Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Mopar1973Man

Owner
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. No. Possibly. I've heard that mostly its they check for a special oil tracer. Because using ATF is red too. Yes, there is lot of people still using ATF in there fuel. To be safe I would ask a DOT officer.
  2. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Fuel
    Fuel Injector Operation High-pressure fuel is supplied from the Bosch VP44 injection pump, through a high-pressure fuel line, through a steel connector, and into the fuel injector. When fuel pressure rises to approximately 31,026 kPa (4,500 psi), the needle valve spring tension is overcome. The needle valve rises and fuel flows through the spray holes in the injector nozzle tip into the combustion chamber. The pressure required to lift the needle valve is the nozzle opening pressure. This is sometimes referred to as the “pop” pressure setting. Each fuel injector is connected to each high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are sealed to the high-pressure fuel lines with fittings. The ferrule on the end of the high-pressure fuel line pushes against the steel connector when the fuel line fitting is torqued into the cylinder head. This torquing force provides a sealing pressure between both the fuel line to the connector and the fuel connector-to-fuel injector. The fitting torque is very critical. If the fitting is under-torqued, the mating surfaces will not seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This leak will be inside the cylinder head and will not be visible. The result will be a possible fuel injector miss-fire and low power. The fuel injectors use hole-type nozzles. High-pressure flows into the side of the injector and causes the injector needle to lift and fuel to be injected. The clearances in the nozzle bore are extremely small and any sort of dirt or contaminants will cause the injector to stick. Because of this, it is very important to do a thorough cleaning of any lines before opening up any fuel system component. Always cover or cap any open fuel connections before a fuel system repair is performed. Each fuel injector connector tube contains an edge filter that breaks up small contaminants that enter the injector. The edge filter uses the injectors pulsating high pressure to break up most particles so they are small enough to pass through the injector. The edge filters are not a substitute for proper cleaning and covering of all fuel system components during repair. The bottom of each fuel injector is sealed to the cylinder head with a 1.5mm thick copper shims (gasket). The correct thickness shim must always be re-installed after removing an injector. Fuel pressure in the injector circuit decreases after injection. The injector needle valve is immediately closed by the needle valve spring and fuel flow into the combustion chamber is stopped. Exhaust gasses are prevented from entering the injector nozzle by the needle valve. Fuel Injector Removal The fuel injectors are located in the top of the cylinder head between the intake/exhaust valves. 1. Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate end of cables. Each fuel injector is connected to each high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector tube. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are connected to high-pressure fuel lines with fittings. 2. If injector at #1 or #2 cylinder is being removed, intake manifold air heater assembly must be removed. 3. If injector at #5 cylinder is being removed, remove engine lifting bracket (2 bolts). 4. Thoroughly clean area around injector and injector high-pressure lines before removal. 5. Remove necessary high-pressure fuel lines. (Refer to - Injection Lines). Do not bend any high-pressure fuel line to gain access to the fuel injector. Cover or cap any open fuel connections. 6. Remove valve cover. Mopar's Notes Most of us will be doing full injector upgrades or replacements. So I know the service manual talks as if replacing 1 or 2 injectors. I highly suggest you remove every as pictured below. APPS Sensor - Removal. Leave the throttle cable attached and lay on the PDC box. Remove the intake and grid heaters by pulling the 4 bolts and the band clamp. Lay the intake and grid heater aside on the PDC box. Remove the valve cover. Remove the injection lines 7. Thread Special Tool 8324 (Fuel Injector Connector Tube Remover) onto the end of injector connector tube. Mopar's Notes You can use a small flat blade screwdriver. Just hook one of the threads on the connector tube and lightly pry out. WARNING! Be aware and not scratch the mating surface of where the tube and high-pressure line and the connector tube meet if you do there will be a fuel leak. 8. Pull injector connector tube from the cylinder head. The injector connector tube must be removed before attempting to remove fuel injector or serious damage to fuel injector and tube will result. 