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Has anyone run a Torque converter lockup controller like the BD TorqLoc or the done the torque converter lockup mod? If so how did you like it? when did it work best? The reason for asking is I have built my trans with  a SunCoast stage 3 kit and when I'm driving around town or say under 50mph i leave the Overdrive off and everything feels good. But when I'm getting on the highway to go over 50 I turn the overdrive on and it feels like I will hit the overdrive gear at about 45 and my EGT's climb while the boost falls off. Im just trying to figure out if the torque converter I bought isn't doing what it should or if the trans is having an issue holding the gears or if maybe I need to the torque converter to lockup and hold the gears longer???

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you hit OD and lock at around 47. then yes your boost will fall off and egt's climb. it's doing what all of them do.

there is a mod or toggle switch you can wire into the mix and make your own lock up switch. but i'm not so sure this si what your after.

to hold the gears longer push foot further to floor.

i'm not sure if you can tighten the kickdown cable or TV cable some call it. that might get you to hold more pressure and hold a gear longer.

If you were towing a heavy load, it would act somewhat differently, by my understanding. You can try adjusting the TV cable, but the OD & TCLU solenoids are electronicly controlled & I am not sure the effect that would be encountered.

 

Ed

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you hit OD and lock at around 47. then yes your boost will fall off and egt's climb. it's doing what all of them do.

there is a mod or toggle switch you can wire into the mix and make your own lock up switch. but i'm not so sure this si what your after.

to hold the gears longer push foot further to floor.

i'm not sure if you can tighten the kickdown cable or TV cable some call it. that might get you to hold more pressure and hold a gear longer.

Oh it holds when I decide to do that... :burnout:

except I'm concerned that when hauling a 14k load up Mt Hood at a 6% grade and its pulling around that 45-47mph it locks and unlocks then i accell a little and it does it again. If I kick the overdrive off there is 2 different feelings for 3rd gear. Un-locked and Locked. I know that the locked side my egt's fall off quick I went from 1200 to 800 in seconds when the lock engaged.

Just push the O/D button and lock out O/D when pulling like that. Don't do like I did. I was pulling a long hill in Wyoming and locked out O/D and kept the rpms up and caused my headgasket to leak right above the water pump.

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I'm hoping I don't have to worry about blown head gaskets since I put in the ARP head studs.

You shouldn't with the studs. I was running about 2100+ rpms for quite a while when I made mine leak. 18 miles of up hill towing and 88* will do that to you I guess.......

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That sounds about right with the over drive off and speeds about 55-60 I'm pulling 2100+ rpm's also.

I have always had a 'problem' running these trucks above 2000 RPM. I guess it comes from learning to drive big trucks and the 290, 350, and 400s (all Cummins) were all supposed to be run between 1500 and 2100 RPMs.

Those are completely different engines with quite a bit more rotating mass.

You can do the TC lockup switch in about an hour. It'll keep the TC engaged manually.

 

Ed

  • Author

Is the TC lock up controller worth the $350 or am I going to start tearing things up? I don't want to blow out my Trans or a drive line or even a differential. Has anyone tried one and how did they like it? Do you have any problems with it?

If you want to pull at those speeds I would look into the lockup switch. That should do all you want. It'll lock the TC at almost any speed. It helped me when towing. I tow a 15k 5er in drive with the switch it's awesome at helping egt's, trans temp. It's a simple 15 min install. Run a ground wire to a switch, then other pole of switch to the wiring harness behind the air box, I'm sorry j don't have the pin or exact wire. But it's simple.

On that diagram (Depending on the year) you may want to leave the relay in place & add a resistor inline from the switch to ground. I know my 01 needs it that way & with the switch off, it works perfectly fine. Of course, yours being a 99, it may work as written up. When I tried it that way, I got a code.

Ed

Those are completely different engines with quite a bit more rotating mass.

You can do the TC lockup switch in about an hour. It'll keep the TC engaged manually.

 

Ed

Yea, I know, but..... When you are trained a certain way...... Plus there was way more torque.

We were discussing in another thread that you could run these trucks at 2,200 RPM's all day. Now what's up with a different concept. I've changed my driving habits to run higher RPM's on hills based on earlier discussion. Now you guys are talking about blowing head gaskets by doing so. What gives?

Michael has been doing it for years. His is still the same gasket. To me, so long as you do regular coolant changes, T-stat too, keep your cylinder pressure down, you should never have a head gasket issue, no matter what (Within limits) RPM you run.

 

Ed

The problem with the headgasket issue seems to be more of a 12 valve problem than a 24 valve problem. The issue is there is no by-pass on a 12 valve and when the thermostat closes (which it does on a 12v) the water pump is pressurizing the block forcing water out of the gasket right above the water pump (highest pressure area).

I have always had a 'problem' running these trucks above 2000 RPM. I guess it comes from learning to drive big trucks and the 290, 350, and 400s (all Cummins) were all supposed to be run between 1500 and 2100 RPMs.

 

Just run it like it's a 318 Jimmy.   :rolleyes:   :(   Some newer engine don't wind much above 1,500.  I don't care for those.

Just run it like it's a 318 Jimmy.   :rolleyes:   :(   Some newer engine don't wind much above 1,500.  I don't care for those.

A guy told me the trick to running a two cycle Detroit was to slam your fingers in the door and then do it again so you are real mad. I ran a 6V92 for a week and it drove me up a wall.....

Ya I've run those Jimmys some too. In old Terex construction equipment. Zero power for all the scream.

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.