Mopar1973Man

The Edge Comp is installed with a Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover. A lot of people are wondering how hard it is to install. I hate to say it, but it's extremely simple. I think the biggest thing is installing the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover. First off...Disconnect your batteries! - Negative cables. I got smart and started with the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover installation. Which is basically loosen the clamps (2 - 7/16" nuts) on the air tube on the drive side and move it aside. Remember to stick a rag in both holes. Then remove the APPS off the engine (3 - 13mm bolts). Now you got a good view of the top of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. So now you take the supplied tamper-proof Torx bit and a nut driver and remove all 5 bolts out of the Bosch VP44 injection pump cover plate. Save you old plate! DON'T THROW IT AWAY! Now you take you Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover and install it in place of the old cover plate. Once you got the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover mounted snug all the bolts gently. Now take the supplied Allen screw and thread it in the tapped hole with your fingers till it stops. Now get out a test light or a DVM. I used a DVM. Hook up the batteries and turn the ignition ON. Ground your test light or DVM lead and touch the Allen screw with the positive lead. Now tighten the Allen screw till you get 12V or a bright light. Then turn an extra 1/2 turn. Now disconnect your batteries again. Now strip the wire and crimp on the supplied ends (ring terminal and blade terminal). Put the ring terminal on the Allen screw and using the supplied nut tighten down the nut snug! No more than snug, though. Don't want to strip the threads in the plastic. Now assemble the APPS on the engine and the air tube. So when your done it should look like...

Edge Comp Settings From what I understand when your setting you power levels you got the main number (1-5) and the sub level (1-5). To set the sub-level press the power switch and hold for a few seconds and release. The LED bars will be flashing rapidly. Now you can adjust the sub-level. The main number controls the maximum fuel rate and maximum timing advancement. This it the amount of total fuel at WOT that will be used. Higher the number the more fuel at WOT. Main Level Horse Power / Timing 1 40 2 60 3 80 4 100 5 120 The sub number is how quick it will get to maximum fuel rate and maximum timing advancement by boost pressure. Higher the number the less boost required to get to full fuel rate and timing advancement. This also might create black smoke during acceleration. Sub Level Fuel Rate / Timing 1 33% of Fuel is supplied until 20 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 2 50% of Fuel is supplied until 15 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 3 67% of Fuel is supplied until 10 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 4 adds less fuel than Sub-level 5 5 adds the most fuel at low boost Recommended setting is 4x4 or 5x5. Reason being is that most of you every day driving on city streets and highways you will never be able to keep the boost above 10 PSI. That means once the Edge falls in de-fuel mode you've lost you time advancement and any kind of fuel enhancement. The de-fuel mode is a de-fuel stock mode which you want to avoid. De-fuel mode was designed for people that have a large turbo and/or large injectors and it gives them a way to control smoke till the turbo spools up.

High Pressure Injection Lines Removal This short article is how to remove the injection lines from your Dodge Cummins 24 valve engine. Most all fuel system work requires removal of the high-pressure injection lines from the Bosch VP44 injection pump to the head. I'm going to show you how easy it really is to remove the high-pressure injection lines from the Cummins 24v engine. The first parts you need to remove a few things from the area to make room. APPS Sensor Intake Tube Grid Heaters It doesn't require complete removal of these parts, but it does require them to be moved. So like the 4 bolts on the intake and 1 clamp and then lay the tube and heater over by the PDC box. Same goes for the APPS sensor 3 bolts and disconnect the sensor plug and lay over with the Intake tube. WARNING! Make sure to pack the manifold and intercooler tube with rags to prevent parts or debris falling into the tube or engine! Now look at the top of the intake manifold you'll see the high-pressure injection lines holders are bolted down to the intake manifold cover. There 5 bolts (10mm) you got to remove. This will release the high-pressure injection lines from the intake manifold. Now look back of the intake manifold there is an engine hoist ring take the 2 bolts (15mm) out of that and remove it. The will allow access to cylinder number 6. Now everything should be loose and ready to removed. The first batch of high-pressure injection lines with being the front set which will be 1,2,4. When you look at the Bosch VP44 injection pump it will be these. The picture below is showing just the front set of high-pressure injection lines and the position on the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Now the rear set of high-pressure injection lines come off. Cylinders 3,5,6

