Mopar1973Man

Try counting the detents from fully counter clock wise and double check it. From the left to right there is only 4. OFF, MPG, 6 CYL and 3 CYL. If you got a live data tool like a ScanGauge II or similar. OFF - Should show normal temps both ECT and IAT. MPG - Should change IAT to 143*F 6 CYL - Should change IAT to 26*F and ECT to 123*F 3 CYL - Should only change IAT to 13*F ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature IAT - Intake Air Temperature

Best is to have the ABS module reflashed with the correct rev/per mile for your tire size. Dealer or Smarty is your choices.

Odometer vs GPS will tell you if the how close you are to accuracy. As speedometer accuracy drifts so will the odometer. So if you correct one the other automatic will be corrected as well.

I don't suggest using tire math because every brand is a bit different in tread depth and sizes so math doesn't work. Like I'm one size under 235 vs 265 but I'm 1.1 inches narrower and 0.04 inches TALLER. Makes for my 0.5 MPH offset. Over all odometer difference for my little 0.5 MPH could be roughly 30 miles difference between GPS and actual odometer.

Just like the truck that was stolen from just down the road from me. Slim Jim the door it only takes about 15 second to unlock the door. Then about another 30 second screw in a dent puller pop out the key tumbler. Using a large blade screwdriver start and drive the truck. I spent about 3 weeks repairing the damage on the truck that was stolen including the tore up column from the dent puller being used. So as for stealing a truck its really not hard nor is it to just break in. Yes I do own a Slim Jim and Yes I know how to use it. I've unlocked several Dodge Ram Trucks including my own in usually about 10-15 seconds with a stainless steel Slim Jim. Jiggle keys is another method and most can open lock in mere seconds and start a truck.

The problem is if the thief just steals the entire truck he'll make out good period. Won't matter how good you secured your weapon its all gone. I've seen guys create custom rifle rack under the back seat. as for securing it and preventing it being stolen. Kiind of tough... If the steal the truck it won't matter. Even if you had a pistol lock box bolted to the floor. Once they steal the vehicle they will have all the time in the world to get what is inside the lock box.

As long as the truck is used for highway travel I don't think you'll have much problems with the DPF / EGR. As for the suspension I would just go through it and replace any wore out parts and move on. Shocks don't last forever so you might be needing to replace those. I would inspect all fluids and change anything that is questionable. Don't forget coolant, brake fluid and power steering fluid these are a few of the most forgotten fluids.

It's a Cummins its going to fight till its totally wore out!

I'd rather to the side of safety than being willy nilly and be over weight. Quoting from IBMobile link... The only way I can see the rear tires wearing faster is the axle alignment is off. So it would be a matter of checking the axles for walking. Did you happen to break the centering pin in the springs? Possibly U bolt loose or rusted through? Kind of hard to see a rear axle moving unless there is some sort of damage. Front axle is a different story being there is all the different axles you can apply to front tires on 2WD. As for 4WD trucks it more the typically ball joints, tie rods and/or track bar.

All the typical red tape. Like my last few jobs I just brought in with me and put it away with my lunch cooler. Then placed my fire radio on the shop shelf. I'm glad I live where I do. It seems the laws get tighter and more restrictive the more you head east.

Like I tell most people. Carrying a weapon is like your seat belt. I know there is days we all just skip the seat belt for that short trip or what not. Now if you have accident you don't get the split second to put on your seat belt. So if you have confrontation without your weapon you not going to tell the attacker "Hey wait a second while I go to my tuck to get my rifle." not going to happen. The only way mine will get stolen is off my dead body. I just had this conversation on CF about a week ago where a gent wanted to bolt in a pistol box in the truck. Same principal. If you don't have it on you want good is it locked up in the truck? Like another CF member chimed in and mention that some courthouses and government offices will offer you a lock box for your weapon while on premise.

Found. twelve point cap screw, M10-1.50 x 35mm Cummins p/n 3903834, http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/thread-size-starter-bolts-299110/#post3061668

I know a lot of us exceed the number now and then. But I rather be aware of weights and what I'm hauling. Still in all the weight to tire formula should still hit close to the proper PSI numbers. Also you have to remember the 3500 series is with 6 tire vs. 4 tires on the 2500. Stability and safety is part of the GVWR number. I'm not foolish. That is all very dry spruce. Looks impressive but not even heavy enough to sit on the overload springs. Now this load of red fir was much heavier. You can clearly see its sitting down on the overloads. This one I crept off the hill really slow. I know I was pushing my luck. I always hated those loads that where just heavy enough to bang the overload springs on the stops. Listen to that weird clang noise all the way down a mountain.

Ok TFaoro. Lets see if you right... Take a tread depth gauge and measure from the shoulders and then from the center. Are all 3 numbers the same or is the center on just a wee-bit thinner? I'm going to bet the center is at least 1/32 thinner than the shoulders as a minimum. This is another way to judge your inflation pressure over inflated typically the center thin out quicker. Or you can do like Hammer suggested smooth pavement and stick of chalk and see if the shoulders wear off.

@BBHD Can you show me a link for those? I've got a local here that is looking for better headlights.

Look a this picture again TFaoro... I'm only 160 pound from GVWR. I have absolutely no need inflating to 80 PSI in the rear. I would be WAY over weight GVWR weights. Even loaded like this I have no need for above 60 PSI.

The math will get you right close to that same measurement too.

Best off scaling still. I've seen some vehicles under weight my own and seen other tipping the GAWR... Even at full GAWR of both axles using your tires. 5200 Front Axle GAWR = 43.7 PSI 6084 Rear Axle GAWR = 51.2 PSI Total GVWR: 11,284 pounds... Way over GVWR of 8,800 pounds...

Won't work. You'd be surprised how much difference there is from truck to truck. Like last fall scaling the RV. Then like my 96 I just rescaled again. 3340 / 2 = 1670 / 3042 = 0.54 x 80 = 43.9 PSI Front 2640 / 2 = 1320 / 3042 = 0.43 x 80 = 34.7 PSI Rear GVW = 5980 pounds.

@The_Hammer What was your axle weights? Front and rear.

Oh your playing with fire now... Nothing like a woman scorned...

Like most bad guys don't like messing with good guys with guns...

Absolutely. They keep poking at the idea of coming to get guns. I would have that Henry locked up in a safe out of sight. Personally I hope people stand up for their rights and never give up their weapons or theirs lives. I will say its time to make a stand for our rights and take back some of them from the Gov't.

I've heard of some long highway miles on Mitchelin's. The most I can get from a set of tires is about 30-40k miles. Too much offroad driving that tends to shorten the tire life. I'm running a China made Black Lion HT's to see if I can break out of that problem. I like the traction of the A/T's just doing like the short life span. H/T's seem to be holding up even better but require more 4WD use on dirt roads and ice.