Mopar1973Man

Body screw or bolt. I used the bolt holding the PDC to the fender.

OMG. That must have sucked. Hanging over the engine and pull the EGR cooler and manifold just to do two freeze plugs. I hope you get paid properly for this job.

Bring the beer... I'll do it.

It should look nice and clean... Yeah there is nothing on the alternator charge stud because the W-T ground wire mod has been done. This can become a 140A protected stud now too.

Nice! That will do it.

So you need to buy those from Alaska right?

So throw 10 gallons in the tank and see if it makes a difference.

On my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 I'm planning some time this winter to do all fresh air brake tubing to replace all the vacuum lines. I've got vinyl tubing for now but engine heat does weird things to the tubing. Now that I've studied it a bit more I can clean up the vacuum routing a bunch. Way too many long runs and too much ran on a single connection which is a poor design which I followed. Being there is like 6 ports in the manifold I can separate a bunch of this and route it away from heat.

Move the fuel pump from the positive post to the large stud in the PDC. This way your battery terminal are not choked with four tons of accessory wires.

If you got a stock sender I've seen where the plastic tube cracks and sucks air where its cracked and gets worse as the fuel level drops. I've seen a few trucks like this.

Don't even see the interstate. 85 MPH is 2,400 RPM. 65 MPH is perfect 2,000 RPM. 55 MPH is 1,700 roughly. Even with the 235's or 265's interstate travel always pulled it down. One of the few reasons I had MoparMom moved from Boise to Ontario for treatment. It's cut my overall cost of operation considerably. So from my records, I was spending $740 a month in fuel running the I-84 interstate. Now keeping to the 2 lane US 95 highway and not driving interstate I'm as low as $384 in fuel a month. Speed is a HUGE factor. But the funny part is my lowest cost per mile is 12.6 cents per mile and the highest is 18.0 cents per mile (excluding towing) regardless of speed. Only 5 MPH sooner. Not a drastic change. But yes, towing is way better. I don't have to downshift. Before I had to downshift every trip through the Council to Tamarack canyon. 5th was too tall and 4th is just about right. Now with the tires, I can leave it in 5th all the way.

ST tires don't mean to inflate to max pressure. Like my RV came with Load Range D's and max inflation was 65 PSI but I would only inflate to 60 PSI. Then I upgraded to Load Range E's max inflation is 80 PSI and now only inflate to 65 PSI. Even doing the math on Max Vehicle Weight Capacity of the RV I still only need 60 PSI to be safe. Even on the truck and cars, I've never had an explosive failure. Yeah, I've ran over rocks and had big holes cut in the face of the tread. I've had sticks stabbed in the side wall. Not even once in my life have I had a tire violently explode.

Like my truck with all the accessories, I've got it don't take long for a GPS, radar detector, and few other small things to eat up the batteries. That is the reason the two discharges on my batteries. The first cycle ran then to absolute ZERO volts nothing left... Then the second time was down to about 6 volts. Both cycles did there damage. Batteries still start the engine just fine under normal conditions but I'm expecting one day to get a bit weak cranking in the cold winter. There is a reason Dodge put those nice fuse clips in the dash. Those are there to pull the fuses out of the IOD and ABS to cut the bleeding load that eventually wipe out the batteries. As in my case, I should of pull my cord to the power point which is constant 12V. This is why I'm working into getting the new power point. This will be put in the cigarette lighter so the power is cut with the key.

Grab a beer and sit on my porch. I'm sure you can find something. Take a ride on ATV behind the house I'm sure you can find something. Heck everyone always gets excited watching the elk across the road from my place and drooling. Joe Albertson as in the grocery store owner has a place across from me. Personally, I'm not the hunting nut.

Stock pickup tube in the sender is just plastic. I know this is modified but you can still see the stock tubes hanging there. As for the drawstraw its 1/2-inch plastic straw.

All I can say is Ubuntu Linux 18.04 can already open and print PDF natively. It's no big deal to "print to file" as a PDF. No software required.

