Mopar1973Man

Yup... I understand when someone mods out a truck with a lift kit and larger tires the chances of asking them to go back is near zero. This where the fun of figuring out other ways of reducing the EGT's and engine load. Being the lift and tires typically stay it a matter of reducing drag. I know better not to ask anyone to change out tires for someone that is lifted it's not happening. Being the fuel creates the heat, boost controls the heat. Side note and comparing... Yesterday a friend invited me to run out to Lost Valley Reservoir for hot dogs and just a fun afternoon. The only time I have seen EGT's above 1,000°F was climbing the grade from the highway at about 30 MPH which all the old muddy dirt road with potholes, ruts, and washboard would allow. But out on the open highway at 65-70 MPH (~2,000 RPMs) I was lucky to see 550-600°F at 2-3 PSI of boost. But I've only got a mere engine load of 15% to 17% on the flats of New Meadows. I wish I had a picture of the trail down to here it was a rough nasty mess.

I didn't see the boost as an issue being he stated he's reaching 30 PSI after adjustment. You can't gain boost if it's leaking right? So if he adjusted and gained about 10 PSI of boost and if it was leaking the gain wouldn't be there. Right? Engine load is fairly high. That is fuel being added. I'm trying to figure out what is adding so much fuel. Being he got huge gain in engine load (fueling). Being boost typically reduces EGT's with more boost right? Back to the fuel side what increasing the engine load?

I would for sure say YES boost leak if it was WOT operation for sure.

This is what I'm working with CRUISE state on the highway not WOT. Yeah. This is what I'm talking about. He's not WOT. This is a cruise state were the boost should be low. Using what I've seen out of my truck typically around 5 to 7 PSI at cruise state at highway speed. Being we both have the same setup injectors, turbo and Quadzila. I could understand boost leak more relevant when the OP mentions WOT operation and high EGT's. As I quote its cruise state. This is why I dismiss the turbo/boost issue. Not to meantion he increased the boost. The only thing else I could think of the extra load he's running is dumping the cruise timing and dropping out to performance timing on the Quad. If he's too retarded it will get hotter. Like I quoted. It CRUISE state not WOT. Boost should be low anyways.

No. Wrong. I realize how the tire does affect load and final ratio. You have to remember I work and lots and lots of truck driven all kind of truck with lifts and 35" and 37". Yes, it has an impact on EGTs. Now I understand people that do a lift are not going to give up heir larger tires or the lift kit this going to stay. Pure and simple. Now knowing that you create the inefficiency by bringing the final ratio back closer to what the engine was designed for which optimal 3.55 to 3.73 is a good range. 3.39 is too low of a ratio this adds to engine load. This is NOT a 4th gen truck, this is NOT a 4th gen transmission, this is NOT a 4th gen axle. I'm NOT asking the OP to swap to 245's. I'm asking him to change the axle gear to correct the final ratio to reduce engine load and EGT's. He can keep the tire just correct the final ratio. Very common issue on the 2nd Gen and larger tires. I've got one in McCall I just done a few years ago guy loves his truck now and EGT's are lower and MPG is higher. 37" inch tires with swapped 3.55 to 4.10 gears. Michael West in McCall. So since tires are going to remain. Gears a typically the solution. But like I said to test this theory only takes swapping tires for a simple test drive. The problem goes away then the tires was the cause was the problem. Not hard at all.

I have seen a repair done another truck where the line got melt by the exhaust heat. I see what the owner did was using Air Brake line and was fairly impressed with the repair but gave me the idea of a full replacement with the air brake line.

Really? So, what's your theory in this?

Your welcome. I plan on doing that here soon too. I'm going to super different and not route like factory but get into the hollow of the fender and then tucked up on the cowl properly. I hate the factory route where it's in the middle of everything.

Not the turbo... The engine load and fuel usage that creates the EGT's heat because of excessive drag. More drag from the wheels and gearing means more fuel used to make it move. More fuel means more EGT's. Reduce the drag and EGT's fall pretty simple. As the OP posted... I'm down lower at 23% to 25% and 82 MPH which I've reduced the drag. Both 2nd Gen, but tires are much taller on OP tire vs. mine where the gearing now 3.39 to the ground for him vs 3.69 to the ground for me. EGT are a mostly drag in his case then the engine load is high side for holding cruise timing which will make it hotter, this makes the timing retarded and EGT's higher. He's running the same turbo technically as I am and the same injectors. This leaves all that out. What is different? Is final gearing and tire size. Now I'm comparing Apples to Apples. Him: 2nd Gen Me: 2nd Gen Him: 150 HP injectors Me: 150 HP injectors Him: Hx40 turbo Me: Hybrid HX35/40 turbo Him: Quadzilla Me: Quadzilla Him: 275 70 R18 3.39:1 final ratio Me: 245/75 R16 3.69:1 final ratio

Secret... I've not done this yet either but just get Air Brake Line it much stronger and holds up longer without cracking. Just use small pieces of rubber vacuum hose to join the ends.

Won't be long I'll be leaving the 300k family for 400k.

Might be true but not the same engine, not the same HP/TQ or not the same gears so it doesn't work on a 2nd Gen at all. Apples to oranges don't work.

Same with AirDog design also... Prefiler before the pump and then the main filter after the pump.

If I had tire capacity weight at pressure amounts I could use my truck weights to finish out the math.

Vacuum discharge dumps right into the crankcase. The vacuum pump turns into an air compressor when there is a vacuum leak.

Do it by weight...

As for the high idle switch jump over to the support ticket. Which I'm going to bet the P0113 is from. https://mopar1973man.com/support/

No. It's safe I've already talked to Michael Pliska at ISSPro. A toggle switch is fine to use. Yes way too high. Transmission and differential temperatures can run pretty high. Like my gauge is 100 to 280 transmission temp gauge.

It can vary from day to day. Some of that is moisture your seeing. As long as you not using oil or blow oil out of the truck your fine. If your concerned pull the injectors and do a compression test. Like one member found out that a single cracked piston can pass a blow by test but would fail a compression test. So as long as your truck doesn't look like this I think you are safe.

Like I'm running a HX35/40 Hybrid. Its a 60/60/12 in measurements. I hit 45 to 47 PSI of boost on WOT. Regardless, the actual EGT's while cruising 65 MPH is like 550°F and barely 2 PSI of boost. The main factor in MPG numbers is working your timing higher, then watching the engine load sink. The biggest problem you won't lose is the frontal area with the lift kit and the standing height, the only way to reduce that drag is to drive much slower. All speeds above 55 MPH are exponential for wind drag. Roughly speaking for every 10 MPH above the wind drag doubles exponentially. Hint I know my 55 MPH speeds will net me close to 24 to 26 MPG. Too tough to do with my time schedules.

High boost typically mean lower EGTs. The only way EGTs rise is engine load rises, timing is retarded, or drag is increased. Boost should be left set at 30 to 35 PSI.

Just got all my parts together.

I cleared over 250k miles on my first AirDog 150. Second replacement 3G pump lasted barely 15k miles. Third, now got a 4G pump and the AirDog is rock solid again. I would consider a mechanical pump only if the pump can with a prefilter and 3um main filter like an AirDog. Then keep an electric priming pump. So many times I have seen old mechanical 1st Gens and 2nd Gen with broken primer. Nearly insane to get started again without the primer pump.

Seriously doubt the boost is the problem most people are looking for more boost to keeping the EGT's down. The only measurement he doesn't have is the engine load before and after. Engine load equals EGT's.

Yup...