Mopar1973Man

Update... Gorilla Glue doesn't bind to plastic very well. So project delayed till Monday.

Hey Gang... I figured I would share my attempt at fixing my electric driver seat on my 1996 Dodge Ram. Now when I started the motor wouldn't even turn. So I verified the power was coming from the switch. Rock the switch one way you got power and rock it the other and power again but reversed polarity which is correct. No I grabbed a Allen socket and turned the motor a bit by had and it got loosen up. Then I can hit the switch and the motor turns for a short time binds up. (sigh) something is wrong in the gears. So after slowing ratching the motor around I was able to get the seat high enough to pull the 4 bolts in the seat bottom and just lay in the back seat area. Now I got good working room. Now you'll need a rod or in my case I used a small #1 Phillips screw driver and a hammer to knock out the 2 pins. There is one pin holding the motor and the other pin holding the screw casing to the seat frame. Now from here I got the motor out and the gear case is just a couple of small hex head metal screws. As you'll see the both gears are damaged. One is completely broke the tip off and the other split the gear (not shown). Now using lacquer thinner I cleaned both gears up and got all the grease off the gears. Next using some Gorilla Glue and a razor blade I was able to push the Gorilla Glue all the way down in the cracks really well. Using my table vise I clamped the gear carefully to squeeze the plastic back together and allow the glue to set up. This will be easy to clean up with a small shop knife or file to clean the gear up. Now I moved on to the broken gear. Found it was hollow so I hunted around the shop for something solid I can place in the core of the gear to give strength after gluing. I found a metal clothes hanger and snip a very small chunk off. Light reamed out the hole just enough to make it solid. So I'm waiting for the one gear to set up right now and then I'll glue this gear as well.

Here you go a wiring diagram. exterior.pdf exterior.pdf

Posts like this, make me lose faith in ASE certified mechanics. As for getting any money back I doubt it. As for diagnosing this... There is a few different thing involved here. You have the ABS computer bringing the speed signal. The central timer under the dash receiving the input from the steering wheel. PCM that has the cruise control software. Then feed throttle information to the ECM by wire. So as for the cruise light being on I would start at the steering wheel control and central timer.

2-3 inches... Nothing to write home about....

Call Module Masters in Moscow, Idaho. They rebuild modules and clusters for a fraction of the price. Have a excellent warranty on the work too.

I just ran across some of my "Creosote Makers" when bringing in my firewood today. This little piece of wood with this thick layer of pitch will create some serious smoke and creosote. As this is kind of after the initial black... But its still smoking hard after one little piece put in the fire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pothHyqnIWM

In the switch itself.

Could you paste a link or a upload attachment for that map...

CSM is correct. There should be a heated mirror button just below the temperature knob for the HVAC. There is a little light on the control that will light up. The mirrors don't light up.

Neither do. The only thing that cleans the system is a quality fuel filter. If you want to clean your injectors you have to remove them and disassemble each one and clean by hand. There is no product on the shelf that will clean the fuel system. Just for example Power Service is 400:1 ratio so that means you add 11.2 ounces of Power Service to 4,480 ounces of fuel. More or less pissin' in a pond. I know that you can pick any product take a single injector and soak it for over 24 hours 100% of any product and still have a dirty injector. tried it... No. Return pressure is not a requirement. 14-20 PSI supply pressure is the only requirement.

I say the switch has failed. The relay is only for the trailer running lights. Different circuit.

Not hard at all to do just time consuming. I've got heater core job coming Sunday.

Matter of fact I just got off the phone with my Fire Chief this evening. He's trying to get me to jump in the HVAC for homes. The local guy here is charging huge numbers for charging freon in a system. Ranging from $1,800 to nearly $3,000 for freon charging. He knows of several homes in the area that have heat pumps and the owners just don't have the money to charge them. So they spend big money on propane or electric heat. Just while I was on the phone I did a search for a 30# can of freon for as low as $79 buck for R134a and $379 for R22. Just sickening to see a local that knows he's the only one in the area and stab everyone for this steep price. Sure did catch my attention on the R134a though $79 buck for 30# of it that's cheap! I know what I'm doing for spring time I'm going to invest in a scale and 30# can for summer time automotive A/C work!

I know in the old school Dodge trucks (1970's) there was a adjustment on the knuckles for stop points. Our trucks there isn't any stop point. So I would be inspecting all the linkage for loose ends or damaged ball joints. Something is wore out and allowing that tie rod to hit the differential which is not normal.

I highly suggest you just pull the entire thing down and open the HVAC case. I've found in several cases the evaporator is plugged up with debris. Could be from mice, pine needles, etc. But it will do you no good to change heater core and have the evaporator plugged up or blend door on a broken shaft etc. With the HVAC case out you can inspect all this stuff.

My first web site I joined was Diesel Truck Resource. Then joined Cummins Forum short after that.

A lot of people down south delete the grid heater all together. I've started my truck at the low temp of 25*F once and rather rough start missing, lots of white smoke till the cylinder temp came up then it settled down and ran normally. I would say it best to start with grid heaters on a initial cold start after that you can leave the switch in MPG mode.

Just like my photo here... You can see I'm sitting on a 3 panel scale. This is my scale numbers for my RV but you'll get the drift.

VP44 has taken damage. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/227-p1688-internal-fuel-injection-pump-failure Being that said I would have the alternator tested. Excessive AC noise can and will take out electronic modules.

Like myself, I'm NOT a ASE Certified mechanic, I don't have insurance or anything fancy. Again, I'm NOT A+ Certified Computer Tech also don't have insurance for that either. Still to this day, I continue to do jobs. A matter of fact I just got a heater core job yesterday from a local rancher. No one else wants to do the job.

IIRC what I wrote in the driver side door is 57 PSI front and 43 PSI rear for standard empty driving for my truck weights. Now for towing its 53 PSI in the front and 57 PSI in the rear and I'm right at 160 pounds short of GVWR on the scale. So basically in a nutshell at full 8,800 pounds on the scale you should never be inflated over 60 PSI front and rear.

Yea I think he's right. Looking even at my old photo its going to push coolant out the vent more so than out the A/C drain.