I added dye to the a/c late summer last year, and can not keep this thing charged. I am in process of changing out the evaporator. I checked out the evaporator with a uv light, and did not see anything light up on the evaporator. I followed all the lines as best I could, and can not find anything blaring out. The engine block does look like it has a haze on it from the a/c dye, but can not be sure. Has anyone ever had this issue before?

I'm in the same boat... I've now replaced the evaporator twice, the high side pipe (orfice tube), and Condensor. The only thing leave to replace is the rubber hoses and the compressor...I'm also still chasing a A/C leak too... :banghead:

Anyone ever figured out the cost to wind up replacing all the parts of the a/c system. It would be nice to find the leak with out replacing the entire system. But it sounds like we may have to start eliminating part by part and try and figure this out.

Mines work great until it starts getting 100+ out side the. It's like pissing in the wind. Sent from my iPhone

Mine works great in the 04.5, but the 01 is the work truck. I own an irrigation company, and the guys have been on my case to get it fixed over the last 2 years. They don't like it when they have been installing all day in 90 degree plus weather, and have to ride back to the shop in a furnace. I can add the refrigerant, and it will work good for about a week or two, then go back to blowing warn air.

--- Update to the previous post...

I'm in the same boat... I've now replaced the evaporator twice, the high side pipe (orfice tube), and Condensor. The only thing leave to replace is the rubber hoses and the compressor...

I'm also still chasing a A/C leak too... :banghead:

Mopar, why did you have to replace the evap twice? It would be nice just to add the dye, and open the hood, check with uv light, and see a bunch of dye leaking in one place. That has not happened for me.

I too added dye. I didnt find it until i took the hvac box out. It was under the evap. I could charge mine up and it would last a few weeks,then a few days,then no dice at all. You could pull out the hvac box and replace the heater core wile you are in there.

I am in process of changing out the heater core, and the evap. I hit the evap with the light, and didn't see anything glowing, so I don't think that it was my evap. I was kind of hoping that it was, then it would solve the issue of the ac leak. I don't think that I am that fortunate.

Simple thing first you could try is a seal kit for about $10 buck and replace all the seals in the system.

In this case nitrogen would be your friend. If you system is empty, charged some in and you can leak test. Most likely the leak is on the bottom. where leaves and debris gets in. Leaves can be acidic as well as pine needles too. use soap bubbles or a electronic leak detector. Where ever there is any refrigerant oil is the leak won't be far away.

Mopar, why did you have to replace the evap twice? It would be nice just to add the dye, and open the hood, check with uv light, and see a bunch of dye leaking in one place. That has not happened for me.

Assumed... Because I UV check all the stuff under the hood and couldn't find any dye so I assumed the evaporator failed twice. Because after replacing it it ran great for over 9 months then failed again... :banghead:

I am in process of changing out the heater core, and the evap. I hit the evap with the light, and didn't see anything glowing, so I don't think that it was my evap. I was kind of hoping that it was, then it would solve the issue of the ac leak. I don't think that I am that fortunate.

I dont know how far in the process you are but i couldnt see my leak until i removed the evap and looked under it.

I have the whole hvac box apart, and looked in the box and at the evap with the uv light, and saw nothing. I will get a seal kit, and see if I can maybe take it to a good a/c place to try and nitro test it maybe.

Something that may help with the diagnosing the evap is to use an electronic leak detector and sniff the drain tube under the hood. The reason for checking the drain is because refrigerant 134A is heavier than air and will seep to the lowest point.

I'm going to replace all the seals in the ac system, and see if I can find any spots that may have leaked when I replace the seals.

In this case nitrogen would be your friend. If you system is empty, charged some in and you can leak test. Most likely the leak is on the bottom. where leaves and debris gets in. Leaves can be acidic as well as pine needles too. use soap bubbles or a electronic leak detector. Where ever there is any refrigerant oil is the leak won't be far away.

How do you use the nitrogen? Lik eothers I have the same thing. However, I think it might be the schrader valves in my system. Did the soap and water and it blew bubbles on the low side port.

Lucky you, 2500ctd. It looks like a new set of Schraders, NO bubbles allowed, and Where did the caps go?

How do you use the nitrogen? Lik eothers I have the same thing. However, I think it might be the schrader valves in my system. Did the soap and water and it blew bubbles on the low side port.

The nitrogen is used to pressurize the system to help find a leak. If you had bubbles from anywhere on your system you have a leak.

The nitrogen is used to pressurize the system to help find a leak. If you had bubbles from anywhere on your system you have a leak.

You can get more pressure with the nitrogen and it is cheaper then the refrig. can probably put in 175psi. I propane fired leak detector may be the best way to go. cheaper and dependable and works great no patteries. They use a venturi to draw the air/refrig. in and they use the fact that the heated copper plate on the tester will turn the Refrig. to phosgene gas(muster gas) and turn green indicating a leak. charge it and place in the evap. housing and wait for a green flicker of the flame. Refrig is heavier then air will settle to the bottom. ED

I had a very similar situation with my AC. I would add refrigerant and it would cool for a few weeks then the air temp would start rising.Did the dye and leak check multiple times and still couldn't find the leak.Finally replaced the schrader valves (2 of them) and the cooling worked longer than a few weeks. But alas I started getting the warm air again after 5-6 weeks.Checked the schraders again and found one of them leaking again. Installed a new one again and this time it stayed cool all summer long.Are those schrader valves made in China? I was sure wondering.

Yea I did replace the schraders and it leaked out faster. I hope it is just the schraders and I did not introduce an additional leak. Where did you get yours? I got mine from a little kit at Napa.

Yea I did replace the schraders and it leaked out faster. I hope it is just the schraders and I did not introduce an additional leak. Where did you get yours? I got mine from a little kit at Napa.

I'm willing to try that... Thank you for the suggestion!