My 2001 xcab/lb 4wd Auto. 126,000 Has developed an intermitent shifting issue, it doesn't want to shift out of 1st. It does it one minute then shifts like nothing wrong the next WTF? Dave

Battery connections all clean, new fluid/filter prolly 5,000 miles ago and adjusted bands then per your page on how to. Just seems really random on when it does it.

Got error codes? :confused:

Did you try to reset the APPS?

I'll try the codes and see what it says, reset my apps eh? Can that be accomplished with a 12 gauge and 00 buckshot? Thanks guys I'll have codes for breakfast. Dave

Mine has ovaries!!

rotf lmao:lmao:your truck is having it's time of the month?

I'll try the codes and see what it says, reset my apps eh? Can that be accomplished with a 12 gauge and 00 buckshot?

Thanks guys I'll have codes for breakfast.

Dave

you know....i thought there was something missing in my tool box. i wonder if mac tools makes a 12 gauge for mechanics? lol

If you use the key trick for your codes make sure it says "done" twice. If it only says "done" once you will have to use a code reader.

Ovaries? As in can't make up it's mind? Or it wants to have your babies? ROTFL!

If you park it down range, we can use it for target practice.

Yep, that thing sounds like a cannon!

Russ

Edited January 12, 201015 yr by flagmanruss

OMG! Guys... I would check codes just for the starts of things...

Don't blame me, I didn't suggest shootin' it... I just suggested a larger caliber! BTW, What caliber is 1 1/4"? I've seen trucks with dangling testicles. I was thinking of suspending 2 large hex nuts fron my hitch. Russ

Sorry had an eventful couple days, P 1693, 1757 Pecu 1693, 0230,0234 Is it pregnant? or just PMS?

First thing to do is to edit your signature. This will help diagnose your problem. Go to Settings (on top of the page) then edit signature (down on the left side). First thing I would do is to make sure your batteries are fully charged and the connections are clean and tight. (both ends!) Weak batteries can play havoc on our trucks. After doing that, I would reset your codes and see if your problem persists. If so, then you will have to replace the sensor.The 1693 is called a companion code. Nothing to worry about. The 1757 is a tranny code, it is saying that the governor pressure sensor has gone bad. Needs to be replaced. The 0230 code is a problem with the electrical connection to the lift pump. The 0234 code is for the turbo wastegate. You can try to clean the map sensor to correct that problem. Sometimes that corrects the problem.http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/map-sensor/map-sensor.htm

First thing to do is to edit your signature. This will help diagnose your problem. Go to Settings (on top of the page) then edit signature (down on the left side). First thing I would do is to make sure your batteries are fully charged and the connections are clean and tight. (both ends!) Weak batteries can play havoc on our trucks. After doing that, I would reset your codes and see if your problem persists. If so, then you will have to replace the sensor.The 1693 is called a companion code. Nothing to worry about. The 1757 is a tranny code, it is saying that the governor pressure sensor has gone bad. Needs to be replaced. The 0230 code is a problem with the electrical connection to the lift pump. The 0234 code is for the turbo wastegate. You can try to clean the map sensor to correct that problem. Sometimes that corrects the problem.http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/map-sensor/map-sensor.htm

Becareful Gasser... Your right the first time... The wastegate if rusted shut so the P0234 code is present becase the boost exceeded limits. Washing the MAP sensor isn't going to to correct this problem. But full removal of the wastegate motor and working the watesgate free will correct this problem. P0234 code means the MAP sensor is working properly because it sensed over boost condition.

Sorry had an eventful couple days,

P 1693, 1757

Pecu 1693, 0230,0234

Yeap Gasser is right about the rest of the codes... But I would suggest you get some gauges at least ofr your truck so you can monitor Pyrometer, boost, and fuel pressure.

Edited January 13, 201015 yr by Mopar1973Man

Wow for starters you guys are pretty impressive, I've read some of the other stuff and may I say you all know yer **** when it comes to this stuff. Now I'm the kind of guy that adds fuel when gauge says I need to, puts new tires on when the old ones don't hold air no more, and religiously monitors the level of the blinker fluid. So when I hear the term wastegate I think of the big valve on the back of my buddy's septic tank pumper truck. A "Pyrometer" seems like something an arson investigator would carry to me. Now I'm not skeered of tackling most any project as long as I have some guideline of the process. The wealth of knowledge you guys seem to posess is at this point a Godsend as after being fiscally, mentaly, and emotionly fugged over by my unstable ex wife I find myself in the position of having to fix my truck solo. Trust me when I say I would much rather write a check to "Bert & Ernie"s Disel Repair" but I have one kid in college, one ready to graduate HS, and a 2nd grader I'm raising pretty much solo. The white stuff mother nature disperses on the ground nowadays gives me a welcome revenue stream by pushing it into strategically placed piles in local driveways and parking lots. With all that said if I had a clue as to the governor's sensor location I could prolly handle replacing that. I could maybe even swing the rusted wastegate too. I replaced lift pump maybe a month ago (with help from your site) and all seems to be good with batteries and the fuel delivery system. I will glean through here and find how to reset the codes and maybe that will help/remove the lift pump issue code that I don't believe exists any longer. The service you guys provide here, in my opinion rivals the folks at St. Vincent Depaul or the Salvation Army bellringers as in this instance you are able to provide for a need that not many can. I would glady buy all of you a beer and exchange a hearty handshake of appreciation. If "my signature" is the list of bells and whistles added to my truck it would include "Go fast window visors" and "Tweety bird air freshener" Thanks again. Dave

