Mopar1973Man

Very possible, I've seen several here locally and free a couple too. Kind of like a Kenworth with Cummins 6BT I worked on the owner wanted me to free the exhaust brake vane. Good luck it was so froze up because the previous owner never used it. There wasn't anything I could do to free the exhaust brake. Again you have to work all these components on a regular schedule other than that when it sits idle too long it just seizes up and then the fight is on.

Very possible... If both fuse 4 and 5 are good then the multi-function switch would be my next step.

Be aware if the wastegate is frozen be careful trying to free it up. Make sure to spray plenty of PB blaster, WD-40, or similar to get some lube down the shaft into the cast iron housing. Might even consider heating the cast body to expand the metal a bit and allow the spray lube to creep into the shaft more. Then carefully with a hammer tap a few strokes on the gate or arm and work it back and forth slowly. If its not moving just soak more lube and let it soak for time. Wastegate sticking only occurs when people drive so mellow that they never build enough boost to get the gate open at least once in awhile. Then the carbon and rust build up till it sticks, typically in the closed position. At least my two trucks see enough boost to open the wastegate at least once a week, yes I mat the throttle and let them eat once in awhile.

I was just called into the local Chevron station to aid in looking into a fuel leak on 4th Gen Cummins. The filter had been changed and later on it started leaking from the screw on lid. They pull it checked the o-ring (no damage) reinstalled the cap and no more leak...

I would just hold out if the Quadzilla if its coming but I woulds consider still get ting it now because of tuning time it will take to dial in. Wouldn't take much more that a few minutes to hook up. The Edge Comp uses the same plugs that the Quadzilla uses. Plus one pyrometer probe install. Way better than the Edge Comp trust me when I went from 27.2 MPG as a high mark then figured out the Quadzilla and bet my own higmark at 28.04 MPG.

Well that came from the fact I had 5 years of running from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR with my mother @MoparMomto dialysis. That worked out to about 1,100 miles per week I drove. Total of 250k miles in 5 years. Being I was trying to be the best I could for so much travel I dial it in to the highmark I've got today. I was part of the beta test team for the Quadzilla Tuner and help with others involved in making the tuner it is today. Clue: Engine oil temp will rise considerably when the timing is advanced too far being the cylinder walls have more flame contact for longer. Optimal should start the burn in the piston and the expanding just to finish the power stroke out. This will show up in the coolant but later in time. My typical engine oil temp is much lower than coolant which hangs about 195*F but the oil temp is 160*F to 165*F normally measuring at the oil filter housing. Anything that creates excessive heat is a loss of power... Just the wrong sized tires can impact this in excessive EGT's (most common). So today with 439,xxx miles on The Beast and if you figure its 238k to the moon and the back again is 476k miles just need another 37k miles I've driven to the moon and back.

Looks... Ok, might not be great... But torque output I got you beat... 285/70 R17 is 3.44:1 final ratio to the ground. This will impact your tune in the feature. I just got done setting up @Sycostang67 about a month ago running 305's and EGT's were sky high I managed to get timing built around that. Little better even he dropped back to stock 245's and dropped his EGT's down. The only issue is the final ratio is a bit taller on him because of 4th gear being 0.68 on 47RE. Yup, all this has to be considered... Too low of a cruise RPM wil hinder your tune. You gotta be up in RPM to make things work right... 245/75 R16 is 3.69:1 great enhancement. Lowered my EGT's at 55 MPH to 450*F. 65 MPH is barely 550*F EGT's Again part of the MPG Magic is that tire size. I'm looking for the optimal final ratio around 3.73. NOTE: ECO is a correct number and calibrated on my truck 145% offset. NOTE: Trans Temp is not trans oil temp but Engine Oil Temp and this is a method of checking my timing based on engine oil temps. (Hint)

Ummm... Very few of those here... I get it there is always in the back of everyone's mind just wants to roll a bit of coal for a friend or to show off once in awhile. All good. I'm guilt to some degree but most normally I keep it on the clean side being fuel is so expensive now. I'm also no longer running on a schedule. Now I've got nothing to hurry for well maybe a fire call.

As for boost pressure on a Quadzilla if you advance timing properly the boost should be lower. Basically if the injection is advanced enough most of the expanding gases will be tuned into work to the drive line and very little left to spool the turbo. This is why you have to adjust the amount of low boost retard to make the injection event late and the expanding gases are more so in the exhaust stream. Hint you can contrl some of the boost in just timing on a Quadzilla. Even more you can cut fuel where you want too on the map to keep boost down. Or last method you can see a boost limit on the Quadzilla and it will auto defuel for you even show you the amount of defuel being used. Quadzilla Adrenaline is a 180 HP tuner. So its going to fuel 3 times harder than a Smarty S-03. I've got several tricks for fuel mapping and making a nice clean powerful truck. I will admit the magic of my high MPG numbers is in the timing not the fuel. Takes a lot of study work to get the timing just right being there is several variables that affect timing on a Cummins ISB engine. We can talk about this soon when you get your tuner. Oh a another trick if you follow my design I've got a span of just pure 100% stock fuel in my tune intended for my cruise state. Now if I lay into the throttle for any reason no the CANBus Fuel and the Wiretap are both programmed together at the same starting point at 15 PSI of boost and then ramp up to maximum fuel by the time I hit 30 PSI of boost. During the summer I have serious issues on any wire tap level (4 and up) because the tires just won't stick with this much power. Being I run a 245's which bring the ratio down to 3.69 to the ground makes it perfect for towing power. As for my turbo is was a hand me down from another member. Its a HX35/40 (60/60/12) more or less a stock HX35W turbo on the exhaust side but fitted with HX40 compressor wheel. It spools pretty darn quick and down low. As for the MPG game... Wait for it... The distance... Hand math 28.04 MPG. Tank to tank. No cheating.

