Mopar1973Man

Thanks John... I'll being think about doing this very soon!

600-700*F in 6 Cylinder mode with Exhaust brake. 800-900*F in 3 Cylinder mode with Exhaust brake. So... yeah it really does bump the numbers way up!

Drove only 3 miles and power drops off to about to 40 MPH WOT. Rail drops to 3,000 PSI roughly at WOT. Like today we installed a brand new fuel pump (Stock In Tank - NAPA) tested the pressure at the CP3 inlet port seeing 11-13 idle to holding 2,000 RPM free rev. Left the shop. Good rail pressure getting 11,000 to 13,000 PSI driving nicely to allow the truck to warm up. Drove up canyon made it 3 miles and the rail drop out to nearly 2,800-3,000 PSI at WOT. Come back test the lift pump and can pull it down to 3-5 just free revving at 2,000 RPM. I'm really sure the lift pump is dropping to ZERO on a load. I check the fuse, relay, and made sure 12V was getting to the pump. Just not keeping fuel pressure. So I've got another pump coming on warranty tomorrow in McCall. This time I'm going to leave my test gauge on the fuel system when test drive this next go around. Once the fuel pressure drops out its barely 3-5 at idle and rail is at 1,900 PSI and loping/surging at idle. Stalls really easy. Previous initial problem was a error code for the FCA. So I did replace it and no change in performance same issue no error codes. That what lead me to the lift pump. Now we are trying to just keep fuel pressure up so it will keep going. I'm using a Vulcan Performance test gauge 0-30 PSI. Brand New.... As for changing these pump its for the birds...

Things are getting a bit touchy as time goes on and moved to Politics forum.

Curious AH64ID... I know Cowboy made that article on using BB's and air soft BB's is that a option in your book too? I was considering getting a few boxes of BB's and measuring out what Cowboy figured and just installing then to the tires by breaking one bead.

What needs to be done. All the stock supply plumbing need to be removed. Then a Draw Straw in the tank. Install all 1/2" plumbing with Push-Loc JICs fittings. Then you'll have stable fuel pressure. None of the old stock system should be used or left on the truck really.

Time for silicone boots and fresh clamps.

Stock APPS is based on voltage. So looking at the back off the sensor have a voltage tag. BELOW should ground the idle pin. ABOVE will ground the THROTTLING pin. Timbo's APPS its based on bellcrank angle and not on voltage.

That old lift pump and plumbing need to go away if you got a FASS pump on there now.

Well after getting the Vulcan Performance test gauge and hooking it up we found this truck only has a mere 5 PSI at idle. Now rev the engint to 2k and you can pull it down to zero without even putting it into gear. New in-tank fuel pump will be hear in the morning. All I can say is these thing are a PITA to deal with. We did the bed lift idea and man that's a PITA too. All the rusted bolts in the bed. All the stuck and hung up connectors on the tail lights. As for installing it does make it easy being the tank it full of fuel better than pumping the tank out.

Uh Oh?! Did you mess with the voltage setting of the APPS sensor? If so it will cause issues. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment

If need be you could unhook the cable for temporary time so you can drive. Remember the shift pattern will be goofy without it.

Actually I know the reason on that it was a BoD decision to limit non-donating member to the tech topics. So once your donation lapsed your account rolled back to normal member and the forum s became off limits.

It should be ZERO after the lift pump cycles. 5 PSI means there is something wrong with your gauge. I would be considering checking your gauge for accuracy. 14-20 PSI is suggest and the lowest you should see is 14 PSI at a WOT stand. 10 PSI is the book minimum but risky...

This picture will look like the tip is touching the bottom of the tank but it not. There is a gap the thickness of a quarter coin between the tip and the tank bottom. As for the tip you'll see I lightly notched the tip with a grinder disc so it can hold suction to the bottom. The fuel in the picture is just a quart. As you can see it still covering the tip but this is the only bit of fuel the AirDog 150 couldn't pick up.

Here is a eye opener for the stock gauge...

How are you checking oil pressure with a external gauge or with the cluster gauge?

Error codes and fuel pressure? Tapping the VP44 with a hammer is not a good sign.

Sound like someone cut the tube too short. Another thing I see is people cutting weird angle cuts on the tip which causes this too. Straight cut and it should be the thickness of a quarter (coin) from the tip to the bottom of the tank on a empty tank. As the tank fills the bottom deflects away from the tip (about 6 pound per gallon).

??? Really digital sounding doesn't sound bad that I can tell. Just super loud exhaust.

Not exactly. Like the 95 I got here starts super easy to start and has the spit and sputter on the top end. Once the system clears the air its gone. Run beautiful the rest of the day. I've got some other bench testing to do for it too.

Typically that a sign of other issues wheel wise when end up with scattered weights. It could have excessive run-out or other issues. Higher the speed more precision is required.

Most likely not. I've seen from the outside what death wobble is. It a balancing problem or shock problem. I've been along side a Dodge on a motorcycle and watched in super close up mode of the axle jumping off the pavement and a tire nearly making contact with the fender as it oscillates in a circular motion. The vehicle has to slow down to nearly like 30-35 MPH before the violent oscillation stops. More that likely the death wobble is going to be a rotational mass that is out of balance typically a tire(s).

Air in the fuel? Hook up a clear line and loop it on the windshield and see if there is any air or foam being generated. I'm fighting that problem now on the 1995 in my yard. Losing prime and rough starting. What I've done is grease the fittings on the AirDog and it made a temporary improvement.

When I've got a disabled 05 Dodge stilling in the yard and its not capable of producing enough rail pressure to making highway speed you might as well buy some tools to diagnose this issue. Funny how working for 2 local shop and doing a delete for a local person has gotten the word out that I work on Dodge Cummins trucks. I've got enough work for this winter right now. Just with one customer I've got 5 different jobs to do. Then with the 05 Dodge his cousin owns a Dodge Cummins as well he want me to do KDP and some other stuff too. So more or less the word of mouth is getting around.