Mopar1973Man

Replacing Later Model ABS Speed Sensors I would like to make a shout out to the member that sent me the front sensor back in the spring of the year. Long overdue but now I got the time to replace my well wore out and damaged ABS sensors. So here we go I'm going to do both side. Total time to replace is 30 minutes for both. Start out by jacking up the front axle and jack standing the axle for safety. Now remove the tire using the proper socket and impact gun. Mine being aftermarket wheels is a 3/4" socket. After the wheel is removed grab a large flat blade screwdriver and pry both caliper piston back a little. Now using a 5/8" 12 point socket remove the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Now lift off the caliper and frame as a assembly. Now you should be able to remove the rotor. Note: Early series trucks have the rotors held in place by the wheel studs which requires removal of the unit bearing. Now grab a proper sized Allen wrench to remove the Allen bolt holding the speed sensor. Now you may lightly bend the shield metal up to gain some room. Now I'm working with the passenger side so I got to get the BHAF and heat shield out of the way. Now I will have access to the connector up top. So now just careful remove all the old ABS sensor and lead taking note of where its routed along the brake line and frame. Now route the new sensor in the very same manner. Making sure to snap in the wire in all the clips and push the holders back into the holes on the frame. Now carefully bend the shield metal back down over the ABS speed sensor. Slide your rotor back up on the wheel studs. If you need to use a pair of open face lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Now slip the caliper and frame back over the rotor. Grab your blue loc-tite and put a bit on the bolts. Re-install the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Before mounting your wheel again double check that the wire is out of the way of any moving parts and not going to be damaged. Now remount your wheel and tire and torque your lug nuts. Now for the lights ABS and BRAKE both lights should go out within a very short amount of travel. Like in my case just getting outside the door frame of the shop the ABS and BRAKE lights went out.

Emergency Brake / Parking Brake Adjustment This procedure is for rear disc brake trucks. 2001.5+ model years. First block the front tires so the truck can't roll. Then jack up the rear axle of the truck till the tires are off the ground. Use jack stand under the rear axle. Don't set the brake! SAFETY FIRST! Now crawl under truck. The picture shown here is the driver side axle hub. There will be a notch in the bracket and in the notch is a rubber plug. You'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to reach in and pull the plug out. Now take a flashlight and look in the notch and you'll see a star wheel. You need to use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the star wheel. Check the wheel for drag by turning. If the shoes start to drag back it off a click or two. Then double check to see if it dragging again. Now do the other side the same way. Replace the rubber plugs. Now your done. Which direction to turn the star wheel to tighten? That's a simple answer. In the picture above you would want to be turning the star wheel downward away from the axle to tighten the brakes up. so basically this holds true for both sides. So the passenger side you would want to turn it down and away from the axle. If you reverse this you'll loosen the shoes up. Remember to check for rolling slack they shouldn't drag at all! Here is a few more pics so you can understand the setup better.

Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Upgrade I changed my rear wheel cylinders out yesterday since I had the day off for school. Since I had the camera on hand I snapped some shots to let other members see how easy it since. I bet there are a few people that have read about these and thought, "that might be too hard for me" when in fact it couldn't be farther from the truth. You will need at least the following: 10 mm tubing wrench brake tool Hammers (small and large) slip pliers 3/8" ratchet with 1/2" socket and 3" ext. Here they are (angelic music playing softly as I stare at them) Napa 37337 one tone wheel cylinders. They cost 8.97 a piece and like a fine Italian sports car, "Made in Italy" First, remove wheel, this was easy,but I don't live in the rust belt Second, remove drum Third, you only have to remove the forward spring to get the wheel cylinder out I didn't get a picture of the removal of the wheel cylinder, pretty easy two 1/2" bolts and she comes right out. Fourth, compare the two and they are dimensional close

