Mopar1973Man

Time to see some photos of the build...

That's not going to do anything... Steel is not going to soak up oil. Then not to mention the diesel fuel will wash it off the first second the pump runs. It sounds like there is a bad brush or armature problem when your beating on the pump electrical connection is made and the pump runs again.

My problem, I've got to travel 250 to 300 miles per every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday to keep MoparMom alive with dialysis treatments. I'm on a limited budget with the tiny income I can manage scratch up plus MomparMom retirement. I try to do an odd job on Wednesdays and Friday if possible. Actually between the head curl and the gasket just rotting out was my failure. Also needed to valve seals and 18 valve guides which ate the valve seals. But after seeing the cylinder after changing the head gasket. I was tickled pink and no going to look back. Keep rolling forward and onward to the 1/2 million miles.

My winter temps here in New Meadows reach a low of -40*F. Never had a single issue for 16 years or 356k miles. $15 a gallon (Oil change with filter is $65 dollars) for what I buy from Napa. Again though when I cover the number of miles I do the cost of synthetics is too high and makes the cost of operation too high. Then doing oil changes every 5 to 6 weeks. So your oil change is over double the price of mine.

1st, 2nd and 3rd gear is hydraulically controlled within the transmission. 4th gear is electronically controlled by the PCM. I still say to get a hold of @Dynamic and ask him. He'll know exactly what is wrong.

While all you are worrying about synthetic oils and testing I'm heading back from the moon (236k miles to the moon). 356k miles and still rolling. When I'm coving 65k miles per year roughly the whole synthetic oil idea and testing is way outside my budget being I'm spending at least 500-700 a month in diesel fuel alone and then doing oil changes every 7k miles and that's at about every 5 to 6 weeks. More or less the low side of a hotshot driver. After seeing the head off and seeing the cylinders and piston condition I'm not going to even concern myself on the "Premium Oil" I'll just keep doing what I've done for the last 16 years and clear half a million miles.

That's the sad part all the new truck are so darn expensive for repairs any more you need to have a bank loan just to replace turbos.

I wish I could get my hand on a petroleum oil that is 5w-40 for up here. No one sells it. No, I'm not jumping in the synthetic oils way too expensive I'm on a limited budget. I change oil nearly once a month to every 5 weeks. (7k miles) On the 1996 Dodge (V8 5.9L Gas) I've already switched over to 5w-30 and running the 180*F thermostat because I'm running the Mopar Performance PCM and it advances the timing to 40* BTDC cruising at 65 MPH. This has made a huge jump for MPG from 13-14 MPG to 17.1 MPG on my last tank.

Sad I bought my truck in Ontario, OR back in 2002 and Oregon doesn't have any sale taxes at all but as soon as I registered in Idaho I had to cut a check for the full 6% sale tax in Idaho on top of what I paid for all the other doc fees.

Disconnect the return line below the tee and insert a piece of tubing. The only problem the more you do this the more you'll have problems with air leaks later when the o-ring wear out in the fitting. Not really. Just has to be free-flowing.

Well not to take away from the warm fuzzies... Quadzilla EGT gauge is off by +50*F compared to my ISSPro. Quadzilla boost pressure is off above 20 PSi and gaining offset as the pressure rises. Quadzilla coolant temperature is good till 204*F then report -40*F from there on up. CANBus limit. Quadzilla engine load does not report for 98.5 and 99. Quadzilla oil pressure does not report for 2002. Dodge voltage gauge will drop to 8 if the actual voltage falls to 11.99 volts. Dodge oil pressure gauge can vary with engine coolant temperature as much as 40 PSI swing. Personally, I would stick to a quality external gauge.

I like that one more. Two 3-amp charger sockets that just perfect. Even its the same 1.13" size barrel. I was just looking at my 1996 if I could stuff one of these USB chargers in there too.

T-Bred pumps tend to have issues and also have issues with the warranty being voided easy. I'm not sure where they get pumps from if they are a certified Bosch rebuilder or not. If you opt for warranty and return that pump make sure to get photos of the pump and document all numbers so you can challenge them on your pump warranty. I normally suggest either Vulcan Performance or Diesel Auto Power for VP44 pumps. I know both sell Industrial Injection pump which is a certified Bosch rebuilder. Then Diesel Auto Power sells Midwest Injection pump as well which is also a certified Bosch rebuilder.

Not hard enough... That's why it got kinked up.

Heck just figure my 1996 Dodge even though it's a 5.9L V8 gasser I've got good idea it will make it to 30 years. It's already 22 years old and still in awesome shape. The engine just twisted out 17.1 MPG on this last trip and running strong. The odometer has 176,242 miles. The 2002 Dodge is back off the road for a temporary time. When I got home with the RV and used the 4WD the front axles were popping and crunching as the wheel-joints where finally shot after 356k miles. So instead of running again on those and have the shafts beat up the unit bearings, I figure I would just use the 96 for a few days no bigger.

