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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. As of last night I've started my own shop in Pollock Idaho. I've been taking to people about the lack mechanic shops in the area. Then a guy I've know that has a 3 bay shop already he's will to make a business agreement where I get to use his shop for a percentage of the profits. So far this is a work in progress and nothing is set in gold yet but working towards how we both would like to see things happen. I will have one bay with a 8,000 pound two post lift and then two other flat ground bays to work from. Floors are heated in the winter time, and A/C (swap cooler) during the summer. I've got to give the owner a hand moving some stuff to storage but he's agreed to clean up his junk and get me working space.
  2. About 15* at 1,500 and then about +3 degree step up for the rest of the spans and the max just +1 off the 3,000 RPM.. The oil temp might naturally run hot being your towing. I'll admit that is one variable I've not had the chance to study yet. My travels have all be empty so far.
  3. Not even one month old and failed on my previous post. I'm 90% sure this is a Robertshaw 330 high flow thermostat and produced by Mr. Gasket of all weird companies. Just to show this failure is common to split the body from the disc. Just to show this design is used by Chevy 6.5L Diesels. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MRD385190 So here we are Cummins does not produce the thermostat. Mr. Gasket does using Robertshaw 330 high flow design. Common to split apart in different applications. Just as @mr.obvious thermostat failed in his 2002 Dodge Cummins. So is it worth the $40 to $60 price tag to find out you have a part not even a Cummins part just reboxed Mr. Gasket. I've call Robertshaw and they do not acknowledge that they sell thermostats. This is when I found the tie to Mr. Gasket who is currently producing. As I said I'm 90% sure of this.
  4. Need all the settings... Max Timing is the maximum timing the Quad will give normally the rest of the timing setting are how much retard of timing will occur in different conditions. We need to see it all. Truck is heavy. I'm typically 7,300 to 7,500 pound empty.
  5. Thank Gawd, I'm not using the stock basket.
  6. Idle chatter forums like this do not count. ZERO gain. Now all your post in the tech forums will gain count +1.
  7. Some of us park in unheated shops that might be a bit warmer (+20*F to +30*F). This give you cheating start with warmer fuel and not have to struggle with -15*F out of the starting gate. To this date I've NEVER gelled up yet.
  8. Cummins failure found. The thermostat body separated. Weld between the body and disc broke.
  9. Check error codes and list the numbers out... There might be more at hand here.
  10. Actually @Electrojake he was referring to the fact that you might be creating the article or someone would be. This is what make this site so popular is the the fact you can write your own articles and crate a notebook of information that you can refer to later and share the link with another forum or member here. All other forums out there are just forums. M73M is way different being the membership can produce articles, have your truck garage, and many other functions. Last time I checked there is over 15 GB of website data here.
  11. The solution could of been as easy as replacing the APPS sensor with a Timbo's APPS for about $170.
  12. You suppose to be on the same polarity. If your working positive both probes are on the the positive side. Never touching the negative side. Then visa versa doing negative side you never touch positive.
  13. I wonder if the video signal isn't making it back to the deck that is what turns the screen over to back camera mode. If the video line is dead then the stereo will not flip over.
  14. Tidbit more. @mr.obvious did a bit more testing. He put both Cummins old thermostat and the new thermostat in a pan of water and heated. Watching they both open exactly at the specified 190°F as stamped on the thermostat. The problem is when left to cool the new Cummins thermostat is EXTREME slow to close back up taking up to 3 minutes. The old thermostat only took a mere 30 seconds or so. This explains why the the new one is running cold sided.
  15. That's why most of this stuff is in the article database so we can revisit those thing again later and renew our knowledge on different things.
  16. We all learn from each other here. Like I just did a post on re-sealing a 2002 transfer case which I've got to post some more to. There is no dumb questions here. The only dumb question is the one you DON'T ask. We have guys from all walks of life here. working folks, performance nuts, hot shot truckers, etc. I'm sure someone of the pile will have an answer or an idea on how to fix, repair, diagnose, etc. Just jump in and start asking questions.
  17. According to Eric at Vulcan performance the 2010+ lift pumps have better longevity and better pressure and volume for the 4th gen engines. As for the 3rd Gen pumps still have serious problems with volume and pressure. Not to mention longevity is rather poor yet. This is why the 2010+ pumps seem to be better solution for stockish trucks.
  18. We switched over to subscription based. https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/ BBCode is obsolete here. No longer really used. This is all up to date HTML5 coding not like CF.com with old school PHP software. Here you go... https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ No longer here... All subscription based now. There is a lot of the information tied up in the article section. This coming winter I'm going to be writing more articles for the 4th Gen. We already have raided the Mopar storehouse for information just need the time to convert PDF files into HTML5 coding and do all the SEO coding (Google) too. I apologise for being short on current info for the 4th gens but I'll get caught up. Personal note I'm a cancer survivor so I'm currently working mostly to pay my hospital bills. This why I'm bit behind on getting articles wrote for the site.
  19. Welcome to the family... What are you looking to do? What are your goals exactly?
  20. Quick fix... If you have a flat/tapered ferrel. You can use a double taper ferrel. The trick is managing to file one side down flat. but not too much because to much filing will make it to the point you can compress the ferrel ino the tubing. Still can damage your tubing again doing this. This is why I fell in love with PTC fittings. I got all metal PTC fittings and so far 6 years and still going strong and leak free. I got the fitting from NAPA.
  21. Disregard the P1693. It's just a flag pointing there there is other error codes could be in either module. Now follow the diagnostic on the PCM.
  22. This is done by measuring the voltage loss at different places along the cable as in the article. Better the voltage the less amperage required as shown below. Watts (load) = Volts (Supplied) x Amps (Draw) So if The starter load is 8,400 watts this means 12 Volt system has to supply 700 amps. Now if you lose 0.2 or more volts that means that that has to be made up in amps. Wattage load will not change typically. 8,400 Watts = 12.6 Volts x 666 Amps 8,400 Watts = 12 Volts x 700 Amps 8,400 Watts = 11.5 Volts x 730 Amps As you can see the more voltage that can make it to the starter will require less amperage to do the same work. This is just an example and not actual numbers. It does show the mechanics of electricity and how a weak connection can create more amperage draw typically showing as a burnt connection. Larger the cable gauge the less voltage loss in distance.
  23. I'm the reverse I've had plenty of compression fittings and tubing fails in my past and not having a means of replacing the ferrel and getting the line hooked back up. End up heat the end of the tubing and crushing the plastic shut to get home a few times. Then find out the local stores don't have the right ferrel for your setup. End up changing fitting because of a change of ferrels.
  24. Yup. it helps a bunch being I see -20*F to -40*F up here every winter at least one day to one week. Never gelled once yet.
  25. Simply Auto... https://www.simplyauto.app/ Yes you can run more than one vehicle. I paid for the $4 version and working excellent. Can even back up your logs to a Excel sheet (LibreCalc for Linux). Like I currently log both my 1996 Dodge and the 2002 Dodge. The diesel I've got over 4 years of fuel logs just about and still working good. Maintenance notices will pop up after filling the tank when time or mileage is exceeded.