Mopar1973Man

P1689 is no communication between the ECM and VP44. Read over this and check your wiring for damage.

I no longer use any prefilter (sock). They seem to create more issues than the BHAF by itself. I just install the BHAF and then reset my maintenance logs for the air filter. When the mileage comes up then I just replace it period. I don't even worry about blowing it out or nothing. Just chuck it in the trash and install a new one. Yeah I've got a few things to take care of. Cummins is being pull out of active duty and switch to the 1996 Dodge Ram for a time.

PCM is what starts the CCD Network. The cluster is what provides the bus bias voltage for the rest. ECM can run as a standalone and run the engine but can't get any data from or send it to the PCM. Should have 2.49 and 2.51 volts on the CCD Network lines after everything booted up and at rest. 

Today I've started this project. Thought it would be easy but its not. Pull the rear drive shaft. Then remove my AirDog fuel pump. Then drain all the ATF out of the transfer case. I've got the bolts out and the cover started off but no dice. I stopped right there and quit. Checking the FSM and seeing that you have to remove the tailshaft cover and there is a snap ring in the tail area holding at a bearing.

When the grid heater light remain on the ECM detected excessive return flow from the injectors and this is a sign of injector failure is currently happening. Double filter your fuel does help a bunch. So having a another filter before the stock filter will aid in extending the life of injectors. When injectors fail typically its the solenoid side and the fuel pressure can't be held good enough and bleed out the return rail. This allows for the pintle to remain open longer than it should or all the time washing the cylinder walls. Typically they wear out right around 100k to 150k miles. Yeah I've seen people still driving past that but typically now the injector(s) are hanging open and washing the piston rings out. This why the engines typically have excessive blowby by about 300k miles and require rebuilding. Just because its still starting and running good doesn't mean the injectors are working properly. Best suggestion is to at least pull the injections and send them into DAP and they can bench test all them and tell you which ones have failed or going to fail soon.

Might want to tell to the 2012 owner in my yard. Then the 3 others in town with the grid heater light on.

If he'll drop $4,000 off the price or provide new injectors before the sale then I would. Just remember after 100k miles you got to replace the injectors again.

So far mine be going for quite some time no leaks or issues with the air brake line.

You can make that bracket fairly easy. @mr.obvious used a piece of angle iron from a bed frame and then drilled two hole close to the size of the fitting. Then soldered the fittings in place. Very strong little bracket. Yes. You correct fuel pressure and boost sensors. Yes, fuse #5 does work with dimming feature. You can burn up 5 foot of line really quick by hiding the line in looms and different places. Tapped banjo bolt. This provided a 1/8 NPT fitting and rest is as you see. Yup. The banjo bolt goes in the fitting under the fuel filter for a tap point.

My OEM original failed at 50k miles stuck close.

That is a 58mm thermostat. I just check with Rocky Mountain Cuymmins. Try again that is the CORRECT application period. Again, Cummins does not manufacture thermostats. They buy from other manufactures and rebox them with there number that's all. It the correct part but the part did not hold the temperature properly. Period. My point is to go to the manufacture of the thermostat and buy it directly WITHOUT the logo. I would love to just know who is producing the thermostat and buy directly from the manufacture since Cummins does not manufacture them. Then you can still have the same thermostat as Cummins sells but from the manufacture at a fraction of the cost with the same 190*F spec. I called Rocky Mountain Cummins and it is the correct thermostat. It is the correct application for 2000 to 2002 5.9L Cummins ISB engines. This is what Cummins is supplying currently. Again I've double checked with Rocky Mountain Cummins in Boise, Idaho. Here is the same number in Mopar. https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-5015708AC-Genuine-Thermostat/dp/B00G0PKV94 Here is Cummins again. https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/98.5-02-dodge-5.9l-cummins-190-thermostat.html https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3946849/ Please explain to all these part vendors how they screwed up please...

I do! Then I can buy it at the manufacture for a reduced cost WITHOUT the logo. Thermostat the spec is on the bottom of the bulb of when it opens. 180, 190, 192, 195, 200. Etc. There is no other spec. If there is more specs you best off posting them up because I don't know of any other spec. Both my truck and @mr.obvious both have the 58mm bore. Both are 2002 trucks. Try again. That Cummins thermostat never made grade below 190*F. Umm... Not correct? Try again, Same thermostat. Please tell Cummins and T-Bred they are listing the wrong one! https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3946849/ Cummins Thermostat (190 Degrees) - 00-02 5.9L Cummins - 3946849 Correct application, try again! Just never made the grade temps under 190*F constantly. Just called Rocky Mountain Cummins had him verify for sure 00-02 5.9L Cummins - 3946849 this is the correct thermostat and what you see posted above is CORRECT! This is not a wrong application. This is correct for the 00 to 02 trucks for sure.

