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Hey gang been a while .... so busy lately....

Started today .... I've had ABS light for a while .... finally got around to changing both wheel hubs out a few weeks back .... no difference. Rear sensor seems clean.

today speedo stopped ......

How to track down ;)

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  • Author

New used pump arrived today will try and get her on this weekend

  • Author

Well the new pump and abs controller in ..... and this is what I get .....

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/fakdaddy/media/truck/20150419_112842.mp4.html

Since this came off an 01 and my truck is an 2000 I pull the abs controller off (breaking a other bolt off in process being as careful as I could with hand star bit driver) .... put in my new rebuilt factory original ..... and nothing .... doesn't move a peep .... brake light also goes on which the 2001 at least turned off ....

Guess a $120 dealer scan now

  • Author

ANy chance the 00 factory unit is shot and the 01 unit needs a reflash or isn't compatible ?

The dodge dealer couldn't reflash the used unit they tried to install on mine the other week. The had to order a brand new control module to vin code it properly. I forget the reasoning behind it, something about not clearing it before they installed it...

  • Owner

Means ? Generally ?

 

Means the data from the ABS computer is being lost or erred while traveling from the ABS computer to the instrument cluster.

 

ANy chance the 00 factory unit is shot and the 01 unit needs a reflash or isn't compatible ?

 

All ABS modules should be flashed for tire size for speedometer calibration. But in your case withe the bouncing I'm really puzzled not knowing is it the speed sensor or wiring before the ABS. Or is it the ABS communication on the CCD network that is screwed up. Either way you going to need a dealer to look at the sensor and ABS module to be sure. As for the communication the dealer should be able check that with the DRBIII tool.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

So finally managed to get it to dodge dealer with ABS. Abbreviated Conversation snippets was something like this.

 

Dealer "Can you leave it with us till tomorrow"

Me No. I ran last week and was told to bring it here at 8.30am would be ok. No way to get to work or get back easily.

 

Dealer "Could be a wonky rear diff. Could be vacuum. Could be anything"

Me "ok. But wouldn't scanner show that. help isolate."

 

Dealer "I dont really know diesels - can you bring it back"

Me "Sure ... but any ideas on what else to check"

Dealer "No. You can try running new wires"

 

Me "I put an ABS module from a 2001 truck and the brake light went off and teh speedo started to work - just erratic".

Dealer "You cant do that. They 'learn' from the truck they came from. You cant reflash either."

 

so ..... 1 week of waiting ...... no scan ...... not sure on where to take it ........ smh

 

/rant

Bull crap.

The trained techs have all retired.

I have found two options. One... Go through several dealers looking for one that sells a lot of diesels. Then find their diesel guy, and politely and nicely ask to ask him some questions. Be a bro.

Two. Ask the dealer if they have any old retired diesel techs who do work on the side.

I worry whenot the most difficult technical terms the tech uses are words like "wonky."

Edited by CSM

I have said it many time and will again, Flat rate shops absolutely hate to troubleshoot things complicated, hard to make money by beating the flat rate time tables with these types of issues, just throw parts at it until the issue or the customer goes away hopefully and charge for parts and flat rate time for said component swap.

  • Staff

I get called into the Volvo dealer to do diagnostic on old cars from time to time. The techs don't have a clue of what's going on. If they can't plug it in and get a read out then forget about it, it will be a wag.

I get called into the Volvo dealer to do diagnostic on old cars from time to time. The techs don't have a clue of what's going on. If they can't plug it in and get a read out then forget about it, it will be a wag.

Even if they do hook up a puter then you get a swag. "Scientific wild a$$ guess". :cookoo:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

So had it hooked up to a SNAPON solus ......... and basically it said

 

25 No signal drivers side sensor ABS

26 No signal passanger side sensor ABS

27 Intermittenet signal rear sensor ABS

28 No signal rear sensor ABS

 

SO to me it looks like the fact no other codes in PCM or for ABS ... and with the fact that adding a junk ABS module gives me some functionality back that my ABS is still hosed after rebuild.

 

Im thinking that maybe the junk ABS that somewhat worked was for a truck with different gear ratio *shrug* - as these are VIN specific. So maybe thats why it was all over the place.

 

So right now all I can think to do is send it to a different company...... and try and find a used 2000 truck with 3.53 gears ABS.

  • Author

Alternator noise? Did you have the ABS unit flashed? Even though you p-pumped the truck you still got other electronics to deal with and protect.

I think alternator noise would be a stretch to take out all sensors ....... unless it damaged the PCM.

ABS unit was not reflashed - it was my original. 

 

I'm grabbing another ABS module used ...... to see if there are any different results with that ......... as well as sending my OEM back the rebuild company with further information about all sensors no signal.

  • Owner

PCM has nothing to do with it. ABS and the Gauge Cluster. AC noise doesn't bother the sensors but it fries the computers like ABS computer or maybe the gauge cluster. But there is the cluster test to check for errors. Hold the trip down turn the key to ON and the CHEC shows in the odometer release the trip pin. This goes back to the same problem of guys replacing VP44's one after another with electronic failures. It stems from a bad alternator cooking the electronics.

 

As for speed signals. The ABS module reads the rear sensor and then transmits the data of CCD netowrk for any device to use. As for speed the PCM does use the speed for cruise control but has no bearing on the cluster. Which the cluster is a stand alone computer than listens for data on its own.

 

I just had a guy call about VP44 that lasted barely 9 months and fried. Then come to find out he's got the tin foil leads, modified APPS grounds, noise filter, etc. I told him to ditch all the junk and then test it out again sure enough the alternator was nearly 0.1 volt AC. Also the torque converter lock/unlock problem returned. So, just because of band-aid for the lock up issues he's now eating the VP44's which is now going to cost him most likely because it wire tapped.

 

So moral is... Make sure you go clean power to your electronics and they will have a long and happy life. Just like buying a quality surge protector for your PC at home.