Mopar1973Man

Remember sensor grounds are floating ground. They are not the same as body ground don't confuse them.

So if you thinking the theory of wire movement. Then ohm test from end to end then wiggle everything you can while watching the ohm meter. If you still holding 0 ohms then there is no issues to this circuit. I would watch with a live data tool and see if there is common reaction.

That's easy just ohm out the sensors back to the ECM. If you got 5 ohms or more from all sensors then I would say the S165 would be bad. Then again if the sensor signal ground is weak then the voltage would be high and you would have a entire series of hi volt codes or rather strange sensors reading across the board. So I would be just checking with a ohm meter from sensor plug to ECM plug to verify the wiring since its all 5 volt system and low current.

Like fuel leaks, etc. Yes, that is true. But it amazes me how many people towing heavy trailers and don't even have gauges and assume it will never get too hot. Out here the common fire place for vehicle fires is Whitebird grade. Going up people burn them down from excessive heat (gas or diesel). More so common with modified diesels. Like the last one I was called to was a Ford with a 12V Cummins without gauges and towing a gooseneck with a Chevy on the back. Then on the way down the truckers typically ride their brakes till they catch fire another common fire call for us. But the basics is you heat or ignition source for a fuel to burn. Be it actual fuel (gas or diesel) or maybe a different fuel like plastic or other burnable materials. Typical engine fires either liquid fuel got to something very hot or something very hot got to the fuel. Fuels (anything burnable) is typically harmless till there is a source of heat and/or ignition.

ECM, PCM and VP44 ground... G115 ground wire above and the wiring diagram below...

That what gauges are for... Keep things from getting too hot.

Won't heat the fuel tank... Everything in the fuel tank is ice cold and clouding up. More or less like attempting to pump orange juice with pulp. The first few minutes will be fine till the pulp (wax) start to pile up on the filter. This why the fuel fuel heater is provided is to hopefully heat the fuel enough to get above the clouding point of the fuel.

You could make a youtube out of it. Then post the youtube link here.

Hang on a sec. You are break out of the 2nd generation. Now why is it that I've got a 20 year old 2nd Gen without kind of torque convert lock up issues? Why is it that most of these trucks in the 2nd gen bracket went at least 10 years without a problem? So my question is what failed? It more of the fact of return back to the state it was designed and working not band-aiding over a issues. Like the standard noise filters, tin foil, and extra grounds. These trucks can be repair back to working state without modification.

Even with temps as low as -15*F this winter I've only seen fuel pressure drop maybe 1 PSI lower than typical. No warm up time. Might consider changing fuel filters to be sure the filter isn't just half plugged up with dirt. Also the fall out might be the pressure regulator sticking open on the Raptor which they are known for doing.

Is it possible your just hearing the excessive timing from cold IAT temps?

Hang on a sec. ECM has zero to do with transmission lock up. The PCM is the sole controller in both the gas and diesel engines. As for the TPS vs APPS they are both the same as a 3 pin rheostat providing a 0-5 Volt signal. As for the extra 3 pin s that just the idle validation again has nothing to do with PCM functions. Both the 96 and 02 trucks both have 140 amp alternators no different just the field terminals are nutted on instead of a plug. Same charging system from 1994 to 2002. Never changed from the gas or diesel. So no that leads back to the same thing why is it that I gone all these years without a lock up issues? Simple the alternator noise is low and the battery cables are kept up. No huge design secret...

Kind of like Batteries... There is only a handful of producers so everything is just rebranded or reboxed different names.

Again... Why is my 1996 Dodge 1500 with a 46re transmission still running fine and without issues of TQ converter lock up? Same alternator, same PCM software, no issues. It's about the alternator, cables and battery condition. Even I got stung on the ABS module when the alternator failed not a diode but the rear bearing and brushes.

Hmmm... There is no other part supplier up here for all these tires shops. All you have is NAPA. Also I would have to ask the question of how many people are having issues from just oversized tires or lift kit issues?

Down here in the hole the temperature is warmer. Low this morning at +21*F. But New Meadows proper is much much colder most likely below zero.

Like I said the ones I've got now are from Rockauto.com. I would just get something from NAPA and be done. Can't tell me that all these front end shops buy high dollar parts. Heck no they just order NAPA ball joints. If they were so bad of joint places like Les Schwab would be getting complaints from constant warranty work.

I was down there yesterday to Ontario, OR travel temperature ranged from -7* to +7* from New Meadows... It was cold out that for sure...

Maybe so... But I paid right around $120 bucks for all 4 ball joints and still going after all this time.

If those lugs are soldered on the copper wire will be sealed as well from corrosion leaking into the strands. Kind of like soldering to copper pipe joints together. Crimping works but still soldering is the best method. Then the shrink tube over the top just makes it bulletproof. klcammie would you be willing to make a write up of this? Be awesome to add to the article database.

Oil pressure senders have been known to fail. P0237 is exactly what it is a lo volt code for the MAP sensor. Won't have any bearing on the transmission. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low Speed sensor in the transmission good?

Dude... I couldn't even do that...

My factor ball joints lasted for 180k miles.

Little information to make you think. The lower joint is a actual BALL Joint with a ball on the end of the taper. The upper is not a BALL joint but a SHAFT joint. The upper has a long rod like shaft into the cup.

They was a discussion about the plastics used in them too. I think Wild & Free was the one that mention it.