Thought I would ask the masses out there what would be the best route to take on my truck if all I am looking for is long term reliability, with enough horsepower to pull a camp trailer over a hill. Not interested in burning the tires off, or doing wheelies. Just want to put the modifications on that will give me the best bang for my buck in terms of mileage and performance. I started on the 2 cycle oil, and know I need to get a fuel pressure gauge to go along with my idiot light. Don't know anything about the Edge or tuning packages that you guys use, but want to make sure that I don't buy myself a headache trying to get a few more horsepower. Only had the truck for 6 months, and so far no issues, other than seeming a little light on power pulling a 26' trailer. Any advice for best and most cost effective upgrades for my truck would be much appreciated. I thank you in advance.

Thought I would ask the masses out there what would be the best route to take on my truck if all I am looking for is long term reliability, with enough horsepower to pull a camp trailer over a hill.

Well keep in mind with add horsepower fuel economy is all controlled by your foot...

Not interested in burning the tires off, or doing wheelies. Just want to put the modifications on that will give me the best bang for my buck in terms of mileage and performance.

Well you came to the right spot...

I started on the 2 cycle oil, and know I need to get a fuel pressure gauge to go along with my idiot light.

Well that will help with keeping the VP44 happy. But you really do need a fuelpressure gauge because the idiot light tend to trip at a very low pressure. Being that the VP44 minimum pressure is 10 PSI most light come on at 5 PSI or less... :shocked2:

Don't know anything about the Edge or tuning packages that you guys use, but want to make sure that I don't buy myself a headache trying to get a few more horsepower.

As for Edge is a proven product in my mind... I'm running a Edge Comp and haul firewood all summer long. So with a low of 14 MPG haul nealry 3 cords of firewood a shot. Then tipping the MPG on the high side at 25.3 MPG empty...

Only had the truck for 6 months, and so far no issues, other than seeming a little light on power pulling a 26' trailer. Any advice for best and most cost effective upgrades for my truck would be much appreciated. I thank you in advance.

Gauge is the first thing... (Fuel Pressure, Pyrometer, boost, trans temp (if auto))

BHAF or similuar air filter setup.

4" exhaust or Straight piped 3" exhaust.

Fuel system upgrade (AirDog, Raptor, or FASS) - NO FASS DDRP's!

Now if you go for Edge Comp like myself your going to need gauge as listed above. But the Edge Comp is a very simple box and works great!

But then there is the Edge Juice... Now thing get a bit more complex. Edge Juice has the same software as the Edge Comp but comes with gauges (fuel pressure, pyro, boost, etc). also comes with de-fueling limits, turbo cooldown timer and many more options.

Very good stuff, thanks a lot. I thought the info on my truck info would show up on the bottom of the post, but I obviously have some work to do there. FYI, 98.5 AT with 4" exhaust. Have pyrometer and boost gauge, buy am in need of fuel pressure and transmission temp. Where is the best place to get these? I just read your article on the BHAF and will be getting one of these set ups as well. 25 mpg? thats incredible. My best has been 19 on a trip. Do you contribute that to the Edge, or do you never break 55? or both. Again, thanks for the quick reply and good info. I have about a million questions, should I post them, or would you be willing to answer them on a pm? Again, Im new and ignorant. thanks

Very good stuff, thanks a lot. I thought the info on my truck info would show up on the bottom of the post, but I obviously have some work to do there.

Sorry about the profile stuff... I'm working at changing the script a bit or playing with it... you going to have to copy and paste it to your signature for now. :rolleyes2:

FYI, 98.5 AT with 4" exhaust. Have pyrometer and boost gauge, buy am in need of fuel pressure and transmission temp.

Ok so your half way there...

Where is the best place to get these? I just read your article on the BHAF and will be getting one of these set ups as well. 25 mpg?

I see 21-22 as a normal average... The 25.3 was done on a trip from New Meadows, ID to Stanley, ID down to Boise, then back up high 95 to New Meadows, ID

153,549 - 153,197 = 352 Miles / 13.915 Gallons = 25.29 MPG...

thats incredible. My best has been 19 on a trip. Do you contribute that to the Edge, or do you never break 55? or both.

Bit more that just setting a speed... It about the boost and pyrometer more so... If you keep your boost below 5 PSI you keep the added timing given by the Edge Comp on 5x5. Then if you keep your pyrometer below 600*F you know you not dumping fuel. Hotter the fire the mre fuel being dumped!

