Does anyone have the Napa New Manufactured (not Rebuilt) starter motor, that is made in China?

 

Maybe the rebuilts are china too , I dont know. Maybe my original was china too ... Anyone know?

 

Checked a couple parts stores for reference and they said what they sell is china made too

 

 

Edited March 18, 201510 yr by GSP7

I don't know but if it is like the rest of the crap they make it won't last. I think Mike has a wright up on rebuilding starters which would be very useful.

There is a write up for the starter contacts.

 

As for doing starter brushes LarryB has a full rebuild kit for cheap.

My 10 year old Napa rebuilt doesnt seem to be cranking as fast as it should with two brand new batteries, maybe bad bushings or armature . Called Napa and the have a Amperage draw tester for starters. I get a new or rebuilt free from napa with lifetime warranty. I might go with the rebuilt again

 

I bought some Mil Battery terminals from Larry B and they were cheap knock off junk copies not Mil spec, got my money back and bought the real Mil Spec Battery Terminals from Napa

 

Larry B was good about it, Thanked me for bringing it to his attention, Said he had ordered 1000 from a new distributor and hadnt inspected them

Edited March 19, 201510 yr by GSP7

In 08 @55,000 mi the starter went out and I replaced it with a Napa rebuilt, life time warranty $189. Fast forward 2014 @ 81,000 mi starter goes out and Nappa gives me another one. My local alternator/starter rebuilder  was driven out of business in the late 90s by the cheap Chines parts. All the cores get sent to China and rebuilt to some company's specification, Nappa, O'reilly's, ect. The Chines rebuilder may or may not meet those specifications. The only way to know short of doing your own quality control is to put it on and see how it goes. 

 

Today I replaced a cam belt on a Toyota Highlander. When I went to make the final drive belt adjustments after running the engine for less than 5 min. I touched the alternator and all most burned myself. The alternator has been replaced in the last month but was overheating. The out side temp of the alternator went up to 255°. The Chines junk will get replaced tomorrow by probably more Chines junk.    

I would spend the money and rebuild it yourself. I have given up on all reman junk, had too many repeat failures with the final straw being a frozen caliper that left me on the side of the road 200 miles from home. This was a NAPA reman, I went through 3 in a year. I've had similar experiences with their altenators and starters. No more for me. If I can't rebuild it myself I'll go buy new whether its aftermarket or OEM.

As for your question, I doubt they will pony up and give you a new starter. Your probably stuck with their reman junk. I would tear yours apart and buy the necessary parts to make it right from Larry's. I've used his parts and they are OEM quality.

I've still got my OEM Starter after 242k miles later. One set of contacts that's it.

As in the other post, I went to Napa and got a free warranty rebuilt one. Old one was 10 year old Napa life time warranty, They tested it and it was drawing too much amps Bad

 

Wish I would have kept the original one.

 

What would cause high amp draw and dragging starter ?  Only simple thing I would think, just bad bearing bushings. Any other intuitive reasons for high amp draw and dragging slow stater

 

Do you all think these Napa rebuilt in mexico starters are Denso cores? I was going to keep my old one as a spare to rebuild and just pay Napa the core charge but they since it was a free warranty exchange they said they would have to charge me full $190 price if I kept it

Edited March 20, 201510 yr by GSP7

The only thing I can think of is one brush isn't making proper contact so 2 of the 4 bushes are working so only half the motor is pulling so it requires more amperage to turn the engine over.

I talked to Larry B about starters. He said Drawing to many amps is caused by the Armature wrap wires burnt melted together most likely

 

To tell id a Denso ,  it will have a foil sticker that has the Chrysler or Denso name on it.

 

I wish I would have kept my original starter. But back then I didnt know about these chinese ones floating around. Who knows what you get when you get a rebuilt a old denso core or a china

 

Larry says the wire raps on the armature on the china starters arent even solid copper but copper coated steel

 

Next time I will have to spend the $$ and just get a new Denso that will last 100k+ miles

You dont have to buy new, Larry sells armatures, bearings, plunger, brushes, essentially everything you need to build a quality starter. If I had a reman starter that crapped out on me I'd rebuild it with his parts over cashing it in for another reman, even if it was under warranty and free. Its worth the peace of mind to me knowing what I've got. It seems like they go at the worst times, either that -30 morning when you really need it or when your 500 miles from home and blocking up the entire fuel island with your truck and trailer.

i used larrys rebuild kit and mine still runs strong. i only had to replace the contacts and i still have the brush assembly to use new

I've still got my OEM Starter after 242k miles later. One set of contacts that's it.

 

 

221k on my '04.5..................OEM starter also.

 

My new "remanufactured" alternator, for my '04.5 was made in Mexico.

Starter mayhem

I had the slow starter turning symptoms, so I bought a brush kit from Larry B's.  My solenoid post was loose and it did not have the backing nut so the wires were loose.  When I tried to remove the 8 mm nut, it broke the internal wires to the solenoid.  Does anyone know if Larry B sells this, or how I could repair the internal wires?

Otherwise, I have to buy the NAPA rebuilt starter, as mentioned above.

Happy New Year!  .

 

 

Edited January 1, 20169 yr by GSX455

Try epoxying the terminal to the housing and solder the wire to the terminal. 

IBMobile is on the right path.

The only thing is I don't see any way to keep it from happening. I seen another do close to this and typically its because the installer over tighten the nut.

I'd take a short piece of solid 16-18 awg wire and solder that to the broken wire end, then slip a section of heat shrink tubing over it.  next clean the area around the hole so the epoxy has a nice surface to bound to.  Epoxy the post to the starter housing, let harden, use an epoxy that is for both plastic and metal, 'J B WELD'.  Now solder the wire to the bottom of the post. Done,  and what do you have to lose but a little time and may save some money.    

Take a close look at the starter contacts. Do they look a little worn out?

2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Try epoxying the terminal to the housing and solder the wire to the terminal. 

Thanks IBMobile, just use JB weld or should I try high temperature epoxy?   If all else fails, I could use a bolt and just epoxy it in place to make it insulating from the starter housing.   The wires are too short to reach the terminal,

Thanks,

GSX455

.

 

 

1: The temp at the starter shouldn't get over 200° so any good epoxy should work. The area has to be clean for it to bond and have it harden for the full cure time. When tightening nut on the stud  just snug should do it or you run the risk of breaking the stud loose again.

2:  A bolt with a rubber vacuum hose over it would work as a stud with insulator epoxied in to place.

 

3 hours ago, IBMobile said:

I'd take a short piece of solid 16-18 awg wire and solder that to the broken wire end, then slip a section of heat shrink tubing over it.  

 3: AS for the short wire problem see above.

This is what you want, no need wasting time, or energy.

 

http://www.fostertruck.com/replacement-trigger-stud-for-89-02-dodge-denso-starter.html

Edited January 2, 20169 yr by eddielee

Thanks, eddielee, I looked for this under Larry B's site, and I guess it's all in the wording, trigger stud.  Do you know if they stock the wires too?