Becareful Gasser... Your right the first time...

Thanks for the catch! That's why I am here to continue to learn!

So the truth comes out now...

Wow for starters you guys are pretty impressive, I've read some of the other stuff and may I say you all know yer **** when it comes to this

stuff. Now I'm the kind of guy that adds fuel when gauge says I need to, puts new tires on when the old ones don't hold air no more, and religiously monitors the level of the blinker fluid.

Ok at least your doing basics...

So when I hear the term wastegate I think of the big valve on the back of my buddy's septic tank pumper truck.

Wastegate is a valve inside the turbo on the exhaust side that prevents the turbo from over-speed. Typical turbo spins in the hundred thousond RPM's.

A "Pyrometer" seems like something an arson investigator would carry to me.

Pyrometer is a gauge that measure the exhaust gas temperature so you don't melt pistons in your engine!

Now I'm not skeered of tackling most any project as long as I have some guideline of the process.

Well there is plent of that here I'm sure if you ask enough question you'll get a answer...

The wealth of knowledge you guys seem to posess is at this point a Godsend as after being fiscally, mentaly, and emotionly fugged over by my unstable ex wife I find myself in the position of having to fix my truck solo.

Well as for the ex. I can't help you but as for the truck I can help...

Trust me when I say I would much rather write a check to "Bert & Ernie"s Disel Repair" but I have one kid in college, one ready to graduate HS, and a 2nd grader I'm raising pretty much solo. The white stuff mother nature disperses on the ground nowadays gives me a welcome revenue stream by pushing it into strategically placed piles in local driveways and parking lots.

Well as for the Bomb bug it doesn't bite here much so your wallet is safe for the most part... Hey Taz past me the RAID I found another Bomb bug twitching...

With all that said if I had a clue as to the governor's sensor location I could prolly handle replacing that.

I'm not very good with Auto's but talk to Wild and Free I'm sure he could get you going...

I could maybe even swing the rusted wastegate too.

Well you might be able to do it on the truck but its just simple to yank the turbo off and work wirth it close up... But basically there is a pressure motor with a rod that pushes the vlave open the valve itself is rusted shut. So if you take the rod lose (be careful it spring loaded and a bear to push). But after the rod out and spray it with light oil tap the arm back and forth until its free moving again. Then re-assemble.

I replaced lift pump maybe a month ago (with help from your site) and all seems to be good with batteries and the fuel delivery system. I will glean through here and find how to reset the codes and maybe that will help/remove the lift pump issue code that I don't believe exists any longer.

Well as for reseting codes you'll need a code reader... Disconnecting the batteries doesn't do it...

The service you guys provide here, in my opinion rivals the folks at St. Vincent Depaul or the Salvation Army bellringers as in this instance you are able to provide for a need that not many can. I would glady buy all of you a beer and exchange a hearty handshake of appreciation.

Sure... Beer, Whiskey, etc... It all good!

If "my signature" is the list of bells and whistles added to my truck it would include "Go fast window visors" and "Tweety bird air freshener"

Well the signature helps us even with just simple thing like year, model, trans, etc... Like just looking at the year can tell a bunch!

Thanks again.

Dave

My comments are in blue...

Check out this thread for the governor sensor, it is inside the trans pan on the valvebody. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1144-P0743-p1693?p=7539&highlight=#post7539 P1757 (M) Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI In Gear With 0 MPH Governor pressure greater than 3 psi when requested to be 0 psi (4-speed auto. trans. only). I would check and see if the TV "Throttle valve" cable is adjusted properly before condemming the gov solenoid, It runs from the apps housing above the injection pump down to the drivers side of the tranny. Or maybe you have snow or ice in the TV linkage on the side of the tranny holding it open. It could also be the gov solenoid has contamination inside of it holding it open in that case a replacement will be needed.

I have been wondering if some form of debris was going back and forth somewhere and causing the problem at one end of it's travels and allowing things to work on the other. Is the TV cable the one that interferes with access to the band adjustment screw on the side?