Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Stock Lift Pump / Cummins Campaign Pump There are some serious design flaws in the stock fuel system. The stock lift pump or the Cummins Campaign pumps are both unable to supply enough fuel volume for a hungry Bosch VP44 injection pump. Part of the problem is the stock lift pump is only good for 35 GPH flow rate. However, even Bosch states that the Bosch VP44 injection pump needs at lets 70% of the fuel return to the fuel tank which is used for cooling and lubing the Bosch VP44 injection pump. So how much fuel does the Bosch VP44 injection pump consume at a WOT run? For a stock truck, you could see as high as 18-20 GPH. Now let's do some simple math. 35 GPH - 20 GPH = 15 GPH... Then 15 GPH / 35 GPH = 42% being return to the tank roughly. This is one point of failure with stock lift pumps. This last picture shows the plastic hub that normally starts to slip or breaks this is why I tell people it doesn't matter if the pump makes noise because the motor might be turning, but the pump rotor is no longer spinning. Now the other failure like this is the plastic will start to slip and pressure falls as friction builds up the plastic will melt and bond again, and the pressure rises once more. This what caused the pump above to fail was slippage of the rotor. As for the pressure regulator, I don't have a picture of this, but if you look inside the ports of the lift pump sometimes you can see the spring and check ball (BB) inside one of the ports. This body of the pump is nothing more than pot metal (cast aluminium) which the check ball rattles against the seat of the aluminium until the check ball is leaking pressure back around itself so the pump goes into constant recirculation. The Cummins Campaign Pump is a redesigned lift pump for Cummins’ engines. It was originally designed for the Buses. The campaign pump is identical to the Dodge OEM pump, which is supplied at manufacture, yet is much cheaper in price! Unfortunately, the Campaign pump is no longer available. The ones that are attainable are very expensive; due to demand, but the part number is 4090046 if you want to take your chances. Lift Pump FAQ's Q: What is the voltage to the lift supposed to be? A: Lift pump should have a constant 12 Volt supplied to it while the engine is running. During cranking the lift pump voltage is modulated 50% duty cycle to reduce starting pressure. Q: What's a stock lift pump pressure supposed to be? A: Normally, a good lift pump should be about 14-15 at idle and about 11-12 PSI at wide open throttle at 65 MPH. Q: What is the lowest lift pump fuel pressure allowed? A: No lower than 10 PSI as stated by Dodge and Cummins both. Below this pressure, Bosch VP44 injection pump damage will result. Q: How much volume does a stock lift pump provide? A: Approximately, 35 GPH Q: Is the fuel pump relay in the power distribution center the relay for the lift pump? A: No. This relay is the power supply relay for the Bosch VP44 injection pump. The lift pump has no relays and is directly controlled by the ECM. Q: How long will a stock lift pump last? A: I've seen a little at 10,000 miles, and some have reported as far 100,000 miles. However, at any rate, I would still have a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the lift pump health.- 1 review
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I really doubt it will. I've only heard of rare cases of it it continuing but typically there is other electrical problems or modifications causing it. Like poorly install "Lockup Switches" or electrical issues inside the transmission like broken wires or bad solenoids.
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Did you unhook both the field lead and the BATT leads?
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@01cummins4ever Summer time temperatures reaching 117*F and winter time temperatures down to -25*F. Nope... Not a controlled environment. Mostly I kept my truck out of the direct sunlight as much as possible. Always used a sun visor on the windshield, kept the two windows rolled down about 2 inches so cab temperatures never got higher than needed. Like if I park outside I park in the shade of the trees in the yard. Weird but true I used armor-all for many years on this dash. I can tell you it will not cause it to crack but it sure does attract dust and dirt. Wasn't till recently I gave up using it that I noticed the first small crack open up on the driver side right near the defroster vent. I'm wanting to move over to dash rug more so now. As for my dash bezel I broke a chunk out of it from having the GPS cord sneaking out right there and the cord was enough to break the chunk out with all the dash vibrations. @The_Hammer What year of truck do you have? You have the old school head light switch and newer door panels? 98.5 truck? I love the way your door panel came out. What did you use to glue the carpet down? Did you paint the panel too?
