Mopar1973Man

The only time I've manage to trip my breaker is when the temperatures are low and grid Hester's run longer, and even have the Quadzilla high idle running. But no biggy pop the hood and reset the breaker. Possibly the high idle is the cause of the breaker trip being high idle at 1,200 RPM will decrease IAT temperature making the grid heater to run longer, then the alternator goes wide open and manages to heat the breaker just enough to trip. Solution... Disconnect the grid heater power lead from the driver side battery. Problem Solved.

Finally... I got my TP-Link Managed Network Switch working. Its a 24-port PoE+ switch. My biggest problem was getting the software all installed on Ubuntu Linux so I could manage the switch. Now its at least working and the network switch can be managed. This morning we had a hard rain at about 3am and then by 4am it switched over to heavy wet snow. Starlink lost connection from the storm. It doesn't help that my dish is not in an optimal placement being the building is partially in the way. I've got to move to the north side of the house but I need to drill a hole through the wall to push the dish cable back through. Then if I mount the dish on the edge of the roof it would have no obstructions to the sky compared to where the dish is currently at currently on the deck. The neat part is I'm building my own secured network internal to my house. The switch is completely firewalled to the outside world. This means all traffic has to pass through my firewall on the switch before hitting all the devices, PCs, TV's, and game console. I can even limit the bandwidth of every device so no one can steal all the bandwidth in the network. My setup is rough but working. This is just temporary till I can get everything set up correctly. So now the Linux side of controls now... I can control every aspect of every device on my network now. I'm in the learning phase of managing all this and have some study work to do. I'm hoping really soon I can call my old internet provider / phone company and tell them to come to get their stuff and pull the leads off the houses. First I have to configure all these devices to the switch and double-check everything is working correctly and then I can dump Ziply Fiber. Like for example I can limit the bandwidth to the shop... This would provide 2Mbits Down and 1 Mbit Up for speed to the shop. Yeah I'm sure there is 99.9% of you who have no idea what I'm doing. Sadly my previous business was "Cloud 10 Computers" which I did custom computer building and basic internet setup for Windows. Now I've stepped up to Linux software (which is 90% of all internet servers) and doing Network Administration (local and remote) being I manage the website network remotely. I'm going to add PoE wireless access heads in the house and then PoE cameras for the house and property. This will allow me full management of everything and keep it secure compared to weak systems like Ring Doorbells.

Well as for the display... I've already called in to Quadzilla Power and sent my phone information for a few fixes... Like the funky display offset... As for what I got its fuel system related.

Heck, right here at home as of this morning April 18th, 2023, it is still SNOWING. Even considering camping around here before May is just a bad idea. Basically, instead of being cooped up in a 3 bedroom 2 bath house, downsize to a 296 square foot RV with a single bathroom and watching it snow is even worse. I know @JAG1 was talking about going for the camping trip over in Oregon but if I look at what is right here at my place, I'd have to say, "Nope." As for going seasonal like the topic says... If I'm in an RV park it's not very enjoyable neighbors are even closer than here at home where they are several hundred feet from me to just a few feet away. As soon as this snow breaks and my high country spot is not buried under 7 to 8 feet of snow (West of Burgdorf, ID) I know I'll be back there camping. No power, no cellphone, no internet, just peace and quiet.

Talk to @IBMobile he seems to hit the salvage yards on a regular basis.

My 2002 was purchased new on my birthday back in Oct. 2002. 463k miles still going. I could list all I've done but that is all here on the site. Now the 2006 Dodge was molested by both previous owners and continue to make it a reliable vehicle. Close but not perfect. Got issues yet I've got to investigate. This is true with any used vehicle and unknown history. You might have to undo things previous owners done. Kind of like Thor my 2006 I've still got to remove the 2 inch leveling kit to fix the squatting issue which will fix thrust angle issue and caster issues.

So now you got to open the rear wiring plug under the driverside fender skirt and ohm from pin to pin to verify if the wiring is the rear or between the dash and this plug. I'm trying to think of ways to isolate where the short is. It would suck to have to rip off the bed and pull the entire wiring apart to find this short.

Not good. Something is shorted between the blue trailer brake wire and the running lights. Are you using the factory trailer brake connector under the dash?

Thank you sir. Can I send you a few bucks?

Being number 5 had 125 PSI sounds like the valve seat possibly? Damaged valve (struck like tractorman mentions). Fact it still has some compression the damage isn't a complete failure of the cylinder. Photos needed really badly, more I read the more I keep guessing what happened. Might be lucky and just end up servicing the head. If it's only one intake valve.

Just the bellcrank spring... I would try the heat idea. At the worst, you end up pulling that spring and installing your own return spring like a carburetor return spring to the bellcrank arm.

