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I am going to replace my rear brake pads, rotors and e brake. question is how to remove the rear rotors. Do you have to remove the rear axle and bearings? I see in a photo about adjusting the ebrake that Mikes rear rotor is removed but the axle is still in place. Is mine just stuck or does the axle have to come out? It is a Dana 80 rear.:shrug:

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  • Owner

No... You need to look at the wheel studs for clips. There will be round clips holding the rotor in place. Now when you remove them you'll most likely distroy the clips. Then back off the E-brakes shoes by turning the starwheel towards the axle. Might have to rap on the rotor to free it but...post-2-138698185441_thumb.jpgpost-2-138698185446_thumb.jpg

Look behind the drum. There is a slot that goes left to right. Stick a flashlight in it. You will see a wheel looking thing with tabs on it. Put a regular screw driver in it. Move it, if it stops go the other way, this will move the pads away from the drum. Take a hammer and a pipe or something and hit between the lug bolts. DONT hit the threads or your day will go bad. That should do it. After you move the slotted wheel in the drum move it back and forth and pull on it at the same time.

  • Author

Well the star wheels backed off quite easily. I beat on the hub some they finally came off. My e brake had been going away steadily over the past 3 years, just figured they were wearing out. But I did figure that out too. It is hard to be a brake shoe when something keeps oiling you. I guess my rears seals are going away. Never saw anything leaking. What was present inside the brake drum looked more like grease than rear end fluid, but the smell is undeniably rear end dope. Any body got a good right up on changing the seals?Is ther any need to replace those little clips that were on the wheel studs?

If you are talking about the ring that goes on the stud to sit on the drum i dont think you need them. It is to hold the drum on when new on the line so they dont rock when they build it.

  • Author

They looked like they were for new assembly, because there was no need for them when i took it apart. the rotor was very solidly attached untill I got the prybar.

Just finished doing front and rear brakes, parking brake and both pinion seals last night on mine, both of my back rotors needed a pretty good beating to get them off of mine as well even after loosening the star wheel adjuster. And yea the clips are trash only needed for factory assembly.-Jordan-

  • Author

Mine actually popped of pretty easy once I looked at it a little better. The ebrake shoes were not holding them, they were to well greased. I am not sure any store has any braked cleaner left. I was shocked at how much brake pad was left after 253k on the factory pads. I put some pictures up soon.

  • Author

I got every thing done and drove it for about 3 miles. All seemed well, though I got a little wiff of brake. I drove for 5 miles the next day and got some smoke. I figured it was the e brake, so I adjusted them back off and drove about 7 miles to my brothers house and got the same smoke and stink. I got done there and went back home and it got worse. Turns out one of the calipers was frozen. Took it apart and could not find anyone who showed a reubuild kit on there computers. I ended up having to buy a rebuilt caliper. That really sucked at $60. No one here had a kit so i had to buy it. I have to leave for Iowa friday and could not wait on shipping. Rock auto had the kit for rebuild.

I got every thing done and drove it for about 3 miles. All seemed well, though I got a little wiff of brake. I drove for 5 miles the next day and got some smoke. I figured it was the e brake, so I adjusted them back off and drove about 7 miles to my brothers house and got the same smoke and stink. I got done there and went back home and it got worse. Turns out one of the calipers was frozen. Took it apart and could not find anyone who showed a reubuild kit on there computers. I ended up having to buy a rebuilt caliper. That really sucked at $60. No one here had a kit so i had to buy it. I have to leave for Iowa friday and could not wait on shipping. Rock auto had the kit for rebuild.

I only wish they were $60 here! Try $130+... :mad:
  • Owner

I got every thing done and drove it for about 3 miles. All seemed well, though I got a little wiff of brake. I drove for 5 miles the next day and got some smoke. I figured it was the e brake, so I adjusted them back off and drove about 7 miles to my brothers house and got the same smoke and stink. I got done there and went back home and it got worse. Turns out one of the calipers was frozen. Took it apart and could not find anyone who showed a reubuild kit on there computers. I ended up having to buy a rebuilt caliper. That really sucked at $60. No one here had a kit so i had to buy it. I have to leave for Iowa friday and could not wait on shipping. Rock auto had the kit for rebuild.

They start binding when brake fluid grows on the piston causing the binding problem. Might help with MPG's too... :whistle:

Sorry I wasn't around to tell you but just pull the caliper apart and clean it up. Brake clean and Scotchbrite pad will clean them up nicely... :rolleyes:

  • Author
I only wish they were $60 here! Try $130+... :mad:

That is pretty crappy when you look at what they have to replace. The parts are less than $5 if you buy them. the seals anyway, dont know wht the pistons cost if they are bad. Cant be that much.

--- Update to the previous post...

They start binding when brake fluid grows on the piston causing the binding problem. Might help with MPG's too... :whistle:

Sorry I wasn't around to tell you but just pull the caliper apart and clean it up. Brake clean and Scotchbrite pad will clean them up nicely... :rolleyes:[/quote

As far as I know they were not binding until I replaced the pads. That is the first time those pistons had seen the the backs of those bores since 2001. The worst thing is when I took them apart I pried the boots off with screw driver. Pretty muched trashed them. When I got the new ones out and saw the were too big:doh:.

  • Owner

As far as I know they were not binding until I replaced the pads. That is the first time those pistons had seen the the backs of those bores since 2001. The worst thing is when I took them apart I pried the boots off with screw driver. Pretty muched trashed them. When I got the new ones out and saw the were too big:doh:.

Too big those are front boots... Smaller are rear boots... Funny I re used my boots 2 times and replaced them on the 3rd go... Just got to be careful. :rolleyes:
  • Author

Too big those are front boots... Smaller are rear boots... Funny I re used my boots 2 times and replaced them on the 3rd go... Just got to be careful. :rolleyes:

I probably could have used mine again. They appeared in good shape and thinking I had them I just popped them off. So much for thinking.:duh:

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.