All right, I ordered a new set of RV275 injectors and feed tube o-rings from DAP. They will be here tomorrow. I got all my old injectors pulled today. It was actually fairly easy, I had figured 5 and 6 were going to be a pain but they weren't. I can return my old injectors for a $100 refund but I was thinking about keeping them for a spare set.

 

I decided to go ahead and take one apart tonight, and noticed there were two washers inside the injector above the spring? I've never taken one apart before, but isn't there only supposed to be one washer? Do you think the second washer has something to do with pop pressure? Injectors wore out?

 

Also, just to make sure I have the install right,

Apply clean oil to injector and feed tube o-rings

Injector hold down clamp is 89 IN LBS = 7.5 FT LBS

HP injectors lines are torqued to 28 FT LBS which I read is just tighter then snug with hand ( I don't have a crows foot)

 

Does all this sound right so far?

 

Any extra tips for the install?

 

Thanks,

 

 

Normal. Some injectors will have one shim and somee will have two or possibly more shims to tune the pop pressure. The torques you list are right but I prefer to use a inch/pound bar for the injector hold down caps. As for the assembly of the injectors I would torque the collar nut to 30 foot/pounds.

X2 on the inch pound torque wrench. You will never get an accurate reading using a ft lb wrench that low. A little tid bit most aren't aware of when it comes to using a torque wrench, the general rule of thumb is you should use A wrench that is close to the middle range of its torque ratings.

For instance, if you have a torque wrench that is rated for 250ft lbs and one that is rated for 150 ft lbs the one that is rated for 150 ft lbs will be more accurate torquing a bolt to 60 ft lbs than the 250 ft lb Wrench. The closer you get to the upper and lower ratings of a torque wrench the less accurate they tend to be.

What brand of inch pounds wrench can you guys recommend? I've looked at a few, all made in china, but don't feel like a buyer till I know what's good.

 

Thanks

Johnfak's truck with the stock injectors had 2 shims in some 1 in others.  The 2 shimmed ones had a total thickness that equaled the 1 shimmed ones so I'm not exactly sure why some are 2 and some are 1.  Calipers are only around 5-10 thousands off at the most and that is not enough to change pop pressure much at all (maybe 5-10psi) so whatever inaccuracies I might have had measuring are too insignificant to matter and it makes you wonder if they were just lazier with some injectors or what.  

What brand of inch pounds wrench can you guys recommend? I've looked at a few, all made in china, but don't feel like a buyer till I know what's good.

 

Thanks

 

Harbor freight for my 1/4" inch/pound bar and my 3/8" foot/pound bar. My 1/2" foot pound bar is a wore out Craftman's.

I'm pretty partial to Wright tools. The company I work for supplies them in the tool crib and the personal set they issue new hires. wrenches, ratchets, impact sockets, screw drivers, pliers, and pneumatic tools just to name a few. Prett much anything you need they make. They take a lot of abuse and are subjected to a corrosive environment and hold up well for years. I've been slowly infiltrating my tool set as I need replacements of something with Wright stuff. They are a bit pricey but I'm confident I won't have to buy that tool again so it's worth it to me.

I am wanting the RV injectors as well. Second guessing about some with 20 of perhaps 30 horses over that.

A buddy of mine works in Idaho as a welder and I asked him to pick me up a set of them.

He just might find a set local to his job and bring them home.

If not I will order up a set from the good folks at DAP...I think.

Would like your opinion of the install of your new injectors and how they work for you.

As for torque wrench...my best buddy is a Snapon tool truck driver. Should be able to borrow a small one, already have the 1/2 drive 300FT lb one.

Regards Chris

Chris, be careful with unknown injectors. They can cause all sorts of empty wallet syndrome or they can be just fine. A reputable place is your best bet.

I went and picked up a inch/lbs torque wrench from Oreilly's. It's made by Performance Tool, I think it did just fine.

