Mopar1973Man

So now you got to open the rear wiring plug under the driverside fender skirt and ohm from pin to pin to verify if the wiring is the rear or between the dash and this plug. I'm trying to think of ways to isolate where the short is. It would suck to have to rip off the bed and pull the entire wiring apart to find this short.

Not good. Something is shorted between the blue trailer brake wire and the running lights. Are you using the factory trailer brake connector under the dash?

Thank you sir. Can I send you a few bucks?

Being number 5 had 125 PSI sounds like the valve seat possibly? Damaged valve (struck like tractorman mentions). Fact it still has some compression the damage isn't a complete failure of the cylinder. Photos needed really badly, more I read the more I keep guessing what happened. Might be lucky and just end up servicing the head. If it's only one intake valve.

Just the bellcrank spring... I would try the heat idea. At the worst, you end up pulling that spring and installing your own return spring like a carburetor return spring to the bellcrank arm.

If you can get photos of the head and cylinders with the pistons down so we can see the cylinder walks. I'm curious to see what happened.

Now I'll step up as well the Owner of @Auto Computer Specialist did call me on this and was upset about all of this as I've read here ACS has done nothing wrong. He was being helpful and forward like they always do. Assuming the PCM damage is like when my alternator shorted out it fried the PCB so bad it was unrepairable just like @JJSNOW PCM. Sadly there is nothing you can do but replace the PCM. Now this is y my article database was built to educate others on how to prevent damage to their vehicle. Yes, I paid the heavy price for replacement as well. Regarding my case, the PCM protection fuse article was created. Now several members confirmed the article works and prevents damage. Even ACS has verified the article to be valid. As for spending thousands yeah these vehicles are not cheap to repair. This is why my part is to try to educate the members about getting into these issues and provide solutions that keep repairs to a minimum.

Rebuild kit replaces all wearable parts and gaskets.

Do yourself a favor keep the 2nd Gen. 3rd Gen just figure on 3,200 dollars of injectors every 100k miles. Cost more to keep running not to mention 3rd Gens have shorter life span from the CR injectors being when they stick open most people do not notice anything and injectors wash out the rings. I just done injectors on a 2005 Cummins and the Bosch Stock injectors only lasted 1k miles and filled the crankcase with a 1.5 gallons of diesel. We upgraded to +50 DAP injectors, cross over tubes and one rocker arm set for #1 cylinder still was cheaper than Bosch Stock injectors. Me personally suggest don't do 2003 up. Just a bigger pain in the ar$e and everything cost even more. Oh I have a complete rebuild kit for the 24Vin the store. https://store.mopar1973man.com/cummins-5-9l-24-valve-engine-rebuild-kit-24v-eng-reb.html

Hate to say it but I've never had to pull a 2nd Gen yet. No idea on time or price. I've pulled one 3rd Gen but never finished the job being @MoparMom was heading to the hospital with kidney failure.

Remember it's easier to use a test port with a pressure gauge than rely on an electronic sensor which could be misreporting pressures. Keep in mind only 10% of vehicles have a fuel pressure sensor that can be read on the OBDII port. Kind of like our MAP sensor for boost reading which kind of close but not the same reading.

Here you go... https://mintonmotorsinc.com/

Correct. Forum members get a small discount being referred from my site. I do not receive any monies from this. This is why @pepsi71ocean keeps track of reviews to show how many people had good reviews and bad reviews.

If you turn the Quadzilla to level 0 it is basically disabled and just monitoring CANBus data from the ECM. But since there is an error code for the APPS sensor that is a real issue. Either P0122 or P0123 codes are pointing at either lo volt (p0122) or hi volt (p0123) codes. This is not a tap issue on the pump or the Quadzilla tuner but a voltage issue on the APPS circuit. This is why I suggested ohming out the wires to verify that the signal is passing from the APPS back to the ECM properly. Disconnect both APPS and ECM plugs and ohm pin tp pin at both ends. Should be no higher than 5 ohms. Then still disconnected ohm from APPS pin to ground it should be infinite ohms or OL (Displayed) this means there is no short to ground. After that I would talk to Timbo about a replacement APPS.

