Mopar1973Man

No. Yes. I've learned that your timing table really doesn't change a lot from tune to tune. If it's already efficient just clone by export and import as a new name. Now the only thing I had to change was load base timing adding more retard so to build boost in low throttle conditions. Quadzilla and stock injectors will be right close to that. (Flywheel power) Already got that with the towing tune I've whipped up. EGT's are much lower with the amount of timing I'm running but there is more to it. The fact I'm running (7 x 0.010) @ 320 bar injectors that means my injection event is late, then more fuel needs more timing on the top end. Producing enough power that I've got to scale back the fuel on the CANBus being it can tear the tires loose with RV in tow. EGT's are very controllable too. Only, trouble is you would have to build your own timing table fitting what you got. EGT's can be controlled by altering the fuel table you can set the EGT backdown limit for 1250 to 1300F and then make a hard pull loaded and see what it measures for backdown. The you can figure out the point of boost you need from that point make the fuel table minus the back down amount.

You could do a poor man blow by. Start the engine. Then unscrew the oil cap. place it in the hole. Does it just sit there? Actual blowby test is hooking out manometer and measuring the amount of water column. Best way to go is get your hands on a compression tester and all the cylinders when the injectors are removed. (425 to 450 PSI typically tight engine) Be aware blowby test will not catch a broken piston. An old member here fought a misfire problem for a long time and spent a huge amount of money. Never done a compression test. Did tons of blowby test which always pass the test but he had a cracked piston that leaked more when the engine got hot. But never failed the blowby test. As long as this isn't happening I won't worry much...

Last trip was 13 MPG from Parma, ID back to home in New Meadows, ID. Quadzilla running my "Economy Tune" which needed a bit of tweak to work correctly. Which now I have I need to know about building a good towing tune.

Typically either the small wires to the grid heater solenoids or the solenoid has failed. might help with cold start issues if the compression is low. Remember air molecules are much smaller than a diesel molecule which is why you have to patient for it to show. Air can leak in easier then diesel can be pushed out.

About 160,000 kms (100,000 miles) those injectors are done. Just because it starts and runs good doesn't mean the injectors are good. Like I found I kept my stock injectors thinking they were good for spares if needed. Come to find out sent them int to be pop tested and sure enough, they all test very low in pop pressure about 260 bar stock should be 310 bar. Now that the injectors are out you can visually look at the crossover tube socket on the injector for damage. Then look at both ends of the crossover tube. Now the tip of the high-pressure lines. Like here in Idaho DOT use a ton of salt I've already had to replace a set of injector lines. Weeping enough to drip diesel fuel also enough that a light hard start was happening in the morning. @dripley just had the o-rings on the injectors leaking where it was pumping diesel fuel into the head area. (Fuel in the oil). Banjo bolt at the back of the head has two sealing washers. PITA to change but keeps it starting. The return tee is a square cut o-rings and kind of spendy. Some just replace with normal compression tee or barbed tee with hose joints. Personally, I would keep the factory tee and o-rings. Suction side leaks are common. The trick is pressurizing the fuel system at the fuel tank after the system has been fully primed up. Electric shop vacuum on blow should have enough pressure to push fuel out a leaking connection or joint. Be patient and have a second guy looking for wetness. If you need to use baby powder to check joints. IAT only turns on the grid heater for intake heat. Timing doesn't come into play till the engine started and running. Once running then the IAT controls the timing and below +80°F (26°C) then the timing jumps an extra +4° advancement. Has no bearing at startup.

Don't bother to replace IAT. Just hook up a live data tool like an OBDLink LX or similar. Then check the IAT temperature in the morning with the ECT temperature they should be the same. Sensors are fine then. 99% of the time IAT sensor is fine and doesn't need to be clean or even messed with. Check the suction side of the pump. Suction side leaks never drip. Then continue to draw air in through the leak and drain the prime back off. This can happen between the lift pump and the tank for fitting or connections. Return lines. The return at the back of the could be weeping or at the tee on the return line. Look at the crossover tubes mating faces and the lines. If the faces are damaged or pitting its possibly to weep air in when shutdown. How many miles on the injectors?

Doing a bit of writing of the fuel map. Then created a performance tune based on my timing map of the economy tune. I figured I'd try it out. Needless to say, when the black smoke cleared up, the tires started to smoke, dump the throttle a bit fast and got a good turbo bark. That the bonus of Quadzilla you can see all the setting and have full control of 180 HP all the way up the power band. If you want to limit fuel you can even just cut fuel at a particular PSI of boost and it fades out. You can just start the fuel table for 100% and all you get is the stock fuel map from the ECM. Total control when Smarty S-03 is a guessing game. I'll admit back in the day Smarty S-03 was a good tuner for a stock truck that the owner didn't want to tap the wire nor get too wild.

