Mopar1973Man

Basically, you looking to buy a 2001 MAP sensor. 2002 MAP sensors were discontinued.

Rockauto has the MAP sensor for 79 bucks. Or 87 bucks with adapter harness. Might look over there. Ditch the Cummins name save a bit more.

Actually, I do use mine quite bit through the winter time. When I'm sitting in the parking lot I can turn on the driver side map light and work on my laptop. Now with the new laptop with LED lit keyboard I can work without any lights at all. Actually, the trick is to keep the plastic from drying out. If you change out the OEM bulbs and go to LED there is less heat. Then I used silicone spray to hopefully keep the oils in the plastic and getting brittle. 16 years later and mine are still working just fine. Can't be too crummy, can it?

There is no such thing a dumb question. We are glad to help you out. Not a problem and no it wasn't a waste of time I'm sure someone else will forget too. Be thankful it was an easy fix.

I don't rely on the Quadzilla for gauges. This is why I like going headless. Boost (varies as boost climbs), pyrometer (+50*F to my ISSPro EV2 gauge) or vehicles speed (-1 MPH always compared to GPS). In my truck, all 3 of these gauges are off.

In 13 years and 250k miles the pump had zero wear in my AirDog but the motor bearing failed after the shaft seal failed and pumped fuel in the bearing washing it out. Then the motor blew the fuse. The geo-rotor was fine and undamaged after 250k miles. Don't be changing your filters too early this is 15k miles as stated by the owners manual. The filter is still good.

That will only occur if your HVAC case isn't all plugged up with debris or the heater core isn't full of scale build up. Remember scale build-up is caused by pH balance of the coolant going corrosive, not because of mineral in the water being I've never used distilled water, and been using strictly well and creek water for the entire life of my truck. If your city water is highly chlorinated or hard water then your stuck using distilled water. Sorry to say I'm extremely lucky to have nearly pure water flowing down the creek. This customer was having a hard time trying to stay warm in his truck. When I finished with power washing the evaporator and replaced the heater core he then complained that it got too damn hot in the cab and he had to roll down the windows to keep from sweating to death.

Even with my 190*F I've ran for 16 years the vent temperature at 0*F could still be hot. Yeah, that thermometer shows 161*F out of the center vents.

Pull rope? What's that? I turn a key and the engine starts on my lawnmower. Seriously... You might look at the routing of the rope and see if there is a place that got a sharp edge or excessive drag across objects that causes the rope to fail. My old log splitter engine was very prone to this problem just because of the angle the rope left the housing and my pure height of pull upwards. When I got the new 6HP HF engine I turned the starter so the rope is pointing up and rarely now does the rope fail.

I run just the AirDog 150 with the 3um filter on the AirDog then a stock filter in the stock can. I'm not worried about protecting the AirDog 150 being the water separator is the prefilter for the pump. I don't have debris issues being I'm set up for 50k filter changes which is actually too early. The media of the Airdog filter might barely be dark by that time. The stock can will be slightly cleaner but not much.

I'm the reverse of you. I like going headless. No display at all. This way my truck appears to be stock or without a tuner. Now people are really puzzled when they ride with me when that truck takes off like a scalded dog. During my long travels my cellphone does three tasks. Quadzilla, MP3 music and handle phone calls (handfree). I'm completely set for voice commands. All audio is piped into the stereo. It's as close as I can get to a modern luxury vehicle without the price tag. Since I've already got gauges on the a-pillar I've really go no need for the Quadzilla to be displayed. Truthfully I rely on the a-pillar gauge way more that Quadzilla being most of the gauges on Quadzilla are incorrect like Pyrometer (+50*F), Boost (varies as boost rises), Vehicle speed (-1 always), etc.

Are you on level 0? Is your warm up mode set too high? Basically warm up mode hold level 0 till warm up is complete once it completed the the set level is restored. So if the module was unhooked it would revert back to level 0.

Quadzilla lost there place back with the EPA lockdown.

LOL. Studded tires. I always laugh at that. I had one set of studded tires once. When you need to be towed out of a flat parking lot because your studded tires cannot get traction on the ice. Time to give up the idea. Since then I've run just a good AT tire and never looked back.

Transfer case I use standard ATF+3. No need for ATF+4 price and all the friction modifier.

Wiretap isn't a controllable as the CANBus. Basically, you can set the boost pressure its starts at and relationship to TPS. As for the CANBus fuel you can control much better. I might be able to add some wiretap back now with a few tweaks. I've found a way to pull enough retard of timing to build good boost and keeping the EGT's down empty with full wiretap. Again this is way beyond what the Edge Juice can do.

Yes, I can tow up Whitebird with the Quadzilla on Level 3 and never reach 1,200F. It about proper timing and fuel management. My EGT limit is set high at 1400F and no boost limit. As for level 3 it just disables wiretap. The rest of the tune is active. Even Midvale grade and Fort Hall hill. Easy peezy.

Wanna hear strange I'm running 180F thermostat but with the amount of timing I run the coolant temp hangs at 186 to 190 on the pavement when I stop at a light it drops to 175F.

ABS module can't be deleted. Speedometer, odometer, grid heaters, transmission (auto), ECM and PCM require the ABS module. As for the AirBag module I'm not sure if that could be deleted.

The Quadzilla will make you change that head gasket for sure.

You might have to get a OBDII tool that can report the ABS wheel speeds. Then monitor the wheel speeds while you drive then whichever wheel is dropping to zero could be a bad sensor or bad hub. Like mine the bearing was fine but the tone ring broke loose.

Kind of like myself I've got a front end clunk and a bad wheel joint. I still got to fix those things too. Just finished the head gasket and now got keep fixing stuff. Like I could of invested the money I spent on LED's towards control arms. But I didn't I look at other angles like comfort and safety. Yeah, safety takes the top of the list but front end clunk has possed any safety issues as of yet. Wheel joint I'm just being lazy because I know its another adventure of 4 hours of beating on that joint with a 6-pound hammer. Ugh...

I'm going to be in the freeze for the rest of the season. (low of 19*F now).

I would try a run also in the summer of straight 50 SAE and then let the cool weather come on and see how it reacts.

Fix the failed speed sensor or bad tone ring. Every time you turn the key off your resetting the light. If the problem still exist then the light is turned on. Typically a bad speed sensor or failed tone ring like my last failure was.