Mopar1973Man

Threads like this make me happy I stopped where I did. Lot less of...

Holy cow your getting a lot of action up there. Hopefully you have fuel reserves topped off for your generator, chainsaw and vehicles. For myself it doesn't seem like anything is going to happen. Weather is unseasonably warm right now at 45*F and raining. No snow in sight even the mountains in my view are without snow now. River is picking up volume though. Just checking the traffic cameras it seem its raining all the way up to McCall which is not good for us. (Flooding possible?)

Stock OE APPS uses rheostat voltage to trigger each switch. So when the voltage rises above the tag voltage as seen 0.519 volts the the throttling IVS is grounded. Below that voltage the idling IVS switch is grounded. So if you upgrade to the Timbo's APPS this all goes away because its a mechanical switch and not a circuit like seen above.

Idle Validation switch. Pins 6, 2 and 1... (Just hover on the dotted underline stuff and it shows its real names) All APPS sensors have it. Even Timbo's. It just the IVS tells the ECM if your truly idling or throttling. No issue. Just enjoy your high idle kit. Well there might be an issue with your APPS in the future if the code returns.

I just had a phone call last night with a High idle issue. The owner couldn't enable high idle on a cold start but could after warm up. What was happening he's got a Stock APPS sensor and the IVS is not in IDLE position at start up so the idle appears normal. But the IVS is in throttling mode so high idle won't engage. So he told me if he revs it 2-3 times and then set the high idle it engages. Sure sign the APPS sensor is failing on the IVS side of thing.

Scale of 1 to 10 I give a solid 9 for them. I would use them as a module rebuilder. Tech support is awesome very knowledgeable people. All cleaned up. All screws sealed, All seams re-sealed water tight. Most of this on the bottom which isn't in the picture. Here is Before it left. Being from the computer industry myself I understand how difficult it can be to fight with electronics and some time the most simple little over looked item can bite you. That's why I'm glad I've got the 5 year warranty with Module Masters so I know one way or another it will get resolved. Like "Phil" the tech that is working with me, was asking if I could read error codes from the ABS module to get to him so we knew if I needed to mail it back or not. I just about opted to just mail it back. Then MoparMom and I discussed the fact of there is no one in the area with the ability to diagnose ABS issues. Why not corner the market and add it to my business. OK! So the repair with be delayed and I'll get a good ABS code reader. Now then I'll be able to read the codes from any ABS module. Again I plan on adding this to my biusiness here so I will continue to use Module Master as a rebuild of all different kinds of modules from here on out!

We tested this on several different truck back with Ed Grafton. 500-700 HP trucks and twin turbos. No issues it just hovers at normal operating temperature. Just twist the knob to what you wish to use. The only limitation is the last set high idle mode will continue to be remembered. So for example if you set 3 cylinder high idle for warm up. Even if you select 6 cylinder later it will resume 3 cylinder. The way of resetting is to shut the truck down for 5-10 second and start back up. So basically rebooting the ECM empty. As for OFF, MPG and 6 CYL modes you can select them any time you wish. Like my truck I just leave MPG set. Yes. If you roll the knob to slow it will trigger errors. Even the switch I've got has a really crisp notch to each setting. so I've not had that problem with this switch yet. Yes. Sitting and idling there will be no change. Now if you change it while driving you'll hear a timing shift. In OFF there should be a cold timing rattle (advanced) then when you switch while driving should hear it fade out (retard). For some reason Chrysler thought we needed per steep timing curve for morning warm up. Funny the P7100 doesn't have any dynamic timing at all. 3CYL mode is basically every other cylinder firing. FIRING ORDER: 1 5 3 6 2 4 So 1,2 and 3 are dead cylinders with out fuel and just pumping air. 4,5 and 6 are firing working against the drag of 1,2,and 3 so more fuel is used and hotter pyrometer is typically noted. Like average is about 600*F pyrometer without exhaust brake. With a exhaust brake it can reach about 800-900*F easy. Be aware large injectors can drive this even higher! So like my setup up with mere +50 HP injectors I can go from subzero coolant temp to 175*F in about 10 minutes on average.

G115 does NOT hook to the body. Its a direct connection to the battery on the passenger side battery. Glad your safe...

Little insight here... Taz is friend of mine that is not new to the Cummins game. He's had a 1992 Dodge Cummins before. Sold it and now upgraded to 2006 Dodge now. He use to live right here in Riggins, ID but move on to Washington. Welcome back Taz to the family!

