Mopar1973Man

Basically the new version is a Ford Starter Solenoid. Pass the high current power lead of the grid heater through the high current studs the wire a toggle switch for the smaller control studs. Bingo. ECM still sees the grid heater solenoids no codes. You can turn off the grid heaters at any time.

Nothing is every attach to my batteries. All hooked up in the PDC box where it should be. My batteries are clean. Too bad your in Texas I would be more than happy to fix that mess and make it go away.

I would be concerned with the P1488. Double check all your electrical connections for the batteries and ground make sure they are good. Then clear the errors and try again. If it returns then you might end up sending the ECM to Auto Computer Specialist.

4G AirDog is a good pump. Just don't want anything to do with the 3G pumps those are the ones with serious issues. My old 2G pump ran for a very long time before failure. I've replaced plenty. Diaphragm fails and the fuel starts pumping fuel into the crankcase. Another common is person changes a fuel filter or runs out of fuel and the primer lever is broken change the fuel pump to get it started. Not to mention the VE didn't require much pressure (about 6 PSI) or volume. (no high volume return).

I've seen where conditions were right and reduced power and kind not are strong. Hard telling if its a suction air leak or was it the steel lines next to the hot exhaust. Never has a hard start. Only occurred when it was hot out and pushing the fire truck hard up hill to the fire. Fine on cooler day and not pushing hard.

Correct. When you place a liquid or fuel in a vacuum state then the boiling point goes down even lower. This is why long suction lines for either diesel or gasoline is a bad idea. When a fuel is place into a pressure state then the boiling point rises. Hence why vapor locking no longer happens with gasoline engine at 40 to 60 PSI of injector pressure from the fuel tank to the rail. Compared to fuel pump on a the side of block and the entire run of the steel line is in mild vacuum state and the boiling point is reduced too low and the vapor locking start early. Just remember vacuum is what we use to remove water from A/C system because it will cause water to boil at a very low temperature like 70*F. Just like the coolant system a 16 PSI cap help to raise the boiling point of water up above 212*F with coolant it rises even more.

Heat is what breaks down the fluid. This why it need to be changed every 30k miles. Remember the power steering gear box hold a bit more than 1 quart empty. Plugged up ports in either hydrobooster or steering gear box will create heat from lack of good flow. Excessive requirement for hydro-assist will create heat. Excessive pedal pressure, steering on larger tires, holding the steering at full lock, etc. Hmmm... I guess I'll have to grab my IR temp gun.

Depend on how hot...

Really simple if you want to watch he pop pressure of your injectors. Just plug in a live data tool and watch the engine load. If it falling below 5% engine load the injectors are below the lower limit. If they start gaining idle RPM like instead of 800 RPM your getting 850 RPM then the injectors are well below 260 Bar.

Cruise control is controlled by voltage. The buttons on the steering wheel create a different voltage for each function. If the PCM happens to get the right voltage for turn on, set, accelerate, etc. then the PCM would just continue to roll with the settings.

Bad clock spring?

Remember the amount of torque trapped in the transmission depends on the final gear ratio also. Its very possible to have 700 foot/pounds of torque but destroy the transmission because your running oversized inch tires. I know 285's isn't huge but just placing the point out there.

I would call @dieselautopower and ask Jacob where they get there shims.

Bearing sloppy? Groove in the output yoke?

Yup. I was thinking of just covering with new fabric instead. Red neck engineering.

Yup. Mine even on a manual is the same way.

Also the hotter your running transmission wise the more energy is being lost to generating heat in the transmission.

OMG... @JAG1 inserted bolt in the intercooler. Feeding turbo a china hose clamp. Breaking main shafts in transmissions VP44 smoke shows Yeah maybe you should stay away...

Can you show me how the old panel was held in place? Photo please of the old door panel piece.

I'm betting it means there is no Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) for this.

No kidding! Nice! Gives me an idea for my 1996 Dodge 1500 5.9L ...

Storage amount is listed on the subscription profile for each. Like Silver... Yeah there typically set for 17 PSI from the start. 3G pumps have a bearing and seal issue. the 4G pump is upgraded to double seals and better shaft bearing.

That is what makes this website go around. The experiences and knowledge is shared by all. This reduces the stress and guessing of where to get services and repairs done for a fair price and good turn-around time.

They got a about 7 day turn around on my PCM that I burned up. Damage beyond repair but they had a replacement and it flashed correctly.

There is a reason the VP44 was a upgrade to the p-pump. The VP44 has dynamic timing and way better tuning over a mechanical P-pump. Yes I'll admit P-pump is a awesome platform for racing or competition use but difficult to tune. Then with VP44 and Quadzilla you can take advantage of up to 32° BTDC timing where the P-pump is static and locked to one timing. P-pump can put down more fuel than VP44 but VP44 is more street friendly and you don't end up giving up things like cruise control. Like my truck if I p-pump the engine cruise is fly by wire so cruise control would be lost. Or grab your mobile device and tune... ...can't be done on a p-pump... P-pump you need to measure the lift of the pump piston and pull the gear and preposition on the shaft.