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Report: Took My alternator off and to a local Alt/Starter rebuild shop. To double check it for bad diodes. My alternator bench tested OK . He then took the back off and to check the diodes individually with a meter, and I had "1" bad diode I was charging Volts: D.C. 14.30 and My A.C. was .055+/- Moparmans video, he checked Volts at: DC 14.25, AC .005-.015 IIRC The Alternator Shop (Jason) Ordered a new Rectifier/diode pack about $25 and Im putting in new brushes $9.00 as long as I had it apart. The above numbers are a reference to go by . My Alternating Voltage Test A.C. .055+/- I thought was ok , But I did actually have 1 bad diode. There are 8 diodes on the diode pack I will recheck my AC volt reading with 'New/Good Diode Reference' when reinstalled the Alt. with its new diode pack Rick .

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YUCK!! It's a pressure box, and those aren't looked upon very kindly much anymore. Initially they were an easy way to make power, but they are much harder on injectors and due to that their popularity has decreased. To completely rule it out I would disconnect the batteries, remove the Egde at every connection, reconnect OEM sensors, then reconnect the batteries. Drive it for a few heat cycles and see where you are at. Have you done the key on-off trick the check for codes that way?

Update: Never got anywhere before I went on Vacation and put 1765 miles on my truck while pulling. When I returned, I was hoping a new scan would show an all clear, that's a lot of miles form the system to clear itself. Instead, I finally got something to work with. Note: The Programmer is still in, it is the Edge EZD1000C Stored Codes: None Pending codes: P0514 (device says: "Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance") Freeze Frames: DTCFRZF P0483 (device says: "DTCFRZF Menu", DTC that caused required Freeze Frame data storage) DTC Guide says: Faulty Intake air temperature sensor Faulty Battery temperature sensor Vehicle has recently used a block heater (this is not true, but it was running the fuel heater when the scanner was running)