New to me 2000 dodge ram with ppump conversion. Let the games begin. :lol:Got home from holidays. Truck wouldn't turn. Noticed batteries seemed dead . 10.6 V. Charged them up .... primary is holding 12.6 and secondary 11.8 (might have to replace). However truck will not turn at all.Checked the starter was getting 12V at the main terminal (large wire).Switched relays for starter around ....... no difference.Don't think it can be the fuel shutoff solenoid - as it would still crank wouldnt it just not start.So thinking I bumped something on the starter or something around that ........ideas ??

Have you tried jumping the starter terminals to see if it will crank? You are right on the fuel shutoff solenoid, if it wasn't pulling up it would still crank but not fire.

I jumped it and nothing happened but sparks Pulled starter and batteries to auto parts warehouse Starter and driver side checked OK Passenger side with low voltage bad cell Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

New rig in the house!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Couple pics

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Possible if one battery was bad wouldn't crank at all ? Also .... how to find out what was drawing battery down Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Nice looking truck! It should still try to crank even if one of the batteries is bad

Kinda what I thought too but unsure what else to look for except start chasing ignition or wiring issue Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Possible if one battery was bad wouldn't crank at all ? Also .... how to find out what was drawing battery down Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Yes, it's possible. The bad one was likely sucking the life out of the good one, causing the no-start issue..........so you may not have anything drawing down the power.

It should crank over or attempt to even with one good battery, you need to check the small signal wire at the starter solenoid for power when the key is turned to the start position. Do not know any specifics on the rig yet if it is a manual or auto, neutral safety switch bad or clutch pedal switch bad?Someone has not updated their signature yet.............................wink wink!!

I'll do that in morning :)2000 4x4 3500 srw built auto ppump. Two wires to starter solenoid one red and one black guessing you mean check if the red one is getting power ..... Can't think neutral safety switch is bad as truck was working fine until parked whilst went away for 9 days holidays ..... came back and voltage low and no crank Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I would say its the starter considering you jumped it straight from the battery and nothing happened.

Yep just hook your meter or test light to them and see if you get power when key is turned to start position.If you try to jump the starter you need to jump the battery positive cable to the little positive signal terminal to kick it in. You got sparks because you hit the positive battery terminal with a ground terminal or the body of the solenoid or starter.

Did you check your fuse for the starter?

I would say its the starter considering you jumped it straight from the battery and nothing happened.

Tested fine at the bench .....

- - - Updated - - -

Yep just hook your meter or test light to them and see if you get power when key is turned to start position.

If you try to jump the starter you need to jump the battery positive cable to the little positive signal terminal to kick it in. You got sparks because you hit the positive battery terminal with a ground terminal or the body of the solenoid or starter.

I jumped between the main battery cable attached to starter and the solenoid terminal where the two wires are - using a screwdriver.

I'll take a regular gauge wire with alligator clip and do a direct bridge from the red wire of solenoid to positive of battery with key on start position (guess this is what your saying) ......

- - - Updated - - -

Did you check your fuse for the starter?

Think its the relay ....... I swapped relays around ...... no difference

- - - Updated - - -

Well 1 new battery and 1 new fuse and she's alive.

Dont know what the cause was. Leaning towards fuse ..... but I cant for the life of me remember if I checked it prior or not ...... :banghead:

Either way - good to have it out and gave me a better look at the tappet cover leak I have deal with soon ....

thx guys

- - - Updated - - -

BTW - how to test if there is an "overdraw" on the batteries with ignition off ???

Want to see if there is something drawing down on the batteries (or not).

You need a good amp meter that is fused (in case of over load) disconnect the negative battery cables, with the amp meter set on the highest scale (20 amps or better) attach the positive lead to the negative battery cable and the negative lead to the negative battery post. If you don't see any reading go to the 500 milliamp setting, if still no reading try the 50 milliamp setting. A reading under 30 milliamps is o'k. When you first complete the circuit you may see a high reading , wait 2-3 sec. the reading should come down. If your' reading a draw of 2-3 amps there's a blub on.

Ok I have another truck wont start issue. This time it cranks but won't turn over. Cracked the airdog and the lines to get any air out no difference .... was looking at wiring for the FSS seems ok but then I found this .....

Any ideas what this fuse is for ?

Pic

Next to Larry b relay for FSS

Well replaced the 10A fuse and no different

Lever on solenoid seems all the way up ... Can't push any higher

I have never seen any fuse like that. If the solenoid lifts then the electrical is functioning. The only other thing is fuel. When you cracked the lines at the AD did you get any air? Next try cracking the banjo bolt on the P7100 and see if you get fuel out there. If you do it will still take a little bit of cranking to fire up.