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Well, after a week of flushing radiator, changing water pump, replacing thermostat, and an unforeseen alternator replacement, I finally got around to installing my Fuel Boss yesterday morning, and finished it up this afternoon. I'm in the process of doing a write-up on it with all my notes and comments, but wanted to let you all know that it's working as advertised. Richard at GDP was always available for my various questions. I primed her up with a mityvac pump to the fuel boss, and keyed the stock pump several times to get out all the air and prime the filter. I cranked it for about 20 seconds or so and she coughed and started. She's running about 15-17 steady PSI for me, and when I step on it, or go faster, it builds up to around 18 PSI. I'm quite pleased with it.

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  • Well fellas the boss is in action I got it set at 16 idle and 19-19.5 wot.I could crank it up with the fass reg. but i am happy where it's at.

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same specs as me too, im very happy with my setup! Richard is awesome to work with!i bought 2 extra belts just in case but doubt ill ever need em. they sit in glovebox

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Also picked up an extra belt. I need to go through all my fittings though, I have a drip coming from somewhere near the filter/stock lift pump, one of those two lines. I'm gonna put my money on the hobbs fitting, as it's only held by hose clamps, not a pushLok. I might get me a pushlok tee from Geno's and replace that setup, looks more secure. I'll also pick up a new VP overflow valve. Who knows how long that things been on there. Richard mentioned that many times, when a shop replaces the VP, they reuse the old overflow valve. Took a long trip today 200 mi round trip and she did well.

You'll have years of worry free driving regarding you pump now:thumbup2:

A guy over on CF had a regulator fail and blow the top off his stock fuel filter housing. Should see the photos of the plastic cap, tore most of the threads off. Company was good about replacing the regulator, and no one has a good idea what lead to the regulator failure. Company Rep said it was the first failure of this type he had heard of. It is a switch to see a pump that can easily produce that much pressure when the electric pumps can't even seem to get out of their own way these days. I'm looking forward to a write up.

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I read about that there as well. The only things GDP has mentioned to me is with the regulator, or in this case, as it's called with the fuel boss, the bypass valve, that some debris might get stuck in the spring and cause the bypass valve to stick open, which will diminish fuel pressure with this system. I believe cumminsdieselpwr had that issue a couple weeks ago after his install. There is a check valve in the system as well which goes from a tee up to the stock lift pump, but if the fuel boss is working properly, then the check valve won't be used, as the stock pump will not be operating. It's just there to keep fuel from flowing backwards back down to the tee, from where it flows forward to the fuel boss. I think the guy at CF mentioned that it was his bypass valve spring had failed somehow, causing the piston in the bypass valve/regulator to stay closed, which caused the catastrophic failure of the stock filter due to over pressurization.

I believe the only difference between the assassin and the fuel boss is a draw straw (assassin) and no stock lift pump in the setup (assassin). Fuel Boss = Stock Lift Pump when needed and No Draw Straw. I never could find the install instructions on the internet for the assassin to compare their setup, though. But, with no stock lift pump with the assassin, there would be no check valve going to the stocker, only a bypass on the return to the tank, which both systems have. If I'm incorrect with these assumptions, please correct me.

it was actually a booger in the check valve to the electric oem LP. the fuel boss was creating a low pressure closed loop to itself. Plus we think he got a poorly machined pump as it seemed not to pull that easily. But its all remedied now!one great thing about the fuel boss setup is the OEM LP will automatically kick in and do 8psi to get you off the road should the belt break on the fuel boss. Rich said he has the original belt on his fuel boss for over 180,000 mi now.

Could you eliminate the Hobbs switch and OEM pump from the system???? I understand the convenience of priming the system after filter changes, but you could just turn the engine over no????

Could you eliminate the Hobbs switch and OEM pump from the system???? I understand the convenience of priming the system after filter changes, but you could just turn the engine over no????

if you want to burn out your starter sure :)
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Could you eliminate the Hobbs switch and OEM pump from the system???? I understand the convenience of priming the system after filter changes, but you could just turn the engine over no????