Again, thanks for the quick reply and good info. I have about a million questions, should I post them, or would you be willing to answer them on a pm? Again, Im new and ignorant. thanks

Another great aid is using a ScanGauge II because you can see instant MPG numbers on the fly and actuall aim for you MPG number you want! :eek:

Here my truck back from Missoula MT...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=82

Oh heck...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq0XG5qRLsM

Post up your questions I'm sure everyone here would love to jump in and toss 2 cents worth of information to your cause! :biggrin: The only way your going to learn is to ask a bunch of question which is a good thing! :thumbsup:

OK, this might get expensive. Do you recommend a place to buy the items you have mentioned, such as the fuel gauge, the Edge tuner, the scan gauge and air package (BHAF)? I am also curious about the proper oil for these 5.9s I currently use Delo 15-40 LE with stratopour filter. Is there better, or just as good but cheaper out there? And could you point me to a how to area on the best way to install the fuel pressure gauge. Again, I appreciate your input.

OK, this might get expensive. Do you recommend a place to buy the items you have mentioned, such as the fuel gauge, the Edge tuner, the scan gauge and air package (BHAF)?

As for the BHAF I would go to Vulcan Perforance. Now as for the other stuff you might try going over to the Vendors forum and posting and seeing what everyone got for prices...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php

I am also curious about the proper oil for these 5.9s I currently use Delo 15-40 LE with stratopour filter. Is there better, or just as good but cheaper out there?

More than good enough... Just change it every 6K to 7K miles. Ask Dorkweed his up to 70K miles without a oil change and he's running Walmart supertech Universal Engine Oil 15w-40 with a bypass filter. Then ask Taz here he's up to 600K+ miles with his 12V Cummins and it life was Cheron Delo.

And could you point me to a how to area on the best way to install the fuel pressure gauge. Again, I appreciate your input.

Sure here is my install...

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

-Gauges first....Boost,EGT,Fuel Pressure are a must in a 24v.-4inch exhaust to free up the flow some.-A good air intake of some sort as it fits your budget.The BHAF/Mallory Mount combo is a proven piece if you do not wish to spend the extra on a aftermarket system.-An upgrade to your lift pump of some sort to fit your budget.FASS or AirDog would be the better units.As for fueling boxes I would reccomend the TST PM3 for the newbie's as its easy to install and makes good power.Its a simple up or down power adjustment with the optional controller and if you desire they have a digital gauge pack/controller which is very nice.To mount that on a pillar mount you will need to order a Quadzilla A-Pillar for the Scout system and the TST PM3 control will fit right in and is easily held in place with a good double face tape or velcro.We did that with my gals truck as she wanted it up where she could get at it easily and she wanted the ease of adjustment the TST box gives you.If your an automatic truck then you may want to consider some upgrade work to the transmission to make it live(shift kit-convertor and added depth pan) and make it more efficent.if your truck is a stick then you may want to consider a good single disc clutch to help hold the added torque when towing..Just some things to think about for you.I like the Edge Juice/Attitude monitor combo but feel its way more than a guy who is just looking for towing/longevity really needs........Andy

-A good air intake of some sort as it fits your budget.The BHAF/Mallory Mount combo is a proven piece if you do not wish to spend the extra on a aftermarket system.

I have searched for the "Mallory Mount" but found nothing. Can you post pics or links to something more about this? Thanks

I have a few miles on my truck and I haul heavy things every day. My thoughts on this subject are going to be a little different than others I see. 1. Your transmission is your weakest link. You will spend more money here than anywhere else over the long run. Take the time to build this right. If you add an edge comp you will be taxing your at past its limit in a hurry. I have had 4 or 5 transmissions in my truck. 2. Look at your transmission cooler lines. They can rub together and get holes in them. That cost me a trans or two. 3. Fleetguard filters, fuel and oil. I buy dello or rotella whichever is cheaper. 4. A fuel pressure guage is great to have. I got mine at Geno's. It was inexpensive and easy to install. 5. Vulcan big line and relocation kit for the lift pump. 6. BHAF. Cheap and good. 7. If you are towing a lot get a slightly bigger injector. Stage 1 will give you the best mileage and little or no smoke. 8. You can buy a programmer that only advances the timing (power puck, edge ez, ts mvp, quad xzt) or one that does timing and fuel (edge comp, quad adrenaline, etc...). I think for towing and longevity timing is all you need. You will only get 40 to 60 more hp but your parts will last longer and you will get good mileage with low egt's. Longevity is a product of constant maintenance. Fix everything as soon as you can and try to do it all yourself. I call Mike for help all of the time!

You guys are great, thanks for all the good input. Seems to be a common theme among you which adds a lot of credibility to what your saying. I got a list for Santa, and Im being good. thanks..

Longevity is a product of constant maintenance. Fix everything as soon as you can and try to do it all yourself.

That the name of the game. It best to catch a problem while it small and easy to fix.

I call Mike for help all of the time!

Yeap this is true... I got quite a few that call me looking for help...

