Mopar1973Man

Wow! A normal sticks & bricks home its OK to pull from inside? Building codes are all whacked...

It would be best to ditch the cold air intake for the wood stove. Pre-heated air for the wood stove will allow you to throttle back more without creosote issues and you won't have to sweat to death either. (Back fire fighting training) You need to pre-heat your fuel to make the wood burn. This why like house fires and forest fire burn so well in the summer time because all the fuel is pre-heated to 100 plus degrees. Now in the winter time even camp fire have trouble burning because of the cold air taking away pre-heat ability of the fire. More prone to stalling out a fire with cold air. Like ventilating a house fire your pushing the pre-heated air and gasses out so the fire can't spread. So I would pull that cold air intake off the stove and allow the warm inside air to feed the stove works much better!

Even though the P7100 is oil lubricated for the cam inside but the rest of the fuel system is fuel lubricated. There is still lots of metal on metal contact like pintle/needle and nozzle inside the injectors. Your lift pump is fuel lubricated. That's because as cetane goes down the BTU's go up. 2 cycle oil is a natural cetane reducer.

Remember it lubricates everything including injectors and lift pump reducing wear.

I would test with another testvgauge to verify. Most times it's just a sender. There is always the chance its an actual oil pump issue.

Kind of like myself I burn alpine fir and spruce for my mild fuel not as pitchy as red fir. So alpine fir and spruce I can throttle stove back more without ceosote issues. Then now with the cold nights the red fir burns hotter keeping the house toasty.

Living in the mountains of Idaho and I'm getting over 180k out of brake pads on stock 16" brakes. I'd say look towards exhaust before going to 17" inch tires and brakes. Even my 1996 Gasser got quite bit of miles on the brakes still not wore out after all these years. I bought it back 2001. Just to make you all think abit.

LOL. I don't even know the power is gone out. My inverter is so quick to transfer over I don't feel any changes at all. I only lose stove, oven and the drier. Everything else works just fine well. So how I tell if the power is back on I just click the oven time to 0 minutes so it buzzing when the power comes back on. Even transferring back to city power is seamless and don't see any change. I only need the generate more so if days are more cloudy than sunny. Winter time is mostly generator usage being our direct sunlight hours are very limited. So morning we would use the generator for recharging from the night discharge then maybe charge on last time before bed. I've gotten use to living on a 30 Amp service. We learned how to share power for big appliances. Toaster, coffee pot, etc. So when the power does drop there is certain then we turn off and use only when needed. Like water heater that is flipped off at the breaker. Like I said before depends on the reason if it a long term I would fire up the RV for a shower house and such. Temporary outage just turn off the water heater. Oh it converted from 4,500w 220vac to 1,100w 110vac. Much less load.

Just to confirm AH64ID my eight 6V batteries total up to $4,800 for the set. Not cheap. @AH64ID You might to be very very careful with the back feed idea. I know it works but if for some reason the main breaker doesn't open or was forgotten you might electrocute power company worker or cause a serious over load of your generator as it attempts to power the neighborhood. I know this most likely won't happen but always best to error to the side of caution.

As I sit here tonight I'm sitting in my chair with shorts and tee shirt on nearly sweating at 79-82*F inside the house burning Red Fir. No fans needed it just cooking hot most of the time in here. I'm having to throttle back the stove to keep from roasting to death upstairs. Another secret we close down the rooms not used and only heat the living areas we are using. The use the cooled rooms to throttle the temperature in the main living area.

I notice there is small differences between our two clutches.

There is a App for Mobile Devices that you can look up every type of car and it will tell you where the airbags are located as well as the nitrogen cylinders. This was before I had a mobile device so I didn't write down. Now I'm wishing I did.

China made stuff first before USA made don't you know.

That's standard protocol with the fire dept is get to the battery and cut the ground (negative) before attempting to enter or remove a patient from a vehicle. The time frame can be shorten but general rule minimum of 5 minutes and the airbag module should be discharged. 15 minutes is just a better safety stand point for mechanic work and much less chances of it still firing off. I've taken a extrication course in Donnelly ID (certified). I've seen what a airbag can do to people its not pretty.

Pretty simple really. Just unhook the battery and leave the vehicle alone for 15 minutes minimum. The entire airbag system should be disarmed after that. Just make sure no one is inside the vehicle when the batteries are hooked up for safety.

I'm no better... I need to replace the battery on the main house generator. I know its shot. I want to actually create a custom cord from the generator to the inverter with the auto start feature enabled. So if the generator is rolled outside and plug in the main twist lock and then add a second plug for start/kill function then I can set the inverter software to auto start and shutdown. This would reduce my fuel usage big time. If I had the generator permanently mounted and wired then I could set up the exercise function too which just auto starts and runs the generator for set period of time. Then shuts down.

Personally. I'd love to see a 4 foot winter here in my yard again. Been many many years ago. Even a winter with enough snow so I can use my blade on the ATV is good. I want deep.

Ok. So there is 2 people with them. Now lets see some good night time distance pictures. Nick has shown 2 pictures facing a wall. I want to see light distance...

Truck some of that white stuff to Idaho we can use some. Better yet, hitch up that cloud and tow it back here! I'm sure you Cummins can do it.

Heck you could of got a NAPA reman'ed power steering pump and done Cowboys steering pump mod and had the same thing. Would of saved a bunch! http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/70-steering-and-suspension/502-hotrod-ps-pump Vacuum pump seal kits from Cummins is only $13 bucks. Again another cheap fix. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/469-vacuum-pump-rebuild

Yeah and no. By Thanksgiving the sky resorts should be opened and running with well above 4 foot of snow. http://brundage.com/snow-report/ 16" at the base and 22" at the summit... Way behind yet. Thanksgiving is just around the corner.

12V lift pump had issues with performance. http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html So with high performance in mind most moved back over to AirDog, FASS or some sort electric lift pump to resolve the high RPM volume loss.

Didn't bother with shrink tubing. I know its all within a tubed frame and not like being exposed under the trailer like most. I know optimally it would of been best to shrink it all. My shrink tubing supply is very limited.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/212-p1291-no-temperature-rise-seen-from-intake-heaters Start here with the link above and do what you can of the diagnostic.

Me??? You are mistaken JAG... Cycle the ignition key 3 times and count the flashes. I know this is tough for most people. The error codes are basic flash codes from CHECK ENGINE light. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/1st-generation-dodge-cummins/108-dumping-error-codes