Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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LED Lighting Parts List LED marker light LED Taillight Heavy duty LED flasher As for installing it just simple change of parts. The flasher is found in your driver side of the dash. If the flasher been there a while then it might be difficult to remove. Just take your time and work the flasher it will come out. Pull the stock flasher out and plug in the new flasher. As for the taillights you need a T25 screwdriver. There are 2 screws holding each taillight in place. The outside edge is a set of pins into the body. Need to be firm but careful and pull the light straight out. Top bulbs are your tail lights simply twist the socket and it should come out. Simply change the bulbs out. Leave the bulb out of the taillight for testing. Front marker lights for stock marker there is a Phillips screw holding the light in place on the bottom. Then just pull forward. Twist the socket and remove. Now change out the bulb. Again leave the bulb out for testing. Aftermarket headlight you might have a unit like my own which the marker light is part of the headlight. This you'll need to remove the 3 10mm bolts and pull the headlight forward to gain access to the marker lights. After that, it is just like the stock marker light. Twist the socket to remove and change the bulb out. Now testing you want to simply turn on the parking lamps and see if the front marker lights are both white and the rear taillights are dim red. Now you can hit the hazards and check and see if the front marker lights turn amber and the rear taillight flash bright red. If any of the bulbs are backward pull them out and turn then 180 and resocket the bulb. This should fix this problem. As for the bulbs listed above, I'm using a switchback bulb in the front marker lights. This bulb will be white light on parking lamps and when a turn signal or hazards turn on the bulb automatically switches from white to amber. A member brought up laws might be in effect for white marker lamps in front. Might want to check with local laws on this.- 5 comments
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Napa Number - EP-27L https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NF_EP27L Full article here with all the info in one spot.
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Won't happen. You guys can keep your big cities. I've got plenty of jobs up here I can do but just need the time. Even Mom refuses to move down there because of its horrid and city crime is way high. I've talked to enough people down in the Ontario area and the cost of living is nearly double. Those are my bills. Give up the house so I double my bills... Not a good plan. Power (sharply reduced in the summer - hydro/solar power) Phone / Internet Insurance I've already got an idea on cost of living down there which is nearly double what the cost is here even with the travel of going back and forth. What I NEED is a company that is willing to do her dialysis at home (In home health care). Insurance will pay for everything and already been authorized. Just need someone to do the training and then Mom would have dialysis at home and I can go back to work that simple. I found one in Grangeville but I'm having doubts on them coming through again. I've been authorized for the machine and all the equipment and supplies. Just need the body to do the job. The stupid part is DaVita has a clinic in Ontario, OR. So the built a new one. The new clinic is just across the river in Fruitland, ID. How fricken stupid. There is many people up here in this area that travel for dialysis. I know of one in Council, ID. I know of a few in McCall, ID. Still we can't get DaVita to build a clinic in McCall, ID how stupid! Jeff is another guy I know down at DaVita and he's got to drive an hour or more from Brogan, OR for treatment every other day.
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Because I'm always talking about Ontario, OR which I down there 3 days a week. I'm in Central Idaho north of New Meadows, ID. Use to own a 1973 Dodge Charger SE. Yeah, I remember those times rather well.
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I personally think there is way too much hype on spec for transmission lubricants being that Dodge Dealer's dropped the original Castrol and Texaco fluids for both transmissions and then changed over to ATF +4. Even the G56 in the 3rd gens stated at ATF +4 fluid as well even though most find out that it spec'ed for GL-4 fluid as well. Even back not long ago the GetRag 360 was 10w-30 engine oil in the 1st gen trucks.
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You not locked to name brands either. You can use 50 SAE transmission fluid which I've been running now for the last 120k miles. Same stuff used in big Eaton Fuller transmissions.
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Diesel Auto Power (Jacob Kidd) bought the Quadzilla Power Company. The abilities of timing and fuel management. Compared to Smarty or TST you have a much better range of timing and fuel control to the point that most of us have smoke free tunes that make serious power.
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Hence why the thread was started... I'll give you this one. I started digging the syncros are different. But I'm not sure what they are made of yet. Still digging.
