Looking for some more idea's for RV mods, from simple to expansive. What I have done..Home digital thermostat non-skid in all compartments, planning on doingWater tank accumulator, 1" high pressure propane connections under frame rail, A/C hard start capacitor SPP6E, dual 12v's, (6's don't fit :banghead:)

My instructions state to either blow it out or use anti-freeze. I have seen several pumps fail from just using air alone, which is why I do both. It doesn't get crazy cold here, but it will dip below 0 so I so t want to mess with it.

On my trailer the first thing inline after the pump is the low point drain so the cup of anti-freeze comes right out and doesn't contaminate the system. I only put anti-freeze in the pump for the main winterization. In between late winter trips I just blow it out, unless the forecast is for 15ish or colder.

With the cold temperature up here I've pink anti-freeze turn solid but didn't damage any plumbing. I entered my RV the first year of owning it that winter at about -10*F and the system was professionally winterized and poked a stick at the p-trap in the tub and the anti-freeze was rock solid.  So from this point I've continued to just blow the system out. Both the water system and the p-traps.

I thought the pink stuff was good to -50???

While my fresh water gets minimal anti-freeze I do pour it down the drains to ensure the p-traps don't freeze.

I look at it this way as long as there is no liquid in any pipes then it will never freeze. Because if air freezes we have new problem.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_air

 

The boiling point of liquid air is approximately 78 K (-195 °C)(-319 F), and it freezes at approximately 58 K (-215 °C)(-355 F)

I look at it this way as long as there is no liquid in any pipes then it will never freeze. Because if air freezes we have new problem.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_air

 

The boiling point of liquid air is approximately 78 K (-195 °C)(-319 F), and it freezes at approximately 58 K (-215 °C)(-355 F)

 

Yeah, but you can never make it 100% liquid free. You can pull things apart to get the p traps dry, but it's easier to dump a little anti-freeze in.

 

I am going to guess that the professional winterization either forgot to dump anti-freeze in the sinks or they diluted their stuff to save money. There is a big difference in -50° and -10°.

Most people don't realize that anti-freeze is a misnomer. Anti-freeze WILL freeze, but it does not expand the way water does. Even if the trap was frozen solid did it need replacing the next spring?

Yes it will freeze, but much colder than water. Anti-Freeze, not Never-Freeze.

 

How does it not expand?

 

I know that coolant (anti-freeze) will expand when it freezes and will pop blocks and radiators, how is the RV stuff not any different?

 

The p-trap probably didn't need replacing because it has room to expand back towards the sink and down the drain.

I hooked up the batteries to test the shunt and put a charge on them. Well they didn't need much of a charge it took less than 5 minutes to be at 1.5A charge rate (Lifeline says they are charged when charge rate drops to 0.5A per 100 AH).

I turned the furnace on and it draws about 7.7 amps, resulting in a 0.2V drop vs the 0.5-0.7V drop on the old setup.

On the old batteries when the converter would step down the voltage from bulk to absorb to float the voltage would fall off instantly, the new batteries take a long time to drop. In fact when I went from bulk to float after 5 minutes the voltage was still about .4V above the charge rate and wasn't charging.

I think these batteries will have a lot of power, especially for winter use.

The box is close to being done. I have the support skeleton built and need to get the plywood. I went to Lowe's and was ready to get the wood and have them cut it, but their saw was broke so I need to go across town to a different one.

 

Those 1/2" holes are going to be the inlet for the vent. I need to test and make sure it flows, but it should.

Yeah, but you can never make it 100% liquid free. You can pull things apart to get the p traps dry, but it's easier to dump a little anti-freeze in.

 

I am going to guess that the professional winterization either forgot to dump anti-freeze in the sinks or they diluted their stuff to save money. There is a big difference in -50° and -10°.

At least we don't have those issues here in Florida

I'll take those issues any day to be in the mountains

Do your new batteries not vent any toxic gas while charging?  Looks like they'll be in a living area.

I'll take those issues any day to be in the mountains

I would have to agree AH

Do your new batteries not vent any toxic gas while charging?  Looks like they'll be in a living area.

 

 

Under normal operation they vent less than 2% hydrogen (4% is required for combustion), but even with that I am going to vent them.

 

The spot in photo #2 is directly behind the wall where the batteries are in photo #1. I need the plywood to be able to move them into place.

 

If you look at photo #2 you can see the 4 1/2" holes I drilled into the enclosed underbelly for fresh air inlet, I will then run a hose from the top of the box to the outside of the camper.

 

Where they are sitting in the photos is just for testing.

AH64ID are you going to place a steel pan under the batteries? Even being a seal battery or AGM I would still place a steel plate or pan under the batteries for floor protection and to possibly capture any leaking electrolyte which is very rare for most sealed batteries but might happen.

I am not going to, I really don't see the need. I am not even sure how they would leak as they can be mounted in any direction.

I've got a really big 12v battery from a big diesel rig.  Only place I could locate it is a place like you're doing.  But it would really help with power storage.  Can I leave my two group 24 batteries on the tongue and locate this battery somewhere else without having issues?

You typically want batteries to be matched in design and rating.

That's what I was afraid of. Thanks

Your best bet would be to put a pair of 6's on the tongue, and the cheapest would be to relocate the 24's inside into a sealed/vented box. The increase in available amp hours from warm batteries would be substantial.

I own an 8d battery. Wondering about a battery switch and charge/discharge independently. That would give me a lot of amp hours.