Mopar1973Man

No. As you seen in my picture you have to remove the entire HVAC case so you can flip it over and remove like 15 Phillips screws. Then you can open it up and remove the heater core and evaporator and wash the entire case out. When I do go that far I lube the pivots of all the doors so they don't stress the vacuum motors or the stepper motor.

Actually since its common rail that mean all injectors have constant common pressure. This means if the injector(s) wear out and start to hang open this means those cylinders will be sprayed with fuel all the way through the 4 cycles of the piston. Intake, Compression, Ignition/Power, Exhaust. The injector never closes.

Just wait... That little oil leak will cost you later. As the oil soaks on the rubber mounts like engine mounts, transmission mounts and even like me currently the control arm bushing. It will rot the rubber and typically will cause transmission mount tear. Engine mounts will sag. Like in my case the control arm is now clunking where its mashed the rubber.

The fact you looking at about $3,500 to just replace the injectors. BBI 0.5 Stage injectors (mild increase) https://smartyresource.com/store/product/32-bbi-injector-set-stage-05-03-04/ True new Bosch factory injectors. https://smartyresource.com/store/product/64-2003-2004-stock-bosch-injectors/ No one around here has $3,500 extra laying around for injectors. I know of at least 2 trucks that are now parked and no longer used. You can buy a used Ford Ranger truck for that much... Here I am with a older 2nd Gen... For ten times less... https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-75hp-aftermarket-performance-injectors-7x0-0085-vco-vp7x85vcoa

Reason why...

Now that changes the topic a bit. Like my experience with tire I was always the miser type looking for the sales and cutting cost figured the same thing. Tires are tires. Nope. So wrong I learned. As you start to reach back into the name brands like I found Hankook ATm have a harder compound and wear like iron. Where cheap tires are much softer compound and tend to wear quickly. There are two tires I tend to avoid now is the Cooper STT and the Toyo M/T being they are both made the same great tread pattern good for offroad use but extremely heavy because of the extra steel belting for protection offroad. You'll lose on average about -2 MPG for these tires. This what bought me back to A/T which was a good mix between road radial and something that could handle snow, mud and such. Still the compound of the rubber need to be hard enough to give long life. Back in the motorcycle days. I use to keep a set of R compound tires on hand (Racing Compound) typically lasted about 7k to 15k miles and then were spent. Extremely soft compound and excellent traction. When I finally gave up illegal canyon racing and street racing I changed over to touring tires. They are so darn hard of a rubber I had troubles changing tires by myself and typically sent the wheels in to be changed for me. @Greenlee I would suggest weighing out your truck and you'll see what I mean about axle weight and tire stance. Now measure out the contact patch and figure out your weight per square inch. Another way to look at it if you going to crawl up on a weaken roof typically you would take a sheet of plywood and slide up on the roof first. Then you can stand or kneel on the plywood without the risk of falling through. Again another example spreading your weight out to prevent falling through. Another tidbit. If you walk into any flooring store most will NOT warranty flooring against stiletto heels. Why? Even if you have a 120 pound woman which is not much weight at all but when you amplify the force of a 120 pound woman into a 1/8 inch square that makes that downward force somewhere 900 pounds of force in that tiny heel and it can shatter ceramic tile, poke holes in carpet, and even dent hardwood floors.

Still pointing to AC noise issue common to see on a manual transmission truck. Like on my truck if fouls the tach signal and the ECM sees the AC noise for a moment the revs up past what I'm commanding for speed the AC noise frequency shifts and then the throttle cuts even though my foot hasn't moved nor has the TPS signal changed. But the RPM signal on the OBDII port is all over the map up and down.

Must be only a 47RE issue. My 46RE in my 1996 Dodge 1500 doesn't have this issue. I'm pretty sure there is a vent hole in the dipstick tube somewhere near the top.

T-bred... I would have documented all serial numbers and made photos of your pump just in case they claim it void warranty because of bad fuel. I'm not sure who supplies there pumps. Sad to say I've seen quite a few voided warranties with T-bred.

