http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz83/joecool911/C2BDFF2E-E6B7-42A6-8668-D9F795DDC78B.jpgAnyone think this rotor is salvageable?

Edited December 24, 201312 yr by joecool911

Scrap heap! For the price of new rotors nobody should cut or grind them anymore. Drums I can see resurfacing but not Rotors especially on the front primary brakes, there is a huge safety factor there.

 

The pic looks to be a rear one and if it was a bity closer to the same thickness I would say yes but that is just too far gone already.

Edited December 24, 201312 yr by Wild and Free

no way. you can't turn them anyhow unless your friends with someone that has a brake lathe. the store won't do it if they don't mic out. a whole front axle brake kit at Napa is only like 165 rotors and pads. i just did mine. front n rears. i think the rears were like 200 though.

I have to agree... That rotor is ready for the scrap heap. Time for new rotor(s). Now I have to say it looks like the slide pins have seized up on you causing the problem of dragging the one pad against that one side constantly.

Nothing was seized. But I'll clean and lube them when I do the calipers. Just had to get it back in the road. Hip replacement surgery in February and I'm not very mobile for very long. Getting up and down is hard. I knew they were toast. That one side is 1/3 the thickness of the other. This was right rear. Left rear was fairly even on both sides. Rotors were only $35 each. Fine China.

A lot of shops can't turn my brakes because the center hole is so big.  I've had some turned successfully.  I also had a brake problem that drove me nuts & ended my relationship with the only close shop.  They missed it 3 times...  but I don't use my brakes much & then gently. so it seemed alright when I got the truck back but a month later was back in the shop...  they "did" the brakes 3X at $200 a pop.  Never thought this is the same guy back again.  Duhh!! 

I took it elsewhere & the guy replaced a rear rotor (rear discs 2001.5) that had a slight warp.  I think I was so gentle on the brakes that I wasn't engaging the rear regularly.  But when it did, it was terrible.

Oh, before that I had front discs expand & drag the caliper frame...  only thing I noticed was bad MPG.  Even towed with it.  A state inspection missed it, the dealership couldn't find it.  A year later a old school state inspector found it when he lifted the front to test ball joints...  and couldn't turn the wheels by hand. 

I have to agree... That rotor is ready for the scrap heap. Time for new rotor(s). Now I have to say it looks like the slide pins have seized up on you causing the problem of dragging the one pad against that one side constantly.

There was very little friction material left on the other side of the caliper. Maybe 5%. So maybe not as bad as it seems as far as the pins not sliding. But I'll get them addressed soon. And rebuild calipers. You mentioned intervals for rebuiing calipers and changing out fluid. Might as well change out fluid each time you crack into the system that requires bleeding. I want one of the Motive pressure bleeders. That should make it eAsy. One comment I've heard about the Motive system is that the clear hose breaks down pretty fast. But that's pretty easy to deal with. Just change it out.

Recomended intervals for changing brake fluid is every 2 years, from an un opened can. Alot of people miss the part about the unopened can, as the seal is broken on a can the fluid starts absorbing moisture, which will drastically reduce the boiling point of the fluid, and can introduce corrosion into the internals of the calipers.

Recomended intervals for changing brake fluid is every 2 years, from an un opened can. Alot of people miss the part about the unopened can, as the seal is broken on a can the fluid starts absorbing moisture, which will drastically reduce the boiling point of the fluid, and can introduce corrosion into the internals of the calipers.

Can you explain the boiling point part? Why would it boil anyway? Also I'm curious what kind of psi would be produced in the brake system?

Ok, since I don't want any excess brake fluid around, how much should I buy to flush my system? And is it ok to keep unopened cans for later use?

Got my Motive brake bleeder today in the mail.

Edited January 12, 201412 yr by joecool911

Your brakes can reach several hundred degrees under the right circumstances (heavy towing, frequent brake use, etc). The heat transfers to the calipers which can cook your brake fluid especially if theres any moisture in the fluid. This is one of the reasons why it is recomended to flush every 2 years.

I generally buy the smaller cans as once you open a big one what you dont use isnt going to keep very long. The smaller cans are a tad more money but in the end I find I generate less waste. If I know I will use a quart or more I will buy the bigger cans, but that doesn't happen very often.

Can you explain the boiling point part? Why would it boil anyway? Also I'm curious what kind of psi would be produced in the brake system?

 

Here is the brake pressure test gauge by Summit Racing.

Here is the boiling point information

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid