This morning I drove the truck to take my son to school and then run a few errands. Transmission shifted normally, truck ran fine, nothing out of the ordinary. This evening I went to pick him up from school and once I hit the road it wouldn't shift out of second gear, not even manually. I get to the school, check fluid, its full and was just changed in October when I installed the new torque converter. I shut the truck off, started it back up, and it shifted fine for about a half mile then it started hanging in second again. I pulled up to a stop light and it started jerking and bucking, so I threw it in neutral. I made it to my driveway in second gear then trying to get up the hill it wouldn't engage in any gear. I shut it off, started it back and it engaged normally so I pulled in the car port. I worked it in and out of gear a few times then it started bucking again, so again I shut it off, started it and it was the same scenario. It could be coincidence but it seems like it shifts at first while the grid heaters are running and the alternator is low but once the alternator gets up to normal it starts acting up.  Is it possible for alternator a/c noise to cause it to act this bad? I didn't have time to check tonight but was looking for some suggestions. Another thing is that the temperature is way below normal here. 7 degrees this morning with below 0 wind chill. I know most of you guys will laugh but thats cold for NC.

Temp shouldn't matter.  

 

I would be concerned of the alternator. You can get the alternator bench tested and connect a voltmeter up to the battery when running and look for any AC power.  You could also disconnect the alternator... Can't recall if it is a fuse pull or not... I pulled the field wire last time I tested it, and run it on battery power for a quick hop around the block.  

Edited January 9, 201510 yr by CSM

Sounds like a solenoid valve sticking.

Sounds like a solenoid valve sticking.

Is there any way to test it other than with the DRB? I replaced it in May with the upgraded Borg Warner version.

Edited January 9, 201510 yr by rlane547

So here is where I'm at today:

Alternator checks out fine.

Fluid level is perfect. No external leaks anywhere.

All electrical plugs checked and in good condition.

Shifter linkage is correct and working properly.

Fluid is clean. No metal on drain plug. No aeration of fluid.

 

At first startup it engages in all gears, then the longer it runs the longer it takes to engage until it won't engage at all. What is normal line pressure on the 47re?

Ok, so checked pressures today. Line pressure with truck in drive at idle is= 50psi at startup and drops while truck is running.  Governor pressure= 60 at startup then drops to 30.  Is this indicative of solenoid sticking?

Maybe pump is going out, it would make since gets warmer and clearances get bigger pressure drops, just guessing.

Maybe pump is going out, it would make since gets warmer and clearances get bigger pressure drops, just guessing.

I'm leaning towards pump too. It stinks though because two months ago when I did the torque converter, I replaced the pump bushing, gasket, and o-ring. I inspected the pump and it was in good shape. I guess stranger things have happened.

I'm leaning towards pump too. It stinks though because two months ago when I did the torque converter, I replaced the pump bushing, gasket, and o-ring. I inspected the pump and it was in good shape. I guess stranger things have happened.

Wait for more replys as it might be a simple fix. But yea sit happens.

Thanks for the help guys but I don't think it matters now. I pulled the pan and let it drain overnight. There are very finely ground particles everywhere. Time for a new transmission.

Thanks for the help guys but I don't think it matters now. I pulled the pan and let it drain overnight. There are very finely ground particles everywhere. Time for a new transmission.

OOOoohhhhhhh....... NOT COOL. WHat are your plans for the truck? Power in the future, towing, racing........ The more you figure out now the easier it is to decide what is needed to make it live longer.

OOOoohhhhhhh....... NOT COOL. WHat are your plans for the truck? Power in the future, towing, racing........ The more you figure out now the easier it is to decide what is needed to make it live longer.

Not cool at all, especially right now. Guess there's not a good time for these things anyway.  As far as plans. I plan on going with RV275 injectors in the future and that is about it power wise. I'm pretty happy with where it is right now. I tow my travel trailer which is roughly 9000lbs regularly so that is on the list. Revmax is right here in my back door. I was really happy with their torque converter so I think I will buy a built tranny from them. I believe their Signature Series should work well for me. That will save me the core charge since I can pull it out and take it with me when I pick the new one up. It sounds easy but I have to come up with the money first. Other plans are exhaust brake and some interior and exterior cosmetics that I would like to take care of.

Not a lot to go bad inside the pump on a 47RE, unless the converter was not lined up properly when it was changed.

Just an FYI, a reman pump, new front steels and frictions, along with labor was about $950 for me. I wound up sending the converter back to Goerends to get the hub repaired and that was another $250

Well, transmission is paid for and should be ready Thursday. I have to find someone that will let me rent or borrow a jack, then hopefully I'll be back on the road this weekend.

So, what did you have done? Repair what's wrong or complete end to end rebuild?

Buying a built unit. Triple disc t/c, performance valve body, the works. Tired of fooling with it. Its the only part of the truck that has given me problems.

Ah, I see. What color is the paint on the transmission? Hopefully not purple.

No purple. I went with Revmax. They are local and I like dealing with them. Just not anyone I know of around here I would trust with a rebuild. Heard lots of horror stories. Hopefully I'll be back on the road this weekend.

Yea, you should be back on the road this weekend. Just remember to not put all the fluid in before you start the truck. It will pour fluid out the vent if you do!

Yea, you should be back on the road this weekend. Just remember to not put all the fluid in before you start the truck. It will pour fluid out the vent if you do!

MnTom, that sounds like first hand knowledge. Ha ha. There's nothing like experience. Over the years I've learned many lessons while cleaning up my messes.