Mopar1973Man

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Do yourself a favor DO NOT buy a Cummins water pump. Sadly, there are too many people who think Cummins is the best supplier, but actually, they are not updating part design for improvement, but finding a cheaper way to produce the product and charge you Cummins prices. I've dealt with NAPA parts for over 20 years with a low failure rate vs Cummins water pumps and thermostats.

Yeah that's not good. I'm going to say your right on. Getting the truck hot most likely got that head to curl some and just heat and pressure.

Freaking awesome! I've been watching you build that truck for YEARS! I'm dying to see it completed. So freaking close...!!!!

I'm set for 18 to 19 PSI lift pump pressure on Beast for over 400k miles no problems. The VP44 shuts off its most likely the PSG unit died on top of the VP44. Yes it is possible to have a injection pump that has ZERO codes but be brain dead and will not start. Don't let thart little module blow you away. It only controls timing (advancement or retard) then the fuel pin to pull it out to start the enginee and control the fuel amount. There is a bit of diagnostic code in there to produce error codes. There is only the timing solenoid valve to move the timing. Then the solenoid to control the fuel pin.

Basically when you get 300k miles on your Cummins engine typically they develope a condition called head curl. The ends of the head start to lift. This is why the head studs. Now about 300k miles you notice oil usage and that is caused by valve guides allow the valves to wobble which in turn wears the valve stem seals. Drive pressure gauge really doesn't need to be in the cab per se if you can design and test the first time drive pressures shouldn't really change unless other things change. (injectors, tuning, etc). I stayed down around 500 HP for a few reasons. One not willing to give up my exhaust brake yet. Smaller turbos spool faster than larger turbos. Remember the lighter the rotational mass (turbo wheel, tires, driveline, flywheel, Etc.) ther faster it will accelerate. To this day I hunt for oversize tire truck with a lift kit and whip them in a street race because of all the rotational mass. Just food for thought.

Im dying to see the paint job. Im going to be jealous seeing that pretty modified truck. Going to be a sight. 😎

That's good thing. Strange not seeing it wet like ive seen in the past with bad turbos that are either side wet with oil. Get some more miles on that. Go work that Cummins it will thank you.

If you stay to the 3200 redline then you should be safe. 12V engines only had 45 pound valve spring IIRC. 24V valve train is pretty solid 60 pound springs but I would have the guides and seals done for sure. If you boost is still lower than your spring pound rating should be fine. The closer you get boost to the pound rating on the springs more chance of valve floating then remember your drive pressure vs turbo housing size. (Flow...)

Or the nozzle cracked. Then ive heard they can turn into a diesel powered torch pointed at the top of the piston. For the cost of the rebuild engine I'd rather change a wear item like injectors at 100k at the cost of 400 to 600 dollars vs. a engine rebuild. Remember that nozzle goes from dead cold to hot in a very short time being the nozzle living in the combustion chamber. Only lubricant is the fuel (2 cycle oil is bonus lube 128:1 ratio. Just heat cycles can eventually crack a nozzle. I've even seen new injectors nozzles crack in a short time. This is why a little warm up is nice but it still best to get rolling and keep your foot out of the throttle till 170°F coolant this will typically be about 140°F engine oil temperature at least on Beast. If your using cetane booster you might want to stop that. High cetane actually reduces BTU content of the fuel. Some products actually could soot up the nozzles makes for nasty spray patterns. Here is where 2 cycle oil shines it actually keeps the injectors cleaner. Ill dig up the photo. This is 85k miles on my stock injectors. You can clearly see the holes.

Myself I'm at about 500 HP with my mods. ARP 425 studs Stock HX35W (54/60/12) 150 HP injectors (popped at 320 bar) Quadzilla adrenaline with custom tune BHAF 4" muffled exhaust Diamond Eye Just remember more power is going to shorten the life of the engine. Even with my setup I run only level 3 of the Quad. Yeah I've gone to play wide open but could get hot. Several trick to push the power out. One of my previous tune could fry all 4 tires on dry pavement. Make sure your final ratio is near 3.73 after tires. Then don't run wide tires you'll lose traction easier. This is why I run 245/75 R16 tires. Lower rotational mass, easier to accelerate, better traction over wide face tires. Dually is even worse.

