I really just want to see if it is just me or if others have the same luck. 3 years ago i smoked an airdog 150. Bad seal between motor and pump burned it up. 8 months thirteen days on that one. Replaced with a raptor 100. 123 days later, bad seal, smoked motor. Replaced with a raptor 150, Big lines from DSV to VP. A year and change later. Dead. Opened it up and I'm telling you, no magnets left. Just a big pile of soot and carbon inside. Replaced with a warrantied 150. Eight months to the day, same thing. Dead. Only this time, brushes as well. I rigged up a stocker with some fittings and hooked it to the biglines of the Raptors, plugged it into the raptor harness and away we go. Holds 14 steady with an easy foot and thats what i'm going with. I am not a fan of those pumps and going to run this untill i can afford an assasin. Got to be the biggest pile of horsepucky ive ever seen. :moon:

another option if your running an aftermarket cam(12v cam) would be a piston style lift pump(like used on p pump 12v). some 12v(non dodge) with ve and lucas cav pump use a piston pump that runs 18psi.

But it all been proven that the old school 12V pump can't keep up with high volume flows at high RPM's this is why most are switching to a electric pumps. http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html

that is very true and it would be impractical as well, before all the electronic pumps came out the lower psi piston pump was a good upgrade for first gen trucks.has anybody had any problems with the new quick connect fittings leaking?

Me too..... I sure wish someone could get another replacement pump that they don't want and tear it down with pics. Might be very interesting.

My defective -100 worked great the next day after it had cooled down. I did a quick check into the pump after pulling it off (am an aircraft mechanic, so see a lot of pumps!) and it looked just fine. No debris, turned over great but I had lost faith in it and had a new warranty pump coming, so it got sent back to Jeff City and the factory. FT

An update to this thread. Just lost my 3rd Raptor 100. It did the same as #2, overheating while driving and slowly losing pressure. Stop by the side of the road for 2-3 minutes and it cools down enough for another 20 miles. Just emailed Pure Flow advising them that its time to send out another replacement warranty pump... Looking at alternatives now, tired of changing the pump out as well as the truck not being reliable.FT

There is supposed to be a guy on a Ford forum who changed out the Raptors wiring to larger cable and it ran much cooler. The post even shows pics how to change the wiring inside the motor as they were way too small of gauge. He said it solved his troubles.

I proved a while back that the Raptor uses the same motor as the AD100, yet the AD100 seems to suffer a lot less problems than the Raptor. So what are the differences? The AD100 is mounted on the frame rail as opposed to the side of the engine and is not subjected to constant heat and vibration like the Raptor is. The AD100 also pulls through the f/w seperator before any fuel travels through the pump so there is no chance of anything plugging up a screen or gear. The AD100 pushes fuel while the Raptor has to pull it. Pumps are more efficient and designed to push fuel. Also when one installs an AD100 the fuel lines are almost always upgraded to 3/8 or 1/2". Those small OEM fuel lines are way too restrictive for a pump to pull fuel 10+ feet through IMO. I would be willing to bet a fair wager that by simply relocating the Raptor to the frame rail, upgrading to 3/8 or 1/2" fuel lines, and possibly installing a catch all fuel filter (nothing too restrictive) the Raptor pump would suffer A LOT less failures. :thumbup:

Until I found this thread, I had read little of the Raptor 100 problems. Based on that I have just ordered (three days ago) a Raptor 100 pump to replace my OEM style Carter lift pump. My truck is completely stock so I figuredthe 100 gph would be more than adequate over the Carter's 60 or so gph. You guys have now got me a lttle concerned over this new pump !I think I will probably increase the size of the suction line from the fuel tank to ensure adequate flow. Any special fittings needed to do this - anyone ??? Any other information would be greatly appreciated.Thanksmariner

I think you would be wise to relocate it to the frame rail. Vulcan Performance sells relocation kits or you can piece it together yourself if you have the recources.JR

I think one problem with the AD Raptor pumps is they run too hot and the seal fails then and lets diesel run up into the motor.To keep pump cool;Shorten wiring harness for less resistance as well as increase wire and relay size.Increase all fuel lines to 1/2'' lines for the pump to not work so hard.Mount as close to the tank as possible with an easy flow filter (larger micron size) before the pump

I think one problem with the AD Raptor pumps is they run too hot and the seal fails then and lets diesel run up into the motor.

To keep pump cool;

Shorten wiring harness for less resistance as well as increase wire and relay size.

Increase all fuel lines to 1/2'' lines for the pump to not work so hard.

Mount as close to the tank as possible with an easy flow filter (larger micron size) before the pump

Motor shaft seals are a lube problem I think more than heat.

Pump motor should stay cool as long is there is little resistance. AD 100 or AD 150 has a full size return where the Raptor doesn't it just re-circulates internally and tend to cavitate more so because of this design. Since there is no longer no fresh fuel flowing really the pump runs hotter at this point where a full flow AD 100 or AD 150 is returning everything to the tank.

Then 1/2" lines are rated for way more flow and way less suction restriction vs. 3/8" line.