ABS System Diagnostics / Troubleshooting 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Braking System Wiring Diagrams 4 wheel abs system.pdf I find it's really common to hear people complain about ABS and BRAKE lights being lit. There are a few simple things you can do to diagnose your problem. Check your ABS fuses under the hood fuse #11 and check the #3 fuse inside the cab (driver side door jamb). Replace any that are blown. Step on you brake pedal and see if the tail lights light up and turn off when released. If not, repair the brake light switch. Shift the transfer case into 4WD and check if the 4WD light comes on. (4WD equipped vehicles). If not repair the 4WD switch. Does the speedometer work? If so, the rear speed sensor in the differential is functional. So now that you done that much that means that it one of the front speed sensors that has either become disconnected or the sensor has failed. If the lights remain the only way I know to diagnose this correctly is at a Dodge dealer. They have the tools to hook up to the ABS computer and pull the error codes and tell you what has failed. Once you've repaired the problem you must drive the vehicle to reset the ABS and BRAKE lights. Also, take the second and check the error codes on the ECM/PCM and reset any error codes. Description - CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) monitors wheel speed sensor inputs continuously while the vehicle is in motion. However, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) will not activate any ABS components as long as sensor inputs indicate normal braking. During normal braking, the master cylinder, power booster and wheel brake units all function as they would in a vehicle without ABS. The HCU components are not activated. The purpose of the antilock system is to prevent wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip. Preventing lockup helps maintain vehicle braking action and steering control. The antilock CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) activates the system whenever sensor signals indicate periods of wheel slip. Periods of wheel slip occur when brake stops involve high pedal pressure and rate of vehicle deceleration. The antilock system prevents lockup during a wheel slip condition by modulating fluid apply pressure to the wheel brake units. Brake fluid applies pressure is modulated according to wheel speed, a degree of slip and rate of deceleration. Sensors at each front wheel convert wheel speed into electrical signals. These signals are transmitted to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) for processing and determination of wheel slip and deceleration rate. The ABS system has three fluid pressure control channels. The front brakes are controlled separately and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input signal indicating a wheel slip condition activates the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) antilock program. There are Two solenoid valves (Isolation and Dump valve) which are used in each antilock control channel. The valves are all located within the HCU valve body and work in pairs to either increase, hold, or decrease apply pressure as needed in the individual control channels. During an ABS stop, the ISO valve actuates, Stopping any more pressure buildup to the calipers. Then the Dump valve dumps off pressure until the wheel unlocks. This will continue until the wheels quit slipping altogether. Operation - System Self-Test Battery voltage is supplied to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) when a speed of 15 miles per hour is reached. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) performs a system initialization procedure at this point. Initialization consists of a static and dynamic self-check of system electrical components. The static and dynamic checks occur at ignition start up. During the dynamic check, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) briefly cycles the pump and solenoids to verify operation. An audible noise may be heard during this self-check. This noise should be considered normal. If an ABS component exhibits a fault during initialization, the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) illuminates the amber warning light and registers a fault code in the microprocessor memory. Mopar's Note: OBDII Testing / DRBIII Testing As for testing equipment the ODBII code reader will only see P0500 error code but the DRBIII tool that Dodge dealer has been capable of seeing all speed sensors and test the ABS braking system for it faults. A lot of people ask me how much a DRBIII tool cost... They are approximate $6,000.00 for a DRBIII tool. So it might be worth a trip to the dealer and have them diagnose the system for you. Speed Sensor Operation The Wheel Speed Sensor consists of a magnet surrounded by windings from a single strand of wire. The sensor sends a small AC signal to the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes). This signal is generated by magnetic induction. The magnetic induction is created when a toothed sensor ring (exciter ring or tone wheel) passes the stationary magnetic WSS. When the ring gear is rotated, the exciter ring passes the tip of the WSS. As the exciter ring tooth approaches the tip of the WSS, the magnetic lines of force expand, causing the magnetic field to cut across the sensor's windings. This, in turn, causes current to flow through the WSS circuit in one direction. When the exciter ring tooth moves away from the sensor tip, the magnetic lines of force collapse cutting the winding in the opposite direction. This causes the current to flow in the opposite direction. Every time a tooth of the exciter ring passes the tip of the WSS, an AC signal is generated. Each AC signal (positive to negative signal or sine wave) is interpreted by the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes). It then compares the frequency of the sinewave to a time value to calculate vehicle speed. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) continues to monitor the frequency to determine a deceleration rate that would indicate a possible wheel-locking tendency. The signal strength of any magnetic induction sensor is directly affected by: Magnetic field strength; the stronger the magnetic field, the stronger the signal Number of windings in the sensor; more windings provide a stronger signal Exciter ring speed; the faster the exciter ring/tone wheel rotates, the stronger the signal will be Distance between the exciter ring teeth and WSS; the closer the WSS is to the exciter ring/tone wheel, the stronger the signal will be The rear WSS is not adjustable. A clearance specification has been established for manufacturing tolerances. If the clearance is not within these specifications, then either the WSS or other components may be damaged. The clearance between the WSS and the exciter ring is 0.005 - 0.050 in. Resetting the ABS / BRAKE light You must repair/replace the damaged sensor/unit of the ABS braking system then drive the vehicle a short distance at road speeds before the lights will go off. The ABS module does an on the fly diagnostic of all the system and if all sensor is reporting properly the system will automatically reset at a speed of 15 MPH. WARNING! Do not disconnect the batteries to try to reset the ABS/BRAKE lights. All this does is wipe out the APPS sensor calibration in the ECM. But it will not reset ABS error code. CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) Inputs The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) continuously monitors the speed of the differential ring gear by monitoring signals generated by the rear wheel speed sensor. The CAB determines a wheel locking tendency when it recognizes the ring gear is decelerating too rapidly. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) monitors the following inputs to determine when a wheel locking tendency may exist: Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Brake Lamp Switch Brake Warning Lamp Switch Reset Switch 4WD Switch (If equipped) CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) Outputs The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) controls the following outputs for anti-lock braking and brake warning information: RWAL Valve ABS Warning Lamp Brake Warning Lamp Mopar's Notes: P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel anti-lock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensors could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

