Ok Gang...I've got a for sure way to diagnose torque converter lock up issues where it lock and unlocks at about 45-50 MPH. I had a gent call me yesterday with this problem and he's replace both batteries, alternator and the APPS sensor. Attempted all the different wiring issues (adding ground, tinfoil etc.) nothing worked. Like I told him the truck ran 11 years without all this stuff and doesn't require any wiring change to make it work. What it needs is the damaged part to be replaced. So he's returned the wiring back to stock setup.Now I told him to unhook the alternator fuse and take it for a ride... Guess what... No problems! Even though he replaced the alternator it has a damaged diode in it and it bleeding AC noise into the electrical system.So before doing any wiring mods, tinfoil, adding grounds, adding filter... PLEASE! Bench test your alternator! This is the second time I've suggested this and both time resolved the torque converter lock up issue.

9 hours ago, beetle said:

Did you get rid of three grey plugs (female and male) that are from the negative to the body grounds and go to the PCM. these were a problem area for me also.

 

Yup, those are actually the plugs/connectors I was referring to.  

9 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I just put dielectric grease on all the plugs after 15 years still working just fine.

I wish the previous owner of my truck had done that.  I bought my ‘99 in 2016 and dialectic greased everything I could after the symptoms started.  I think it was just to late for such an old stock truck.  It sat a lot also.  The second owner only drove an average of 7k miles a year since 2001.  

On 10/12/2017 at 1:36 PM, pepsi71ocean said:

 

When testing are you using a good quality voltage meter? also can you give a list of things you have replaced, or tested on the electrical system.

 

Also how was you battery grounds when doing a vDrop test?

 

3 different volt meters all connections all throughout the truck greased, just recently had the alt rebuilt with brand new everything from a reputable shop and he even let me watch him do it. He also has heard of this issue and doesn't believe its an alt issue. This is obviously a dodge issue isn't it? I mean there would have to be a recall or something. Ive spent way too much time on this issue and from what I read TONS have this issue. Whats the fix? 

Don't get discouraged. The solution is out there. Keep at it and the worst that can happen is you learn something.

9 hours ago, kzimmer said:

Don't get discouraged. The solution is out there. Keep at it and the worst that can happen is you learn something.

ive been looking for it since 2009.

The only other idea was the speed sensor on the tail shaft of the transmission. Did you try that?

Not sure if I posted this earlier in the thread but I was chasing a torque lock up issue on my 2001. Due to another issue I ended up checking the voltage on my APPS and had to adjust it. After that I didn't have a problem with it again. 

2 minutes ago, pidaster said:

Not sure if I posted this earlier in the thread but I was chasing a torque lock up issue on my 2001. Due to another issue I ended up checking the voltage on my APPS and had to adjust it. After that I didn't have a problem with it again. 

 

Just make sure you adjusting the voltage properly. Do not adjust the voltage to match the tag voltage you want to be BELOW the tag voltage a little bit. 

On 8/25/2017 at 9:58 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

No. Like right now I'm fighting an alternator AC issue but by the time the alternator cools the AC noise drops back to normal levels. Like yesterday I was hauling the RV home and the under hood temps were rather high. The cruise control was making some weird changes coasting in the wrong times then accelerating at other times when it should be coasting. Once the alternator cooled off as I got to Council, ID and there was cooler air the problem disappeared. So no it's not always a constant everyday problem and this is why I highly suggest you do not use any wiring mods or ground relocations because you are capable of sensing the problem early and given plenty of warning of the issue. 

Alright I took my 35's off thought this maybe the prob. Also checked alternator and all grounds cleaned and greased. I'm ready to just burn it down

Can I just run a lock up switch and be done with it. Also would that be ok on a stock tranny to do?

2 minutes ago, Hudsondust said:

Also checked alternator

 

What was the test results?

.03 took it off and had bench tested to make sure. Then I unhooked it and pulled the fuse to drive around like suggested but nothing changed

Definitely would advise against a lock up switch on a stock trans.

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Posted April 9, 2015

Update on my ongoing torque converter locking/unlocking issue:

My transmission croaked last winter, and I went with my mechanic's recommendation of a reman from Jasper.  This has been working fine, as it should for $4000, except my intermittent locking/unlocking thing has continued.  The last couple of times, cleaning the battery cables didn't help for very long.  I did, at some point here, test the AC output of the alternator at .022 volts, with two different meters, and I had long ago tried pulling the alternator fuse, with no affect.  A few weeks ago, I took the truck back to the mechanic for a minor leak at the dipstick tube (I think), and mentioned that the hunting thing again.  He added a ground wire to the APP, which he said had helped the problem on a number of other trucks that he takes care of.  I've been several weeks without a single lock/unlock incident. 

 

But now, I occasionally get a dead throttle pedal, and a fault code of P121 (APP signal not right).  It always comes back with a couple of strokes of the pedal, and Lance says I should probably replace the APP.

 

Am I right in my interpretation of the alternator AC voltage test that I do NOT have an alternator problem?

 

Anyone have advice on replacing the APP?

 

Anyone else ever put a ground on the APP?

50 minutes ago, jdeng said:

Anyone else ever put a ground on the APP?

Don't add a ground to the APPS sensor this is supposed to be a "floating ground" and NOT to have reference to the body or true ground. You in turn affecting all sensor grounds when you do that I highly suggest you remove that added ground. 

13 hours ago, Hudsondust said:

Alright I took my 35's off thought this maybe the prob. Also checked alternator and all grounds cleaned and greased. I'm ready to just burn it down

Can I just run a lock up switch and be done with it. Also would that be ok on a stock tranny to do?

 

How quickly can you destroy your transmission is the real question. IMO I wouldn't do it, the Overdrive units are weak as it is, add in some more lock up power will not fix it.

 

13 hours ago, Hudsondust said:

.03 took it off and had bench tested to make sure. Then I unhooked it and pulled the fuse to drive around like suggested but nothing changed

 

Driving it around with the alternator unhooked, and you still had lock up problems, then it is a ground issue. 

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by pepsi71ocean

1 hour ago, jdeng said:

Anyone have advice on replacing the APP?

 

The only APPS sensor I would suggest is the Timbo's APPS being it completely mechanical and there is ZERO electronics inside. No voltage to set. 

On 10/10/2017 at 2:16 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Typically it's an alternator issue or tail shaft speed sensor either or... I will not suggest Band-Aids. I will suggest you have you alternator bench tested.

I've done that and even had it rebuilt

14 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

The only other idea was the speed sensor on the tail shaft of the transmission. Did you try that?

been through 3 brand spankin new ones

If the alternator is completely removed. (Alternator fuse and field lead unplugged) you still get shift or lockup problems then I would look towards ground issues or speed sensor issues. Remember the speed sensors use AC waveforms to report speed frequency back to the PCM. 

 

My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 is unmolested yet and still no shift issues to date with it 46RE. As for my 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 I've been through 5 alternators and all where bad diodes and all caused cruise control surge issues since I don't have an automatic 47RE transmission.

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

14 hours ago, Hudsondust said:

Alright I took my 35's off thought this maybe the prob. Also checked alternator and all grounds cleaned and greased. I'm ready to just burn it down

Can I just run a lock up switch and be done with it. Also would that be ok on a stock tranny to do?

i have a brand new ATS trans with a lock up controller, still does it. Im about to ghost drive mine off a cliff.

has anyone asked dodge the question...why? 

Maybe it's trans itself. I've heard some hit or miss things from ATS

22 hours ago, notlimah said:

Definitely would advise against a lock up switch on a stock trans.

 

Why?