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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/21/2012 in all areas
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Torque Converter Lock / Unlock Issues
OK! Problem solved! Yippee!!! Took the recently purchased Alternator back to O'Reilly's where I got it from, had them test it on their tester. They told me they run the test 3 times and if they get a PASS all three times, its a good alternator. When I asked about measuring AC Voltage, they looked dumbfounded, so I asked them if I could hook my multi-meter up to the alternator while they tested? They agreed! So now this alternator is reading .35 Volts AC as the first test PASS'S, they run the second test and we get a FAIL, the guy gives me a funny look, checks his wires and runs the third test and we get another FAIL. So the guy now rells me guess we have a bad alternator but they don't have another one on the shelf and I will need to wait till tomorrow to bring one in from the other store. I say, I'm OK with that, but that I've learned my lesson and we are going to have to test the next alternator as well before I leave the store with it. The next morning (yesterday) they call me and let me know the alternator is in and I can come down and pick it up. We do the test like before, and this time we get a PASS, PASS, PASS, however my multi-meter is reading 0.3 Volts AC, and then I also notice that on their machine there is a box at the top that says Diodes and across from that box on the screen says N/A. So I ask the guy about it and he says their machine has no way of testing the diodes, it only test for overall condition of the alternator. Unhappy with what I'm hearing and looking at, I request my money back which they had no problem with at all, however the core I earlier took in was no longer in the store so the gave me cash in the amount of $215.00 (their core charge on that alternator $36.00 along with the full purchace price of $179.00.) By this time I have no core, only to find out all the other auto parts stores around town are charging a $70 - $80 core charge for this alterrnator, and a lot of the places have no tester. Starting to get a bit frustrated, I decided to quit messing around and go to the most reliable place in town I know of, a small family owned auto electric and mechanical shop (Auto Electric, Anchorage, Alaska). I was hoping that maybe they had heard of this isuue I am having with the TCL and get fixed up with a good alternator. They rebuild all kinds of auto electrical parts right there in house as well a run a full service auto mechanic shop. Well,,,,I explained my problem to them and showed them a printed copy of the troubleshooting procedure I got from the Mopa1973Man website, to which they said...never heard of this before. However these guys are real pro's and they didn't blow me off. They took my concerns seriously, brought two techs in out of the shop to talk with me about this, as I explainded to them the 0.1 Volt AC upper limit thing. They genuinly got concerned and were pulling down alternators, checking them on the bench and checking outputs at vehicles in the shop. In all, I was in there for about two hours while they tested and discussed and in the end the shop found me a NEW alternator and gave me a heck of a deal @ $239.00 w/no core charge. The NEW alternator was putting out 0.22 Volts AC on their alternator bench vise, and that concerned me cause I was looking for something under 0.1 VAC. However in further discussion, the techs I was working with concluded, (and BTW they turned out to be right), that the test machine itself was putting off AC Noise and that the Fluke Meter was picking up that AC Noise during the test, and that since the Voltage Regulator is on either the PCM or ECM, the only way to accuratly read out the AC output on this alternator was to put it on the vehicle and measure it at that time. So,,,I took the alternator home, hooked it all up, and WALLA... measured at the battries -0.01 Volts AC @idle, and 0.00 Volts AC @2000 RPM. Feeling pretty good at this point I take it for a test drive. Runs and shifts perfectly. NO MORE PROBLEMS!!! Cory, I believe he's the manger or maybe owner, at Auto Electric said though he's heard and dealt with a lot of Dodge Cummins issues like this before, had never heard of this shifting problem being linked to + 0.10 VAC output on the alternator. He asked me to check back in with him to let him know how all this worked out. I will do that on Monday, as well as express my thanks for all the personal attention, efforts and concerns Auto Electric gave to me to adress my problem. In the meantime, my utmost gratitude to Mopar1973Man for sharing your knoweledge and wisdom on this issue. I had tried all the bandaid tricks only to have them each work for anywhere to a couple hours to a couple days or so and then reappear. I believe what was happening was that as I fixed a ground or foiled a wire, it masked the problem just long enough for the diodes on the alternator to get a little worse and then BOOM, the problem is back! Very good information Mopar1973Man!!! Happy Holidays!!!2 points
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Honda 420 ATV
1 pointIf your talking about removing the cv joints from the differential, they are held in by a snap ring. Once you have the outer part of the joint removed from the hub, they should pop out with a good tug (in a perfect world of course). If its been a long time since theyve been apart, they are probably rusted in there because they are not lubricated by the gear oil like youd think they should be. Ive used a big slide hammer with a 3 jaw adapter and used a little elbow grease to get em out.1 point
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Air Dog Raptor 100 problem
1 pointStock pickup and steel fuel lines are too restrictive need to consider upgrading all of it to 1/2" plumbing. I don't think so yet. I would finish up the upgrade with good 1/2" lines and it should settle down more. I would ditch the stock pickup assembly too and upgrade to 1/2" draw straw as well. If there is any quick connectors I would chop them out and upgrade to Push Loc's and JIC fittings.1 point
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Diehard Platinum on sale now for $175 each
Just wanted to let you guys know that the Diehard Platinum batteries are on sale at SEARS for $175 each right now. The Platinums are an AGM battery made by Oddyssey in the USA, rebranded for Sears. They are an EXCELLENT battery with a 48 month replacement and 100 month prorated warranty. 930 CCA, 130 min reserve capacity. They even have a carry handle, which is a good thing cause they are HEAVY!!!! Here is a link to the P2/ Group 65 for 3rd gen trucks-- http://www.sears.com/shc/s/ProductDi...atalogId=12605 FYI--The sale on these batteries only normally lasts 12 to 24 hours. PS--Someone on another forum also found a coupon code "csosave5" that might be good for another 5% on online orders with in store pick-up.1 point
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Torque Converter Lock / Unlock Issues
I don't know too much about electrical. Couldn't a guy take a portable radio, while the trucks idling and point the antenna at different areas under the hood to find the source of the RF noise ? I don't really know but wherever the loudest static comes from would be a clue?This is quite possibly the worst suggestion on the forum ever:cookoo:1 point