Another reason I allow the forum software to archive and lock 1 year or old post. Allows anyone to look back at old history and then since its locked the new topic will now be populated with newer up to date information that way. One of the few things I don't like about CompD and CF the don't ask questions and use the search feature answer. If search these sites you end up with is a bunch of information that is old or out of date. Better solutions aren't talked about etc. The other feature here at M73M is the fact anyone could start off with a stellar write up on doing something to there truck and I can single click promote that forum post to a article database in a second. This way we are not searching all over the forum for common articles like over at CF or CompD. A matter of fact I started with HTML pages well before I even thought of the forum. That was the starting of M73M was www.frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man was the first website in 2004 which was only article pages till 2007 that was when I got the domain name mopar1973man.com and upgrade to vBulletin 3.8.x. Story continues on...

Head studs is a good idea. It will not promise that the head gasket wont blow. Ill admit I was long way away from efficient map on the turbo. Being I past 50 PSI on 12cm2 housing the drive was enough to blow the gasket. Make sure to not to over drive the turbo. Another tip do not just ramp up fuel from idle to WOT. There should be a realm of stock 100% in a cruise state. Again this is a efficiency thing. As for valve spring are you planning on running past the redline? If so then yeah it would be a good idea on valve springs. Also are you planning on 60 psi of boost then yeah springs will be needed.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/FNG_syndrome#:~:text=The term "******* New Guy,usually to refer to newcomers.

Well I got a quick call to @Spdfrk and gave him a warm welcome but got called to run help unload to Genrac Generators for a friend.

Yup. Exactly what I get too in the USA. The problem is when your leaking from one media (fuel) to a second media (oil) eventually all the oil will be polluted with UV dye and look like everything has dye leaking out. This why you got to be set up at the time of adding the dye because a time later the entire crankcase will be full of the dye. You'll end up changing oil all over again to get rid the dye to start over.

I wish... ive got an exhaust brake bolted to mine currently which could get expensive doing a new exhaust brake (in line) then new turbo. I do haul trailers in the summer.

All you got to do is start a new thread "subject" and everyone will jump in and help. There is all walk of life here. So there are guys here that build for racing performance and others like rancher and farmer just want a good running work truck. We've got ya covered.

VP44 has been considered a solid injection pump by us over here being there is several members tha can put 250k miles and better on a VP44 without failure. 4 ways of killing a VP44... Fuel pressure below 14 PSI AC noise in excess of 50mV AC Filtration above 3um Lubricity above 460 HFRR (US ~520 HFRR) Then there are nuts like me that create a ~500 HP truck to the ground with 28.04 MPG high mark for economy that i just broke that this last summer. Nothing wrong with VP44 truck. I will warn I ultimately killed a head gasket getting carried away with tuning and pushing more and more power out which blew the head gasket. I tend to fall into the Economy Guru realm...

Welcome to the family of Cummins Nuts. I've gotta say that is a very beautiful truck you've got there. Oh trust me ask away on anything like @W-T above my post is a electrical wizard. Someone will step up and help with what they know. Surprise though is we've got members from all over the globe that have different skills at different things.

Roughly speaking for every 1 PSI of boost will give roughly ~10 HP of power so HX35W could be ran at 35 PSI of boost easy slightly out of the map but still workable. Like my HX35/40 Hybrid is the same exhaust housing as stock with the same turbine. But the compressor is HX40 wheel. Stronger turbo than the HX40. 35 PSI is roughly ~350 HP. Otherr factors in volved again tires size, gear ratio, final ratio of the transmission, final ratio to the ground with tires, injector size, pop pressure of the injector, tuner, etc.

Like myself my normal cruise 65 MPH is ~2,000 RPM. If you cruising below 1,800 your not helping efficiency. This is one of the key features that gets me 425 miles to a half tank. Smaller tires that are lighter, also the final ratio very close 3.73 ratio to the ground. Hard to catch me with a high mark of 28.04 MPG set this last summer. Low RPM's is a bad thing. Causes lugging and high EGT's because you not working in the power band.

Yes if the fan was removed or the belt was. You will be able to see the fuel push through. Of course the whole ares behind the gear would light up from the UV dye and black light. Again the time will be short between the time its start till it possibly got dye everywhere. The reason I know this I use the same kind of dye and black light for A/C work. Shaft seal. VP44 shaft seal. Yes. This is why the time is short because once the dye makes it to the oil it will be everywhere in a few seconds then the test will show fuel everywhere in a short time. This why you want the fan belt removed, gear case vent removed, valve cover removed so you can monitor all this stuff in a few minutes and see where the dye is coming from.

When you do make sure to have everything ready to look shortly after start up. Have the valve cover off, have the vent cover off the gear case, pull the fan or fan belt so you can look in the gear case for dye. Being that the oil from the head drains back to the tappet area and the VP44 gets splash fed from the gears you could possibly see dye in all places in a short order so be set up for the dye and have all the stuff setup for adding the dye. Then in the first few minutes pay close attention where your seeing dye. Also if dye is visible then shut down because again you have dye running every where is a short time.

Remember 245/75 R16 tires or 245/70 R17 tires would give you a final ratio of 3.69 roughly to the ground. Those 285/70 R17 push your final ratio 3.44 this creates more EGT's. Optimal final ratio is 3.55 to 3.73. The combo of the 245/75 R16 and the 3.55 gears makes it a perfect towing machine being the final ratio puts you right at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH. This is optimal for towing you should be up close to 2,000 RPM for towing on the highway. Even running empty at 80 MPH is just short of 2,500 RPM.

That kind of like asking me if I'll sell "The Beast"... Same answer would be given.