Mopar1973Man

I'm glad to be home. Side note on the this trip is I'm going to throw my boots out. with all the walking I did and driving I managed to dislocate 3 toes on my right foot and 2 on my left foot and @Honey Badger managed to get my left foot doing gong and relocated. My right foot and still very sore but it was super painful to get the one toe back in. I'll be slow and hobbling around for a few days.

I prefer ND over the Bosch alternators because there are much easier to rebuild being Bosch you have to solder all the diode by hand. ND diodes are as a pack that you just bolt in.

Actually it's part of the inspection according to the Dodge FSM to inspect the fan blades and the rivets that hold them on a scheduled inspection. I don't remember the interval but yes it does happen. Just like I've seen harmonic dampeners throw the outer ring because no one check the rubber and the alignment tick marks.

Might check the thermostat might have a fan switch for auto/on. The OE thermostat had a fan auto or lo fan or hi fan. The new thermostat only had auto or on so I picked the hi fan leads for the on position. Thermostat wiring is all 12V wiring.

Well to add to the story we made back to Idaho but that piece of crap Ford died again in the middle of of construction in Caldwell ID managed to get it started again. Then dropped of the Interstate and headed towards Parma ID to get Minnie (minivan) we picked up 50 in fuel. Had troubles getting it started again. Got it running made it to Parma Rd and it died again fought with it for another hour my buddy @MUDDY came to help. Finally I got it started again and drove it like a race truck to get over the grade to Muddy's place. We unhitched and struggled to start it again and park it out front. Yesterday Uhaul came and towed it off. I can promised everyone here I will never own a Ford product they are completely junk vehicles. Oh the other problem every time I was dealing with bone heads on the road it was ALWAYS a Ford. Stupid people. Just had one yesterday stupid Ford gets in the passing lane and slows down. As for Beast I ran back to Parma ID with Beast and haul @First Diesel Middleton RV back here. Beast was a pleasure to drive and tow Mike's RV back to my place. All the muscle to climb grades and cold A/C. Always remember when your having troubles with a vehicle look on the members map and see who is around you and should be able to find some help through the website.

Yup I would send the ECM off to @Auto Computer Specialist and let them fix the ECM. Then I would suggest pulling you alternator have it bench tested for AC ripple. Then if you replace the alternator make sure to have the new one tested I've seen new in the box that are bad. Then I would go over to the article section and do the W-T ground wire mod. As for the APPS I would replace with a Timbo's APPS it has no voltage to set or electronics completely mechanical throttle sensor.

Make sure the thermostat isn't laying in the bottom of the pan it should be suspended In the water and the thermometer need to be near the copper pellet. When it lays on the bottom the heat of the burner will be the hottest and hard to measure good temp.

My Jayco I've upgraded to a digital thermostat. When the temperature is +/- 2 degrees from set it will fire up either A/C or heat till it at least 1 degree past set point. My A/C shuts off both fan and compressor together. I've got Coleman Mach A/C unit.

Stupid Ford has a vacuum leak still but I made a hose plug for PVC valve. Running a bit better but it doesn't idle. Once running down the road it does fairly good but when it down shifts it pings pretty badly. Made it Ely, NV made the climb to 7,300 feet and it was slow, but made the climb.

Made it Las Vagas and got the codes read and it's a bad pcv valve. Might be a easy fix hopefully.

Man that is a pretty motorcycle. Sadtosay I'm not much for Harleys more so Goldwings. But the funny part is most riders come together and ride together regardless of makes.

Yeah I've got my Pirate Jack's kit at home on my dinning table. Just gotta get home and finish the truck I've got in the shop. Then shove Beast in and tear it down.

Yup it stays hot all night. Heck 7am it 90°F outside walked a mile just to get a few bottles of water. Got a long day yet to get home.

All I can say is Ford Uhaul box trucks are a complete piece of junk. I know why I've never owned a Ford. Trying to help a friend bring his RV from Mesa, AZ to Idaho. We didn't even get out of AZ and the check engine light popped on and started rattling till it dead in the middle of the desert. Sat in the heat waiting for it to cooldown. Got it started, talk about gutless. Made it to Boulder City, NV for the night. Most likely have to trade trucks to keep going.

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/ There is the article.

Might be able to cross from the part number book here on the website.

Hey! Don't be giving away all my secrets.

Ouch. If your hydrobooster is leaking into the cab you should go to Pirate Jack's and get the seal kit for the hydrobooster. The input seal might require cutting the rod and weld it back together being the pedal eye won't allow it to pass.

Get it fixed. Life sucks when you are in constant pain.