9. Remove and discard old o-ring from injector connector tube. 10. Remove fuel injector hold down clamp bolt at the front end of the clamp. Do not loosen or remove special (2 shouldered) bolt at the rear end of the clamp. Remove injector clamp by sliding it from shoulders on rear clamp bolt. 11. Thread rod from Special Tool number 8318 (Fuel Injector Remover) into the top of the fuel injector. Mopar's Notes Take one of your short intake bolts and thread it into the head of the injector. 12. Tighten nut on 8318 tool to pull (remove) fuel injector from the cylinder head. Mopar's Notes Use a screwdriver and pry the injector straight up carefully. 13. Remove and discard old o-ring from the fuel injector. 14. Remove and discard copper sealing washer (shim) from the bottom of the injector. If copper sealing washer has remained in the cylinder head, it must be removed. Fuel Injector Installation The fuel injectors are located in the top of the cylinder head between the intake/exhaust valves. 1. Inspect fuel injector. a. If necessary, perform a pressure test of the injector. b. Look for burrs on injector inlet. c. Check nozzle holes for hole erosion or plugging. d. Inspect end of the nozzle for burrs or rough machine marks. e. Look for cracks at the nozzle end. f. Check nozzle color for signs of overheating. Overheating will cause the nozzle to turn a dark yellow/ tan or blue (depending on overheating temperature). g. If any of these conditions occur, replace the injector. 2. Thoroughly clean fuel injector cylinder head bore with special Cummins wire brush tool or equivalent. Blow out bore hole with compressed air. 3. The bottom of the fuel injector is sealed to cylinder head bore with a copper sealing washer (shim) of a certain thickness. A new shim with correct thickness must always be re-installed after removing injector. Measure thickness of injector shim. Shim Thickness: 1.5 mm (.060”) 4. Install new shim (washer) to the bottom of the injector. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the washer. This will keep washer in place during installation. 5. Install new o-ring to fuel injector. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to o-ring. 6. Note fuel inlet hole on the side of the fuel injector. This hole must be positioned towards injector connector tube. Position injector into cylinder head bore being extremely careful not to allow injector tip to touch sides of the bore. Press fuel injector into cylinder head with finger pressure only. Do not use any tools to press fuel injector into position. Damage to machined surfaces may result. 7. Position fuel injector hold down clamp into shouldered bolt while aligning slot in the top of the injector into the groove in the bottom of the clamp. Tighten opposite clamp bolt to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) torque. 8. Install new o-ring to fuel injector connector tube. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to o-ring. 9. Press injector connector tube into cylinder head with finger pressure only. Do not use any tools to press tube into position. Damage to machined surfaces may result. 10. Connect high-pressure fuel lines. Refer to High-Pressure Fuel Lines Removal/Installation. The fuel line fitting torque is very critical. If the fitting is under-torqued, the mating surfaces will not seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This leak will be inside cylinder head and will not be visible resulting in a possible fuel injector miss and low power. (28 ft. lbs.) 11. Install valve cover. 12. (If necessary) install intake manifold air heater assembly. Refer to Intake Manifold Air Heater Removal/Installation. 13. (If necessary) install engine lifting bracket. Tighten 2 bolts to 77 N·m (57 ft. lbs.) torque. 14. Connect negative battery cables to both batteries. 15. Bleed air from high-pressure lines. Refer to Reprime fuel system procedure.
  3. I took a pair of needle nose pilers and just flatten that tab so I could mount it to a flat surface. Simple solution. It should take about 2-3 minutes set in this mode to enable 6 CYL mode once it reaches 1,200 RPM's then it will flip over to 3 CYL mode. You are required to have coolant temps BELOW 140*F before you can enable 3 CYL mode. 6 CYL mode can be enabled at any time being it fools both coolant tenp and intake air temp.