Again... Cummins and Mopar do not produce any thermostats. Being I've been working on Dodge trucks now over 17 years and seen several version of Cummins thermostats and not one ever looks the same. Even the new one from Cummins will not look like your past Cummins thermostat. Cummins and Mopar both just select another thermostat and stock it with a heavy marked up price. All the digging I've do on finding who manufactures thermostats for our trucks and what Cummins or Mopar supplies are always a different manufacture, some times they are the same thermostats as NAPA. Some times they look totally wild like the recent 2019 posted above. Still I tend to follow aftermarket parts more so because they upgrade quickly and issues typically get resolved fast. Still to this day all the NAPA thermostats I've installed in Dodge, Ram, Chevy, Ford, Subaru, etc. Never had to pull one out yet because it failed. Not like I've got selection of parts stores up here the only thing up here is NAPA period. Now in Ontario, OR there is Autozone and other chain stores.

Yeah I just called ol' Eric and getting info for another member and his truck and he's still making fuel system parts and kits.

https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3946849/ Exactly what I've seen in Ontario, OR. 190*F Cummins thermostat. Still right application for 2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L HO. Just his was running way low in temperature never reaching 190*F. Just for information purpose... The 200°F Gates is junk. Wild swings as high as 220°F to as low as 175°F. Not stable and very very wild swings up and down. All 3 NAPA are still good and serviceable. The two 190°F were swapped out during coolant flush schedule they hover at 195°F. I figured I'd play with a 180°F to see if there is any gain but runs too cold to be much good in the winter time this one runs about 183°F. All 3 of these are right in the normal range where they should be. You can see the changes. The small mouth is the old design and the larger mouth is the updated. My current 190°F looks like the 180°F on the right.

Just use your mobile device to download the tune. Then once the device has the file just start the iQuad app and then now hit the import button. This should bring up the tune and ask if you want to rename the tune. No PC required. Then I've created a tuning article... I've got to add the oil temp finding yet but the rest of the article is very helpful. Basically install the transmission temp sensor in the oil test port by the oil filter. If the oil temp is about -10*F below coolant your timing is about right. If the oil temperature is above coolant then your over advancing timing and burning way too much fire against the cylinder walls flooding the coolant jacket with too much heat which prevents the oil cooler from cooling the oil properly.

Any time you adding tubing to a fuel system it is wise to have a shut off valve at the tap point. Then you can have the snubber. This just a precaution if the tubing is to fail you can just simply turn the valve off and then continue driving to home or a repair shop to get things fixed. 5 foot of tubing helps reduce the finally pulse after the snubber. More distance the better. This is one of the killer of fuel pressure gauges when there no enough distance. Air Brake is more robust of a tubing. It will not become brittle with time and can handle being push around out of your way without failure or breaking like nylon typically did. Air Brake is small enough to route for mechanical gauges without the need of thick braid hose which is extremely difficult. That is super easy. I just did a gauge install for @mr.obvious in Ontario, OR. We got two fuse taps and one when into Fuse 9 for power, then the illumination into Fuse 5. As for routing the gauge wiring I hooked the sensors all up and the at the point at which they all met I then wrap the loom with electrical tap and pull it all there the boot in the dash. Then you need to remove the dash bezel and headlight switch. I pull the loom up there the dash and using the headlight switch hole to finish the pull to the a-pillar. About 2 hours to put together. When it was all done the whole thing looks very factory looking even the sensor brack @mr.obvious created and even updated my bracket. Looks awesome.

The only reason rubber brake lines fail is because you have not flush the brake system out every 30k miles. I'm almost to 400k miles and still got all my rubber hose and working just fine.

Gotta take a poke at him again...