Richard told me that some guys run the toggle switch directly to the pigtail harness for the OEM pump. In other words, they leave the Hobbs in place, which would be akin to not having it there at all, just don't connect the spade connectors to it, rather they simply connect the two wires which would normally go to the hobbs directly to the wires for the toggle, so I suppose you could take the hobbs out of the fuel flow. Question is, how would you prime after a filter change (are you asking the question based on the stock filter in place? Without the stock pump, you would have no way to prime the filter other than continuously cranking until the air is out of the fuel boss lines to the filter, which as mentioned, could burn out your starter. The assassin pump doesn't use the stock lift pump, if I recall correctly. Take a look at this pdf on the fuel boss instructions, and you'll see the plumbing going to the stock and the fuel boss and you'll see what we're talking about. With the fuel boss system, the ECM connection to the stock pump is pig-tailed so that for starts and primes, the stock lift pump works as it supposed to with the key bump, and when initially turning the key to on for 2 seconds, and to supply pressure for the start. Once pressure builds, the hobbs senses it and shuts off the stocker, and lets the fuel boss do its thing.

98.5-02-Fuel-Boss-Install-Manual.pdf

Are any of you guys running any filtration other than the stock filter? I'm pondering my next Lift pump purchase, I would also like to add secondary filtration. I'm less than 20k miles into my Raptor pump and already I am having issues at start up with the pump building pressure. Its under warranty still but I just dont trust it. The electric pumps are attractive for the simple fact I can kill 2 birds with one stone (pump and filtration) but I am not exactly sold on the performance of these electric pumps. I can pick up a twin filter set up here locally at a reasonable price which is what I may do if I go the route of a mechanical pump.

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I'm running the stock filter. Best bet is to speak with Richard at Glacier Diesel and see what he says about running another filter setup.

i think he mentioned not to run a prefilter as it may cause cavitation in the mechanical pump. you could run a post filter though IIRC.

I've had my fuel boss for 2 weeks now and I love it! She keeps pulling in the higher rpms where the carter couldn't keep up. I'm chasing some fuel leaks as well and the carter and harness is disconnected otherwise it pops 2 codes. I believe Richard said no prefilter also.

Bump to the top for some updates guys.How you liking this bad boy???Pressures still the same now that you've been running them for a few weeks.Thanks.

Bump to the top for some updates guys. How you liking this bad boy??? Pressures still the same now that you've been running them for a few weeks. Thanks.

Truck runs so much smoother with the fuel boss and feels more powerful. I don't have gauges...yet...but it's definitely fueled. Again, it just keeps pulling and I even think the shifts are smoother. No more carter worries!

hey dork, yeah im enjoying the security i have of not worrying about fuel. im consistently running 15-19psi... cant pull it down on setting 5 WOT it just rises... :) i have the oem pump inline and i hear it whir before turning engine over but its nice without the raptor noise.NO LEAKS!NO PROBLEMS!NO WORRIES!!!

  • Owner

I guess the Fuel Boss is going to start gaining popularity here quickly. I'm glad to hear it working out good for you. I'm just kind of concerned about the heavy drops in pressure I hear from time to time. Is the pressure pretty stable across the span from idle to WOT?

I guess the Fuel Boss is going to start gaining popularity here quickly. I'm glad to hear it working out good for you. I'm just kind of concerned about the heavy drops in pressure I hear from time to time. Is the pressure pretty stable across the span from idle to WOT?

ive been eyeballing mine and its been stable between 15-19 idle up to wot. i dont have 1/2" lines from filter to vp but im sure if i did and had the smaller pulley id be pushing more psi. i dont see the drops you speak of mike (?)
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Installed the fuel boss about 1200 mi ago with an Airtex pump as back up. For the first 100-200 mi the fuel pressure would drop from 19 to 17-13 psi from time to time. The last 1k mi; cold 18psi, wot 20psi. and when it's warmed up 19psi, 21 wot. The drop might have been do to air in the line and the higher pressure when warm due to fuel viscosity.