  4. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Home
    Mopar1973Man.Com NEWS! Welcome to Mopar1973Man.Com Articles This web site is a personal collection of notes, information, ideas, and designs to aid you with repairs, maintenance, Bomb's, Mod's for your Mopar, Dodge, or Cummins Product. This site is organized as a drill down type menu to the left. Most of the goodies are listed in the tips and tricks. So grab yourself a cup of your favorite beverage and sit down and start reading and learning about your vehicle. Mopar1973Man Forum Please feel free to visit the Mopar1973Man forum with any questions/comments to any of the articles or anything having to do with you Cummins powered Dodge truck. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/ If you are intertested in Writing an Article Please Visit Writing a www.Mopar1973Man.com Article
  5. Bosch Certified VP44 Injection Pump Rebuilders This write-up is to list out all Bosch Certified injection pump builders who have an on-site Bosch 815 injection pump stand for testing and calibration Bosch VP44 injection pumps found on the Cummins Turbo Diesel. This is to educate Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel owners who there is only a handful of companies have the proper tooling for rebuilding Bosch VP44 injection pumps. This is not to steer you away from different vendors or dealers but to educate you to the fact, there is actually very few VP44 shops that do in-house rebuilding and calibration of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm hoping with this article it will enlighten you enough to ask questions of the source of the Bosch VP44 injection pump, warranties, etc. This means there are a lot of vendors / dealers out there that are not tooled up for handling Bosch VP44 Injection pump rebuilding nor calibration. Now why there are so few shops that have a Bosch 815 test bench is because of the price, The Bosch 815 test stand are about $225,000.00 to purchase the Bosch 815 test stand. The Bosch License to do VP44 pump remanufacturing work is close to 1 million dollars from what I've been told by one injection shop I spoke to. This was the reason why most injection shop does not handle VP44 remanufacturing because of the pure price you must pay to become a Bosch Certified Rebuilder. Midwest Fuel injection Industrial Injection O-F-I (Oregon Fuel Injection) Jasper Engines Diesel Fuel Injection Rebuild Center Central Motive Power ProDiesel Diesel Forward (Diesel Injection Service) Dixie Diesel Here are a few videos of the Bosch 815 test stand used for calibrating the Bosch VP44 injection pump and the Bosch CP3 injection pumps. This goes to show that all pumps must meet a certain level of the test bench before being sold. If you happen to obtain information of additional certified Bosch Injection Shops with an in-house Bosch 815 test bench, please notify me I'll append the company name to the listing. Added - Central Motive Power - 03/06/13 From: Cordell walker Hey Mike, I'd just like to let you know that Central Motive Power in Denver/Commerce City Colorado is a Bosch-certified pump shop. I've seen their 6 test benches with my own eyes as well as all their other Bosch equipment for injectors and have watched them rebuild a vp44. -Dustin Added - ProDiesel - 03/09/14 From: Clunk @ CumminsForum These guys too, I've been inside their facility, saw the big Bosch test rig too. Added - Diesel Forward - 11/08/14 From: SlightlyHazy @ CumminsForum Hi there. I tried to send you a message quite a while ago about there being an 815 VP44 test bench local to me and was just reminded on a separate post that brought up your list but the company wasn't listed. Anyhow diesel forward in Windsor has a bench in house. They are also known by diesel injection service. Added - Dixie Diesel - 10/03/15 From: Drinkin Diesel @ Cummins Forum Sure can..here is the link to their website.... http://www.dixiediesel.com Phone number: 1 888 381 1647 P.O. Box 336 200 East 16th Street Columbia, TN 38401 Great guys to deal with.. except he had told me he has had good luck running the vp44 H.O. with 300hp injectors...that kinda worried me a bit..I declined his offer, due to trans being stock..
  6. Fuel Gauge Replacement Sender For all of you that are running around with a broken fuel gauge that reads incorrect level than actual fuel level, there is a replacement sender that you can get from the Dodge Dealer. Part Number: 4897669AB (For 2000-2002 Dodge Ram) Part number # 4897669AC (Updated fuel sender part number - Oct, 2020 @Towrigdually) Approximate Cost: $68.45 I was warned by the Dodge Dealer than the actually part number may vary and you should contact a local Dodge Dealer and provide them with the VIN number so to get the proper part for your application. As for requiring an In-Tank Lift pump you do not and don't let them sell you one either its' not required View full Cummins article
  7. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Fuel
    Fuel Gauge Replacement Sender For all of you that are running around with a broken fuel gauge that reads incorrect level than actual fuel level, there is a replacement sender that you can get from the Dodge Dealer. Part Number: 4897669AB (For 2000-2002 Dodge Ram) Part number # 4897669AC (Updated fuel sender part number - Oct, 2020 @Towrigdually) Approximate Cost: $68.45 I was warned by the Dodge Dealer than the actually part number may vary and you should contact a local Dodge Dealer and provide them with the VIN number so to get the proper part for your application. As for requiring an In-Tank Lift pump you do not and don't let them sell you one either its' not required
  8. If you roll the switch to slowly you'll end up with 3 CYL mode. Speaking for my own switch I've not had any issues in toggle MPG -> 6 CYL or back without a issue. Just have to remember to select in a snap speed.
  9. Not a total loss. I'm now one of the few people in the area with a ABS/SRS tool and can now diagnose other vehicles. Yeah it sucks I can't diagnose mine now. At least business wise I'll be able to cover all other vehicles I service and work on.