No. Absolutely not. I agree with that. The only thing I don't want to do is hand over good money for a logo'ed part (Mopar or Cummins) to find out its made by a company that you can buy directly from them instead at a huge reduction of price. Few of the past things I bought like a MAP sensor from Cummins and the adapter for 2001 to 2002 that cost me over $200 for the two pieces. Another waste of money being these sensors can be had for a better price and with the adapter cable for free. Another one, I ended up replacing APPS sensor early in life no aftermarket parts available and went to Dodge Dealer and got hosed for $480 for APPS sensor. Now know there is Timbo's APPS at the fraction of the price and way better design. Still running my Timbo's without any issues. Another one, I was told by Eric @ Vulcan Performance to just call Cummins Dealer and order crossover tubes. OMG! $420 bucks for all 6 connector tubes. I refused to pay the $70 a piece price for Cummins logo'ed crossover tube. I had Eric order the set from his supplier took a huge savings. Just few example of wasteful spending just for OEM parts.

I want to bring up something that i think is rather weird. Majority of people here are quick to make changes to there truck and ditch OEM stuff. For the 2nd Gen 24V the OEM lift pump is removed and upgraded to FASS, AirDog or mechanical pump. Stock OEM injectors pull out and aftermarket oversized injectors installed. Then the Factory ECM tune is ditched for Quadzilla, Smarty, Edge, etc. Why in the heck does any one want to hold so dearly to a thermostat, water pump or a fan clutch that MUST be OEM? First off if you do your research Moprar and Cummins don't make very many parts. Like the last blow up over a thermostat. There is only a small handful of companies making thermostats. Again Mopar and Cummins don't manufacture any thermostats, fan clutches, or water pumps. The other thing is comments of all the failures on forums. Wow. Sure everyone is quick to complain about a failure of a part. But... There is lots of different things that could of gone wrong. Improper installation, defective part, abusing the vehicle, radiator plugged up, etc. Then rarely if at all does anyone say anything about great results with a aftermarket parts. So that is a very skewed method picking parts. My point is Mopar and Cummins is NOT doing any research to improve parts for our trucks they are done. There is entire aftermarket world where companies are actually improving parts and products. What is there just the handful of parts that MUST be OEM? I've got no clue... I've watch as @Me78569 use OEM Dana Ball joints which end up failing early too. I watch people do this all the time thinking that the same parts are still there from back in 1998.5 to 2002. Nope those parts are long gone and someone else is making the replacement parts for Mopar and Cummins. Kind of like the original fuel pickup basket of the 1998.5 to 2002 that no longer produced period. The only thing I want to point out before jumping into Cummins or Mopar for OEM parts. First do a bit of research. First off is the old part going to be the same part manufacturer? Most likely not. Second find out who is manufacturing said part now. Pretty sure you'll find out you can have the very same part but a reasonable price from the manufacturer that is supplying Mopar or Cummins. You don't have to buy the logo on the box. Then there is the entire aftermarket world of parts where other companies are making better parts and supplies for our trucks. Kind of like saying you want a OEM 47RE transmission which everyone here knows was a weak transmission won't hold the power. That where the aftermarket world comes in and making thing better with heavy duty parts. If OEM is so great I offer anyone to return there truck back to OEM let's go back to the OEM lift pump on the block or the OEM lift pump in the tank... I'm sure that won't last very long at all. Why even ask for OEM anything knowing that 99% of all parts today have been improved over the OEM of 1998.5 to 2002... Some people forget... I just don't work on my own truck but tons of vehicles. I work on Dodge's, Ram's, Chevy's, Ford's, etc. Now I will admit there is some parts I've seen low service rates. I'm not going to beat anyone up over it I just use something that works better. Very very rare do I ever go to a dealer for parts this is plain foolish. Like there are sometimes that OEM is the only choice. I did a A/C job on a Subaru few years back and it was a hybrid car (6 cylinder) this made the A/C parts rather rare. I needed the pressure switch on the accumulator. Hunted all over the place for that switch come to find out its a dealer only item. What was worse was you had to buy it with the accumulator at the price of $520 dollars. Just because it came from Subaru dealer it was priced extremely high. I had no other choice. If there was a aftermarket part I would of jump in a heart beat and left Subaru dealer in a hurry. My job to all you is to help you fix your truck and help you get parts that are reasonable in price and good service life. I really do have a problem when people are push into dealer parts and prices because it not always the best parts either. Again why do we pull all the OEM stuff and replace it with aftermarket stuff?

PCM controls the OD shift. So you need to verify the the transmission power relay and fuse are good. Then make sure the ORG/BLK wire is not damaged. Basically the PCM just grounds that wire to make 4th gear shift.

The rest of the wiring loom needs to be swapped too the pins are not the same order, there is wiring differences.

Do a bit of testing and diagnostics. Most of the steps you can do with a normal DVM meter. P1693 code just means there is more error codes on the other module.