Mopar1973Man

All member need to surf the site being there is so much here on the site for info.

Salmon River Fire Department had 3 of these military trucks used for firefighting purposes and used 2 of them for water tenders about 1,000 gallons of water. Then the 3 truck was an actual fire engine with a full pump panel and all only held about 400 gallons of water. Man I missed the days of that wild gear box and the shift patterns. Most guys would get hung up with the strange shift pattern.

Yes @W-T did have his house burn down in the fires in California (Paradise CA.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camp_Fire_(2018)

I've only seen one truck in my time with an EGR valve on the 12V 6BT engine. I would check but typically the 6BT did not come with an EGR valve. If you do have to install a valve I would have to tell you a little secret on how to do it so it pass visually but the EGR doesn't flow any exhaust gases into the manifold. Sadly enough I will admit there is nothing gained by a EGR system on a diesel but enhanced wear and decreased MPG's. Just think if you introduce exhaust gases to a fire it going to reduce the bang of the fuel and not burn well.

Just a heads up I've got the part books here on the website so you can look up factory part numbers for your truck they are located here... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

Ouch. That was painful. At least its repaired and running good!

Will admit that the 3rd Gen Pumps had issues with the shaft seals and bearing. Once fuel starts to seep out of the seal a little bit, the fuel will wash out the bearing eventually. Now the 4th Gen pumps have been upgraded with dual bearings and upgraded seals. I'm currently running a 4G AirDog 165 pump on my 150 GPH base with no issues.

I will admit it's in good shape. Needs a bit of maintenance and effort. Other than that the owner had some medical issues and now really can't afford to keep the truck.

Try again. Lol. You will never know. Might be different color hair. I've got several now I keep people guessing now.

I would relay phone number let the owner and you to discuss.

I've got a local gent that wants to sell his truck and asked me to give a shot at finding an owner for him... 1991 Dodge 250 5.9L Cummins 1st Gen 5 Speed GetRag transmission 4WD Approximately 300k miles.

Abandoned mining town. Look up Florence ID and you'll see where I'm at. I'm on the west side of Florence ID. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence,_Idaho

No clamps needed.

It does because of volume of the bigger pumps like AirDog or FASS. Remember you only burn rough between 0 and 10 GPH. The rest of the volume of fuel is return as long as there is 14 PSI or more behind the overflow valve. I'm running 14 to 20 PSI. AirDog 150 base with a AirDog 165 pump (4G). Big part of the return happens at the AirDog but since fuel is making multiple passes the fuel gets polished in the 3micron filter on my AirDog. Typical VP44 will last about 250k to 350k miles.

Bad product. Marvel Mystery Oil Rated at 678 HFRR score which is not an improvement at all. I'm on the side of I don't trust Blue Chip being he does sell used PSG units. A certified rebuilder can't sell a used PSG.

Gotta double check. Are you testing after the truck has been driven and fully warmed up? You need to take the truck out fully warm up the engine allow the battery to recharge and get the grid heaters turned off. This will skew the results being a grid heater solenoid can produce a jump like you call out 08 mV AC just from the solenoid magnet collapsing from the disconnect of the power. At the same time when you start your test did you leave the engine running and not shut down and restarted? This is why you leave the engine running because now if you are shutting down and restarting the engine even a warm engine and IAT is even above 60*F it's possible for the PCM to read the battery temperature which might be low in temperature and trigger grid heaters on the next start up. Again this will skew results.

All compressor jobs I've ever done always has the sticker over the hole that you add the oil to. On the 2nd Gen Dodges both 12V and 24V the oil is added in the side of the body. There is a plug in the side of the body and this places the oil in the right place. Never add oil in the lines always add the oil to the compressor in the side port. So the compressor has to be evacuated and pull the compressor and lay it on its side to fill the oil in the body of the compressor. Then the plug was replaced and snugged up. Now you can install the compressor. If there was trash or as we call it Black Death in the high-pressure side. The entire system requires a flush of all the debris. Most compressor rebuilders require a whole host of parts to be replaced as well. The condenser is going to be full of metal and debris. Orfice tube / Expansion Valve should be replaced because the filter or the valve will be plugged up with debris. There are filters inside the accumulator that should be replaced too because of debris settling in the bottom. Then all lines of the system are blown out with an expensive A/C line flush. Secret you can use Lacquer Thinner too but I will admit either way you will need to change the oil in your vacuum pump in any case. When you pull a vacuum the solvents will turn gaseous and come out into the oil of your vacuum pump. Contaminate your vacuum pump oil.