How To Install an AirDog 150 Fuel System The AirDog 150 fuel pump is a good design kit. It comes complete with all hardware, mountings, fitting, hoses etc. to hook up to your Dodge Cummins Truck. It was rather easy to install on my truck since I already had a Vulcan Big line Kit and Carter campaign lift pump. Mounting suggestion (for 4WD trucks) is that you push the pump forward towards the transfer case so the skid plate can protect the pump and filters from road debris. But make sure you leave enough room to access the transfer case for fluid checks and drain and fill service. As for doing plumbing it rather straight forward. Route the hose and cut to size. But I'll make another suggestion. Look your routing over very carefully for a place to protect the fuel line from damages (sharp body edges, tight spots that could pinch, or get snagged by road debris, etc) Also remember to include enough room for your connectors. Below is the return fuel setup. As for doing the electrical is also very straight forward too. It was designed rather good too. Looks just like stock wire harness. Suggestion for routing of wiring. The pump power leg should be routed with the taillight harness on the truck then you can zip-tie to the existing wiring and it look rather factory looking. The relay and fuse can be mounted on the firewall by the ABS controller. There is an existing ground wire in this location and I utilized the screw to mount both the fuse and relay on this ground screw. Draw straws Install (Old School) Now for the draw straw kit took some time and consideration. You got to ways of installing the draw straw by pulling the bed of the frame or to drop the tank. Since I've got a topper on my bed and lots of stuff in the bed of my truck it would be best to drop the tank. Here is a picture of the tank removed and I did prop it up on wood so the bottom of the tank didn't get flattened. Now you got to drill your hole for the draw straw. I use a 1¼" I drilled it on a high spot of the tank towards the front. After a period of time has passed now I found out that the hole should be smaller like 1 1/8" hole. Basically, now all you got to do is assemble the draw straw part and install it into the tank. But you'll find out that the straw is a bit too long and needs to be trimmed. I pushed the straw into place and measured the amount that it was sticking out of the grommet then trimmed it off. I did add some grooves to the bottom of the straw to keep it from sucking flat to the bottom. Now I get asked a lot about how much gap to the bottom of the tank you need for the draw straw. This is an easy answer you want to place a quarter (coin) on the bottom of the tank and the tip of the draw straw should just touch that. Seem tight, right? Well think about the weight of diesel at roughly 6.6 pounds per gallon there will be 60 pounds of diesel pressing down on the tank bottom at a quarter tank so this measurement will widen with more fuel and less as the tank empties. I lightly notched the tip of the draw straw to keep if from ever sucking flat to the bottom. As for performance I've managed to run down below 1/8 tank warning light several different times now with no problems. So now you should be complete. The Draw Straw should be all assembled and installed in the tank. So now re-install the fuel tank and hook up fuel line going to the AirDog 150. All you need to do now is re-prime your fuel system. My results were great. I've got awesome fuel pressure now.

