So I have read a lot about air filters, including the BHAF info.

One thing I find stands out is the paper element aspect in the BHAF article.

I am curious if this is just an anti oil filter thing or if someone has experience with the AEM filters not being good either.

 

I have heard a lot of good things about the dry flow washable filters.

 

I am up between spending $79 once for a dry flow reusable filter and $45 for a paper filter.

 

The AEM filter I would choose is an oval 9" long x 10.5" wide x 8" across with a 4" ID inlet.

These dimensions yeild the greatest surface are of all the AEM filters with the correct inlet.

 

Compairable surface area to the 8.5"W x 12.4"L paper alternative BHAF.

 

I like the thought of saving money on filters over time.

Heck wash it once and reuse it and it has more than paid for itself.

Especially when the Napa 6637 runs $64 dollars here.

 

The issue with the common oil filters and these trucks is the turbo and oil dirt buildup.

This eventually gets into the turbo and wears it down like sand paper.

 

So, why should I, or why shouldn't I get an AEM and go with paper filter elements?

 

Thank you for a conscious discussion.

Edited December 3, 201410 yr by eddielee

Well... Personally I'm not impressed with washable filters at all. Most all washable filters out of the box are good right out of the box. Now how many washes can you wash the media before it breaks down to a dangerous point for the engine? 1, 2, 5, 10, 20... ??? None of the manufactures specify when you should toss it out. Now with the Paper BHAF I typically see 100,000 miles of service per filter and never have to wash it. This can be proved by the cleanliness of the turbo during the service period of the filter you chose. Another trick is to spray the intake tube with WD40 and inspect often and see if any dust is collected if so then the filter has failed.

AFE dry elements are awesome especially with the outerware to keep the big chunks out of the pleats, AEM is junk, buddy just dusted an engine on an 03 cummins earlier this year running a washable AEM filter system.

Thank you both for your quick responses. I found them insightful and they definitely answered my questions.

With 100,000 mi per filter paper is not such a bad choice.

If by chance someone wants to run a dry reusable filter the AFE would be a better quality filter.

Simple and straight to the point. I would definitely prefer not to toast an engine because I want to save a few dollars.

I will look into the cost of an AFE filter before making my decision. I don't want to be a guinea pig or do anything dumb.

Again thank you for your assistance and the knowledge you have shared.

I am another one that runs a paper BHAF. I have owned my thruck for over thirteen YEARS and have put a total of two BHAF on it. One when I got it and one a couple of years ago. Keep in mind that this is over a mileage of 156,000 miles. The only reason I put the secong=d filter on is the first one was in place for over 10 years but it never did move the filter minder. $50 for a new filter was quite cheap at $5 per year.

BHAF= Simple, durable, cost effective, readily available locally, and proven for years.

rlane,

I would agree with you, however, it seems as if I must order either filter that I want to use as a BHAF here in Asheville, NC.

Unless I want to spend $80 on one. That is part of the reason that I was thinking of going dryflow washable.

At 100,000 miles per filter though it seems as if it might be the best choice.

 

 

It does make sense that the AEM are no good anymore due to the fact that K&N bought them out.

They are made in USA and that is a selling point, however, if they are no good then they are not worth it.

Eddielee, even at $80 the paper BHAF is still inexpensive. If you drive 12,500 miles per year that still only comes out to $10 per year.

Ok. Would you buy a washable oil filter? Why?

Try a big truck shop & you may get a better price.

I personally do not thing a BHAF can be beat.

 

Ed

At the moment it is the case that $80 is a lot to come up with, having recently moved.

I can get a dryflow cheaper.

if I only clean it once, I can go 200,000 miles due to the fact that it is the same size, "maybe."

 

I can get a paper filter for a couple bucks less over the internet.

 

But if I must order a filter my next thought was why not get a reusable filter.

Which is what lead me to start this thread.

 

The answers I have read give me the thought that even getting an AEM filter and treating it the same as a disposable filter,

I can get the same size or larger filter and get the same miles.

 

Now the question is does the Afe actually have better flow?

 

Maybe I should try it, Still not sure...

 

I was just trying to find a filter efficiency for the paper filters and compare it to the 92.5% efficiency stated by Afe.

 

Then maybe that is the flow increase, The % efficiency directly translates to how easily the air flows through the filter as well.

 

So This is the point of the BHAF, to increase the surface space of the filter to allow easier air flow into the engine at the greater filter resistance per inch.

Ultimately, at some point you reach the point of peak performance where the larger filter having a greater efficiency, more restrctive air flow,

still gives as much or more air as a smaller performance filter with a lower efficiency allowing more flow through the smaller surface area.

 

The greater the efficiency, the greater the resistance, the better the clean...

At the moment it is the case that $80 is a lot to come up with, having recently moved.

