Mopar1973Man

Again you can't expect a stock OE box to handle the leverage load of 44" tires. Just foolish. For something like this YES! You need to drop away from the Dodge Stock box and move up to something stronger. Now a Common Joe should not have to upgrade to Redhead or other gear boxes with a Pavement Queen truck and stockish sized tires. Once you start levelling, lifting, over-sizing tires all bets are off on a stock gear box. Then again there is a different between a Working Man's Rig and Weekend Warrior Rig. Two different applications with two different needs.

Thing is when some can show me a high priced parts it better be lasting longer than what I'm getting. Much Longer. Other than that the cost vs. gain is worthless. Or... You really screwed up the geometry of the truck and wasting good money trying to solve a geometry issue.

Wonderful news. (MoparMom and Module Master Staff) I had a nice little chat with the crew at Module Master in Moscow, ID. I did find out that Module Master does quite a bit. ABS modules, ECM of our Cummins, some of the Mopar modules are seal with the gelled sealant. Instrument clusters etc. So it worth the effort to give them a call and find out if they can fix your module. As for my ABS unit it will be repaired in 2 days for $130 buck and have the 5 year warranty. I will be using them as a module repair source from here on out. Very professional crew!

Geez.. You don't drive much. Typically in a year I cover 30-35k miles on average.

Like us we wanted a circle driveway but the septic tank are in the way now. Previously the original septic tank where in the driveway but 3.5 foot down. Now they off the edge of the driveway with risers and lids within 2 foot of the surface for digging up.

Basically in a nutshell failure rate of the front parts are based on what you modify and how much. Like folks with lift kits, levelling kits, oversized tires etc. Tend to have a higher failure rate. It all about how you change the geometry of the front axle and suspension and how that change impacts the various suspension and axle parts. Like myself I've lighten up my rotational mass went down 1 tire size (265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16) and one wheel size (16x7.5 to 16x7.0). That just about killed off every bit of the front end issues. Then use a calculated air pressure in the tires.

Some of us just don't have deep pockets for toyz like this.

Might be half your issues. If the wire tap is weak and not seeing a good 12V connection then your power will become weakened as well. I going to assume you use a scotch-loc connector for a wire tap too? Those are known for cutting through the wire and leaving barely any thing connected. Then with a bit of water or road salt the connection gets worse. As for cutting out you might want to verify your AC noise from the alternator. If its excessive it could create weird problems. Double check the master ground on the passenger side battery as well. The ground is the one attached to the battery tray.

Yea. That what you need to do. Much better than all these wild upgrades, changing boxes, braces, etc. Funny I remember the number of BB's. The last rebuild I've done was on a 1970 Ford F250 pickup. I reman'ed a friends gearbox and fixed his issues of hard steering and leaks. Goes to show this old style technology still works today just fine. What I like about out steering boxes is that they are adjustable and seal kits are cheap and plentiful. Now if you upgrade away from the OE box now you lose the bonuses.

Most of the wood I get is standing dead and dry when I cut it down. Just like AH64ID example I've been wood out of the Poe Cabin Fire for years now. Most of wood is still standing and dry. Just lightly scorched. Nothing like what you are using in hardwood which hold water for long period. I cut down trees before and bucked them up and had them start popping and cracking by the time I get home. Softwoods season quickly. Doesn't get any drier than this... As for this fire year I've purchase from a log yard in New Meadows, ID and brought them back early in the year to season out in the yard. As for what in the shed is good and dry. My standard stove lighting method works just find. Now any wood I split from this point on will NOT be loaded into the shed because now this damp or moist wood that will need a summer to cure out. I'll most likely stack it up in the yard and cover it for now. Here try this on for size load your stove with normal size firewood, no kindling. Then light your weed burner rest it on the edge of the stove. Now fill the tea kettle with water. The fire will be lit in the time the tea kettle is filled. remember this in not kindling. Now leave the air vents wide open for exactly 10 minutes and the pyrometer with be off the scale. The stack is now clean to the top and now I adjust the air shutters to just a hair past a 1/2 turn a piece which brings me back to about 600*F pyrometer. 5 minutes just went by and blower just kicked on. If my wood wasn't seasoned you couldn't do this. Wet fire wood burns extremely cold, smoky, hard starting, etc. Even with kindling... Or in my case a weed burner.

When you take it apart what will happen is the inner screw will most likely come out and 22 or so BB's will come out inside the rack. As for reassembly. I typically I set up so the screw is inside the rack and one at a time feed the BB's inside. Be careful with moving the screw shaft that if you move it to far the BB's unscrew into the inside of the rack. The last 2-4 will be left laying in the half tube. Then carefully place the other half of the tube on and put the clamp back on.