One of my few hand me down tools given to me from a member. Here is like Harbor Freight... https://www.harborfreight.com/radiator-pressure-tester-kit-63862.html Here is Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-Core-Radiator-Pressure-Tester-Kit-16-Piece-39411/303479578

Being I travel 65,000 miles per year in all weather conditions from rain to snow. I've found more wide tire and lifted trucks losing traction and slowing way down (25 to 35 MPH) where I leave my cruise set and keep rolling right on around them. Like last winter I was able to travel 55 MPH on packed snow and rarely had to use 4WD. Even in downpour rain the only thing that slows me down is loss of vision because of the windshield being bombed by too much rain or snow. Surprising what just a mere inch of rubber change can do for stability or power.

I know a true empty 46RE (just rebuilt) will hold around 11 quarts.

Typically if there is any AC noise it will do weird stuff about 80% of the time its alternator related. The other 20% could be bad crank/cam sensor. Wiring issues. Bad grounds. Possibly cluster error.

Idaho roads. Rancher doing his typical work with cows. Feeding hay, herding them, etc. There is a cheat. Not a perfect solution but it will work for about 80% clean up. Pull the blower and the resistor out. Lay a tarp on the passenger side footwell. Using a garden hose and spray nozzle you can rinse out the evaporator in bursts to hopefully not flood out the HVAC case and run it on the driver side. This should wash out all the packed dirt, grass, leaves, etc. Just make sure to check your A/C drain after this wash. This typically can improve airflow and reduce noise too. I've done this on 2nd Gen Dodge's, 3rd Gen Dodge's and even one Chevy truck. Worked good...

No. Front axle is always an "open differential". Only the rear is optional of "open differential" or "limited slip". As for pulling power, it done on both wheels on that axle but when a tire loses traction it will continue to spin. Where a limited slip uses a clutch pack to lock the axle solid and give traction to the other tire possibly. It doesn't mean it can but that is the concept. In 4WD my truck pulls straight on all four tires. But since I use smaller / narrow tires my traction is better so the whole slip part is rare for me hence why "open differential" still works just fine. Now for guys with wide tires or duals now this is a whole another story where traction is lost easily and "limited slip" would be a good band-aid for this case. Guys will duals you basically taking 2,860 pounds dividing by 2 giving 1,430 pounds per dual set. Now since the contact patch is much wider and spread of weight of larger amount of cubic inches traction is lost really easy. No clutches... Limited slip Dana 80... As you can see the clutches. Towing and daily driving optimal you want 3.55 to 3.73 final gear ratio to the ground. So like in my case with the factory tire size is 265/ 75 R16 with 3.55 axle gears now change up to 245/75 R16 (the other factory tire size) now my final gear ratio to the ground is 3.69:1 which is darn close to 3.73 ratio. This puts me at a perfect 2,000 RPM's at 66 MPH in 5th gear on NV4500 transmission. At 85 MPH your twisting nearly a perfect 2,400 RPM's.

Can you shot a photo of the original joint and the glue used possibly?

Might get it to the stag of missing then test again. I'm wondering if a diode is failing when it's getting hot and creating the issue? Keep an eye on it and see what happens. As for something that might just buy time for that current alternator in the W-T ground wire mod. As you'll see the ECM, VP44 and other sensors have the alternator noise running past the master ground for everything. Black/Tan is the master ground from the passenger battery and the solid black is the alternator charge lead.

Another one to look into is debris in the evaporator will do the same thing too.

Ok so the injectors are covered. That leads me back to be sure the power and sensors are not getting AC noise.

Ok. Did you tighten the injectors in the right order? Crossover tube seat it lightly. Torque the Injector hold down caps to 89inch/pounds. The finalize the crossover tubes.

Blower noise could be debris in the blower cage.

Test your alternator for excessive AC noise. Miss at hot idle is typically a sign of worn out injectors and the pop pressure is really low and the injectors are getting pissy.

That looks stock for sure. Steel pan. The extra deep typically are aluminum and nearly twice as deep.

Being AC noise will foul anything with a hall effect sensor like crank sensor or axle speed sensor I typically want to be sure the alternator isn't the cause first.