I can get a dryflow cheaper.

if I only clean it once, I can go 200,000 miles due to the fact that it is the same size, "maybe."

I can get a paper filter for a couple bucks less over the internet.

But if I must order a filter my next thought was why not get a reusable filter.

Which is what lead me to start this thread.

The answers I have read give me the thought that even getting an AEM filter and treating it the same as a disposable filter,

I can get the same size or larger filter and get the same miles.

Now the question is does the Afe actually have better flow?

Maybe I should try it, Still not sure...

I was just trying to find a filter efficiency for the paper filters and compare it to the 92.5% efficiency stated by Afe.

Then maybe that is the flow increase, The % efficiency directly translates to how easily the air flows through the filter as well.

So This is the point of the BHAF, to increase the surface space of the filter to allow easier air flow into the engine at the greater filter resistance per inch.

Ultimately, at some point you reach the point of peak performance where the larger filter having a greater efficiency, more restrctive air flow,

still gives as much or more air as a smaller performance filter with a lower efficiency allowing more flow through the smaller surface area.

The greater the efficiency, the greater the resistance, the better the clean...

Lets say the filter minder is measured in inches of water column. If you ever do this test you understand the restriction level.

 

No that said the paper BHAF never will move the filter minder with engines all the way up to 600 HP that I know of. So the BHAF restriction is very very small if anything.

Now you are getting way technical. This is the same debate you see about oil. Sure there are cases where engines get dusted due to poor quality filters. But honestly if you use a quality filter of either design you probably will never tell the difference either way. How many engine failures would have been prevented by using a 92% efficient filter vs. a 90% efficient filter?

So the Donaldson  B085011 says 99.9% efficiency on the spec sheet with flows of 280 to 470 CFM.

As listed on their website:

https://dynamic.donaldson.com/WebStore/search/item_detail.html?item=14043

 

This makes it appear like paper filters actually have higher efficiencies, however, this says little about other manufacturers filters for sure.

How does $44.99 sound? http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm

$57.22 on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Wix-42790-Air-Filter-Pack/product-reviews/B000CSD39A

$45.00 http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/bhaf-replacement-high-flow-air-filter-94-02-dodge-5.9l-cummins.html

Those prices are a fair amount cheaper than $80. What I am trying to say is shop around and you can find some pretty decent deals!

So the Donaldson  B085011 says 99.9% efficiency on the spec sheet with flows of 280 to 470 CFM.

As listed on their website:

https://dynamic.donaldson.com/WebStore/search/item_detail.html?item=14043

 

This makes it appear like paper filters actually have higher efficiencies, however, this says little about other manufacturers filters for sure.

Reading your signature, I noticed I started out with basically the same truck that you have. I'm not saying that the air filter is not important because it is. But I would be more concerned about your fuel pressure due to the stock lift pump and your fuel filtration at this point. Low fuel pressure is an absolute killer on these trucks and with the quality of diesel fuel these days I don't have to tell you how important it is to use good fuel filters. I started just like you not very long ago as a newbie to Dodge. After a lot of questions and a lot of good information from these guys the first thing I did was make my fuel system right. Have you checked your fuel pressure with a mechanical guage at wide open throttle under load down the road? Thats the first place to start. Not trying to change the subject but the best air filter in the world is not going to save your injection pump. A stock rebuild is over 1,000 dollars and its a well known fact that the stock lift pump is the weakest link on this engine. Ask anyone on here. Just something to think about.

All comes down to driving conditions as far as how long a paper BHAF will last. I drive 20K miles of dusty dirty gravel roads a year on My DDer and I replace the factory air filters twice a year and they are usually full. Even when I drove my 02 as a DDer with the AFE dry element with outer ware I had to clean it twice a year at minimum due to excessive dirt and fine dust that gets past the outer cover.

On a pavement queen I can see them going a long time as some are saying. Just because a filter minder isn't moving doesn't mean the paper isn't deteriorating over time with weather humidity and wetness ect.

Call mine a pavement queen if you want, after all it is a two wheel drive, but I hae nebver seen any trace of moisture on hte filr=ter with no outer wears.

I don't know. Pavement queen, dirt queen, filter minder, no filter minder. I don't think too much about any of that. I do my regular service and that includes loosening one clamp, removing a hose, and inspecting my turbo. That gives me the best indicator of how my air filter is doing.

I don't know. Pavement queen, dirt queen, filter minder, no filter minder. I don't think too much about any of that. I do my regular service and that includes loosening one clamp, removing a hose, and inspecting my turbo. That gives me the best indicator of how my air filter is doing.

 

This is all good too but oil analysis is the best as you can have many other places along the intake system that will allow dirt entry into the engine other than pre-turbo.

At the Mine I work at we use an ultrasonic leak detector with a sound generator inside the intake system of engines to find intake system leaks that can never be found any other way when we get bad UOA results back and can't find any obvious places for dirt entry.