This may sound like a 1st grader question, but here goes.

My 2001 with an HY turbo while pulling in the mountains will make the EGT's climb very qiuckly to the point that I have to back off and downshift to keep them in check. I have the stock exhaust, stock air filter, 47RE, 4.10"s Fass 95, gauges, stock sticks and oversized tires. I have searched this site looking for a remedy for to keep these EGT's in check. What I think I have gleaned is that I could swap the HY to a HX, put a aftermarket larger exhaust (by the way, my exhaust system has what looks like 2 mufflers or a cat and a muffler) maybe a BHAF and bigger injectors to help this situation. I just hate being passed by a Toyota Tundra pulling a camper on some of the grades or passes because I have to back off to keep the EGT in check while pulling a trailer grossing no more than 15K. I would like to know if I have interpreted what others are saying and also if I go to the HX turbo if I need to do anything special to mate up the exhaust system, so any help is appreciated.

Thanks

So my truck is very close to yours… I do have a 5 speed, BHAF, and a 4” exhaust and tow a trailer that is about 9K. Most of my towing is at altitude and when I go up a steep grade in 5^th it doesn’t take long at all for the EGT’s to climb to above 1200. I am very conservative in my approach to towing and will grab a gear to keep the temp at 1100 at the most. I could care less if the Yota passes me because I know at 100K that thing will be toast and mine will be running strong. I very seldom have to get below 4^th. I do notice that just a little bit of throttle makes a big difference in EGT temp. In 4^th going up a grade it the EGT’s start to climb, if I back off the throttle just a tiny bit I won’t lose MPH, but the EGT’s will go down. I drive more by the EGT gauge than the speedo. 

 

When I am just crusing on flat ground I try to keep the RPM’s right around 2100. That is just over 70MPH with the 3:54 gears. That seems to be the best compromise between speed and gas mileage.

 

My racing buddies go roaring past me sometimes but I get to Boise from Salt Lake only about 30 min behind them with way better mileage and never blow a trailer tire. This is a big picture thing for me. I want this truck to last. So your idea of slowing down a bit isn’t a bad option. 

If you drop the RPMs below 2000 while running down the road you will see a marked increase in fuel mileage. With mine towing my fiver I normally see 10MPG at 70, 12MPG at 65, and as high as 14MPG if I keep it below 60. Also, keep in mind that if you are running ST tires on your trailer, they are all rated at 65 mph top speed. Something else I do is run about 5 psi higher than what the tires are marked at on the side. I used to pull drop deck trailers (15" tires) for one company and we used to cary two spares on each trailer because the blew out so often. I went to another company and they had no spares on their trailers. I aske about the reason for that and they said they were running 15 psi more than the sidewall number and they rarely had tire problems. I also pulled a lot more oversize loads with them too. They were correct, even being over 34,000 on the trailer tires rarely did we have tire problems!

I just ran across a new HX35W Cummins part for $300.

Is that a good deal or not?

Yes that is a good deal

It was listed as new but after I called it turns out to be a Cummins reman.

  On 11/12/2014 at 12:59 AM, comanche79p said:

It was listed as new but after I called it turns out to be a Cummins reman.

Still should be a decent turbo for the money.