happen to come loose. As you can see I used some RTV silicone to cover the nuts and prevent corrosion. I then drilled a 11/16" hole for the air filter monitor and installed it. I attached it to the fender with a exhisting 13mm fender bolt. I made that side of the bracket with slot instead of a hole, so that when I want to remove the air filter all I have to do is loosen the 13mm bolt and the pipe clamp on the other end, and lift it out. The filter sits about 3/4" below the hood, and has several inches of clearance under and around it. I did think of making a heat sheild, however, after talking to Mopar1973man decided not to. Mike says that they aren't necessary so I thought I would try it this way without one. The filter is a NAPA #6637 and was about $62 total. Any input pro or con is welcome. Always trying to build a better mouse trap (pardon the pun). Bob

Looks very nice, I strapped mine as well. I also used the Outer Wear cover. It's been on 1.5 yr only thing I do is wash the cover every other oil change the filter looks the same as when I took it out of the box. You/ll love the better air flow of the bigger filter.

Theres also a battery missing on that 12 valve I dont think you could ever get a large filter to bolt up without jamming it in the altenator maybe a smaller one like in the picture but I bet that small of a filter will probably be pretty close in cfm to a stock unit

Notice it isn't in a 2gen? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Notice it isn't in a 2gen? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Just bien a smart ____

As opposed to...?? LolSent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Hmmm... LOL!