Mopar1973Man

Oh, come on now. Get out there and get that thing stuff in the dash. Cuss and swear at the old plug getting out of the dash. Then cuss and swear at the new one getting it in the dash. I can see it coming myself too. I'm sure I'll figure out a solution to get it in there.

I also just ordered my USB power point as well. I'll be installing this when I get it. I'm tired of the crappy cigarette lighter plug stuff and going to switch over to USB powered stuff. I still need to order a USB cord for my Garmin 42LM GPS. That will be two less cigarette light plugs to deal with. Be nice to have both on the normal cigarette lighter plug being that shuts off with the key. Where the power point below is constant on power. This happens to be my battery killer...

NAPA thermostat has been excellent replacements. I'm currently playing with a 180*F thermostat. The newest version from NAPA has a much wider mouth than past versions. Never had a NAPA thermostat fail yet. Alway gotten the miles out of them and never left me too cold or overheating.

Still in all... 360k miles and now losing a gasket. No big deal. I've got to get some time and order a gasket from Rocky Mountain Cummins.

Absolutely... What we started out with on Canned Tunes and now moving towards a fully programmable tuner is way better than years gone by where injectors were the factor if a tuner smoked or not. Now you can have much larger injectors and be smoke-free. That way the RV275 injectors are so popular is that was the best injector to stack with a "Canned Tune" tuner and still get a gain of powrr and be smoke free. Now with the Quadzilla Adrenaline guys are reaching 150 HP and 250 HP injectors and still keeping smoke-free to fairly smoke free. @Quadzilla Power is it possible to consider in future cable design that allows the Quadzilla module and bluetooth head moved into the cab? Be great for smog states and cities to be able to hide the module under the dash and just have wires under the hood. Being Quadzilla can run headless makes it a perfect tuner for this case.

Just remember GAWR is the absolute maximum weight of the axles. So even using that number it will be below that specified pressure. As for scales... Just in my travels, I know of at least 4 free scales I pass 3 times a week. Truck scales are every where and if you simply ask a lot of times the shop or shop will hand write down your numbers. Like I know of another scale on a public road in Nyssa, ID you can access and scale on your own. There is another trucker scale over in Horsebend, ID that is always on. Just drive up and look at the display. Scales are everywhere just most people just don't think about it.

Factory configuration... I've covered 360k miles on my truck and its 16 years old. I've replaced... 1 set of wheel joints (357k on the joints when the passenger side failed) 2 sets of unit bearings (roughly 180k a piece) 1 set of ball joints 1 set of tie rod ends 1 set of brake pads 2 track bars

Even my little 1500 Dodge has different front and rear pressures because of very different axle weights.

Scales are needed for either method.

W-T ground mod just reduces the AC noise but bad alternator diodes create the noise. What it was the charge lead ran past the ground lead dumping the AC noise back in the ECM side and fouling the ECM tach sensor and such. I say to disconnect the alternator and go for a test drive. If the weirdness stops then you know its the alternator. As for APPS sensor the only way it will create that issue is if the rheostat is worn out in one spot. Typically you can see it on a live data tool and watch the TPS jump up and down rapidly.

I'm running 7 x 0.0085 injectors (+75 HP) no problem making a smoke free tune.

The red crimp is NOT factory. That one needs to be looked into.

Sensor Ground is not the same as body ground.

AC noise look OK. Kind of high for W-T ground wire mod. It should be closer to 10mV range your showing 34mV most likely as grid heaters hitting. Gumbo is rock solid. No electronics and completely mechanical design. No voltage to set or adjust. Basically your setting the bellcrank angle when you install the timbo APPS.

I can now get 50 SAE maybe a bit below $200 a 5-gallon bucket now. Don't need the flashy "Mobil Delvac" name I can pick up any GL-4 50 SAE fluid and do the same thing. I can cut a ton off the price. Lots of other names out there without the price with the same spec. At any rate it WAY cheaper than factory Mopar Fluid...

Wrong... Scale weight of each axle NOT GVWR!

Test for AC noise.

I think mine is mostly coolant pH issue. This last go around I was way past due for the coolant change being MoparMom's adventure. I know that coolant was way past due and I'm betting the pH level was corrosive enough to eat the head gasket and now the oil cooler gasket. The very thing I preach not to do is the very thing I did...

In my case it's the top side of the oil cooler towards the front. The head is dry.

Ask @AH64ID he's the AND Oil guru.

Rear seat bar make a huge difference in launching with that South Bend Clutch. Much smoother with the rear bar rebuilt.

Thanks for the warning on the oil passage. Ill make sure to watch that close.

I'm not looking forward to doing the front sway bar. I'm beting my clunk noise is there too.

I'll pick up a gasket for that and get it done.

Here is a way to get the pressure close to right.