Do remember my server is in Michigan and I'm in Idaho. My Starlink only gives me the ability to have Internet so I can access the server. Much as you do to access the site. Part of the down time was to do some repairs and updates to the site. Much easier than having public traffic bouncing through.

Nope.

Keep the stock filter and order a big line kit for between the Vp44 and fuel filter.

Completed. A new turbo was installed with no communication error code. New Revmax valve body with a BD pressure mod kit. Holy cow builds boost a bit quicker being the controller and vanes are working. Shift quality is very crisp and firm. Exhaust brake holds back quickly. I will admit the valve body and electrics was super easy and about a 3 hour job. Seriously we'll worth it mod to do for and 4th Gen truck. Now for a direct replacement turbo you better have about 2 days. It took a full day just to remove the old turbo. Then it took me all of today to reinstall the new turbo. The biggest issues I had was removing the lower coolant line and oil return and attaching again to the new turbo. Being the new turbo was slightly of clock position made line up of the oil return bit difficult.  As you can see in the photo where the oil return landed. The heat shield you have to bend back to even access these two connections. Then during assembly getting exhaust elbow back in was a tough reach and I've got long arms and big paws. Lots of cussing occurred. I managed to figure out this puzzle but 2 days even for me. Oh you might noticed the engine mount bolt yup I hoist the front of the engine just a bit to gain access to the bottom connections.

Left to right... Mark's Dodge Dakota (renter) Thor my 2006 Cummins Beast my 2002 Cummins Minnie my 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan Honey Badger's 2009 Dodge Dakota Honey Badger's 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Honey Badger's Dads 2017 Dodge Hemi

Well, I can tell you this is harder than changing an oil pan gasket on a 2nd Gen. So if you get the 4 nuts holding the turbo to the manifold, then the 2 oil lines then the two coolant lines top and bottom. Exhaust elbow removed. Then you are beating on it with a 2x4 and hammer to get it even off the manifold. Then once it drops off the studs then you have to rotate the turbo. I even went as far as loosening the passenger-side engine mount and lifting the engine to gain a bit of room. As you get the position right then you try to come up and out then realize that more has to be removed. The grid heater solenoid and battery power. Even after then you get a hold of it and attempt to lift it several times but the pure size of these turbos and weight is unreal. All I can say is have stable footing your going to be leaned over quite a bit and lifting a heavy turbo. This truck has oversized tires but you need a milk crate to reach down inside. The funny part is I barely fit under the control arms of the axle doing all the return coolant and return oil lines. Sadly I'm glad I opted for a full turbo replacement the bearings and controller were both bad. Had oil in the boost line. After 5 hours of beating, lifting, smashing fingers, and cussing at this I finally gave birth to a wore out turbo. I can tell you these turbos are monsters in size. Very heavy. I even laid my HX35/40 Hybrid beside this and it looks tiny or like a toy. Weight wise a huge difference in weight. All I can say is this is not like the 2nd Gewn where it's an hour to swap turbos this is nearly a weekend thing to swap a turbo.

Is there a test port on the rail?

Not the VP44 gear but the cam gear. The 1st gen has a single tooth notch in the dampener to provide tach signal. Where the cam gear has the multitooth tone wheel.

Well, it continues. I'm doing the turbo. I will say it is NOT easy. The turbo is tucked in rather deep against the frame. There are oil lines and coolant lines you have to remove. Then the four 15mm nuts holding the turbo to the manifold are stainless nuts. My magnetic induction heater can't heat the nuts because they are stainless. The studs are steel and it takes a lot to break them loose. This is quite the battle. I've still got to get the lines off the bottom and there is a heat shield in the way. I've got to bend the shield back to gain access. Other than that you would have to remove the engine mount to deal with the shield. Progress is slow and difficult.

OBDLink is the best I've found. https://www.obdlink.com/

I'm going to have to think about this being right off your going to have issues with several error codes that might impact communications. Let me catch up later after getting my customer truck done.