Mopar1973Man

Coming to a neighborhood near you. Snow line is about 6k in elevation here.

95 will be easy compared to the CR engine.

The only time I pay attention to the WTS is the first start of the day. After that I stab the key, twist, and fire the beast up. Like everyone said above if the WTS is not lighting up instantly the VP44 and the ECM are not booted up and are braindead till at least the WTS light comes on. The very first instruction is to light the WTS up and the check for IAT and battery temp to figure out if grid heaters are required. It possible to have 190*F engine temp and 120*F IAT temp and still get grid heaters pre-start and post start this is based on battery temperature.

I like running the Quadzilla headless. Have a new friend jump in the truck that doesn't know about the Quadzilla and let it rock and roll and they are shocked at the power the truck produces without a visible tune seen in the cab. Not to mention the fact if you use you daily cellphone as your display none the wiser when you pull your cell phone out of the truck. People look at my truck and figure its just stock, small tires, blah... Not much of a target being there is no flash to my truck. I've got ISSPro EV2 gauges with programmable warning lights. I've got my EGT gauge set for warning light at 1,200*F. Then my Fuel pressure gauge has the warning light set for 13 PSI. Then my boost gauge is 40 PSI warning light. Really nice because now you don't have to look at the gauge directly just the level at which the light comes on is enough to warn me. From top to bottom is Boost, fuel pressure and Pyrometer. If the lowest light pops on I know it time to lift my foot and grab a gear down. No need to eagle eye the gauges anymore.

Too high during cranking should be 7 to 12 PSI. Normal under load should be 14 to 20 PSI. 17 PSI is OK for idling but what is it at WOT?

That should be +12V. RED wire is the power from the transmission relay. The PCM only ground or open the Orange/Black lead.

Ummm... You mean F over rebuilt DATSUN right?

If I remember right the power steering bracket is rather strange and required you to reach through the pulley to remove the bolts and then was the pump was detached you can get that bolt out.

Getting ready for my TTS days of driving 250 miles.

Grid heaters alone can pull fuel pressure down.

Trick. When you get the banjo bolt out and set up with the first washer. Now insert the banjo bolt back into the banjo fitting. Now push the fuel return line towards the firewall this will trap the bolt from falling out now you can install the second sealing washer. Now you can screw it back into the head.

Most all data is sent over the CCD network as for the speed signal its used but both PCM and ECM both.

What is the fuel pressure doing during cranking? If you want the video the first cranking event you'll see a air bubble come and the pressure falls off and I stopped the video. Then the second try you'll see it was a good cranking run with it just bouncing.

I guess I'll have to pack the good camera with me and get a picture of the dodge hauling home the 31 foot Jayco RV and Honda Rancher ATV together.

If its a DDRP yes its possible to have this issue. IF its a full FASS or AirDog no this problem doesn't exist. Being that the full series has a power relay that is triggered by the ECM and powered from battery power. Where the DDRP is power directly from the ECM so if the pump is locked or having issues the full load is past through the ECM putting it at risk of damaging the ECM and then also adding load to the PDC.

Sure it's easy. Just drag the photo files to the box below the text editor. It already says "Drag files here to attach or choose files" I really can't show for Windows people sorry to say I've not used a Windows OS in years now. I'm fully Linux.

That is tachometer signal not road speed. Road speed is reported over the CCD network from the ABS to ECM. Another way to tell also is if the ECM do not receive speed info from CCD the grid heater will continue to cycle after 20 MPH.

Exactly why the G56 transmission is filled with ATF+4. Even though Mercedes specs say GL-4 fluid should be used. Even the old Getrag 360 was just engine oil. Thinner viscosity oils always seem to shift better but how good is the protection in extreme heat?

Yes. It's a service manual set I managed to hack off the internet long ago. Without a tach signal, it will not run. That is how the ECM controls fuel amounts of the injection pump. If the idle speed is too low it will throttle up to meet the 800 RPM speed.

There isn't much on the PS inventory I would even suggest using in your fuel tank. Most of that stuff is junk. If you have algae problem I suggest you just pull the tank down and clean it out then trying to kill the algae and filter it out. If the fuel is questionable I suggest just dumping it and starting over.

Yes its totally safe to wash the entire engine. I've been doing for 16 years on my truck with no harm... Just compliments about how clean my engine is all the time.

Could of been a weak connection between the fuse and joint connector #2. A weak connection will make heat.

Head over to the OBDII error codes and do the wire testing.

Yes. So in the OP case the joint connector #2 is the weak connection where the hotspot burned the joint connector. Also the problem line will be the one that took the most heat.

Typically something gets hot because of a few problems. Weak connection, rusted connection or corroded connection. Wrong fuse used or too high of amperage. Like I was talking to @dripley on the phone last night and reminded him of the 1970's fuse issues we had in the past. Like my old 1972 Dodge pickup was popping the blower motor fuse (now I know that means the bearings are failing). But... I knew that I had to use the proper 20 amp fuse for that circuit. End result was the blower motor fuse and wiring went up in smoke. Did you know that glass cartidge fuse were given up because of double rating for the blade style ATC fuses? What caused my failure in the 1972 Dodge was that I grabbed a 20 amp 120V fuse and not a 20 amp 12V fuse. What the difference Wattage it takes to blow the fuse. 120 volts x 20 Amp = 2,400 watts to blow the fuse 12 volts x 20 Amp = 240 Watts to blow the fuse So the circuit had 10 times the power now and I let the Magic Smoke out of the Wiring. Back to the OP issues... You can have a weak connection somewhere and mass amount of heat is generated from current flow. Back to the weak connection issue.