Jump to content
Posted

They are convenient at times, but while towing I find myself under throttling to keep it from kicking down a gear. I like to lug a bit, but give it a little more pedal and verooooom she kicks into a higher gear. Since Trans swaps are expensive and time consuming. Is there any kind of mod that can be done to go through the gears manually? I don't even know what wide open throttle is. If I go that far it will go into a lower gear and rev up like crazy.

  • Replies 21
  • Views 4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Featured Replies

Remember, lugging is never a good thing... It causes extra stress on the engine. I dunno if there is anything provided for these trans, but IIRC they make what IIRC they call a, "semi-automatic" control box for transmissions. You'd have to do some digging around to find out if there is such a thing for ours or not.

 

WOT is when you push the accel. pedal all the way to the floor and feel the power!

 

I'm not totally sure at what your trying to accomplish, but maybe you have a trans problem or your TC is slipping?

Edited by hex0rz

Then the rest is certainly over my head! :lol:

I have a lockup switch on my truck and I use it all the time while towing to hold a gear. I'm sure most people will say I'm playing with fire doing so but i use it carefully and so far no issues.

On a stock tranny I take it, per your signature?

And that is one of the many reasons I swapped out the auto for a NV4500.  I would not say it is expensive, and if you can turn wrenches it is not very difficult.  It took me about four days, three of which I was working my regular job and on the truck in the evening.  My truck is very similar to yours, we can chat about it when we meet up.  If I had to do it again I would swap in the NV4500 in a heartbeat and not look back.

  • Author

I'd love to have a manual transmission. Looking forward to talking with you.

You could install a manual valvebody which would hold a gear until you shifted it manually but I think that would get old real fast. If I'm pulling anything heavy I will generally keep it out of OD if Im running anything under 55 to 58mph, and maybe a tad higher speed if the load is real heavy or I'm in some hills. These engines will run at 2400+rpm all day long and make a ton of power, while locked in 3rd.

I have always used the shifter and just manually shifted as needed. As long as you are not going too fast for that gear all is good.

I always down shifted in my '75 Nova when going down hill or when more power was needed. AGAIN only if RPM's are valid for that gear.

If you have an OD button on that trans use it to kick out of OD and if Towing a large load OD should not be used.

 

It will not hurt your engine as long as you do not redline and the tranny should not be damaged so long as you do not drop too many gears!

Dropping too many gears will put too much force on the trans belts and they could snap.

 

I found this tactic of down shifting especially useful when driving in snow and ice and the car started to spin or slide.

Real rear drive is awesome in this situation, DO NOT TRY IN FRONT WHEEL DRIVE!! you will spin around backwards!!

ALSO DO NOT USE IF PULLING A TRAILER, YOU WILL JACK KNIFE!!! 

If you have electric trailer brakes you can use them to straighten the rig through the control unit in the snow...

I have always used the shifter and just manually shifted as needed. As long as you are not going too fast for that gear all is good.

I always down shifted in my '75 Nova when going down hill or when more power was needed. AGAIN only if RPM's are valid for that gear.

If you have an OD button on that trans use it to kick out of OD and if Towing a large load OD should not be used.

 

It will not hurt your engine as long as you do not redline and the tranny should not be damaged so long as you do not drop too many gears!

Dropping too many gears will put too much force on the trans belts and they could snap.

 

I found this tactic of down shifting especially useful when driving in snow and ice and the car started to spin or slide.

Real rear drive is awesome in this situation, DO NOT TRY IN FRONT WHEEL DRIVE!! you will spin around backwards!!

ALSO DO NOT USE IF PULLING A TRAILER, YOU WILL JACK KNIFE!!! 

If you have electric trailer brakes you can use them to straighten the rig through the control unit in the snow...

 

I actually use my shifter to down shift to help stop when driving. Especially when I really need to stop. The good thing is, the PCM will not allow a down shift to a lower gear until the RPM's are low enough. Towing my 5th wheel, I have to always have it out of OD. I can tow it on flat ground in OD, but I do not like the EGT's it produces, so I keep it out of OD.

 

Also, I have read more than once and that has been on here, these engines were built originally for running as a generator. In doing so, they were built to run at redline and run like that indefinitely. So redlining is not as big a issue with these engines as one would think. Someone, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong about this though.

 

Ask me how I know this... You drop too a low gear by downshifting manually, you will go sideways when driving on a slippery road!

  • Author

Other than the PCM, would a V10 with NV4500 work for all the other parts? Cross member, transmission, pedal and master? I see one for like $1,950 with 175,000 on craigslist local. Any idea what a good working auto trams with new t/c would be worth on the open market?

Edited by joecool911

Ask me how I know this... You drop too a low gear by downshifting manually, you will go sideways when driving on a slippery road!

 

I fan see this if you are in a turn, however, I have done this more than once in ice when sliding on a straight away and it will point you straight again.

Once all wheels break loose and you slow down the rear ones it always works. Pulling a trailer in a turn I could especially see going sideways but never the trailer, but never on a straight away have I experienced loosing traction and going sideways.

 

Not sure what the conditions you were driving in were, but I am curious.

 

I do have a manual and am not familiar with how the PCM interacts with an automatic trans.

 

I have only ever owned two front wheel drive vehicles and those are guaranteed to go sideways on a slick road, if not turn completely around, when you down shift.

I think I pm'ed my number.  Just got in town but do not have internet so it would best to call me and we can set up a time either tomorrow or Friday.

Well, let me tell you...

 

It was a few days ago and I was about a block equivalent from the home. We've got a RR crossing to stop at. I was slowing down and shifted it manually to 2nd gear. I then shifted manually to first gear because I felt I was going slow enough. HA! No...

 

Once it shifted to first gear, I did not even hear the engine rpms kick up or anything. It was just an all the sudden my rear of the truck is going right and I'm pointing to the left. Went down the road sideways for probably a good hundred feet. Thought I was going to end up in the ditch or in line with the RR tracks.

 

At this point, steering and braking would have made it worse. I reminded myself to stay calm and I shifted it back to 2nd gear and when it hit, I turned the wheels right and the truck re-oriented itself back straight.

 

...I used the brakes after that!

 

Now, if only I could hear what the people were thinking and saying that were driving behind me!

Other than the PCM, would a V10 with NV4500 work for all the other parts? Cross member, transmission, pedal and master? I see one for like $1,950 with 175,000 on craigslist local. Any idea what a good working auto trams with new t/c would be worth on the open market?

Yup, should bolt right in.

Other than the PCM, would a V10 with NV4500 work for all the other parts? Cross member, transmission, pedal and master? I see one for like $1,950 with 175,000 on craigslist local. Any idea what a good working auto trams with new t/c would be worth on the open market?

Like Mike said, no PCM is needed, but I would try to get him down on the price. At a minimum you will need to add the price of a new clutch and hydros, not to mention I don't believe the driveshafts are the same. Assuming a 175,000 mile transmission was in perfect condition your still looking at closer to 3k invested. That could go up substantially if it needs any repairs.