  10. Well I'm going to hit a few friends I know and see what I can do with it.
  11. Crap! I just got the Scan Tool to find out there is nothing that can Scan Dodge Ram 98.5 to 2002 ABS codes other than DRBIII tool. I got the Scan Tool and put the batteries into it. Walked out to the shop plugged in. No DTC codes. Nothing new. Selected Enhanced Codes. Selected Chrysler. Then selected ABS. Not Supported! What!? So I called Innova to find out what the deal is. On Dodge Rams if it was a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 yes its supported. But for mine on the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 is not supported. (Sigh). So I'm back to pulling it off and sending back the module to Module Masters.
  12. Depends on your operating pyrometer temperature. If you not reaching above 1000*F for extended periods you most likely going to have issues in town. All I can say is to drive it and see if it complains about regen-ing to much. I would change it out and hold on to the old thermostat as a fall back.
  13. 1 whole inch. If the weather warms up at all today it will be gone. It's 34*F right now so it won't take much and it will be gone. Still not enough to plough driveways. Ratz...
  14. Now that helps with not driving off. It will become painfully obvious that the thief has no idea of your kill switch. The switch must be hidden in such a fashion that you not obvious to flipping the switch. Even people in the cab shouldn't know what your reaching for. The best I've got is accessing the fuel pump relay of the PDC tap the ground lead and run it into the cab. This way its only 1 wire. GROUNDED it starts and runs UNGROUNDED the P1689 code is set and the engine doesn't start. In larger cities there is report of tow trucks just picking up your truck and hauling it off. It looks like a Repo guy coming to get you truck but its only a thief coming to steal your truck.
  15. Try counting the detents from fully counter clock wise and double check it. From the left to right there is only 4. OFF, MPG, 6 CYL and 3 CYL. If you got a live data tool like a ScanGauge II or similar. OFF - Should show normal temps both ECT and IAT. MPG - Should change IAT to 143*F 6 CYL - Should change IAT to 26*F and ECT to 123*F 3 CYL - Should only change IAT to 13*F ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature IAT - Intake Air Temperature
  16. Best is to have the ABS module reflashed with the correct rev/per mile for your tire size. Dealer or Smarty is your choices.
  17. Odometer vs GPS will tell you if the how close you are to accuracy. As speedometer accuracy drifts so will the odometer. So if you correct one the other automatic will be corrected as well.
  18. I don't suggest using tire math because every brand is a bit different in tread depth and sizes so math doesn't work. Like I'm one size under 235 vs 265 but I'm 1.1 inches narrower and 0.04 inches TALLER. Makes for my 0.5 MPH offset. Over all odometer difference for my little 0.5 MPH could be roughly 30 miles difference between GPS and actual odometer.
  19. Just like the truck that was stolen from just down the road from me. Slim Jim the door it only takes about 15 second to unlock the door. Then about another 30 second screw in a dent puller pop out the key tumbler. Using a large blade screwdriver start and drive the truck. I spent about 3 weeks repairing the damage on the truck that was stolen including the tore up column from the dent puller being used. So as for stealing a truck its really not hard nor is it to just break in. Yes I do own a Slim Jim and Yes I know how to use it. I've unlocked several Dodge Ram Trucks including my own in usually about 10-15 seconds with a stainless steel Slim Jim. Jiggle keys is another method and most can open lock in mere seconds and start a truck.
  20. The problem is if the thief just steals the entire truck he'll make out good period. Won't matter how good you secured your weapon its all gone. I've seen guys create custom rifle rack under the back seat. as for securing it and preventing it being stolen. Kiind of tough... If the steal the truck it won't matter. Even if you had a pistol lock box bolted to the floor. Once they steal the vehicle they will have all the time in the world to get what is inside the lock box.
  21. As long as the truck is used for highway travel I don't think you'll have much problems with the DPF / EGR. As for the suspension I would just go through it and replace any wore out parts and move on. Shocks don't last forever so you might be needing to replace those. I would inspect all fluids and change anything that is questionable. Don't forget coolant, brake fluid and power steering fluid these are a few of the most forgotten fluids.
  22. It's a Cummins its going to fight till its totally wore out!
  23. I'd rather to the side of safety than being willy nilly and be over weight. Quoting from IBMobile link... The only way I can see the rear tires wearing faster is the axle alignment is off. So it would be a matter of checking the axles for walking. Did you happen to break the centering pin in the springs? Possibly U bolt loose or rusted through? Kind of hard to see a rear axle moving unless there is some sort of damage. Front axle is a different story being there is all the different axles you can apply to front tires on 2WD. As for 4WD trucks it more the typically ball joints, tie rods and/or track bar.

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.