Ok. The CCD voltages look close to correct with open plug. 2.51 and 2.49 is normal. Your darn close to that! As for the Rear speed sensor that should be OHMs about 1.7k ohms. now if you set for AC volts you spin the rear axle the speed sensor should create a small amount of AC voltage. About 0.2 AC volts. It actually frequency you should be looking with a O-scope.

LOL... Both trucks are put away in their garages. The ATV is fuelled up and ready for action. Bring it on!

I'm going out on a limb to learn more about these ABS issues.

Ok. Here is what is going on. I've got my module back from Module Masters and installed in Saturday morning. Went for test drive still pulling and acting weird. So I waited patiently for Monday to show up. I talked to Module Masters again and the tech suggested I clean all the plugs of di-electric grease and try again. This gave me some sort of uniform problem now that I could diagnose to some degree. I was only getting right pull from about 45 MPH and down to nearly full stop. So I change out the right sensor AGAIN with one of the sensor I've got a pile of. Now the pulling stopped but the ABS/BRAKE light come on now at about 60-65 MPH without touching the brakes. OK... So I order another set of front sensors. (3rd set now). Installed them and got no change. The rear sensor was just changed less than a week ago. So I called Module Masters back and he wanted me to pull codes from the module. There is no one in the valley with a ABS code reader. I called a Dodge Dealer and they want $105 minimum to pull codes not to mention set a appointment. Kind of hard to drive to Lewiston, ID for code reading then go onto Moscow, ID. So MoarMom and myself discussed this whole thing and I've just purchased a Innova Tool that does both ABS and SRS (airbag) codes. I would have to say I got a killer price on the tool. Innova 31603 - $571.xx http://pro.innova.com/Product/FullDetail/f968c286-07ab-46b7-bfd5-bae40673742e I just got it on Amazon for $193.xx (Can't beat that price! Also there is only ONE left!) http://www.amazon.com/Innova-31603-CarScan-Scan-Tool/dp/B00D2I0IDG I'm going to go out on the limb and learn how to resolve these error and do the troubleshooting for ABS and SRS codes.

Pretty small heater. First time I seen it I knew what it was. Kind of like the temp sensor on my house battery bank.

Just make sure to remove the filter. As for the master ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44 is in one wire... Passenger side battery. That in my hand is G115 ground.

Pull each fuse one at a time and measure the DC AMP draw of each fuse you pull. When you find the high amp draw you'll at least know which circuit is drawing.

Driver side battery tray. Remove the driver side battery and the sensor is a round disc on a spring. Also the battery temp sensor affects the grid heater operation.

There is no way to check other than to replace it and hope for change. There is no stated ohm levels being its a thermistor you can check it by ohms. There is no data tools that can see it other the DRBIII tool at a dealer which will most likely cost hour worth of labor to have them plug in and tell you. I think just buying the sensor is cheaper. Bad battery cell could do this too.

Not to hijack. But for high up and away from the river I am. I still been flood twice now. So I know what being flooded out is like. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7G3xcEZKhw

Ok... Then... How about in the blazing heat you able to kick 6 cylinder high idle to help cool down the cab faster with A/C? How about a friend has a dead battery. You can enable 6 cylinder mode and kick the RPM's up to make jump starting easier. Still you can use MPG mode any time you wish. It still gives a mild boost in MPG during the warm up stag.

Just watching the rain here, it has been pouring cats and dogs for a few days. I can imagine the increase in stream flows. So far Idaho is way low and long ways from danger. Now looking over MoparMom's shoulder and seeing the pictures of Portland, OR and its runoff and flooding... My prayers are sent as well.

You could get the high idle feature either by going to a dealer and have them enable it. Or... Barrow a Smarty programmer.

Check you battery temp sensor in the driver side battery tray. If the sensor is damaged then the batteries will most likely over charge.

I would leave it unhooked and see if the module is causing the problems or not. If the ABS module is having troubles and shorting out the CCD network then the rest will crash as long as it's hooked up but if you unhook it and everything works then the module should be returned for warranty service.

If you have a warranty I would send it back or contact them and talk to them and explain the problem. Like mine I just got my module back from "Module Masters" and still had the same problem yet. Come to find out the wanted me to clean the sockets and makes sure the connectors what making good contact. I was using di-electric grease in the plugs. So I clean them out and now found I was getting a consistent issues of pulling right. So I replaced my right sensor with a another used sensor and it went away. So what you'll need to do is get a code reader. Now reset the codes and see what comes up after restarting. Is in the same codes? Now unplug the ABS module (both plugs) and now reset the codes again. Now test it again do the codes return or not? I know either case the speedometer will not function till the CCD network issue is resolved.