This article is on how to disassemble a Cummins 24v VP44 injector and thoroughly clean and then reassemble it.For starters, you need to refer back to injector removal and get all 6 Injectors removed from the engine. Once you got all six injectors out you can proceed to clean each injector. But something to be aware of there is small parts and these parts must be put back exactly the way it came apart. WARNING! Only disassemble and clean only 1 injector at a time. All the parts are tuned to that particular body. Don't mix and match parts! Then before you can remove the nut you need to remove your copper washer. This can be done with a putty knife and a hammer just lightly tap the putty knife and it should be able to pry it up enough to using the putty knife or a screwdriver. Now as I set my torque wrench for loosening and kept adding torque to the handle adjustment looking for the click and loosening of the nut. I found it at about 32 foot/pounds so I backed off to 30 foot/pounds and set the wrench. Loosen the nut. Now you need a clean area too. I set up a shop towel and an old ashtray. I filled the ashtray with Coleman fuel (Naphtha). So I would open up the injector carefully and place all the parts in the solvent to soak. Now in the picture above there is a shim that goes in the bottom below the spring. This shim might be stuck inside the body don't sweat it let in soak in the Coleman fuel for about 5 minutes and pick it up and it will fall out. Now that all the parts are soaking take an old scotch bright one that's been used a bit and rather soft. dip it in the solvent and light rub the nozzle clean of soot. Yes, you may rub the tip but be gentle about it. Now look at the pintle (needle) look at the tip for damage or wear... Now check it for smooth sliding action in the nozzle. If it feels rough rub the pintle gently with the scotch bright pad and it will help it out... I was doing a mini-spray test too... Dip the nozzle in the solvent keeping the fuel hole up and holding the nozzle horizontal using a blow gun just a light burst of air will show you your spray pattern somewhat but also ensures the nozzle tip is not plugged. Now just blow all the large parts clean and dry from the solvent. Make sure to blow the fuel passages clear. Once you happy with the clean up and every is clean now reassembly the injector exactly the way it came apart. Put your shim in the body take notice of which side was up. You'll also notice the shim has worn marks from the spring so be sure to put it back in the right way. The shim has to be this side up... Take notice to the side that has the wear mark for the spring... Then place your spring the body. Then there is a cone shaped piece that goes on top of the spring but make sure to place the hollow side up. This is for the pintle to ride in. The mid body goes on top of this take notice to the pins it will only go on one way... Then your nozzle and pintle go on top to look like this... Here is a good video of how I did each injector.

Reprime Bosch VP44 Injection Pump The Fuel System Cummins This is an article on how to reprime the Bosch VP44 Injection fuel system on a 24V Dodge Ram Turbo Cummins. A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the fuel system when fuel system components on the supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or replaced. Primary air bleeding is accomplished using the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump. If the vehicle has been allowed to run completely out of fuel, the fuel injectors must also be bled as the fuel injection pump is not self-bleeding (priming). Servicing or replacing components on the fuel return side will not require air bleeding. DANGER! DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE. Loosen, but do not remove, banjo bolt (test port fitting) holding low-pressure fuel supply line to the side of Bosch VP44 injection pump. Place a shop towel around banjo fitting to catch the excess fuel. The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and then disengaged without allowing the engine to start. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running. Turn the key to CRANK position and quickly release the key to ON position before engine starts. This will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25 seconds. If fuel is not present at fuel supply line after 25 seconds, turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until fuel is exiting at fuel supply line. Tighten banjo bolt at fuel supply line to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Primary air bleeding is now completed. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine will not start, proceed to following steps. If the engine does start, it may run erratically and be very noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition. Continue to next step if: The vehicle fuel tank has been allowed to run empty The Bosch VP44 fuel injection pump has been replaced High-pressure fuel lines have been replaced Vehicle has not been operated after an extended period WARNING! Do not engage the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes between cranking intervals. Perform previous air bleeding procedure steps using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at fuel supply line before proceeding. Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to allow air trapped in the injection pump to vent out the drain manifold. DANGER! THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND AVOID CONTACT WITH FUEL SPRAY WHEN BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES. WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR. DANGER! ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR. The engine may start, may run erratically and be very noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition. Thoroughly clean area around injector fittings where they join injector connector tubes. Bleed air by loosening high-pressure fuel line fittings at cylinders number 3, 4 and 5. Continue bleeding injectors until engine runs smoothly. It may take a few minutes for the engine to run smooth. Tighten fuel line(s) at injector(s) to 38 N·m (28 ft. lbs.) torque.