The worse I've dealt with is I lost an intake plate bolt and popped out, hit the hood, and fell right back on the manifold laid there. I barely had maybe 5 PSI fo boost and limped home with the missing bolt. Sounded like a fair sized rock hit the hood. "TANG!"

I've heard of it but never blown one yet. All I can say is I figured you needed another clean pair of shorts right?

Yes but you'll still suffer without a full tuner. The ECM will be retarded in timing. Cummins wrote the timing table pretty retarded to keep cylinder pressures down but MPG are rather low. Just being able to add some timing will boost the MPG's. I tip the scale at 17,000 pouns and 52 foot long with my RV and still do 13 o 14 MPG.

HX35W will be a bit better upgrade. Spools just a bit slower but can handle a good solid 35 PSI without much issues. You can push 40 PSI but it gets hot on the EGT's side. OK for sprinting.

I'm just trying to find your source of the noise. If the alternator is removed then the noise should drop to ZERO or nearly. If so that just proves the alternator is still having issues. If you measure at the batteries and still have noise now we have to start digging to the source of the noise. Bench testing the alternator is another good way to verify too. Just make sure they can measure AC ripple voltage.

@Me78569 Wouldn't the xz2002 number be the year it's designed for? 98.5 wouldn't work with a 2002 box.

You could try Module Masters in Moscow, ID they do ABS module repairs and programming. https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/ Then you could try Auto Computer Specialist in Florida they also do module repairs and flashing. https://autocomputerspecialist.com/

Check the voltage at the battery. If it dropped the alternator still the cause. That is a good second test too. No. The speed sensor is only for the PCM for shift data.

This is pointed towards @Quadzilla Power for suggestions... Bluetooth connection problem needs to get fixed. Quadzilla is the only thing with serious connection problems. Bluetooth connection cycles once then stop trying to connect. Takes several tries to get a connection. Mobile device needs to remember last display used. Always have to swipe to the second screen. MPG data erased every key on cycle with 2.8.4 Firmware. MPG data not an option for the normal vehicle selection. ECM/Quadzilla fighting at low throttle (getting worse the better my economy tune gets - bucking) Need to add audio alarms to the Quadzilla (Cute female voice would be awesome! ) Tunes should not need to be exported to backed up. Should be able to save tunes to the internal storage of the device (I've got 256 GB!) Data logging should have to export either again should be an option to save to internal memory. (I've got 256 GB) Coolant alarm should be removed since drops to -40°F at 204°F. Hard to use if it doesn't have the data. Would be nice if both the app version and the Quadzilla firmware version were displayed in the control panel. Then people could tell if an update is needed. The biggest one that drive me nuts is the connection issue. Fighting with the Quadzilla start up, shut down, start up, shut down. Got to wait for the Quadzilla display could not connect message to do your restart. It only tries once then quits. Once it got a good connection going typically it continues but that rare 10% it can just miss and then tries once then quits even if I leave the phone in the truck set up. Bluetooth device should be saved as part of the settings and should have to be selected every single restart. Display thing is annoying too. Startup and have to swipe to the second screen. This should be remembered. Then the bucking. The more and more I get closer and closer to the optimal MPG number the engine load is getting less and less. It now to a point when cruising city streets you have constantly be accelerating or deal with the Quadzilla bucking pretty hard on the driveline. My typically 25 to 35 MPH engine load is now in the 5% to 11% which is below my idle engine load and bucking can get pretty bad some times. I know it the ECM and Quadzilla fighting because Level 0 doesn't do it at all.

@pepsi71ocean like I've found out with 320 bar injectors you are coming up short on the timing. When the injectors are popped that high your cruise timing have to jump way up. I'm running now 23° to 25° worth of cruise timing and now just passing 21 MPG. Just no way a Smarty S-03 can get you the timing you need to gain full efficiency.

Unhook your alternator and test again. Might have replaced the diodes but the brushes, slip rings, etc can still cause issues. Then the output speed sensor on the transmission could cause shift issues too.

Remember one thing... Boost does NOT create power. Excessive boost does nothing. FUEL makes power and the boost is created keeps the EGT's in check. Yes, you need a Quadzilla (or a tuner of some sort), then the boost elbow, and a good set of injectors (if you have 100k or more miles on yours).

Meaningless without a tuner. If you can't boost fool then the fuel will be cut when the ECM see too much boost.

Have the injectors removed and sent into DAP they can pin test the injector nozzles for size. There is no other way being that stock bodies might have aftermarket nozzles.

Can't have both. Can be stock powered and expect lot of power towing.

Replace the sensors as a pair. Retest. If it's still there then replace the bearings as a pair. If one bearing is bad the other is close by to failure.

@Dieselfuture is right on the mark. With Dieselfuture... Quadzilla Adrenaline 7 x 0.010 Injectors @ 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 4 Inch exhaust BHAF 13.68 MPG towing my RV - 31 foot Jayco Eagle @ 8,000 pounds. 21.32 MPG running empty Making roughly 500 HP to the ground.