100k miles replace injectors. By 150k miles your pop pressure will be too low and adding timing. So my factory injectors after 150k miles popped as low as 260 bar which is like a 5 degree advancement of timing and since it was early injection it also affected idle being the ECM was at 0% load and idling at 850-875 RPM because of injector wear.

I've been working on improving the server's performance over the last few days. I've done some memory management with the Apache server and PHP compiler. The CLS issue should come to a close very, very soon. I've been testing the code every night to ensure it's working properly. The page shouldn't jump much at all now. I've got Redis Cache loaded up to see if I can gain a bit more speed or use less time to paint a webpage for members using mobile phones. I've gotta give it some time for the cache to load up with page information and start working. This takes time. Now between the Redis and the changes to the MySQL server memory settings I've managed to improve performance here and make it load faster for most of us desktop users. My lab data for testing mobile devices is actually slower than I like but it should be nearly a passing grade.

Are you going to rebuild your HX35 turbo or core it out?

I've been playing with Thor to see if I could fix the AirDog 150 to get closer to 15 PSI. I found a spring at my local hardware store, and it was way thicker, but after a bit of trimming work, I got the fuel pressure to settle at 22 to 25 PSI. Yeah, I know it's high, but I wanted to be sure the CP3 is loading fully and getting good, solid rail pressure. I'm struggling to understand the grid heater light, and it typically trips on deceleration. I'm doing more testing to figure out my issues. Today I've got to run back to McCall to return core calipers for my core money. Thor is going to do the task.

Yeah, I just got done doing brakes on Beast. Both rear brake calipers had rusted pistons that were so jammed that I couldn't seat them. @Tweety Bird was telling me just get it repaired, we need the trucks to function properly. I most likely got a little tear in the rubber boots, and the road salt finally ate the calipers up before the pads were even worn out on the passenger side. The driver's side rear pads were nearly gone due to the rusted pistons. In my position, without a shop, it makes it rather tough to get creative with rebuilding calipers. Yeah, part changer, but at least Beast is safer to drive.

The oem hose was blue silicone lined hose. Heater hose will get soft and gummy over time.

Yes. Anything to prevent oxidation from happening.

Heater hose will work for the drain to block connection.

Oil will burn off during running. This is why I mention looking after it sat for a night it will leave a wet trace on the valves stem as you look in each port. Intake is bit tricky but if you had a wifi bore scope you could look at each port see if the valve stems are wet with oil.

Sadly if it's not leaking on the ground it leaking internally and being burnt as fuel. Vacuum pump would leak on the ground Front / rear crank seal would leak on theme ground Tappet cover would leak on the ground. Valve cover would leak on the ground. Valve seals yup it would be burnt as fuel and only be seen after the engine sat all night and Valve stems would be wet with engine oil. Piston rings yup could burn the oil as fuel too but blow by would be noticed typically. There is one case here from @jlwelding that had a cracked piston that past blow by test. Only proper way to test is a compression test. Lower compression would point that out.

It's electronic based issue in my opinion. VP44 ECM ...but ECM would throw a code. VP44 has been known for problems without setting a code. Strange like it's skipping a cylinder like injector drop test on a DRBIII tool.

Some how you need to see the valve stems to see if oil is weeping past the valve seals. 350k on Beast If valve guides are bad the valves will rock and eat the seals off the valve. This will allow oil in during idling and low boost conditions.

I'm glad I marked the solution above for you. Seems you got it mailed in. Just adjust for steering center on the drag link.

That turbo looks fine. I would pull the manifold off and check the exhaust ports for oil.