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Well the ABS module is boxed up and on its way in 2 Day Priority Mail flat rate box. Now I can tell you that deleting the ABS unit is not possible. You lose ABS of course, speedometer, odometer, any kind of trip computer is dead including ScanGauge II. Cruise control is dead. High Idle will not cancel from movement now. So you can launch in any gear in a manual transmission and high idle will drag you around. Another thing found is grid heaters do not cancel because f there is no speed signal. So you grid heater keep cycling while you drive. All I can say is I still have high hopes that Module Master will correct this issue and get the ABS module back to me soon. I've got to admit I've learn quite a bit about ABS modules in this short amount of time.
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I've got 2 well used trucks that could both have a bit of attention to the interior. Like the 02 has its first dash crack on the passenger side very small at this point. The 96 need attention to plastic parts that are broken or damaged over the years. the 96 dash is in excellent condition yet. Both trucks need the carpet yanked out and power washed. Trust me that really brightens up the carpet and looks good afterwards. All the plastic panels take some Simple Green and scrub brush. So I'm going to follow this thread because MoparMom and myself have decided to keep the 1996 Dodge and restore it a bit that include a paint job this year. I'll be doing the paint and body work.
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Unhook the alternator take another test drive. APPS sensors don't create lock & unlock issues. To verify the APPS sensor hook up a live data tool and watch the TPS signal. If it not changing during the lock & unlock issues then back to the alternator unhook it. If the problem goes away the alternator failed.
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Pre grid heating is cancelled. Now post grid heating continues. That is normal.
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This is one reason I don't like levelling kits on a Dodge. As soon as you put anything in the bed heavy it looks like a Ford truck squatting. As for the compressor I LIKE that... I would love to have a good compressor like that in my shop.
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2,800 feet. Bill was close. Pollock, ID is 2,500 feet. http://speisa.com/modules/articles/index.php/item.2256/norwegians-and-cold-weather.html
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No. Possibly. I've heard that mostly its they check for a special oil tracer. Because using ATF is red too. Yes, there is lot of people still using ATF in there fuel. To be safe I would ask a DOT officer.
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Fuel Injector Operation High-pressure fuel is supplied from the Bosch VP44 injection pump, through a high-pressure fuel line, through a steel connector, and into the fuel injector. When fuel pressure rises to approximately 31,026 kPa (4,500 psi), the needle valve spring tension is overcome. The needle valve rises and fuel flows through the spray holes in the injector nozzle tip into the combustion chamber. The pressure required to lift the needle valve is the nozzle opening pressure. This is sometimes referred to as the “pop” pressure setting. Each fuel injector is connected to each high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are sealed to the high-pressure fuel lines with fittings. The ferrule on the end of the high-pressure fuel line pushes against the steel connector when the fuel line fitting is torqued into the cylinder head. This torquing force provides a sealing pressure between both the fuel line to the connector and the fuel connector-to-fuel injector. The fitting torque is very critical. If the fitting is under-torqued, the mating surfaces will not seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This leak will be inside the cylinder head and will not be visible. The result will be a possible fuel injector miss-fire and low power. The fuel injectors use hole-type nozzles. High-pressure flows into the side of the injector and causes the injector needle to lift and fuel to be injected. The clearances in the nozzle bore are extremely small and any sort of dirt or contaminants will cause the injector to stick. Because of this, it is very important to do a thorough cleaning of any lines before opening up any fuel system component. Always cover or cap any open fuel connections before a fuel system repair is performed. Each fuel injector connector tube contains an edge filter that breaks up small contaminants that enter the injector. The edge filter uses the injectors pulsating high pressure to break up most particles so they are small enough to pass through the injector. The edge filters are not a substitute for proper cleaning and covering of all fuel system components during repair. The bottom of each fuel injector is sealed to the cylinder head with a 1.5mm thick copper shims (gasket). The correct thickness shim must always be re-installed after removing an injector. Fuel pressure in the injector circuit decreases after injection. The injector needle valve is immediately closed by the needle valve spring and fuel flow into the combustion chamber is stopped. Exhaust gasses are prevented from entering the injector nozzle by the needle valve. Fuel Injector Removal The fuel injectors are located in the top of the cylinder head between the intake/exhaust valves. 1. Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate end of cables. Each fuel injector is connected to each high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector tube. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are connected to high-pressure fuel lines with fittings. 2. If injector at #1 or #2 cylinder is being removed, intake manifold air heater assembly must be removed. 3. If injector at #5 cylinder is being removed, remove engine lifting bracket (2 bolts). 4. Thoroughly clean area around injector and injector high-pressure lines before removal. 5. Remove necessary high-pressure fuel lines. (Refer to - Injection Lines). Do not bend any high-pressure fuel line to gain access to the fuel injector. Cover or cap any open fuel connections. 6. Remove valve cover. Mopar's Notes Most of us will be doing full injector upgrades or replacements. So I know the service manual talks as if replacing 1 or 2 injectors. I highly suggest you remove every as pictured below. APPS Sensor - Removal. Leave the throttle cable attached and lay on the PDC box. Remove the intake and grid heaters by pulling the 4 bolts and the band clamp. Lay the intake and grid heater aside on the PDC box. Remove the valve cover. Remove the injection lines 7. Thread Special Tool 8324 (Fuel Injector Connector Tube Remover) onto the end of injector connector tube. Mopar's Notes You can use a small flat blade screwdriver. Just hook one of the threads on the connector tube and lightly pry out. WARNING! Be aware and not scratch the mating surface of where the tube and high-pressure line and the connector tube meet if you do there will be a fuel leak. 8. Pull injector connector tube from the cylinder head. The injector connector tube must be removed before attempting to remove fuel injector or serious damage to fuel injector and tube will result. 9. Remove and discard old o-ring from injector connector tube. 10. Remove fuel injector hold down clamp bolt at the front end of the clamp. Do not loosen or remove special (2 shouldered) bolt at the rear end of the clamp. Remove injector clamp by sliding it from shoulders on rear clamp bolt. 11. Thread rod from Special Tool number 8318 (Fuel Injector Remover) into the top of the fuel injector. Mopar's Notes Take one of your short intake bolts and thread it into the head of the injector. 12. Tighten nut on 8318 tool to pull (remove) fuel injector from the cylinder head. Mopar's Notes Use a screwdriver and pry the injector straight up carefully. 13. Remove and discard old o-ring from the fuel injector. 14. Remove and discard copper sealing washer (shim) from the bottom of the injector. If copper sealing washer has remained in the cylinder head, it must be removed. Fuel Injector Installation The fuel injectors are located in the top of the cylinder head between the intake/exhaust valves. 1. Inspect fuel injector. a. If necessary, perform a pressure test of the injector. b. Look for burrs on injector inlet. c. Check nozzle holes for hole erosion or plugging. d. Inspect end of the nozzle for burrs or rough machine marks. e. Look for cracks at the nozzle end. f. Check nozzle color for signs of overheating. Overheating will cause the nozzle to turn a dark yellow/ tan or blue (depending on overheating temperature). g. If any of these conditions occur, replace the injector. 2. Thoroughly clean fuel injector cylinder head bore with special Cummins wire brush tool or equivalent. Blow out bore hole with compressed air. 3. The bottom of the fuel injector is sealed to cylinder head bore with a copper sealing washer (shim) of a certain thickness. A new shim with correct thickness must always be re-installed after removing injector. Measure thickness of injector shim. Shim Thickness: 1.5 mm (.060”) 4. Install new shim (washer) to the bottom of the injector. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the washer. This will keep washer in place during installation. 5. Install new o-ring to fuel injector. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to o-ring. 6. Note fuel inlet hole on the side of the fuel injector. This hole must be positioned towards injector connector tube. Position injector into cylinder head bore being extremely careful not to allow injector tip to touch sides of the bore. Press fuel injector into cylinder head with finger pressure only. Do not use any tools to press fuel injector into position. Damage to machined surfaces may result. 7. Position fuel injector hold down clamp into shouldered bolt while aligning slot in the top of the injector into the groove in the bottom of the clamp. Tighten opposite clamp bolt to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) torque. 8. Install new o-ring to fuel injector connector tube. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to o-ring. 9. Press injector connector tube into cylinder head with finger pressure only. Do not use any tools to press tube into position. Damage to machined surfaces may result. 10. Connect high-pressure fuel lines. Refer to High-Pressure Fuel Lines Removal/Installation. The fuel line fitting torque is very critical. If the fitting is under-torqued, the mating surfaces will not seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This leak will be inside cylinder head and will not be visible resulting in a possible fuel injector miss and low power. (28 ft. lbs.) 11. Install valve cover. 12. (If necessary) install intake manifold air heater assembly. Refer to Intake Manifold Air Heater Removal/Installation. 13. (If necessary) install engine lifting bracket. Tighten 2 bolts to 77 N·m (57 ft. lbs.) torque. 14. Connect negative battery cables to both batteries. 15. Bleed air from high-pressure lines. Refer to Reprime fuel system procedure.
