Mopar1973Man

Yup that would do it. The injector will lift up a bit losing some compression making it lopey and also routing that pressure into the fuel tank from there.

All fuel pickups suck from the bottom. That is the first to go. That means anything heavier than diesel fuel will sink to the bottom and be first consumed. Like dirt, water, etc.

No issues here with NAPA suspension parts. I've noticed at least NAPA will update parts as needed.

When you see hotshot guys putting over a million miles on a Cummins with standard Chevron Delo 15w-40. Like the last time I pull my head to replace the gasket my cylinder walls still have cross hatch yet at 438k miles. Looking good.

That's the thing right there. Well all need to take responsibility for our own actions. That doesn't mean pass the buck then hope and pray for change. If you not doing something to make a change like getting involved in your own local gov't and making it a point to vote for change. How about writing letter ot your local state government and tell them your not satisfied with (person name) and there their performance. Tell your local government how the inflation of prices how its impacting your life and your ability to live. Etc. Now this is being proactive and doing something about what is happening. Like myself I've been working with another group that is making a website to bring information of the gov't to light. Now this is being proactive even just getting truthful information to others is a huge help. Another thing you all can do is turn off ABC, NBC and FOX. Now on your smart TV or Roku fire up Pluto TV and drop down to Newsmax and watch a different view of news and different point of view. I'm that black sheep that is going the opposite direction pushing through the on coming crowds of sheeple saying' "Excuse me, I'm not going that direction."

300k miles is low miles on a Cummins. These engine will go over a million miles.

Doesn't your headlights have 2 adjustments per headlight? There should be on the OE headlights a left and right adjustment and the up and down adjustment. Like my HID and the aftermarket headlights I've only got up and down now. No left to right.

Pressure in the fuel tank is not a good thing. Typically that is cause by compression gases being forced into the return rail back to the fuel tank. Injector copper not sealing Cracked head Blown head gasket Just the few reason I've seen for pressure in the fuel tank. I would look at the injectors again and making sure the crossover tubes are tighten first then the injector hold down. Then been sure to tighten the injector hold down to 89 inch/pounds.

That's a good thing. Even my economy tune is smokeless. Even on level 2 I can still spin the tires. Smoke just means you tune is too advanced in timing and over fueled.

Sorry for the malfunction I've been working in the back end of the site so things have been a bit goofy... Again sorry for that...

Should of done VCO nozzles. I had the same issue with stalling on my first set of SAC tips. Then changed to VCO and stalling problem was gone. The other thing I did was not opt for default pop pressure but went up to 320 bar. Way cleaner burn less smoke. Then now coupled with 30 inch tires with a final ratio at 3.69:1 and my economy tune now I'm hitting a high mark of 28 MPG. Typically get 350 to 400 miles on a half tank.

Ummm... I'll patiently wait... Just like my mother professed that she would see the end time in her life time. Nope. Prayed for "Decades" and here we are still today in the same mess. I think its time of more action than prayers. Prayers are not going to stop the Gov't from doing what it doing to the people. Praying is not going to get Biden and the corrupt democrats out of office. Praying is not going to fix the inflation of the dollar and the troubled market. Praying isn't going to protect myself for corrupt cops or being killed by rioter. I'm not saying I don't believe but I believe you have to be more proactive to make changes than passive (praying) which doesn't fix anything.

Only works good "IF"... Battery are in good condition and not discharged. Alternator is up to the task and not exceeding the 150 Amp breaker If the circuit breaker is tripping quite a bit look at the batteries. It not a circuit breaker problem nor is it a alternator problem. Even changing to a fuse its possible to keep blowing 150A fuses too. Again its the batteries that are not keeping up with the task. I've dealt with this in the past. Double cables on the negative did nothing. Changing from 150A circuit breaker to a 150A fuse did nothing. But now replacing the batteries that were weak problem gone...

Absolutely...

I personally say that we need to drain the Gov't swamps. We cant fix any of these problem when America is allowing all these DemonRats (Democrats) stay in control. We can pray our brains out and go to church every day but the evil will still be in control. Till the Gov't swamps are drained we are not going to get any better.

That is because the Edge just stacks timing on top of the stock timing of the ECM. This is not optimal at all. Bigger injectors need a good amount of retard to get spooled up then you can advance timing on top more being bigger injectors are going to need more time to heat the fuel to a vapor, then go BANG on time. On the Quadzilla the ECM is in control till warm up mode is completed. Even my truck is a bit smokey on start up and getting rolling. Once out of the warm up phase then the Quadzilla will take over and use your tune. I've got mine set for 140*F for warm up.

The dual battery cables will gain you nothing most likely. You can do a voltage drop to verify if the cable is needed but most of the time no. Even on my truck under load the voltage drop with stock cables on the negative side is 0.003 (3 mV drop). Then to verify if the dual is needed just hook up jump cables to each negative post and test again. In my case it was still 0.003 (3 mV drop) drop. So no change and nothing to be gained on dual cables.

Sound like negative torque if the timing is advancing too fast on the upper end.

The biggest problem is final ratio is too tall. 3.40:1 ratio is too tall and will cause tuning issues. Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 and that will greatly reduce the EGT's fast. Tall ratio like that need a lot of retard to make it launch fast. That's why it a dog launch too much advance will cause the turbo to lag and not to spool. More your above 3.55 the more you need to retard to get launched. So your tune starting at 17* is insane... 13.0, 17.5, 22.0, 26.5 this would be good for your final ratio. Just for fun and info. I had a tune based on 13.0, 18.5, 24.0, and 29.5 which built upwards of 51 PSI of boost and blew my head gasket due to the choke point of my turbo 12cm2. But that combo worked really good I could light up the tires in just about any gear I wanted. Build power super fast but the MPG's was a bit lower because of the negative torque. After replacing 2 Cummins OE gaskets (which are not made by Cummins but a company called BLK) and bring my timing down to the one above now I'm got the efficiency a slight loss to top end power but with high MPG's I'm not complaining.

Junk. There again the sensor is based on electronic means to translate simple rheostat and a 2 switches. So far the Timbo APPS lasted over 300k miles and like 8 years. Still cheaper than the Wells Magnetic which can have failures electronically just like the factory OE APPS the failures between the rheostat and the electronics.

Most likely could measure the cables and get close enough. Yeah your going to want to pull the drums.

DOM of 2/00 is a 2000 truck for sure not an 2001. Now the was short bed and long bed so the cables has to be removed and measured to get the right ones. Don't feel bad I've got my 2006 truck I need to do the same thing. Driver side is all bound up just like yours.

No need for bigger tubes or lines like said above when your over 600 to 700 HP. Keep in mind bigger lines and tubes are going to offset timing more retarded being it will take more pump time to Reach pop pressure.

I agree with above comments. Bump the starter with the key this will start the prime cycle of the lift pump. Check you work for fuel leaks not to mention is the lift pump working?

I would rather opt for... 14.0, 18.5, 23.0, 27.5 for max timing on any hotrod or modified pump with an auto. 13.0, 17.5, 22.0, 26.5 for max timing with again a modified pump on a manual 5 or 6 speed.