Thank you @AH64ID...

Yeap... You got yesterday's Idaho morning. It was a mere 19*F in New Meadows, ID when I got up in the morning and check the highway camera. Ugh. Like you should get a warmer morning we started at 33 today.

The only instability I've got currently is my mistake. I bent my spring the wrong way and got a high point in the center which causes the check ball to float off to one side so sometimes my pressure will drop and hang low till the check ball gets back to center again. That the only problem currently I've had. Past issue was pump head failed after 13 years of service. I've got a Raptor sitting in the shop on the shelf with a blown shaft bearing and shaft seal. Raptor's for some reason have a shaft seal so hard it cuts the motor shaft causing the fuel to leak into the shaft bearing which now washes out the bearing till it fails. I quit recommending Raptor pump long ago after seeing the 3 local ranchers lose pumps. Then went to suggesting AirDog and FASS. The only problem I've had with FASS 150 pump is the filters hanging in the damage path problem either the filter strikes the ground or ground debris (or log) in offroad use or the filter are exposed to extreme cold and gelling fuel problem are more common. I've seen FASS filter encased in snow and ice from the front tires flinging the ice for miles.

I've got to ask what temperatures are you seeing?

I'll admit your right extra filter change is no harm there. Yeah my own words, but first where did the dirty engine come from? So with that statement, this potential issue can be found with synthetics too? Just chalk it up to as long as you keep the oil changed these "potential problems" are nill at best regardless if you use petroleum oil or synthetic. This is the only thing I want to point out. Also, I'm base my finding on all the hundreds of engines I've worked on from gasoline to diesel engine. Not just my own truck but all the trucks and cars even motorcycles even small engines. I've pulled the valve covers on and changed valve cover gaskets, adjusted valve lash, etc. remember I work on a lot of different vehicles and engines. In truth what you speak of @AH64ID is pure owner abuse where someone doesn't change oil or changes extremely late constantly. I've seen a few engines like this but extremely rare. The whole fact of finding an engine with sludge or debris from oil issues is extremely rare. Like the photos below I tend to watch what other shop mechanics run into... Yes, it does exist but first you must abuse the engine.

Your missing what I'm saying... What I'm saying is just because petroleum products are used doesn't mean there are issues. Yes, your statements might have truths... But the fact is petroleum products are not the evil damaging products that create all these horrible sludge, and random problems. That's what I'm trying to get across. When a vehicle is taken care of it will last a long time even with petroleum products. Synthetics are a better oil I'm not going argue that. But today petroleum oils are not like back in the 1970's...

Well heck then get the engine started in reverse and you can rewind that whole mess and the odometer too.

LOL.. Again... Another one a laugh at. biodiesel "cleaning ability" again first there has be something dirty in the tank. (Slime, algae, or physical dirt etc.) I've not found any truth in that either. As manner of fact all the fuel tanks I've opened up and installed draw straws have been clean. Yes, I've installed a lot of FASS and AirDog systems locally. No truth in that claim either. Yes i've use Biodiesel from over on the Oregon side many times. Still change fuel filters at 60k miles. Ok, Opps... I'll admit that one. But still goes back there has to be something dirty inside the engine or sludge to have to change the filter early again... What I'm trying to point out is petroleum oils and fuels do not mean there is going to dirt, sludge or debris found.

The funny part is if you talk to a VP44 rebuilder they claim the wiretap put undue strain on the pump. Which to this day no one could ever prove it just used as a way to prevent wiretapping before warranty. With all the HP junkies out there and all the tapped tuners on the market there has never been a pump failure due to wiretapping. Maybe from shorting wires out... But never from a tuner aspect that I've heard off. You now got vendors like DAP that sell pumps at an increased price with wiretap warranties. Thousands of tapped VP44 can't be wrong. Like in the past a lot of pump vendors use to use the "blown diaphragm" claim to why a pump warranty was voided. Now since my article on the truth that it a "steel plate" seems that cliche' finally died with the truth.