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I took a pair of needle nose pilers and just flatten that tab so I could mount it to a flat surface. Simple solution. It should take about 2-3 minutes set in this mode to enable 6 CYL mode once it reaches 1,200 RPM's then it will flip over to 3 CYL mode. You are required to have coolant temps BELOW 140*F before you can enable 3 CYL mode. 6 CYL mode can be enabled at any time being it fools both coolant tenp and intake air temp.
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Mopar1973Man.Com NEWS! Welcome to Mopar1973Man.Com Articles This web site is a personal collection of notes, information, ideas, and designs to aid you with repairs, maintenance, Bomb's, Mod's for your Mopar, Dodge, or Cummins Product. This site is organized as a drill down type menu to the left. Most of the goodies are listed in the tips and tricks. So grab yourself a cup of your favorite beverage and sit down and start reading and learning about your vehicle. Mopar1973Man Forum Please feel free to visit the Mopar1973Man forum with any questions/comments to any of the articles or anything having to do with you Cummins powered Dodge truck. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/ If you are intertested in Writing an Article Please Visit Writing a www.Mopar1973Man.com Article
Bosch Certified VP44 Injection Pump Rebuilders This write-up is to list out all Bosch Certified injection pump builders who have an on-site Bosch 815 injection pump stand for testing and calibration Bosch VP44 injection pumps found on the Cummins Turbo Diesel. This is to educate Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel owners who there is only a handful of companies have the proper tooling for rebuilding Bosch VP44 injection pumps. This is not to steer you away from different vendors or dealers but to educate you to the fact, there is actually very few VP44 shops that do in-house rebuilding and calibration of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm hoping with this article it will enlighten you enough to ask questions of the source of the Bosch VP44 injection pump, warranties, etc. This means there are a lot of vendors / dealers out there that are not tooled up for handling Bosch VP44 Injection pump rebuilding nor calibration. Now why there are so few shops that have a Bosch 815 test bench is because of the price, The Bosch 815 test stand are about $225,000.00 to purchase the Bosch 815 test stand. The Bosch License to do VP44 pump remanufacturing work is close to 1 million dollars from what I've been told by one injection shop I spoke to. This was the reason why most injection shop does not handle VP44 remanufacturing because of the pure price you must pay to become a Bosch Certified Rebuilder. Midwest Fuel injection Industrial Injection O-F-I (Oregon Fuel Injection) Jasper Engines Diesel Fuel Injection Rebuild Center Central Motive Power ProDiesel Diesel Forward (Diesel Injection Service) Dixie Diesel Here are a few videos of the Bosch 815 test stand used for calibrating the Bosch VP44 injection pump and the Bosch CP3 injection pumps. This goes to show that all pumps must meet a certain level of the test bench before being sold. If you happen to obtain information of additional certified Bosch Injection Shops with an in-house Bosch 815 test bench, please notify me I'll append the company name to the listing. Added - Central Motive Power - 03/06/13 From: Cordell walker Hey Mike, I'd just like to let you know that Central Motive Power in Denver/Commerce City Colorado is a Bosch-certified pump shop. I've seen their 6 test benches with my own eyes as well as all their other Bosch equipment for injectors and have watched them rebuild a vp44. -Dustin Added - ProDiesel - 03/09/14 From: Clunk @ CumminsForum These guys too, I've been inside their facility, saw the big Bosch test rig too. Added - Diesel Forward - 11/08/14 From: SlightlyHazy @ CumminsForum Hi there. I tried to send you a message quite a while ago about there being an 815 VP44 test bench local to me and was just reminded on a separate post that brought up your list but the company wasn't listed. Anyhow diesel forward in Windsor has a bench in house. They are also known by diesel injection service. Added - Dixie Diesel - 10/03/15 From: Drinkin Diesel @ Cummins Forum Sure can..here is the link to their website.... http://www.dixiediesel.com Phone number: 1 888 381 1647 P.O. Box 336 200 East 16th Street Columbia, TN 38401 Great guys to deal with.. except he had told me he has had good luck running the vp44 H.O. with 300hp injectors...that kinda worried me a bit..I declined his offer, due to trans being stock..
