Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
For the second time in three years I believe my ECU is headed south. A few weeks ago the truck didn't want to start. I checked the grid heater and had more than the recommended resistance between the terminals. I had power to the relays with the wait to start light just no power coming out. Fusible links are good.
Now the problem as I understand it is I have 12 volts to the relays with the wait to start light on. When the wait light goes out, I should have zero volts to the relays. I have seven. If I have more than zero it sould be the ECU according to the service manual. I now have IAT sensor voltage codes, fuel calibration error codes, etc.
Now the million dollar question. I bought a used ECU the last time and blew in a program with the smarty. I would like something to last longer than a couple of years. I know people have said to stay away from a re-manfactored ECU. Dodge tells me they only sell a reman ECU's now, nothing new. They go for the tune of $1400.00 not programmed. I have heard ECU's going south after a short time from Dodge. What is the difference between a Dodge re-man and a $800.00 model from a company off the net? I know to stay away from a Cardone. Also, what about these companies like Klien Bottle Computer who give you a lifetime warentee if they rebuild your ECU?
Anyone care to weigh in?