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Diys?

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Okay can anyone tell me any cheap or free diys I cab do to my truck it is a 2004.5 2500 automatic. I already have the foglight highbeam mod. Anything else similliar I can do?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while not driving

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Not totally free but a great mod is the mod to the factory air box to get more cold air into it in the summer time. There are several names for it from hardware store mod or the company PSM cold air intake in my signature that makes a prefabbed kit.If its free I would like to know how to get the fogs to stay on with the high beams. I know there are kits to do this but how did you get it done for free?

Could you fill out your sig and profile so we know what you got for a vehicle... :shrug:

It says in his post he has an 04.5.:lmao2:
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04.5 2500 home made 6 inch intake straight pipe glowshift gauges edge CTS monitor smarty TNT bag of parts tc lockup switch and all I bought for the high and fogs was a relay wire and terminalsSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while not driving

Ah Ha, I now see the words "FREE" and "CHEAP".:lmao::cool: Guess I need more coffee also didn't see the word cheap the first time I read it.

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Lol I'm on a tight budget. So anyone?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while not driving

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Okay. Thanks I was hoping for maybe a high idle/3cyl modSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while not driving

Free or low cost (less than $100) Mods for an '04.5.......1. Fuel Tank Vent Mod..........makes filling your fuel tank much quicker and much more accurately.2. Stock Air Box Mod..........already mentioned above.3. Tone Wheel Mod............advances the static timing of the truck. Gives more "low end" oomf. May improve mileage.4. Ditch Factory Muffler........replace with straight pipe. With the kitty still on, won't be stupid loud. Back pressure.That's about all I can think of now. However, I will tell you this; if your truck still has the OEM lift pump on the back of the fuel filter housing, I'd replace that FIRST with a quality/proven system before I would do any of the free and cheap mods I listed. Those free and cheap mods ain't worth ____ if your LP dies and leaves you stranded!!!:smart: If you're on a budget, you don't want to have to get a tow.

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    Be careful with a tone ring mod and Smarty timing, it would be easy to have too much timing with that setup.

    A 6" isn't the best exhaust size for anything but sound, so if your looking for the best power/economy you may want to go back to 4" for less than about 700 rwhp.. unless you did it for sound.

    --- Update to the previous post...

    http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1986-Home-Deopt-CAI-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight=

    Be careful with a tone ring mod and Smarty timing, it would be easy to have too much timing with that setup.

    That's why I run the default settings on my Smarty Revo....................SW5 mainly...............it doesn't advance the timing. My tone wheel is advanced all the way to the bolt holes. It's a couple of teeth on the wheel. I don't know how many degrees of advance that gives me, but when I did try the advanced timing with the Smarty+Tone Wheel Mod, I got some timing rattle. I didn't run it long enough to warm the truck up to see if it was only a cold engine thing; I changed back to stock timing right away.

    Why would you use a static advance when you have a Smarty with dynamic advance?Timing is one of the best things about the Smarty.

    Why would you use a static advance when you have a Smarty with dynamic advance? Timing is one of the best things about the Smarty.

    Because I did the "tone wheel mod" long before I ever got the Smarty. Just never rotated the tone wheel back. Also, because it (my truck) ain't broke the way it is, and I don't want to "fix" it until it is!!!!!:lmao: JFYI, the way the tone wheel is made, there is some "slop" in it when you slide if onto the bolts even though it's keyed with a small pin on the end of the crank. So there is some variance (truck to truck) in timing even on trucks right off the assembly line. The way you advance the timing via the tone wheel, is to pull it off the truck, and file out the pin hole so that you essentially increase the "slop" in it when you reinstall it. When you go to tighten the bolts back down, you just need to make sure that is stays in the advanced position. As I said above, I filed the pin hole out so that hits the bolt holes of the wheel now when rotated all the way.

    Yeah I have heard that, which is probably why there is such a smoke/mileage variance on stock trucks.

    Smoke/ Mileage diff. uhhh I am all ears now, you got my attention. What's this tone wheel mod.? I totally do not understand that one.Mileage on my 05 s---'s big, 15 in town and 16 hwy and smokes like it has a tuner when you put your foot in it.My 11k 01 gets 16 :lmao:

    Smoke/ Mileage diff. uhhh I am all ears now, you got my attention. What's this tone wheel mod.? I totally do not understand that one. Mileage on my 05 s---'s big, 15 in town and 16 hwy and smokes like it has a tuner when you put your foot in it. My 11k 01 gets 16 :lmao:

    I've been banned by the sites where this info would be. They're Cummins Forum and Diesel Truck Resource. Do a search at those sites with these words.........tone, wheel, rokkteck, sensor, timing..........those should get you in the ball park. These threads are pretty old though. I'm not a 'puter guy, and I don't know if those threads are still available to see?????? Help Mike!!! You can achieve essentially the same timing advancement with the Smartys also, and you don't get your hands dirty. To do the tone wheel mod, you have to pull of the dampner first. The tone wheel is directly behind it and is held with the same 4 bolts. Not a lot a room under there.........but it can be done.

    Whenever I replace my OEM damper with a fluidampner I am going to inspect my OEM sensor and see where in the movement it fits. I may move it full fwd (without drilling) and see if it does anything.

    Whenever I replace my OEM damper with a fluidampner I am going to inspect my OEM sensor and see where in the movement it fits. I may move it full fwd (without drilling) and see if it does anything.

    As I said prior, the OEM tone wheel without modification, has slop in it, even though it's "pinned" to "index" it. I'm gonna guess the total movement of mine; from most advanced to most retarded, measuring on the outer side of the tone wheel, would be about 1/16". You fine out the indexing hole to give you more slop to advance the static timing. The Rokktech sensor did the same, but folks found out the sensor only could give you X amount of advance. Like I did with mine, I filed out the indexing hole until the tone wheel touched the bolts. IIRC, someone guestimated that was about 4-5 degrees of advancement based the on the 360 degree circle geometry.
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