Even with all my offroad usage on my truck and 255k miles on the odometer I'm still only changed just one trackbar and one set of ball joints. Still running OE tie rod ends. Personally if the truck is stock and no oversized tires then there is no real need for too much upgrading. I would suggest stay away from Moog its not like it once was. I would just pick up NAPA ball joints and track bar but I would look towards the premium line. Some are getting Spicer Ball joints which was the factory ball joints.

Gotta watch this one!

Like every time I say my prayer I'm always quick about Thanking the Good Lord for all the wonderful gives and abilities he's granted me. Then if there is any thing else I want to ask for blessing on I ask only after I've Thanked him first.

We had a Blaze King stove and it didn't last very long. The stupid EPA designed stove burn poorly and the weird air ducting and cat's make it a mess of a stove. After a few year the air duct get deformed from the constant heating cycles and eventually start to crack and leak air in different places. Like ours was leaking more into the exhaust of the chimney than into the fire box so the fire would go out on its own. Our lasted about 4-5 years and end up throwing it out for these two "Stove That Jack Built" and never had any other issues. These two stoves are built with heavy plate steel and no glass door so there is complete fire safety. I can crank down both air shutters and kill a fire in mere minutes. Very air tight box. Compared to the old Blaze king it had a cheap sheet metal shutter for air control and even on the lowest setting it would run quite hot. I suggest you don't look for a stove with beauty in mind but a good heavy steel cabinet and steel door. If there is any steel metal or light gauge metal anywhere in the stove you can bet it will fail in short amount of time.

Rebuilding the alternator is extremely easy. It just the diode pack is expensive from LarryB. http://www.fostertruck.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=alternator He supplies the bearings, pulley, diodes and the brush pack. You'll need at least a two jaw bearing puller. As for replacing diodes and brushes that simple as pie. Can be done in minutes. Just need a few sockets and a phillips screwdriver to get that far. I was planning on going that way but when I found the bearing holder in the rear half of the case was wallowed out and the bearing was fine but the shaft moved about 1/16 of a inch I knew at that point I had to replace mine again. More than likely the shaft movement and the wore brushes in mine where the cause of the AC noise issues. As for the ABS module I called Module Masters in Moscow, ID and they can rebuild my ABS module in 2 days for $130 total cost. On top they give a 5 YEAR warranty. I'm going to talk to a shop tech tomorrow when I hand deliver my ABS unit. I want to find out if we can get ECM's and PCM's done. Also I can tell you that if you unplug and remove the ABS module you can still drive the truck with normal brakes. There is no speedometer function at all. So you'll need a GPS to tell road speed. As for cruise control that is dead too because no speed signal. Also the BRAKE light is out and the ABS remains lit up. Which is odd.

Lot to be said about our current times. Like MoparMom and I both see and sense it as well. I think mostly because we are not attached to any mainstream media like TV and Movies so we tend to think on our own. 12 years without TV kind of makes you think on your own. There seems to be a big push by everyone to work harder and longer because of financial instability everyone is looking at. At the same time prices around us continue to climb higher. Generally speaking people are still continuing to spend at even high rates than they did 20 years ago. What is so great is where I live and how I live gives me the ability to shut out the world as the mainstream media tells it. I can choose to live the simple life that the Good Lord has provided me or I can open that porthole and sample some world around me be it in jobs, travel to the larger cities like Boise, or just hoping on the Internet surfing. That's one of the things I crave right now is the outdoors. Just too darn cold...

Stainless Diesel went over 1,000 HP on a VP44 pump.

Don't go there. I've still got my old Atari 800 in the shop packed away. Yes, I even kept that old beast and all my 5.25 floppies for it too. I like dragging that beast out once in awhile and play old old Atari Games.

Ummm... If you guys didn't work me so hard geez I might get time to do thing like this... Me78569 -> <- Mopar1973Man

Yea... Exactly correct.

I normally preload the bearing and back off one face of the nut. As for repacking I always washed the bearings in gasoline and then inspect them for damaged rollers, cages, etc. Then check the races as well. If anything is damaged I replace a full kit in hub. Inner and outer bearing.

In a nutshell that's about it. Now if you want to go farther there is people now hacking the CANBus signal and learning how to control things in the vehicle like stereo, headlight and other things with a simple cellphone or tablet. There is several other videos other like this where people create all kinds of features with a simple OBDII dongle.

Finally... I yanked out the old 1st Generation switch set... Man talk about a historic part. This is where the entire high idle started from. I'll most likely hold on to this forever. Neat to look back on history and see where we came from to where we are going. ECT Fooler (up fooled - down normal) IAT Fooler (up fooled - down normal) MPG (up) / High Idle (down) 3/6 Cylinder mode (3 cylinder up and 6 cylinder down) Now install the new Mopar1973Man High Idle Kit... I will admit so much nicer to have that plug at the switch. One wire basically to stuff through the firewall and easy to do. Takes a few minutes to install. It actually took me more time to pull the old switch out. So much nicer to have 1 knob only 4 positions.

Here is the forum that supports the OBDLink products. https://www.scantool.net/forum/