Mopar1973Man

So is my Honda Rancher its fuel injected too. But I know my fuel pump and how the system works so it will run for quite a while with the fuel in the pump. Once the fuel system is dry then I'm good. I've had to pull apart the fuel pump to clean the filter strainer. It holds quite a bit of fuel but the filter is made from plastic.

Yup... It a front tilt hood. Opens like a semi-truck. Stellar...

Yup. Factory service manual covers the capacities of the truck entirely...

2006 I installed the AirDog 150. About 250k miles later the pump finally gave up and the pump seals failed and ate the bearing and failed. I was warrantied by AirDog and given a 3rd Gen pump head 150 GPH. It barely lasted few thousand miles and failed the same way the seals gave up diesel fuel washed out the bearings. Then I called again and AirDog upgraded me to the AirDog 165 GPH pump head. No issues since then. I kept my stock filter and install a 7um filter in the stock and 3um filter on the AirDog. Currently at 460k miles. Tidbit... 467k miles I'm made the trip to the moon and back. Then I'm going to load up and go again...

My last gasket I installed I just used the factory bolts over again. No issues.

I would use FelPro or Mahle gaskets over any Cummins gasket any day. Just a heads up Cummins does not produce gaskets like the head gasket is produced in China by BLK.

Only thing that is required that it is a GL-4 lubricant. I would suggest that you don't attempt to use the same factory weight of oil. Factory suggested viscosity I will say it too thin. Especially if you work your transmission heavy like I do. For sure add a transmission temperature gauge. I will admit I've ran a few times as high as 240*F which cause my last failure being the lube was too thin and started breaking down the viscosity and then taking the hard facing off the gears. 50 weight engine oil is equal to 90 weight gear lube. 75W-85 is equal to 10w30 engine oil just think when the temps rise to 200*F it does get get rather thin.

I dropped all the high price junk fluids (Mopar, Redline, AMSOil, Etc.)... I switched over to a synthetic 50 SAE used in Eaton Fuller 10 speed transmissions. So far had good results and no issues. The whole scare about it be too thick or affecting syncros is not true. Shift quality is great. I've used both Mobil 50 SAE Transmission Fluid and now using Valvoline 50 SAE Transmission fluid. No issues. I'm planning soon to drop the fluid out of Thor which is a G56 transmission (6 speed) and get rid of that junk ATF+4 and load it with Valvoline 50 SAE transmission fluid. I've done this for a previous customer as well and he loves it.

That's why I pick a product and do a review of the products I purchase. Everything I've done to my truck is all in history here on the website. If you want to do a Google search just add "site:mopar1973man.com" to the end of your search and it will dig through the website for what you are looking for. Like my example.

Here is the ISSPro EV2 software and the options. Showing my Pyrometer settings. Here is the entire post on it...

Daisy chained wiring... Sorry the photo is upside down but the boost fitting is just behind the fuel filter... My sensor are not on the engine but mounted on the fender... Boost and fuel pressure... Both pyrometer probes for the Quadzilla and ISSPro EV2... Needle valve and snubber just after... No sensor here its on the fender in the above photo.

I would highly suggest the ISSPro EV2 series over any other gauge on the market. ISSPro is USB programmable for the warning light, needle reaction speed, LED light to match the light level of the cluster, then you can even program a option relay to turn on and off different thing. Example Trans Temp gauge programmed for waring light at 220*F and then program the relay to switch on a cooling fan at 160*F. Then change the needle speed to be more average that accurate.

Varies... Might be as low 20 PSI or as high as 35 PSI. I know when I blew my head gasket I was shocked my ISSPro EV2 showed 53 PSI but the Quadzilla was 69 PSI shown in the logs. Boost gauge is the most accurate. The only thing the Quadzilla worries about is from 0 to 30 PSI being that is all the fuel map that it can calculate. Above that point it doesn't matter being it will use the +30 PSI fuel setting.

Yup. That was my mistake on my first Stealth Plate I grabbed the security 6 point torx but still didn't fit because it was a 5 point. Then seen in the bottom of the bag there was a Torx plus bit and BAM! Easy job when you have the right tools.

Yes Sir. I'm willing to work for you at a $100 a tune and give you unlimited updates for 30 days. We could get together on the phone gather up info make a base tune. Let you test drive call me back and we will produce a update tune. All the progress will be saved in the Download file and show all the progress so we can back up to a previous if needed. Let me know we can build tunes.

Myself I typically run Level 2 on the Quadzilla being with +150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x 0.010 popped at 320 bar) that more than enough power for daily driver use. Level 3 is more or less like my Sport Street mode. I don't really use the wire tap but to show off to clients. That typically will push them back in the seat and you see the "Oh chit" face come, I just smile. Now with my current tune, I'm greatly defuled on the low boost realm. Way better snow and ice performance.

https://www.amazon.com/KAIFNT-5-Point-Tamper-Proof-Security-7-Piece/dp/B07TC79LVH

It could but, I wouldn't trust it fully. If you can spool fast its possible to blow past the limit briefly before the defuel limit kicks in. Just depends on how slow your acceleration then it will lean right up against it and defuel slowly. This is my experience on Beast... All I can say is try it and see how it works out.

NAPA gasket is all I ever used. Now make sure your cover isn't warped and that there is no issues. Do NOT use silicone on the cover or gasket. I just slip the new gasket on making sure that its facing the right direction typically there is a tab showing direction. Then tighten the bolts as usual and reassmeble the VP44 into the gear case.

True Bosch certified pump is NOT a T25. Look security pin in the center and its not 6 point but 5 point.

Reverse it. Now if the ECM was booting up but PCM wasn't talking it would start but things like alternator won't work being the PCM doesnt recieve the tach signal from the ECM.

CCD typically will not prevent starting... Now the missing WAIT TO START will 100% of the time. Being that ECM never booted up and is not responding at all. The fact that CCD bus error means the PCM booted up and attempted to talk to the ECM and since the ECM is completely brain dead it will not repsond nor start being the is not software to turn on the fuel pump relay (power for the VP44) and then no information will be fed to the VP44 being the software is not booted. I would give @Auto Computer Specialist a call and have the ECM tested out and follow their suggestions on fixing.

Strange I've jumped many vehicles and never unhooked the Quadzilla. No damage. No wait to start is a ECM death sentence, then the CCD codes are most likely because the ECM is not responding because the ECM never booted up which goes back to the lack of wait to start light.

My Father-in-law got a 2017 Dodge Hemi truck and it 3/4 ton. It looks like the previous owner hit a gooseneck hitch in the corner passenger side. Let me know if anyone has a tailgate white hopefully.

Here is my old post...