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Fuel Gauge Replacement Sender For all of you that are running around with a broken fuel gauge that reads incorrect level than actual fuel level, there is a replacement sender that you can get from the Dodge Dealer. Part Number: 4897669AB (For 2000-2002 Dodge Ram) Part number # 4897669AC (Updated fuel sender part number - Oct, 2020 @Towrigdually) Approximate Cost: $68.45 I was warned by the Dodge Dealer than the actually part number may vary and you should contact a local Dodge Dealer and provide them with the VIN number so to get the proper part for your application. As for requiring an In-Tank Lift pump you do not and don't let them sell you one either its' not required- 1 review
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Fuel Gauge Replacement Sender For all of you that are running around with a broken fuel gauge that reads incorrect level than actual fuel level, there is a replacement sender that you can get from the Dodge Dealer. Part Number: 4897669AB (For 2000-2002 Dodge Ram) Part number # 4897669AC (Updated fuel sender part number - Oct, 2020 @Towrigdually) Approximate Cost: $68.45 I was warned by the Dodge Dealer than the actually part number may vary and you should contact a local Dodge Dealer and provide them with the VIN number so to get the proper part for your application. As for requiring an In-Tank Lift pump you do not and don't let them sell you one either its' not required View full Cummins article
If you roll the switch to slowly you'll end up with 3 CYL mode. Speaking for my own switch I've not had any issues in toggle MPG -> 6 CYL or back without a issue. Just have to remember to select in a snap speed.
Not a total loss. I'm now one of the few people in the area with a ABS/SRS tool and can now diagnose other vehicles. Yeah it sucks I can't diagnose mine now. At least business wise I'll be able to cover all other vehicles I service and work on.
Well I'm going to hit a few friends I know and see what I can do with it.
Crap! I just got the Scan Tool to find out there is nothing that can Scan Dodge Ram 98.5 to 2002 ABS codes other than DRBIII tool. I got the Scan Tool and put the batteries into it. Walked out to the shop plugged in. No DTC codes. Nothing new. Selected Enhanced Codes. Selected Chrysler. Then selected ABS. Not Supported! What!? So I called Innova to find out what the deal is. On Dodge Rams if it was a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 yes its supported. But for mine on the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 is not supported. (Sigh). So I'm back to pulling it off and sending back the module to Module Masters.
Depends on your operating pyrometer temperature. If you not reaching above 1000*F for extended periods you most likely going to have issues in town. All I can say is to drive it and see if it complains about regen-ing to much. I would change it out and hold on to the old thermostat as a fall back.
1 whole inch. If the weather warms up at all today it will be gone. It's 34*F right now so it won't take much and it will be gone. Still not enough to plough driveways. Ratz...
Now that helps with not driving off. It will become painfully obvious that the thief has no idea of your kill switch. The switch must be hidden in such a fashion that you not obvious to flipping the switch. Even people in the cab shouldn't know what your reaching for. The best I've got is accessing the fuel pump relay of the PDC tap the ground lead and run it into the cab. This way its only 1 wire. GROUNDED it starts and runs UNGROUNDED the P1689 code is set and the engine doesn't start. In larger cities there is report of tow trucks just picking up your truck and hauling it off. It looks like a Repo guy coming to get you truck but its only a thief coming to steal your truck.
