So here's the deal. Truck is an 02 with a built auto, 120k miles and edge comp with tapped wire, stock injectors. After tons and tons of reading I decided that upgrading to an hx35 would be better for the truck and just make the truck better overall but I honestly don't know how to feel about it now that I'm doneThe truck makes way more heat on the egt's. Like everywhere but way up high in the rpm range. With the stock injectors and pinned I can only just barely touch 1250 unloaded but this was impossible with my hy. and whereas my hy made a max boost of maybe 20 the hx makes about 37 max psi.whats going on here? I get more heat, less spool up down low. Higher cruising egt's and lower crusing boost pressure just running unloaded down the highway and the only improvement I can see is when I'm pushing it hard but even that is next to nothing (more air but doesn't feel any different, same max temp), certainly not worth the cost.Any thoughts here guys, should I just put the hy back on and be done with it? Currently I'm not hauling or towing so its just unloaded highway driving but it feel less responsive but with similar mileage and higher cruising temps? No boost leaks anywherethanks for your help guys

I see around 625 to 650 at 65 and 3 - 5 lbs boost. You should always be under some type of boost, that makes me think you have got to have a leak somewhere in your piping or possibly even your gauge.

I see around 625 to 650 at 65 and 3 - 5 lbs boost. You should always be under some type of boost, that makes me think you have got to have a leak somewhere in your piping or possibly even your gauge.

Ok that is a bit of a thinker, I'll get out there and look at it now. Where would be the best place to check for leaks, is anything common, I only had to mess with the one boot changing the turbos out and I thought I got it clamped down pretty good. Not much I can do about the gauge but if there's a good test for a boost leak I'm ready to give anything a try

Yeah my truck at 65 is about 4-5psi and 21-2200rpm with egts in the 650-700F range.Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

what about the o-ring at the connection to the elbow? or is the elbow not seated completely into the compressor housing? seen both quite a few times.

Could you have a gauge issue? 0 psi at cruise is not correct. Look into a spring adapter for the WG, to let DP control boost.

60F this morning, 64mph per gps..

[ATTACH]5680[/ATTACH]

(the lower right boost gauge is actually my fuel pressure gauge, and the red knobbed potentiometer is a temp test for the TPS/trans issue I'm chasing)

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Ok that is a bit of a thinker, I'll get out there and look at it now. Where would be the best place to check for leaks, is anything common, I only had to mess with the one boot changing the turbos out and I thought I got it clamped down pretty good. Not much I can do about the gauge but if there's a good test for a boost leak I'm ready to give anything a try

You can rig up a pvc bull plug fitting the same outside dia as the ID of your rubber turbo outlet coupling and put an air fitting (tire chuck schrader or whatever) in the end of it that will fit in the rubber that the turbo outlet runs into. MoparMan has a write up somewhere, but I can't find it right now. Just slowly pressure up (preferably with a regulator and stand alone gauge) and listen for hissing or use the soapy water test like on a tire. You can also test your gauge this way.

I prefer to pressurize the turbo inlet, that way you are testing ALL of the fittings in the position they are in when in operation.

I had a leak past a boot even though the clamp was tight. The boot had degraded inside and the air was escaping between the metal elbow and the hose on the passenger side below the battery. Temporary solution to get to where I was going was to loosen both clamps and rotate the hose 180 degrees and tighten the clamps back up. Now I have boost again. That was a hard one to catch!

I noticed a little lag on converting to a HX35W too, until I upgraded to RV275 Injectors then it was not even noticeable. With the SMARTY hoked up then it is sooooooo much nicer to have the HX35W.

I run a s330 single turbo which makes my HX35 look like a kids toy. I only run 4 to 6 psi running down the highway. My egt is around 700 to 800. When i am pulling hills empty might see 30 to 40. When i am hauling hay or a excavator my gauge only goes to 50 psi (order the wrong gauge) and is pegged out and a EGT never get past 1100. Also running 150hp injectors for my day to day drivers. I also have a set of DDP 250hp. When i finish my pro charger set up. I am also running straight 5 inch out of turbo. It makes a huge differences When it come to temps at less in my truck.

The 330 is the HD version of the S300. What compressor do you have? 50 psi isn't common on S330 or S300 maps.

mmm i am a cheater i am running it with no waste gate. so that is yeah i am seeing 50+ for boost. Yes i know its bad but i never see high EGT. I have never seen a s330 like this one i was going to get a industrial injectors one but this one is over all over big in size and the shaft looks bigger inside. I got it a a Christmas present from my boss for putting his 12v back together for his truck after he cooked it down. I think it is for a rock truck or a grader. I have a waste gate come with the rest of my parts for my pro charger.

I'd be interested to see if you could find some specs on it. I looked into a S330 for the 360° pad, and it was just too much money for a journal bearing. They are a stout setup for sure. High EGT's isn't the only indicator of pushing a compressor past it's map. You can lead to sheared shafts too.

i looked for a couple month to try and find specs on the internet but never could find anything solid. I should got to cat and see if they could find anything on it. Only has cat part numbers on it. Really the only reason i like it so much is that is sound like a jet engine. I get ugly looks all the time on the highway. When i am pulling something and it drive my wife crazy to ride with me that the number one plus.

why not just measure it? a bigger task now that it's installed obviously but you can get close on compressor inducer size without pulling the cover.

Even my HX35W is...55 MPH = 2-3 PSI65 MPH = 5-7 PSI75 MPH = 7-9 PSI Roughly speaking.

Even my HX35W is... 55 MPH = 2-3 PSI 65 MPH = 5-7 PSI 75 MPH = 7-9 PSI Roughly speaking.

Ok so for testing it looks like I'm about 55mph = 0 psi 65mph = ~3 psi 75mph = 6-8 psi I'm starting to think that I was just expecting it to spool closer to how the hy did and that simply isn't going to happen. I played with it a bunch more and found that it really does give a lot more of a hit when I'm doing top gear acceleration passes so that is more like I would have guessed. The heat thing is a bit weird but i'm chalking that up to no boost until it gets more fuel. Seriously I can't thank you guys enough for your time and your help figuring this out. I'll revisit the issue again when I get some small injectors put on there and see if that helps it spool down low. Thanks again guys, you really have been great

I would double check your boost gauge, it seems to be reading slow and low.

I'm still not convinced you don't have a boost leak. You'd be amazed how many leaks you can have and never hear them unless you build/buy a proper tester.