 

Got the injectors installed this afternoon. Went fairly easy. I had I tough time getting the injectors to seat. I think the new O-rings made it tough to push in there. The only other trouble was bleeding the air. Took a while but finally got it started. I just keep bump starting it to run the pump. I was only able to bleed 1,3,4,and 5,. I have only let it run in the drive way. I have not taken it out for a spin yet too see how it drives.

 

Couple of questions. How do I know I got the injectors lines tight enough or not too tight without a crows foot? I don't mind buying a set but I don't even know if I could torque down cylinders 5 and 6 with them being so far behind the fire wall. And I doubt I could get in there to torque them on the injector pump.

 

I'm just afraid that they might be too tight?  I would assume there is nothing I can spray at each line to see if there sucking air in?

 

Another question. Is my stock turbo psi of 19 good enough for these injectors? I have an adjustable boost elbow and a new BD Boost fooler sitting in my tool box that I have not installed. Just don't really know if I need it, or what psi to run it at with the RV275s.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

Edited March 13, 201411 yr by kedlin88

If the truck starts right up and idles fine, your good. If they weren't tight enough they would be leaking fuel. I would not back them off. The more you mess with them the more likely a leak.

If your lines are not leaking fuel then they must be tightened good. If they were sucking air then there is a real good chance they would leak fuel.

Your question about turbo psi..... PSI from the turbo in nothing but resistance to air flow. In other words, If you have a good flowing head (on  your truck!!) then you would not have much in the way of PSI. Take it for a drive and watch your exhaust. If you are getting a lot os smoke then you need to figure out how to get more air into the engine, but if it just hazes then you are just about right with air flow.

Yes, starts right up and no lines are leaking fuel.

 

I will test drive it tomorrow afternoon and report back on how it drive and amount of smoke.

 

If no adjustment is needed, Is there any disadvantage to installing the fooler and elbow and running at 25 or so? Will it actually help a noticeable difference in lower EGTs or mpg?

 

Thanks,

If your pyrometer says you are running under about 1250* then you wouldn't see much in the way of gains with higher PSI, but if you are running hot then more air is needed.

I ran on my RV275's with a boost elbow and set the boost to somewhere around 30lb. I did notice a big difference when pulling my 28.5ft trailer. I also noticed better acceleration for passing nothing really on the mpg's really. You must have the HX turbo don't push it past 35lb cause then your pumping hot air and your outside the map of the turbo and can case some real damage.

About your new injectors...are they the new Bosch ones or an aftermarket brand.

Just curious about this.

 Chris

Chris, They are New Bosch Injectors.

 

I was able to take the truck for a spin. WOW. Defiantly a noticeable power gain. Especially down low, coming onto the throttle from a stop.  

 

But I do got a problem. Injector line 3 is leaking. Not a big leak but it is seeping out. I tried to tighten it up a little but it is very snug now and I didn't want to crack it. 

 

Any ideas on what to do? Should I loosen it completely and try to torque it down again? Or am I going to be looking for a new set of lines?

 

Thanks for all the help!

Sometimes you need to just let the line sit as is. You may have a small amount of fuel seeping that is not a leak and will clear up in a couple of days.

Well, found the problem. Not sure which one fixed it, but it's not leaking now.

 

I took the line completely off, and noticed the line wanted to seat at the top of the feed tube. So I loosened all the line clamps and it fell right into place where it would seat in the middle of the feed tube.

 

I went ahead and took the feed tube out and noticed a chunk missing from the o-ring. So I had to dig one of my old O-rings out of the trash and use it.

 

Got her running again with no leaks this time!!

That would do it! I was thinking you meant one of the lines that is not under the valve cover.

I played with the injectors in my jeep and did the same thing.  The injectors had 2 o rings and every time I shoved it in the hole it would roll the o ring around and tear them up on the edges of the oring groove.  Eventually I found a solution...dab some clean grease around the oring and that thing slides in without moving a bit.  Might help if you are having that issue