Turbo Inspection Operation Exhaust gas pressure (drive pressure) and energy drive the turbine, which in turn drives a centrifugal compressor that compresses the inlet air (boost pressure), and forces the air into the engine through the intercooler and plumbing. Since heat is a by-product of this compression, the air must pass through an intercooler to cool the incoming air and maintain power and efficiency. Increasing air flow to the engine provides: Improved engine performance Lower exhaust smoke density Improved operating economy Altitude compensation Noise reduction. The turbocharger also uses a wastegate, which regulates intake manifold air pressure and prevents over boosting at high engine speeds. When the wastegate valve is closed, all of the exhaust gases flow through the turbine wheel. As the intake manifold pressure increases, the wastegate actuator opens the valve, diverting some of the exhaust gases away from the turbine wheel. This limits turbine shaft speed and air output from the impeller. The turbocharger is lubricated by engine oil that is pressurized, cooled, and filtered. The oil is delivered to the turbocharger by a supply line that is tapped into the oil filter head. The oil travels into the bearing housing, where it lubricates the shaft and bearings. A return pipe at the bottom of the bearing housing routes the engine oil back to the crankcase. The most common turbocharger failure is bearing failure related to repeated hot shutdowns with inadequate “cool-down” periods. A sudden engine shutdown after the prolonged operation will result in the transfer of heat from the turbine section of the turbocharger to the bearing housing. This causes the oil to overheat and breaks down, which causes bearing and shaft damage the next time the vehicle is started. Letting the engine idle after extended operation allows the turbine housing to cool to normal operating temperature. Mopar's Notes: You should allow your pyrometer to fall below 300°F before shutdown. If you don't have a pyrometer I highly recommend you purchase a pyrometer gauge and install it. There is also turbo timers that allow the driver to turn off the ignition and lock up the vehicle. The engine will continue to run for set time and then shut down. These add-ons will extend the life of your turbo greatly. Turbo Inspection Procedure Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded mounting studs. 1. Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks. The following cracks are NOT acceptable: Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing that go completely through. Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer than 15 mm (0.6 in.). Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect bolt through-holes. Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together. 2. Visually inspect the impeller and compressor wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some impellers may have a factory placed paint mark which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack. Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify that it is not a crack. 3. Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 25). Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists. 4. Measure the turbocharger axial end play: a. Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 26). Zero the indicator at one end of travel. b. Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and record the measurement. Allowable end play is 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) MIN. and 0.089 mm (0.0035in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these parameters, replace the turbocharger assembly. 5. Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clearance: a. Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler gauge between the compressor wheel and the housing(Fig. 27). b. Gently push the compressor wheel toward the housing and record the clearance. c. With the feeler gauge in the same location, gently push the compressor wheel away from the housing and again record the clearance. d. Subtract the smaller clearance from the larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clearance. e. Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.326mm (0.0128 in.) MIN. and 0.496 mm (0.0195 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these specifications, replace the turbocharger assy.

Description The intercooler system (Fig. 28) consists of the intercooler piping, intercooler and intake air grid heater. The intercooler is a heat exchanger that uses air flow from vehicle motion to dissipate heat from the intake air. As the turbocharger increases air pressure, the air temperature increases. Lowering the intake air temperature increases engine efficiency and power. Operation Intake air is drawn through the air cleaner and into the turbocharger compressor housing. Pressurized air from the turbocharger then flows forward through the intercooler located in front of the radiator. From the intercooler, the air flows back into the intake manifold. Inspection Visually inspect the intercooler for cracks, holes, or damage. Inspect the tubes, fins, and welds for tears, breaks, or other damage. Replace the intercooler if the damage is found. Pressure test the intercooler, using Charge Air Cooler Tester Kit #3824556. This kit is available through Cummins Service Products. Instructions are provided with the kit. You can also use the below to test for boost leaks with turbos with a 4" inlet Mopar's Notes: Many people have created their own air system or intercooler testing equipment from common plumbing part at a hardware store. Basically, you want to cap off the turbo and have an air connection that is regulated to 20-25 PSI maximum. You can spray down the air system with soapy water and look for leaks (bubbles) or see if the pressure falls off. WARNING! Do not use caustic cleaners to clean the charge air cooler. Damage to the intercooler will result. If internal debris cannot be removed from the intercooler, the intercooler MUST be replaced. 1. If the engine experiences a turbocharger failure or any other situation where oil or debris get into the intercooler, the intercooler must be cleaned internally. 2. Position the intercooler so the inlet and outlet tubes are vertical. 3. Flush the intercooler internally with a solvent in the direction opposite of normal air flow. 4. Shake the intercooler and lightly tap on the end tanks with a rubber mallet to dislodge trapped debris. 5. Continue flushing until all debris or oil are removed. 6. Rinse the intercooler with hot soapy water to remove any remaining solvent. 7. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and blow dry with compressed air.