I know most of you have looked at your oil pan and wondered if the oil pan can be removed easily. The answer is yes. You can remove the oil pan completely but you will need a few heavy-duty tools like a bottle jack or an engine hoist. The first thing you going to need to do is jack up the truck so the axle hangs freely. Then you want to drain all the oil from the pan. In my case, I had to do tie rod ends and a new drag link so this was all removed. I removed the wheels from the axle and allowed the axle to just hang freely. Loosen up both engine mounts bolts till the nuts are to the end of the threads. Now set up an engine hoist and hook it to the front hoist ring of the block. Lift the engine carefully watching the fan and clearance of everything. Once the engine is lifted remove all the 10mm bolts in the oil pan. Using a putty knife pry the pan free from the block. There will be plenty of room to slide the pan around and loosen the two 10mm bolts that hold the pickup tube on the driver side of the block and then the two bolts in the flange of the pickup tube. At this point, there is nothing holding the pan in place, and should about fall out the rear of the engine. You will be able to scrap the bottom of the block clean with a putty knife and then scrap and wash the oil pan clean. The gasket I used was from NAPA. The oil pickup tube part of the gasket is perforated so it can be cut free from the main oil pan gasket. I opted to do so because I wanted to glue the pan gasket to the pan using grey RTV silicone. Then a thin coat of grey RTV on the pickup tube flange too. Once it is mostly cured up you can place the pickup tube in the pan and slide it back into position. You are going to install the pickup tube bolts first and mount them all back together this will help in holding the oil pan in place again. Now you can start hand installing all the pan bolts back into the oil pan and hand torque them once all the bolts are installed. View full Cummins article

Custom AirDog 150 Install Doing a custom AirDog install I think the hardest thing that people struggle with is getting the draw straw installed properly in the proper place. First of the draw straw should not be installed in the sender basket. The reason is the return fuel from the rear of the head is heated by the heat of the head and that will be the first fuel you going to pump back to the VP44. We all know that you want cool fuel for the VP44 this is a bad idea. Second, your draw straw needs to be installed in the fuel tank away from the sender where the hot fuel is returned. I typically use the high spot just forward of the sender which typically has no other interference from the bed or frame. Installing the Draw Straw First off you need to drop the tank and have it fully drained of fuel. It is a requirement to have the tank completely empty of fuel when the measurements are done for the straw. Diesel fuel weighs about 6 pounds per gallon so when you fill the tank the bottom will deflect more opening the gap more between the straw tip and the bottom this is why the gap must be 1 or 2 quarter coins at most. Then place the fuel tank on 2x4 boards under where the bands normally sit to keep from deflecting the bottom of the tank upwards which will skew your draw straw measurement. When you drill the 1-inch hole do it in a place like I mention the high spot forward of the sender. Using either 1 or 2 quarters place them under the tip of the Draw Straw so you can mark the proper amount to trim off. Now remove the straw and measure the same distance from the tip and mark and cut. When you cut the straw make sure to cut it straight! NO ANGLE CUTS!... MUST BE CUT STRAIGHT. Now install your Draw Straw you'll need the gasket on first. Then install the straw then the flat washer, star washer, and the nut on the inside. Tighten the nut, yeah it's not easy to tighten that nut on the inside. Then add your fitting to the straw when you do make sure to face it so you can hook up the fuel lines. Mounting the AirDog 150 pump to the frame When I now install the pump I did not use the supplied bracket for mounting the AirDog sandwiched to the frame this typically ends up with the filters hanging below the frame line and striking damage might occur if you use your truck offroad. This is why I use the base bracket and mark and drill the frame for placement so the filters are above the frame line. In this case, I mounted the AirDog 150 on the outside of the frame. Now you want to drill and tap the frame for the bracket. I used a drill just a bit small but the 5/16-18 tap requires a 17/64 drill bit. Once holes are drilled and tapped then you need the four Allen bolts supplied in the kit and the plastic block spacer. Tighten up the four bolts and then install the AirDog in the bracket. Installing fuel Lines / Hoses Since this truck has a flatbed and modified filler neck. I had taken advantage of the custom filler neck for my return line coupler. I pulled out the double barbed fitting and replaced it with the AirDog return fitting. Then I measured from the AirDog 150 return fitting to the return barb. Cut the hose. Now use some lightweight oil and lube each push lock fitting and push them into the hose. The easiest way is to put the fitting on the floor and push down on the fitting with the hose. All you got to do after the hose is put together with both fittings is snap it on each fitting at the return and the pump. Now Supply from the tank you measure from there and route back to the pump. The same applies here cut to length and then push your push lock fittings into the hose. Then snap on the draw straw and the AirDog. Now the feed line to the engine is a bit different than most do. I route the feed line over the frame and then run the hose inside the frame all the way forward to the hole near the bell housing. They exit the frame and run to the stock Fuel Filter housing. For this one you have to push the fitting on by hand being the hose is run in the frame already. Again just snap the hose onto the AirDog pump and then on the stock fuel filter. Now I ordered the optional Big Line Kit which goes between the stock fuel filter housing and the VP44. The stock filter housing is always kept when I do an AirDog install. The extra filter does catch things that the AirDog misses. The stock fuel filter heater helps for wintertime operation. I highly suggest you always keep the stock fuel filter housing. Electrical / Wiring The AirDog kit comes with all the electrical and fuse hook-up. Again this is all ran back through the frame with the fuel lines to prevent snagging electrical while offroad. I typically mount the relay to the cowl using the ground screw of the wipers on the driver side. The positive and negative hook-up will require trimming there are over 6 feet of excess wiring there. I do NOT hook to the battery ever. I hook the ground to the bolt of the PDC for ground. The positive line I hook up to the PDC positive post. This way there is no wiring that will be damaged by battery acid. Then you need to unhook the factory lift pump lead and hook up the AirDog signal lead to the factory lead. View full Cummins article

Heck, we are starting out at 60*F this morning and already 90*F at 11:30am.

Yeah way toasty. Morning started at 59°F and topped out at 112°F. Too hot to be out in the heat.