Mopar1973Man

Yes. Never removed the turbo. Drill both holes and tapped with everything assembled. Greased my drill bit and the tap. Then used a Q-tip to pick up any metal that might of fallen through. A Q-Tip will snag any metal chips just by touching.

Finished project. For the most part. Gotta do one small task for the owner and fix his OBDII port which is complete damaged. I do have the pin assignments for the plug once again.

So far in all this I've never seen a vehicle freeze up yet in our member group. I've seen plenty of pH corrosion damage over the years. Kind of like myself. I over extended a coolant change and paid the price. oil cooler gasket $70 radiator $280 head gasket $2000 These failure could of all be avoided by just flushing out the coolant earlier and resetting the pH balance again.

Not a bad looking ride. I'm curious about turbo charging a naturally aspirated gasoline engine. I'd love to see more on this.

Been in effect for many years. Deleting any truck is a federal crime. Has been for a long time. Locally I know that no dealer will accept a deleted truck for traded in now. For a dealer to sell a deleted truck is just as bad.

I've stacked both the ISSPro and the Quadzilla exhaust pyrometer probes on the rear runner.

Even to this day my radiator is still clean on the inside of the old one. Never had a scale problem and never used distilled water. Only well or creek water used for all those years and nearly 400k miles.

Now looking at your photo @Evan... Now my Morimoto D2S lens will cast light out 50 feet past the ditch on the driver side that is very dimly lit in your photo. As for my PIAA LEDs driving lights are light your for brightness at a fraction of the current draw. Just the PIAA cast a wider path of light just as bright. I would say that is a good upgrade just got to ask if the plastic lens is getting too hot? I'll admit my LED's snow over fairly easy where you would shed snow very well.

No. Quadzilla Adrenaline v2. This is my tune for the Quadzilla Adrenaline.

Kind of like my Economy tune is built for good MPG in the 1,500 to 2,000 RPM range. Then my Performance tune is 2,000 to 2,500 RPM range for good MPG. Needless to say enough power to take the teeth off 5th gear on the mainshaft at 80 MPH, which was metal fatigue after nearly 400k miles of highway. Too many people worry about launching power or down low power. My economy tune is built with low power in the bottom end so to keep the smoke controlled and not get into the wire tap. Then the power comes on above 13 PSI of boost. Giving good passing power but then flips back to mellow fuel to keep MPG up. The performance tune I'm running seems to do excellent in the upper RPM's being the timing is just a few more degrees advanced over the economy tune. Just take a second to tap the "Custom Tuning" then tap on the tune you wish and answer "yes". Changed over in flight and take advantage of the tune for the road type.

That sucks... There should be two bolts down there. Only need one bolt to hold the bracket. I'm the kind of guy that seems to use anti-seize on everything thing.

I made a 2 relay set up, Both lo's and hi's worked. Just the pattern sucked. You'll find the aux beam does nothing really but make a narrow vertical column of light. The main lights the 9007 do the most work. Even in factory set up for just hi beams on the aux light is still poor. Basically build your relay for the drivers side then just across and and feed the passenger side.

Not an exact answer. I've seen a VE pump without a rear bracket and did pretty darn good. As for VP44 they do have more weight I'd be a bit more concerned with the hanging weight. I would suggest fixing the bracket. But it won't hurt to be without the bracket for a short time while you get it repaired.

Just done a clutch on a 1992 Chevy 350 pickup. This thing was tiny compared to a NV4500 or a G56 transmission. Even this was on the two post with a transmission jack. Even with all the nice tools it still can be a turd some times to line up even with all the professional tools. It was so light I was picking the transmission off the jack and just shoved it in place. Being is was so light you tend to over do the angles really quick. My NV4500 was a bit more fun. Laying on the floor and attempting to gain enough strength to push from the floor and even wiggle that beast in place. Still in all it was a PITA to get to finally seat in place. The biggest help is to get at least two bolts that are the proper thread but much longer that stock bolts. Cut the heads off and use them for alignment pins. This basically lines everything up for a straight push. This trick applies to automatics too where you can put the pin bolts in the lower bellhousing holes and slide it in.

Also need the firmware update I'm pretty sure ADR1000 is the old firmware. Should be on the v2 tuning. Yeah timing is too retarded.

What year of truck? There is a jumper inside the Quad to select the early or late series MAP sensor.

I would most likely clean up the old glue and use something like JB Weld or Epoxy.

Looking for a wiring map of OBDII plug for 2012 Ram 6.7L. Trying to replace a plug that was badly damaged and not sure of the pin placement.

Dont worry too much on specs. I've used just about every coolant out there. I tend to fall back to the original green coolant of the past. Yellow universal works just fine too. The only one I won't use is the modern HOAT. The biggest thing is NOT trying to run all the way to the limit of the coolant. If it labeled for 5 years 150k miles I would cut that down to at least 75k (3yrs) to 100k miles (4 yrs). Our diesel engine tend to turn corrosive quicker (pH dropping). Made 392k on the OEM radiator before the rubber header seal failed from, pH issues.

Very neat process. Now be able to re-bore that hole all over again.

There was just too many software and hardware changes to mix and match parts on your truck. This is typically how it goes where thing just don't work out right quite.

Just sent in another ECM for 2012 Ram 6.7L with a p0606 code. No start or run condition. ACS is handling the repair as well speak. There was a slight pause in this being the truck is deleted and wanted to make sure the owner could reproduce the delete code for the ECM being the code / software is damaged. Make sure to tell @pepsi71ocean about this and get the information on the rebuilder list. I know not everyone can be pleased 100% of the time sorry ACS didn't hold up for you.

Remember the Cummins ISB was used in many medium duty trucks with air brakes and there is a optional gear driven compressor for these applications. 5.9L Cummins ISB compresor... Gear driven... 6.7L Ram gear driven air compressor. Belt driven air compressor.

Another one for the famous @dripley...

Some A/C pumps will pump the oil into the air system once the A/C compressor is empty it will seize. The old York compressors found in some Ford applications back in the 70's were the best being you could modify the pump to not pump oil out in the discharge. Typically guys use these in Jeep applications works really good this compressor will do exactly what you looking for. https://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/yorkair.html Oil modification... https://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/york_oilmod.html