Mopar1973Man

Hua???

Again another example I can run 26 to 27 degrees of cruise timing at 2,000 RPM but I'm always below 5 PSI of boost. This is why I monitor my engine oil temperature because to advanced engine oil temperature will rise up past coolant because the amount of flame on the cylinder walls. Also watch engine load numbers it will rise because of negative torque.

Check out @Auto Computer Specialist for replacement ECM. There isnt any new ECMs only reman'ed.

You can run quite a bit of timing as long as the boost is near zero. No more than 5 PSI for above about 22 to 23 degrees.

Too old that's a version 1.0 without tuning abilities.

Nice truck. Very clean looking.

@IBMobile has one of the trick setups for lock up controllers ive seen.

Tap the wire. Problem like me up north the salt would rot the splice and your in for a VP44 replacement. Best to use the plate being it is a weather proof connection.

NO. It pierces the plastic case and lightly touching the circuit board tracer internally. There are no wires inside the case just a circuit board.

BD Stealth Plate is what your looking for. I've got one on Beast.

If you watch engine oil temperature that will tell you how far out of time you are by temperature. If your too retarded then the fire burn down the cylinder wall heating the coolant jacket. Same is true with too far advanced but your trying to squeeze your fire making negative torque. Hence why you watch engine load because it will rise. As weather changes and cetane changes then timing changes low cetane burns slower but longer. High cetane lights easy but burns out fast which high cetane has less btus per gallon than low cetane. Depending on intake manifold temperature now the air is above 80°F no problem it will light easy. Colder you might try more timing but because with high cetane fuels already advanced lights easy might be off on timing again watch engine oil temperature you'll now which way is right. Cooler engine oil mean better timing being all the fuel is burning in the bowl of the piston. Anything that creates heat is a loss of power. Then thermal dynamics basically states difference of temperatures will attract like magnets. This is why I'm running 200°F thermostat from the 6.7L Cummins. If I raise the coolant temperature then my cruising cylinder temperature are fail close and it doesn't dump much heat in the coolant jacket. Again watching engine oil temperature I seen a rise from the 190°F to the 200°F but still floating cool at 172 to 175°F engine oil temperature. Now I produce more power to the tires. I've done it a few time doing heavy throttle from a stop to about 70 MPH. I know Beast will possibly fry the tires in 2nd gear. Grab 3rd I've seen it resume frying tires. 4th gear get a squeak. Now pulling 4th grade up Goose Creek I've broke tires lose in just about every corner marked for 25 MPH but pulling 40 to 45 MPH. Level 3 I can mat the throttle and never even let up. I've been clear to 105 MPH but EGTs hover 1,000°F to 1,100°F. Level 4 and up I've got too much fuel so the lower levels are usable but in a burst fashion like passing semis I'll be tiping 1,400°F EGTs but oil temperature will surge for a few miles and drop again. Lots of fire. Timing hunt I feel might be AC noise issue. Pull your field wire off the alternator and test drive. If the problem leaves then the alternator has AC noise issues and needs replacement. Then I would do the W-T ground wire mod.

Hey @Scarecrow give me a call and tell you some numbers to try also another trick to learn timing better. 208 315 1470

Don't buy Quadzilla XZT you cannot do custom tuning. You have to send in the module to be programmed. I cannot do any tuning or support it. You need the full Quadzilla Adrenaline to do custom tuning. I'm constant tweaking my Quadzilla tune to for weather and conditions. With a XZT you'll have remove the XZT and send it in to be reprogramned every time conditions change winter to Summer. Towing or empty truck. Just an example when my engine oil temperature rises to match coolant temperature I know my timing is off. I can pull over knock 2 degrees off the cruise timing program the Adrenaline drive 5 miles my oil temperature drops to 30 degrees cooler than coolant which means my timing is correct. I'm also running 24 to 26 degrees at 2k RPM. This is some thing you cannot do with a XZT. Trans temp is oil temp. Coolant over 204 shows -40. Yes I'm running a 200 degree thermostat. Yes I enjoy my high 20s MPG. Again an XZT can't do this. Cold air degrades MPG. Hence my 200 degree thermostat and my attempts to keep IAT above 80 degrees because optimal IAT is 80 to 140 degree any lower than 80 it degrades MPGs. Air is too cold to convert diesel fuel to vapor to bang.

Yes I build tunes. Best to go to the source of Quadzilla which is @Quadzilla Power at https://quadzillapower.com/

Quadzilla is the best on the market with full timing and fuel control which no other product can do.

All transmitted over a CCD Bus in digital signal. So you might have to send your PCM for testing. If the ECM is creating and the cluster is reading signal then the PCM has internal issues which are not capable to read tach signal off the CCD network. This is a full digital signal and very hard to decode which few have managed to do.

Oh. Crank sensor now I'm with you. Sorry. Again you need a o-scope the sensor created variable frequency as rpm rises and falls. I would pull the sensor out and verify the two screws didn't fall out of the tone wheel and then the tone wheel falls off in the pan. Yes it does happen. You will most likely need to replace it being it most likely bent and crushed from the spinning crank. There is a member here that had to replace the tone wheel. Oil pan comes out easy just jack the frame up allowing the front axle to hang. There will be plenty of room to pull the pan so you can fix the problem. Sensor wise just need to check and see if 5V is present at the plug. But yes the ECM counts the frequency of the pulses to figure out RPM. Yeah your going need a o-scope.

You'll need a o-scope because the frequency varies with speed so the PCM doesn't control speed readings but the ABS computer does and sent out on the CCD bus to all modules that are listening. Like ECM, PCM, cluster, overhead trip computer, etc. Module Masters in Moscow ID does rebuild the ABS computer and gives a good long term warranty.

IAT still will control engine timing regardless of the grid heater being missing or broken. The best I can say you could have the ECM sent into @Auto Computer Specialist and let them test the ECM and verify you have right software. Then only other thing i will suggest is doing W-T ground wire mod. To make sure it's not AC noise from the alternator fouling timing.

Seriously off the top sounds like a possible set of rings are needed. I would first do a compression test on the engine and see if there is damaged rings or pistons. You have some amounts of blow by which is why the loss of oil and dripping out the breather. Yes I would start with compression test and skip the blow by because we need to know which cylinder is possibly damaged. A good shop might also have a bore scope small enough to fit through the injector hole and be able to see the cylinder walls and see if there is scratches or damaged pistons.

Yeah I'm getting little things done to fix beast up. Yeah my energy and strength are crappy but I manage to get minor repairs done on the truck. Had to share it not like I'm super busy on my retirement.

Holy cow! I just had a phone call from way down under in Australia. It our Ford Conversion with a 24V Cummins. I've got to do a bit of email support to get the info passed along to his mechanic. Seriously like WOW!!! I've got people calling from all over the planet. This crazy Mopar Man is still reaching to far corners of the world with tech support for Cummins Engines.

I had some nasty rust on the tailgate. Idaho is using really corrosive salt this year. This is not to be perfect bit as a stop gap till I am done with my chemo or when I have the funds for the body work. Thanks to Mark he's got a nice palm sander and good assortment of sanding disc's. There where two spots where 40 grit grinder was used to dig at the deep pitted metal. Then using black primer to match the gloss black I bought today. Help bond the new paint to the metal and hopefully stop the rusting process. I've got a few spots on the body where rust blisters are starting and need the blister broke open metal cleaned up and painted to just stop the growth of rust. Again isn't to be pretty or perfect just to seal the metal till I get to the paint process later after my cancer.