Don't worry about length just increase the gauge size of the wire. Like my solar panels are about 100 feet from the house only provide a mere 15-20 DC Amps. But to over come the length problem I increase from 14 AWG to 2|0 AWG and now there is ZERO line loss in power. So in the same thing just upgrade from the current AWG size and go up to 14 AWG or even 12 AWG.

Every raptor pump I have installed comes with 1/2" lines. Ive done over two dozen pumps and sold probably a dozen more and have only had two go bad. Pureflow replaced them with no questions. Those pumps were during the ownership changeover

Mike,I have had the big lines for two of the bad pumps, so thats not the issue in my case.Am going to be running larger wires and a heavy duty relay sometime this week so that when the new pump arrives its ready to go. Anyone have an idea how many amps this pump is drawing? 15-20 or so? Would hope that some 14-12 gauge wires would work fine going to and from the battery and relay, then using the stock power wire for the trigger...The truck works fine on short drives, say 20 miles or less. Did a 18 mile drive today and it started out at 21 psi and when I stopped it was down to 15 most of the time, and hit 14 psi a couple of times. Let it sit for 30 minutes and drove home and the pressure stayed at 15 or higher.Last week when the pump was not dying, it would have stayed above 18 psi the entire time, even at WOT.FT

Thank you Mike for the wire size chart. I think when determining the correct wire size you have to add in the total length of positive and negative leads. So if the pump takes two 12 ft. pieces of wire, you figure a 24 foot run to estimate wire size.

Thank you Mike for the wire size chart. I think when determining the correct wire size you have to add in the total length of positive and negative leads. So if the pump takes two 12 ft. pieces of wire, you figure a 24 foot run to estimate wire size.

Hmm, not sure what you are working with but I do electrical work on aircraft and we have never heard anything about combining the wire length. With a wire run of say 6 foot, a 15 amp continuous load on a 12 volt system and the wire in "open air" (not in a wire bundle), the FAA says that a 16 gauge wire would be fine. Just to be save am going to use 14 gauge wiring on my relay setup to make sure that the pump has no volts or amp's issues. http://www.everyspec.com/FAA/FAA-AC-PUBS/AC_43x13-1B_Change-1_14158/ The chart is "11-2, Conductor chart continuous flow" FT

Remember to check the fuse size for the maximum amp rating that you would be handling like mine is a 15 Amp fuse so you know its going to be less than 15 Amps.

Just to add my input here. I purchased my rapter 100 early this last spring. I have it relocated on to the frame rail and have always ran 3/8's line from tank to VP. I also installed a BF1212 fuel filter before it when I put the pump in. So far I haven't had any issues with it. Maybe being away from the engine and having a good filter before it has saved it so far?? Sounds like I should have had problems with it by now according to all the issues others have had.

Remember to check the fuse size for the maximum amp rating that you would be handling like mine is a 15 Amp fuse so you know its going to be less than 15 Amps.

Good point Mike. You know that if they put a 15 amp fuse in the circuit, that its going to be drawing less than that.

I may just try to put a circuit breaker in my system (so I could reset it if needed) but have to find the conversion chart for "CB's versus fuses" then go looking in the shop!

Thx,

FT

- - - Updated - - -

Just to add my input here. I purchased my rapter 100 early this last spring. I have it relocated on to the frame rail and have always ran 3/8's line from tank to VP. I also installed a BF1212 fuel filter before it when I put the pump in. So far I haven't had any issues with it. Maybe being away from the engine and having a good filter before it has saved it so far?? Sounds like I should have had problems with it by now according to all the issues others have had.

Will,

Mine has been mounted on the frame rails since new and agree. All of my Raptor 100's have had the inlet screen on them and never found any debris in the screen when I removed them but a filter might be a good call.

On the other hand, my first pump lasted a good 18 months before dying, and the others since then have died at about the 15 month time frame. If yours starts to lose pressure, even a few psi, then keep an eagle eye on it. If it goes below 15 then its dying. Stopping by the side of the road will get you about 20 miles more, so you can get home this way.

FT

That's good to know. Thanks for the tip. I also have my old worn out fass 95 with me at all times. It holds a steady 13-15 so I would at least be able to limp it home that way if I had to. All these issues coming up really make me question the reliability of my truck. That's no good because it's our only vehicle until further notice...

This is the best you can do to prolong the life of them, IMO. Remove the pump from heat and vibration. I personally don't see any benefit to rewiring them, if they were engineered with improper wire size you would see a much higher failure rate with a lot of blown fuses and burned up relays to go along with the symptoms. It can't hurt to run larger sized wires, but I would be very surprised to see an increase in reliability if that is all that is done. JR

Just to add my input here. I purchased my rapter 100 early this last spring. I have it relocated on to the frame rail and have always ran 3/8's line from tank to VP. I also installed a BF1212 fuel filter before it when I put the pump in. So far I haven't had any issues with it. Maybe being away from the engine and having a good filter before it has saved it so far?? Sounds like I should have had problems with it by now according to all the issues others have had.

This was supposed to be quoted with above post JR