If you can get photos of the head and cylinders with the pistons down so we can see the cylinder walks. I'm curious to see what happened.

Now I'll step up as well the Owner of @Auto Computer Specialist did call me on this and was upset about all of this as I've read here ACS has done nothing wrong. He was being helpful and forward like they always do. Assuming the PCM damage is like when my alternator shorted out it fried the PCB so bad it was unrepairable just like @JJSNOW PCM. Sadly there is nothing you can do but replace the PCM. Now this is y my article database was built to educate others on how to prevent damage to their vehicle. Yes, I paid the heavy price for replacement as well. Regarding my case, the PCM protection fuse article was created. Now several members confirmed the article works and prevents damage. Even ACS has verified the article to be valid. As for spending thousands yeah these vehicles are not cheap to repair. This is why my part is to try to educate the members about getting into these issues and provide solutions that keep repairs to a minimum.

Rebuild kit replaces all wearable parts and gaskets.

Do yourself a favor keep the 2nd Gen. 3rd Gen just figure on 3,200 dollars of injectors every 100k miles. Cost more to keep running not to mention 3rd Gens have shorter life span from the CR injectors being when they stick open most people do not notice anything and injectors wash out the rings. I just done injectors on a 2005 Cummins and the Bosch Stock injectors only lasted 1k miles and filled the crankcase with a 1.5 gallons of diesel. We upgraded to +50 DAP injectors, cross over tubes and one rocker arm set for #1 cylinder still was cheaper than Bosch Stock injectors. Me personally suggest don't do 2003 up. Just a bigger pain in the ar$e and everything cost even more. Oh I have a complete rebuild kit for the 24Vin the store. https://store.mopar1973man.com/cummins-5-9l-24-valve-engine-rebuild-kit-24v-eng-reb.html

Hate to say it but I've never had to pull a 2nd Gen yet. No idea on time or price. I've pulled one 3rd Gen but never finished the job being @MoparMom was heading to the hospital with kidney failure.

Remember it's easier to use a test port with a pressure gauge than rely on an electronic sensor which could be misreporting pressures. Keep in mind only 10% of vehicles have a fuel pressure sensor that can be read on the OBDII port. Kind of like our MAP sensor for boost reading which kind of close but not the same reading.

Here you go... https://mintonmotorsinc.com/

Correct. Forum members get a small discount being referred from my site. I do not receive any monies from this. This is why @pepsi71ocean keeps track of reviews to show how many people had good reviews and bad reviews.

If you turn the Quadzilla to level 0 it is basically disabled and just monitoring CANBus data from the ECM. But since there is an error code for the APPS sensor that is a real issue. Either P0122 or P0123 codes are pointing at either lo volt (p0122) or hi volt (p0123) codes. This is not a tap issue on the pump or the Quadzilla tuner but a voltage issue on the APPS circuit. This is why I suggested ohming out the wires to verify that the signal is passing from the APPS back to the ECM properly. Disconnect both APPS and ECM plugs and ohm pin tp pin at both ends. Should be no higher than 5 ohms. Then still disconnected ohm from APPS pin to ground it should be infinite ohms or OL (Displayed) this means there is no short to ground. After that I would talk to Timbo about a replacement APPS.

Do remember my server is in Michigan and I'm in Idaho. My Starlink only gives me the ability to have Internet so I can access the server. Much as you do to access the site. Part of the down time was to do some repairs and updates to the site. Much easier than having public traffic bouncing through.

Nope.

Keep the stock filter and order a big line kit for between the Vp44 and fuel filter.

Completed. A new turbo was installed with no communication error code. New Revmax valve body with a BD pressure mod kit. Holy cow builds boost a bit quicker being the controller and vanes are working. Shift quality is very crisp and firm. Exhaust brake holds back quickly. I will admit the valve body and electrics was super easy and about a 3 hour job. Seriously we'll worth it mod to do for and 4th Gen truck. Now for a direct replacement turbo you better have about 2 days. It took a full day just to remove the old turbo. Then it took me all of today to reinstall the new turbo. The biggest issues I had was removing the lower coolant line and oil return and attaching again to the new turbo. Being the new turbo was slightly of clock position made line up of the oil return bit difficult.  As you can see in the photo where the oil return landed. The heat shield you have to bend back to even access these two connections. Then during assembly getting exhaust elbow back in was a tough reach and I've got long arms and big paws. Lots of cussing occurred. I managed to figure out this puzzle but 2 days even for me. Oh you might noticed the engine mount bolt yup I hoist the front of the engine just a bit to gain access to the bottom connections.

Left to right... Mark's Dodge Dakota (renter) Thor my 2006 Cummins Beast my 2002 Cummins Minnie my 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan Honey Badger's 2009 Dodge Dakota Honey Badger's 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Honey Badger's Dads 2017 Dodge Hemi