I have searched for the "Mallory Mount" but found nothin

I forgot that unless you were an old school TDR member you may not understand that.The guy who made the aluminum/stainless shields for the BHAF last name was Mallory.I have one in my storage shed as I took it off and do not use it at all any more. Anyway the template is now posted here you have to put it together with tape and have someone cut it out of whatever type of metal you choose to use.Then bend it at the proper lines and install the stud nuts in the bottom and attach your BHAF with a long zip tie around it to keep it in place.I will try to find a shot of it in my truck for you as I know I have one here somewhere. The Outerwears P/N for the Pre-Filter sock is WR3325-10(that would be for the red one) and it fits over the Fleetguard AH-19037.I will try and post a photo that all can see but the size of the shots allowed here are very small.........Andy

BHAF Template.pdf

Edited December 23, 200915 yr by Hammer
Photo's and spelling

Andy, thanks for the explanation. I had a idea for upgrading that heat shield. Since I used to work in the sheet metal mfg industry i had the idea of making 2 pieces. One slightly smaller than the other to compensate for the bend. Use pem inserts to create standoffs like are used to mount a mother board in a pc case. This would create a air gap from the outer plate to the inner and raise the filter so it wont rub on the ac lines. The radiant heat would be buffered by the air gap and when the vehicle is in motion the air moving under hood should be enough to keep the heat from radiating to the filter. Just a thought i have been kicking around.

Oh ok... I got that template I bet...

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm

At the bottom of the page...

I attached a PDF of the template and a shot of my original aluminum one I ad installed in my truck but do not see them.What did I do wrong as when I go to the user CP it shows me with two files loaded?. I sold the aluminum one after I had the stainless one made to replace it as I wanted more shine back then.They are easy to make and mine never rubbed the A/C lines when I used the factory mounting nuts which are in the bottom of the factory airbox.I ran a IAT sensor on the filter end as I wondered if it would draw any heat during the Summer months and found that it was a item that didn't affect the air going into the motor.I ran the IAT gauge with both the factory air box,the BHAF,a Scotty 2,AFE Stage 1 and the current setup I use the AFE Stage 2.I think the Scotty 2 would have been the best air intake for temps but I never really wanted to drill into my cowl for the air flow so i ended up selling it also.The best flowing unit I have seen for both temps and power is the AFE Stage 2 with the Mega-Cannon(or Inverted Top)filter as its worth 13hp to the ground over the AFE Stage 1 with a torque tube and the BHAF.I never ran it head to head with the Scotty 2 as it was gone before I had a chance to do my tests. I like the BHAF and for most of the average owners its a great filter that has alot of life and service.I would still run it but with my truck spending alot of time on the dyno I want every ounce I can get as it may just be enough to slide me past someone on numbers......Andy

Sorry I missed this thread earlier!!!!!:confused: I had a '99, so it's essentially the same as your truck, except I had the 5 speed. I had a 3" straight pipe on her..........crazy loud!!!!!:shades: If I were to do it again, I'd "Swiss Cheese" the bottom of the OEM air box and continue using the OEM filter. I'd also pull the crap out of the OEM intake tube. These mods are good to about 400hp............the intake and exhaust will flow more than enough for you. I'd also stay with a "street type" tire if you're looking for mileage. I currently run Cooper Discoverer ATR's on my 04.5 and they are a pretty good compromise between an AT tire and a HT tire.

No one here has mention the use of Synthetic oils in the engine, transfer case and the diffs. This is a good Change the next time it is due. It will let everything work a little easier and and will last a little longer.

Gotta lot of great tips here from you guys, thanks a lot. Got the fuel pressure gauge installed and it runs about 17 at idle, and 14 wot. I ended up coming out of the top of my fuel filter housing as I could not figure out how to get on the IP. Is this OK? I have a needle valve for isolating but I was wondering about vibration making things come loose.

No one here has mention the use of Synthetic oils in the engine, transfer case and the diffs. This is a good Change the next time it is due. It will let everything work a little easier and and will last a little longer.

My problem with synthetics is price and the other factor is contamination. Most of it is great stuff and works wonderful but the problem is if the fluid become contaminated by debris or water you got to change it regardless of the amount you just spent or the miles its not travelled. So far I've seen moisture in my differentials a few times now and just change the fluid when the white color comes. Travelling in thick slush and flood roads has bunch to do with it...

Gotta lot of great tips here from you guys, thanks a lot. Got the fuel pressure gauge installed and it runs about 17 at idle, and 14 wot. I ended up coming out of the top of my fuel filter housing as I could not figure out how to get on the IP. Is this OK? I have a needle valve for isolating but I was wondering about vibration making things come loose.

That's fine... The older Cummins has the test ports on top for that purpose. Vibration won't mess with it at all...