Mopar1973Man

Good article... http://allnewspipeline.com/Police_Chief_Revolution_Wolf_On_Its_Way.php

I happen to be wondering the web a bit and stumbled across Timbo's page and he's added new videos on calibration and adjustment of the Timbo's APPS sensor. http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/Calibration_video.html

Yes you can just switch over to MPG mode. Actually it needs to drop below 140*F to restart the last set mode.

I carry chains in my trucks because of where I live. Have I used them? Not really. It nice to know you have a fall back plan. Being there is a lack of cell service who are you going to call? I've got to be responsible for me and the vehicle.

Now I see it thanks Bill!

Ah ok...

Can someone re-post that... I don't see anything. I've got 3 computers that show nothing in Bill's post.

What ever you do for replacement have the new one tested. I've seen both Bosch and ND alternators brand new in the box FAIL without ever making it to the vehicle.

I would just base your travel on the weather. If the weather gets bad I would just hole up for the night or period of time till the storm passes. I would gear up the truck with everything you might need for just stopping along the highway. As for chains the only time I use chains is if I'm going somewhere I really shouldn't. Most of the Idaho winters here I've travelled mostly in 2WD and towed smaller trailers snowmobile or a utility with a pair of ATV's. So like if I was to travel a unmaintained road say like up to Rex Bakers place which is 6 miles up a forestry road yeah I would be chaining up. Travelling down a typically maintained highway I would be in 2WD unless it was snow covered then most likely 4WD. Now towing that beast behind you that going to be a different story.

I've got shipping confirmation for December 14th I can continue this fun project of learning ABS.

Change Minnesota to Idaho... I don't wear a jacket till the temperature is in the 20's or lower.

Be aware... My alternator test GOOD. Now the crazy part the rear bearing was good but the rear housing was damaged allowing the alternator shaft to bounce. This in turn ate the brushes quick on one. Then it turn created a weak connection on the slip rings. Still pass the test bench though. Another way is to use a AC voltmeter that can measure small voltage like 0.01 to 0.1 AC Volts. Basically start the truck and with all your loads you can turn on. Now measure at the BATT post of the alternator red lead and your black lead just touch to either the alternator case or the passenger side NEG post. Best to test on the alternator case though. 0.01 to 0.03 is about normal. 0.05 is marginal. Might get away without problems or might be random. 0.1 AC volts and greater is a fail.

Umm???

Nice way of looking at it. Green good, Red Bad. Most of us aim for 14-20 PSI.

Lock and unlock is the alternator. I would pull the alternator have have it tested for AC noise. The P0122 is just a lo volt code for the APPS sensor. Typically this would make for a dead pedal more so than cycling the torque converter.

Threads like this make me happy I stopped where I did. Lot less of...

Holy cow your getting a lot of action up there. Hopefully you have fuel reserves topped off for your generator, chainsaw and vehicles. For myself it doesn't seem like anything is going to happen. Weather is unseasonably warm right now at 45*F and raining. No snow in sight even the mountains in my view are without snow now. River is picking up volume though. Just checking the traffic cameras it seem its raining all the way up to McCall which is not good for us. (Flooding possible?)

Stock OE APPS uses rheostat voltage to trigger each switch. So when the voltage rises above the tag voltage as seen 0.519 volts the the throttling IVS is grounded. Below that voltage the idling IVS switch is grounded. So if you upgrade to the Timbo's APPS this all goes away because its a mechanical switch and not a circuit like seen above.

Idle Validation switch. Pins 6, 2 and 1... (Just hover on the dotted underline stuff and it shows its real names) All APPS sensors have it. Even Timbo's. It just the IVS tells the ECM if your truly idling or throttling. No issue. Just enjoy your high idle kit. Well there might be an issue with your APPS in the future if the code returns.

I just had a phone call last night with a High idle issue. The owner couldn't enable high idle on a cold start but could after warm up. What was happening he's got a Stock APPS sensor and the IVS is not in IDLE position at start up so the idle appears normal. But the IVS is in throttling mode so high idle won't engage. So he told me if he revs it 2-3 times and then set the high idle it engages. Sure sign the APPS sensor is failing on the IVS side of thing.

Scale of 1 to 10 I give a solid 9 for them. I would use them as a module rebuilder. Tech support is awesome very knowledgeable people. All cleaned up. All screws sealed, All seams re-sealed water tight. Most of this on the bottom which isn't in the picture. Here is Before it left. Being from the computer industry myself I understand how difficult it can be to fight with electronics and some time the most simple little over looked item can bite you. That's why I'm glad I've got the 5 year warranty with Module Masters so I know one way or another it will get resolved. Like "Phil" the tech that is working with me, was asking if I could read error codes from the ABS module to get to him so we knew if I needed to mail it back or not. I just about opted to just mail it back. Then MoparMom and I discussed the fact of there is no one in the area with the ability to diagnose ABS issues. Why not corner the market and add it to my business. OK! So the repair with be delayed and I'll get a good ABS code reader. Now then I'll be able to read the codes from any ABS module. Again I plan on adding this to my biusiness here so I will continue to use Module Master as a rebuild of all different kinds of modules from here on out!

We tested this on several different truck back with Ed Grafton. 500-700 HP trucks and twin turbos. No issues it just hovers at normal operating temperature. Just twist the knob to what you wish to use. The only limitation is the last set high idle mode will continue to be remembered. So for example if you set 3 cylinder high idle for warm up. Even if you select 6 cylinder later it will resume 3 cylinder. The way of resetting is to shut the truck down for 5-10 second and start back up. So basically rebooting the ECM empty. As for OFF, MPG and 6 CYL modes you can select them any time you wish. Like my truck I just leave MPG set. Yes. If you roll the knob to slow it will trigger errors. Even the switch I've got has a really crisp notch to each setting. so I've not had that problem with this switch yet. Yes. Sitting and idling there will be no change. Now if you change it while driving you'll hear a timing shift. In OFF there should be a cold timing rattle (advanced) then when you switch while driving should hear it fade out (retard). For some reason Chrysler thought we needed per steep timing curve for morning warm up. Funny the P7100 doesn't have any dynamic timing at all. 3CYL mode is basically every other cylinder firing. FIRING ORDER: 1 5 3 6 2 4 So 1,2 and 3 are dead cylinders with out fuel and just pumping air. 4,5 and 6 are firing working against the drag of 1,2,and 3 so more fuel is used and hotter pyrometer is typically noted. Like average is about 600*F pyrometer without exhaust brake. With a exhaust brake it can reach about 800-900*F easy. Be aware large injectors can drive this even higher! So like my setup up with mere +50 HP injectors I can go from subzero coolant temp to 175*F in about 10 minutes on average.

G115 does NOT hook to the body. Its a direct connection to the battery on the passenger side battery. Glad your safe...

Little insight here... Taz is friend of mine that is not new to the Cummins game. He's had a 1992 Dodge Cummins before. Sold it and now upgraded to 2006 Dodge now. He use to live right here in Riggins, ID but move on to Washington. Welcome back Taz to the family!

Ok. The CCD voltages look close to correct with open plug. 2.51 and 2.49 is normal. Your darn close to that! As for the Rear speed sensor that should be OHMs about 1.7k ohms. now if you set for AC volts you spin the rear axle the speed sensor should create a small amount of AC voltage. About 0.2 AC volts. It actually frequency you should be looking with a O-scope.