For the most part correct. The Bosch 815 test stand is about $600k dollars for one stand which does take 3 hours to test and calibrate the New PSG unit on top. If a vendor will not tell you where your pump was rebuilt and if the rebuilder is a Bosch Certified I would not buy a pump from them no matter how cheap they can make the price. I still see a lot of this going on where places are selling super cheap pumps that seem like they are good rebuilds but fail shortly after warranty. This is why I ask any vendor I deal with... "Where is the pump rebuild with what company?" "Is this shop a certified Bosch Rebuilder with a test stand in the shop?" I can say since I ask questions and only buy a quality pump that has been on the test stand I've seen my pumps last like OE was barely 48k miles. The second Pump I got from the warranty of the Dodge dealer lasted another 243k miles after the AirDog 150 fuel pump. Now I bought a 3rd pump from Diesel Auto Power some time ago during my Mom's medical problems. I'm still on that pump to this day. I'm now at 470k miles and getting ready to land on earth after a trip to the moon and back. (Total distance is 476k) VP44 is rock solid pump only if you take care of the things below that could kill a VP44... 1. Good fuel pressure and volume - 14 PSI to 20 PSI to keep the overflow valve open to keep the VP44 PSG electronics cooled and the mechanical stuff lubed up with fresh cooled fuel. Make sure you not pulling fuel from inside the sender basket it tends to be much hotter than the rest of the fuel being the sender has all the heater fuel from the head. 2. Good Filters or double stacking - Like myself, I've got an AirDog 150 and got a 3-micron filter on the AirDog, and running a 7-micron NAPA filter in the stock fuel filter can. This catches more debris than anything. Being I'm not pumping from the sender basket my filter last much longer at close to 60k to 70k miles on a filter change. 3. Good Lubricity - This is where the 2 Cycle Oil Theory got started being the LSD diesel was being replaced by ULSD diesel which the lubricity dropped to as low as 636 HFRR and Bosch requires <460 HFRR to be non-damaging. The US made the standard ~520 HFRR which is still too low. If you add a 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil to the fuel you'll reduce pump wear. 2 cycle oil was tested and came out at roughly 380 to 400 HFRR in the score. So this passes even Bosch requirements. Please do not use solvent-styled additives (Xylene which is a common Pour Point Depressant) like cetane boosters or anti-gel products. These tend to reduce the lubricity and I highly do not suggest blending cetane boosters or anti-gel with 2-cycle oil. After 22 years of living in Idaho with temperatures as low as -40*F, I've never used anti-gel products ever. Never needed cetane boosters either. 4. Clean Power - Yes if you have not done the W-T ground wire mod I highly suggest you do. AC noise will eat PSG and the ECM fairly quickly. Doing this mod will certainly reduce the chances of the PSG failing on the VP44. Anything over a 0.05 AC volt signal is sign of concern!

Test it. Either pull the alternator and have it spun tested. Or find a shop that can do the test on the charging system. The bare minimum would be grab a DVM and measure the AC volts should not be above 0.05 Volts.

Doesn't matter... Do it either way.

Personally I wouldn't do a p-pump on any 24V. I've seen too many trucks converted that end getting parked. Several members here have converted and end up parking the truck. So many things you'll lose and other problems you'll never really over come.

Personally I see several issues with a VGT turbo and where it's located on the engine and why the failures I've been seeing. So far the two this year had burned up controllers and possibly bad bearing/seal issues. How do you expect these turbos to hold up when no one installs a pyrometer and properly cools the turbo after running? How about the fact the controller is tucked in a hot pocket with little cooling. Yeah I know it's got oil and coolant but this doesn't help if the truck is shut down at 600°F EGTs. How about the carbon build up that binds up the vane and cause electrical load issues withe controller trying to move a stuck vane. I highly suggest every run you turn on the exhaust brake and use it every trip. I highly suggest everyone install a quality EGT gauge (pyrometer) and make sure the EGT are down to at least 300 to 350°F before shutting down the engine. Quit buying washable filters or cool air intake so far the ones I've looked at the compressor wheels have been dusted out. Another thing I hear commonly. I want my truck to last so I don't drive it hard. OMG this is part of the problem. You need to work the engine hard enough to get EGTs above 1000°F fairly regular holding that temperature for several miles to burn the carbon out. I've had members tell they ran another person truck hard and ran better after the hard run. Yes it really does help.

I've been busy hauling. Got my first 1.5 cords in full 12 foot lengths. Still got to get more. Beast was out hard at work getting firewood. You see Mark my renter here in the picture. No I didn't forget you guys. I've been organizing things so very soon I can get server work done and things dealt with. Been making phone calls and prepping for the stuff that needs to be handled for the server.

Yeah ATF should not be used it's incompatible with the seals in both the hydrobooster and steering box. I've found a few on the web but not sure if they will fit.

Just make sure you get the slack back. Like I said if you adjust it to the bottom the Allen screw is not going to lift the output shaft with the pitman arm etc. So this why you use a rubber hammer or dead blow to kind of lift that shaft back up a bit to set yor slack. Once you get the 2 turns up from bottom give that a try it should be close.