Mopar1973Man

That's turbo bark almost 100% sure of it. On Edge Comp make sure to run the same sublevel on both 4 and 5 main levels. I want to see if you got the same programming bug I've got. MAIN LEVELS 40 HP 60 HP 80 HP 100 HP 120 HP SUBLEVEL 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost Some extra fuel at low boost Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost

Hell no... Been there done that.

Hex... It's snowing here as I type. Not quite enough to go play yet. Got about a inch on the ground. McCall Grade near the little ski hill.

I would love to have better lighting... Now between the cost of the light and the hacking... Is it worth it?

This is one of the reasons I never barrow any else's vehicles. There is too many unseen variables you won't know about. Like in your case tires? Where they inflated properly for the snow weather. Over-inflation will reduce traction. Tread type? Mud/Snow, studded or not? I've had friends bring there vehicles to me and I've seen 1 ton trucks that are undriveable on snow packed roads. I've seen 4WD trucks stuck on a flat parking lots with all 4 tires slipping. Something I do EVER winter is take my truck out to open parking lot, larger pull out, or field. Then I go play a little bit getting use to that feeling of slipping and sliding. The thing is to be comfortable with the feeling so you don't panic. Again lots of people pick on me about slow speeds and travel here is one place its REQUIRED. Because now if your comfortable with the feeling of slipping and sliding it gives you more time to resolve the sliding issues if your travelling slower. Strange but true sometimes you have to throttle a bit to gain traction again. This is tough to do with a corner coming or travelling down hill. Lot of times when you hit the brakes the tires get lubed from sliding and never gain traction again (more so on Automatic trans) where with a manual you can clutch in and the tires will match up and quit slipping.

Sorry I sit the snow camping out. My Jayco won't survive temps below 32*F because of exterior plumbing design issue. As for the 07 it's got a 5 level EFI live tuner.

So you would only have 33% throttle till 20 PSI boost. It feels like limp mode for power then at 20 PSI it starts pulling hard. A lot of people like Smarty's personally I don't suggest them with to be used in stack nor with stock automatics. All Smarty can do is modify the stock fuel map of the ECM once the vehicle exceeds the stock fuel map that where it turns flat. Most people love the fact Smarty reduces Torque Management the very thing you need to keep from breaking your transmission. Now like TFaoro he's done it right with stacking with a TST fuel only box and Smarty doing the timing but he's spent lots of money on his project truck. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/9995-teardown-and-rebuild/

Basic science a smaller/lighter objects can be spun faster without G force ripping it apart. Where larger/heavier objects the G force will take its toll far sooner.

Exactly what it says. Like sublevel 3 you only get a MAX throttle of 67% of stock fuel rate till 10 PSI then the Edge Comp kicks in and pours the coals to the engine. So you can customize your fuel map a bit with a Edge Comp or Edge Juice. But Edge EZ there is none. Like my normal setting is 5x3 which is 120 HP maximum fuel with 67% maximum throttle till 10 PSI and then pour the coal to it. This is all the adjustment you get on EZ. (60, 63 and 65 HP) Slide the jump on and that's it.

The only thing I changed was my clutch no my NV4500. Nothing else was changed on the truck.

The only thing I want to note here is pressure stability is the difference between demand volume and supply volume. So if you demand volume is lower than supply volume then pressure will be stable. Now if you demand volume is higher than supply volume then pressure will fall accordingly. Which is correct. So pressure falling out during WOT is a sign your demand volume is exceeding the supply volume. This is basic pump class knowledge from Fire Fighting College Course. Same principals apply.

Edge EZ is a 65HP box. Not really adjustable 60, 63 or 65 HP. It a fuel and timing box without defuel modes. Edge Comp is a 40-120 HP box with defuel modes to lighten the launching. So you could run 1x3 which is 40 HP max extra fuel and defuels 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI and then released. This is a feature the EZ doesn't have at all. If you leave the Edge Comp untapped its defaults to 40 HP level. So edge Comp is still safer for the transmission than the Edge EZ. MAIN 40 HP 60 HP 80 HP 100 HP 120 HP SUBLEVEL 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 67% of sotck fuel till 10 PSI of boost Some extra fuel at low boost Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost

Like my set up I try to keep my pressures down. I don't like the 20 PSI and above crowd (personally). Like idling I'm 17 PSI and WOT its 15 PSI. Cruising it dances around the 16 PSI mark. But I'm running the AirDog filter (Donaldson) and stock filter (Fleetguard). So I really doubt I'm outside the rating of the filters since stock normal pressure was 12-14 PSI and I'm at 15-16 PSI under load.

Some day you'll have to find out won't you? Actually I could out run that 05 no problem. Now the 07 I did the gutting out and programmer on. That I will admit I can't even begin to catch. Way too quick.

I could give you account on the article database and you can make it yourself. I need you yo PM me a password you want to use and I'll create the account for you.

Like on my 96 Dodge I managed to some how bend a yoke ear on the front drive shaft and just being a little out of center makes a huge amount of vibration.

I bet you didn't shoot any pictures of you doing this so you could make a article... (Hint, Hint, Hint!)

I've fixed one with a fender washer from a hardware store nothing more. I just bought a fender washer that was proper ID hole size and ground the washer down to a tear drop shape. Pulled the bolt out installed the washer and torqued the bolt down. Reassembled the gear case.

I'm not found of the Edge EZ for the reason the module is under the hood and its known to leak water into the module and rot the circuit board out creating all kinds of weird issues. At least with a Edge comp the module is in the cab. The Edge juice which is even more expensive has much better designed module case and doesn't leak. It's also mounted under the hood.

Silencer ring is missing. That is normal. I reinstalled my silencer ring to tone that down gets rather old after awhile towing heavy through the mountains. Silencer ring is missing. That is normal. I reinstalled my silencer ring to tone that down gets rather old after awhile towing heavy through the mountains.

My thoughts... If its under load and making noise. Boost leaks, torn/cut boot(s), manifold gasket leaking Drive pressure leaks, crcked exhaust manifold, blown exhaust gasket(s). Turbo bearing issues, compressor wheel making contact with housing

Like myself... I did my first brake job at 180k miles. My front ball joints and track bar were replaced at 185k miles. I'm still running OE tie rod ends and steering box. The front end wear is typically enhanced with leveling kits, lift kits and oversized tires. Then you'll see more and more wear issues in the front axle and steering.

If your jumping off the throttle and getting a whooshing noise that's called a "Turbo Bark". That when you got the turbo spun up tight and loaded with high boost then jump off the fuel and driven pressure fails. Now the compressed air is attempting to spin the compressor wheel backwards venting the pressure it just built. This can do damage to the turbo. So just ease out of the throttle just a bit before dropping it out right.

Mine got a big shouldered piece of case metal over the pin. 2001 was basically the end of KDP problem with mixed bag of having the pin or not. There is only one report of 2002 that I've seen with a KDP failure. I seen the dealer invoice for it too. Mine got a big shouldered piece of case metal over the pin. 2001 was basically the end of KDP problem with mixed bag of having the pin or not. There is only one report of 2002 that I've seen with a KDP failure. I seen the dealer invoice for it too.

HX35W turbo should hit a max of 35 PSI safely. Then a HY35W turbo should hit max of 32 PSI safely. Explain what its doing... Edge Comp will get about 30-32 PSI tops.