I was just pointing out a common issue I've seen. People like to use rubber hose for lots of things. Like when people attempt to do my crankcase mod with rubber heater hose the net result was some poor member stuck on the Al-Can Highway with the tappet cover gasket blown out and lost most of the engine oil. The only thing that stopped him was the Check Gage light and the Oil gauge being at Zero. So like the same thing happens with trying to get around that return tee in the back of the head. If you use rubber hose and for some reason, the return line should kink shut because of poor fitment then the front seal of the VP44 could be at risk. This is why I tend to suggest that the OEM return tee is kept and not modified. So have fun with your kinky theory...

Then all the restriction of the 6mm ID lines and the banjo bolts don't help it either. Then if it got a suction air leak as the engine load goes up the air leak will get worse and most likely what is stalling the engine out. When the bubble gets to the lift pump the pressure dies off.

Just happened again tonight going to get arm load a firewood. As I got back in the truck and step on the running board it was mist slick and threw me right in the seat.

Prayer the rubber hose never kinks. Sure hate to to see what pressure build up will do most likely blow the front seal of the VP44.

Basically, the USB body is 1 1/8" (1.13"). So if your measuring 1 1/16" (1.0625") that is only another 1/16 of inch to go...

Fan belt Fan assembly from the block. Crank dampener Radiator (optional) I've done mine like I said pull the belt and the fan assembly and left the radiator in. Pull the crank dampener and you should be able to pull the gearcase cover. If you pull it make sure to have a fresh crank seal ready. Now install the crank seal into the cover. Another member had a killer write up showing that you can buy 4 or 5 long bolt cut the heads off and use it for alignment dowels to slide the cover back in place. With the alignment dowels, you can get the seal over the crank much easier. Sad part the pictures are all lost to the Photobucket issue.

Neither. I use a mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing for years. Cost nothing and works every time. It can be done solo even. Basically get an old glass mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing that fits over the bleeder nipple. Poke a hole in the jar lid and slip enough tubing into the jar so the tube can reach the bottom. Now add just enough brake fluid to bare cover the tubing end. Now open the bleeder screw, hook up the tubing. Jump in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal. Since the tube end is submerged in fluid the brake system can't draw air in. Since its easier for the reservoir to supply the fluid than to draw it back from the jar it always flows in a normal fashion. When you empty your jar always leave a bit of old fluid in the bottom. Always remember to check your reservoir after about 5 to 6 pedal cycles you'll be able to move a large amount of fluid quickly. This method works from everything from ATVs to full-size pickups no problems. Now I've had a vacuum bleeder but hated that stupid thing. No matter what you set up for nipples or tubing the bleeder screw always leaked air in past the threads. The only way I was capable of making the vacuum bleeder work was using thick axle grease on the threads of the bleeder screws to seal the threads. This will work on any vehicle but the same issue happens the vacuum typically leaks past the bleeder screw threads. Pressure bleeders are nice but not for the price tag and the requirement of all the special caps you need for every single different reservoir cap design out there. Too much of a PITA and cost to have everything you need to use it. So you limited on the vehicle you can use it on if for example a friend wants you to work in his Ford and you've got a Dodge cap sorry it won't work. So you end up buy more and more adapters just to fit everything that might come your way.

Please? I'll FAX you a cold beer...

I would be looking at the measured amperage draw on that circuit more so than changing the fuse. Something is drawing more power through that circuit and had a weak spot and so it melted and burned up. Look at it this way you reduce the fuse size you most likely keep popping them. If you leave it stock sized it will possibly do the same damage again. You come back to fixing the circuit load and not the fuse.

Here we are with trucks from 98.5 to 2002 and we've got those clunky cigarette light power points. I know some of you have had to replace the cigarette lighter sockets and possibly the power point socket. I'm wondering what the hole in the dash measures out to I want to replace both the cigarette lighter and the power point with a pair of USB charger port. https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Charger-Socket-Power-Outlet/dp/B07FLTTXBD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539385959&sr=8-1&keywords=automotive%2Busb%2Bcharger%2B3%2BQC%2Bflush%2Bmount&th=1 If someone doesn't mind measuring out the hole for me. Now the reason why I'm heading this way is I want to ditch the bulky cigarette light cords. Like my Garmin 42LM is a cigarette cord which I could upgrade to a USB mini plug and buy a 6-foot cord and just plug in. I'm going to convert my Cobra Radar Detector from cigarette lighter plug to direct wire set up. Then my cell phone will have its own QC 3 port and never worry about it. Right now I've got a 3 port cigarette hub at the base of the cup holder. Rather a pain in rear end. If this works out I'll do the same thing to the 1996 Dodge Ram and convert it over to USB charger ports as well. Seems like more and more stuff is now charged on USB sockets and now here you are stuffing cigarette light charger in to convert 12V to 5V. It's time to upgrade.