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I would be thrilled to death to be like most people. At least most people get paid for the 40 hours a week. I get ZERO. Nothing for my 40 hours and attempt to survive on mere 8k a year. There is a huge difference. I've got no problem working 60 or 80 hours. Been there done that. To work and not get paid is horrid. I would love like hell to go back to working 40 hours a week and having a paycheck. I figure somewhere down the line there is a balance the Good Lord will provide. I've got to take care of MoparMom she is the only family I've got left and she took care of me for all those years its only right to take care of her in the time of need. I even took care of my Dad when he died of cancer back in 2004. Then toss in my medical and her medical this is getting rather tough. Like I'm hoping today I can get a project done on a 2010 Ram truck and get it running for the owner since a local gent managed to delete it and leave the truck in a state of non-running. Nickle and dime my way...
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Yeah... That's the problem you need distance from your last snubber to allow the remaining pulses to fade out.
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Might check your local Dodge dealer. As of lately, they are loading both NV4500 and NV5600 transmission with ATF+4 now. Must not be very different.
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NAPA heavy duty flasher. That's it.
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Maybe you should tell those pup's out there rolling massive coal down the highway. They are not legal tunes when crap like that happening. Anything that produces tunes that produce excessive smoke is illegal. Yes anything that modifies the fuel and creates smoke is illegal. Even changing out for larger injectors.
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I got Eric at Vulcan Performance to make it for me. Its just a piece of angle iron with 2 holes that are tight fitting to the double female NPT fittings. Eric lightly tack welded the fitting and just screwed it to the fender.
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Heck if I was to heed every single law might as well just close up shop and not do anything. Just the fact of this website and promoting high power diesels and tuning is illegal in all states. Any form of altering the ECM software is illegal. What we are doing is a federal offense for modifying the stock tune on the ECM. Do we still do illegal tuning? Of course. Just changing to BHAF is illegal. Heck lets just bring out the fact that I'm smoking herb too. That illegal in the state of Idaho. Doing it for medical reasons. Do I worry about that legal problem? Not really. Heck, even my high idle kit is illegal. Because it alters the ECM sensors and its ability to control the engine.
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Glow shift are poor quality from the get go. Then you never want to install a sensor at the tap point. You want at least 5 foot of tubing between the last snubber to the sensor. This stops the water hammer from beating the sensor to death.
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Where does everyone think I have spare time? 3 days a week 40 hours a week I'm stuck driving back and forth to Ontario, OR to keep MoparMom alive. The chances of me even getting close to Cally right now is so low that be like me winning a billion dollars on the lottery that I don't even play. As for the gun laws and my open carry, I'll continue doing exactly what I've done for the last 5 years or so. I'm not even going to worry about it. Heck, I know of a member on the site that is deeper trouble than I am. Again I'm not even going to worry about it.
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Both have carbon fiber syncros.
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Not going to even worry about it. Been doing it this long and never had one problem.
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Link please...
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Seriously, I wish I would have done this sooner. Wow! I love the front switchback bulbs. Those are totally awesome bright white in parking lamp mode. Turn signal makes them switch to amber and flash normally. Then when done its switches back to white again. Awesome bulbs. Kind of gives this old truck a modern appeal again. Kind of like the halo lighting or modern switch backlight on newer vehicles. The rear red LEDs turned out good and plenty bright. No longer have to think about blown tail lights. These should last a very long time.
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Currently got an open spot on my new grille for one...
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ECT and IAT values would be helpful. Odometer and amount of miles on the injectors would help. If the injectors are over 100k to 150k miles time to replace them. Poor spray pattern can do weird things and weak pop pressures. Valve guides and valve seals can also create oil smoke which is white. Then bad injectors can cause white smoke too. The difference is the smell of the smoke one smells like raw unburnt fuel and the other smells like oil.
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Too much timing. Lack of timing control with the XZT. Try turning XZT OFF and retesting I bet it goes away. Which this points to timing.
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All u-joints are different. Rear shaft is different from the front shaft. The axle shafts are different as well. As for me, all the OEM stuff lasted the shortest. I ended up replacing all the OEM u-joints before 50k miles. Ball joints barely lasted 150k miles and failed now my cheap Rock Auto ball joints are going to beat OEM hands down. The only thing that lasted long is the OEM tie rod ends at 350k miles.
